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OUR 


COACHING   TRIP 


BRIGHTON    TO    INVERNESS 


BY 

ANDREW    CARNEGIE. 


(PRIVATE     CIRCULATION.) 


NE\V    YORK. 
1882. 


'Ah,  that  such  beauty  cannot  be  portrayed 
By  words,  nor  by  the  pencil's  silent  skill. 
But  is  the  property  of  him  alone 
Who  hath  beheld  it,  noted  it  with  care, 
And  in  his  mind  recorded  it  with  love." 


C2\o 


TO     MY    BROTHER 

A.XD  TRUSTY  ASSOCIATES, 

IVIfO    TOILED  A  T  HOME  THA  T  I  MIGHT  REALIZE  THE  HAPPIEST 

DREAM  OF  MY  LIFE,   THIS  RECORD,  LIKE  ''ROUND    THE 

WORLDS    /.9   ALSO  AFFECTIONATELY 

INSCRIBED   BY   THE 

GRATEFUL    AUTHOR. 

New  Youk,  March  lo,  1882. 


733924 


OUR  COACHING  TRIP. 


Bang  !  click  !  once  more  the  desk  closes  and  the 
key  turns  !  Not  "  Round  the  World  "  again,  but 
"  Ho  for  England,  for  England  !"  is  the  cry,  and 
"  Scotland's  hills  and  Scotland's  dales  and  Scotland's 
vales  for  me. ' ' 

Long  enough  ago  to  permit  us  to  sing, 

"  For  we  are  boys,  merry,  merry  boys," 

and  the  world  lay  all  before  us  where  to  choose,  Dod, 
Vandy,  Harry,  and  I  walked  through  Southern  Eng- 
land with  knapsacks  on  our  backs'.  What  pranks  we 
played  !  Those  were  the  happy  days  when  we 
heard  the  chimes  at  midnight  and  laughed  Sir  Pru- 
dence out  of  countenance.  "  Dost  thou  think,  be- 
cause thou  art  virtuous,  there  shall  be  no  more  cakes 
and  ale  ?"  ,  Nay,  verily.  Sir  Gray  Beard,  and  ginger 
shall  be  hot  i'  the  mouth  too  !     Then  indeed 

"  The  sounding  cataract 
Haunted  me  like  a  passion  ;  the  tall  rock, 
The  mountain,  and  the  deep  and  gloomy  wood, 
Their  colors  and  their  forms,  were  then  to  me 
An  appetite  ;  a  feeling  and  a  love 
That  had  no  need  of  a  remoter  charm, 
By  thought  supplied,  or  any  interest 
Unborrowed  from  the  eve." 


2  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

It  was  during  this  pedestrian  excursion  that  I 
announced  that  some  day,  when  my  "  ships  came 
home,"  I  should  drive  a  party  of  my  dearest  friends 
from  Briofhton  to  Inverness.  Black's  "  Adventures 
of  a  Phaeton  "  came  not  long  after  this  to  prove  that 
another  Scot  had  divined  how  idyllic  the  journey 
could  be  made.  It  was  something  of  an  air-castle — 
of  a  dream — those  far-off  days,  but  see  how  it  has 
come  to  pass  ! 

The  world,  in  my  opinion,  is  all  wrong  on  the 
subject  of  air-castles.  People  are  forever  complain- 
ing that  their  chateaux  en  Espagne  are  never  real- 
ized. But  the  trouble  is  with  them — they  fail  to 
recognize  them  when  they  come.  "To-day,"  says 
Carlyle,  "  is  a  king  in  disguise,"  and  most  people  are 
in  possession  of  their  air-castles,  but  lack  the  trick  to 
see't. 

Look  around  you  !  see  Vandy,  for  instance. 
When  we  were  thus  doing  Merrie  England  on  foot, 
he  with  a  very  modest  letter  of  credit  stow^ed  away 
in  a  belt  round  his  sacred  person — for  Vandy  it  was 
who  always  carried  the  bag  (and  a  faithful  treasurer 
and  a  careful  one  too- — good  boy,  Vandy  !) ;  he  was 
a  pobr  student  then,  and  you  should  have  heard  him 
philosophize  and  lord  it  over  us  two,  who  had  been 
somewhat  fortunate  in  rolling  mills  and  were  devot- 
ed to  business.  "  Great  Cassar  !  boys,  if  I  ever  get 
fifteen  hundred  dollars  a  year  income  !"  (This  Avas 
the  fortune  I  was  vaguely  figured  up  to  be  worth 
under  ordinary  conditions.)  "  Great  Caesar  !  boys" 
— and  here  the  fist  would  come  down  on  the  hard 
deal  table,  spilling  a  few  drops  of  beer — "fifteen 
hundred  dollars  a  year  !    Catch  me  working  anj^  more 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  3 

like  a  slave,  as  -yoii  and  Harry  do  !"  Well,  well, 
Vandy's  air-castle  was  fifteen  hundred  dollars  a 
year,  yet  see  him  now  when  thousands  roll  in  upon 
him  every  month.  Hard  at  it  still — and  see  the  god- 
dess laughing  in  her  sleeve  at  the  good  joke  on 
Vandy.  He  has  his  air-castle,  but  doesn't  recognize 
the  structure. 

There  is  Miss  Fashion.  How  fascinating  she  was 
when  she  descanted  on  her  air-castle — then  a  pretty 
cottage  with  white  and  red  roses  clustering  beside 
the  door  and  twining  over  it  in  a  true-lovers'  knot, 
symbolizing  the  lover's  ideal  of  mutual  help  and  de- 
pendence— the  white  upon  the  red.  No  large  estab- 
lishment for  her,  nor  many  servants  !  One  horse  (I 
admit  it  was  always  to  be  a  big  one),  and  an  elegant 
little  vehicle  ;  plenty  of  garden  and  enough  of  pin- 
money.  On  this  point  there  was  never  to  be 
the  slightest  doubt,  so  that  she  could  really  get  the 
^est  riiagazines  and  one  new  book  every  month — any 
one  she  chose.  A  young  hard-working  husband, 
without  too  much  income,  so  that  she  might  experi- 
ence the  pleasure  of  planning  to  make  their  little  go 
far.  Behold  her  now  !  her  husband  a  millionaire,  a 
brown-stone  front,  half  a  dozen  horses,  a  country 
place,  and  a  box  at  the  opera  !  But,  bless  your  heart ! 
she  is  as  unconscious  of  the  arrival  of  her  castle  as 
she  is  that  years  creep  upon  her  apace. 

The  Goddess  Fortune,  my  friends,  rarely  fails  to 
give  to  mortals  all  they  pray  for  and  more,  but  how 
she  must  stand  amazed  at  the  blindness  of  her  idola- 
ters who  continue  to  offer  up  their  pra3'ers  at  her 
shrine  wholly  unconscious  that  their  first  requests 
have  been  granted.     It  takes  Fortune  a  little  time  to 


4  OUR   COACHING    TRIP. 

prepare  the  gifts  for  so  many  supplicants — the  toys 
each  one  specially  wants  ;  and  lo  and  behold  !  before 
they  can  be  delivered  (though  she  works  with  speed 
betimes)  the  unreasonable  mortals  have  lost  conceit  of 
their  prizes,  and  their  coming  is  a  mockery  ;  the)'" 
are  crying  for  something  else.  If  the  Fates  be  malig- 
nant, as  old  religions  teach,  how  they  must  enjoy 
the  folly  of  man  ! 

Imagine  a  good  spirit  taking  Fortune  to  task  for 
the  misery  and  dispontent  of  mortals,  as  she  gazes 
Avith  piteous  eyes  upon  our  disappointments,  our 
troubles,  and,  saddest  of  all,  our  regrets,  charging 
her  with  producing  such  unhappiness.  "  Why  have 
you  done  this?"  would  be  the  inquiry.  Listen  to 
the  sardonic  chuckle  of  the  Fate  :  "  Hush  !  I've  only 
given  them  what  the}^  asked  (chuckle — chuckle — 
chuckle)  !  Not  my  fault  !  See  that  unhappy 
wretch,  sleeplessly  and  feverishly  tossing  on  his 
pillow,  and  in  his  waking  hours  absorbing  all  his 
lofty  faculties  in  gambling  at  the  Stock  Exchange — 
wife,  children,  home,  music,  art,  culture,  all  forgot- 
ten. He  was  once  a  bright,  promising,  ingenuous 
youth.  He  was  born  among  trees  and  green  fields, 
spent  the  morn  of  life  in  the  country,  sensitive  and  re- 
sponsive to  all  nature's  whisperings  ;  lay  in  cool,  leafy 
shades,  wandered  in  forest  glades,  and  paddled  in 
the  '  complaining  brooks  w^hich  make  the  meadow 
green.'  Nay,  not ,  many  years  ago  he  returned  at 
intervals  to  these  scenes  and  found  their  charm  had 
still  power  over  him— felt  the  truth  of  the  poet's 
words,  that 

"  '  To  him  who  in  the  love  of  nature  holds 
-     Communion  with  her  visible  forms,  she  speaks 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  5 

A  various  language  ;  for  his  gayer  hours 
She  has  a  voice  of  gladness,  and  a  smile 
And  eloquence  of  beauty,  and  she  glides 
Into  his  darker  musings,  with  a  mild 
And  healing  sympathy,  that  steals  away 
Their  sharpness,  ere  he  is  aware.' 

"  He  asked  for  enough  to  live  honorably  upon 
among  his  fellows,"  continues  the  Fate,  "and  to  keep 
his  parents  comfortable  in  their  old  age — a  matter  of 
a  few  hundreds  a  year — and  I  gave  him  this  and 
thousands  more.  Ha,  ha,  ha  !  silence  !  Look  at 
him  ;  he  doesn't  see  the  joke.  You  may  try  to  tell  it 
to  him,  if  you  like.  He  has  no  time  to  listen,  nor 
ears  to  hear,  nor  eyes  to  see  ;  no,  nor  soul  to  under- 
stand your  language.  He's  '  short'  on  New  Jersey 
Central  or  '  long  '  on  Reading,  and,  bless  you  !  he 
must  strain  every  fibre  if  he  would  save  himself  from 
ruin. 

"  He  could  commune  with  you  in  your  youth, 
you  say  ;  he  Had  your  language  then.  No  doubt  ! 
no.  doubt  !  so  did  he  then  know  his  Latin  and  whisper 
his  prayers  at  his  mother's  knee.  The  Latin  has 
gone  ;  his  pra3nng  continues— nay  has  increased,  for 
his  fears  and  selfish  wants  have  multiplied  since  he 
was  an  innocent,  ignorant  child,  and  he  has  much 
more  to  ask  from  God  for  his  own  ends,  now  that 
he  is  a  wise  man  and  is  supposed  to  know  much 
(chuckle — chuckle — chuckle). 

"  There  is  another  mortal,"  we  hear  the  Fate  say- 
insf  to  the  Good  Fairy.  "  Look  at  her,  decked  out 
in  all  the  vagaries  of  changeable  Fashion  ;  note  her 
fixed-up  look,  her  conventional  air,  her  nervous, 
unmeaning,  simpering  smile- -the  same  to-day,  yes- 


6  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

terday,  and  forever— something  to  all  men,  much  to 
none.  See  her  at  home  in  her  chamber  !  Why 
mopes  she,  looking  so  haggard,  with  features  ex- 
pressionless and  inane  ?  What  worm  gnaws  at  her 
heart  and  makes  her  life  so  petty  ?  She  too  came  into 
the  world  a  bright  and  happy  thing,  and  grew  up  fond 
of  music  and  of  birds,  and  with  a  passion  for  flowers 
and  all  of  Nature's  sweets  ;  so  careful  too  of  mother 
and  of  father,  the  very  embodiment  of  love  to  all 
around  her.  You  should  have  seen  her  in  her  teens, 
a  glorious  ray  from  heaven — '  making  a  sunshine  in 
a  shady  place  ' — so  natural,  so  hearty,  with  a  carol- 
linir  lausfh  like  the  falling  of  waters.  In  her  most 
secret  prayers  she  asked  only  for  a  kind  lover  with  a 
fair  competence,  that  they  might  live  modestly,  with- 
out ostentation.  She  was  a  good  girl  and  I  gave  her 
her  wish  and  more, "  says  Fate.  "  Her  air-castle  was 
small,  but  I  sent  her  a  magnificent  one.  She  is 
courted,  flattered,  has  every  gift  in  my  power  to  be- 
stow ;  yet  she  pines  in  the  midst  of  them.  The  fruits 
of  her  rare  gardens  have  no  flavor  for  her — Dead 
Sea  fruits  indeed,  which  fall  to  ashes  on  her  lips. 
She  has  entered  for  the  race  of  Fashion,  and  her  soul 
is  absorbed  in  its  jealousies  and  disappointments. 
You  may  speak  to  her  as  of  old  ;  tell  her  there  is 
something  noble  in  that  domain  of  human  life  where 
duties  grow — something  not  only  beyond  but  differ- 
ent from  Fashion,  higher  than  dress  or  show.  She 
understands  you  not. 

"  Hand  her  a  bunch  of  violets.  Does  she  learn 
their  lesson  with  their  odor  (which  her  dog  scents  as 
well  as  she)  ?  Comes  there  to  her  the  inner  mean- 
ing, the  scent  of  the  new-mown  hay  that  speaks  of 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  7 

past  hours  of  purity,  of  the  fresh  breeze  that  fanned 
her  cheek  in  childhood's  halcyon  da3's,  the  love  of 
all  things  of  the  green  earth  and  the  sense  of  the 
ofoodness  of  God  which  his  flowers  ever  hold  within 
their  petals  for  those  who  know  their  language  ? 
'  They  will  decorate  me  to-night  for  the  ball  !'  That 
is  the  be-all  and  the  end-all  of  her  ladyship's  love  for 
flowers. 

"  Show  her  a  picture  with  more  of  heaven  than 
earth  in  it,  and  glimpses  of  the  light  that  never  shone 
on  sea  or  shore.  If  the  artist  be  in  fashion  she  will 
call  it  '  pretty  '  when  it  is  grand.  Give  her  music. 
Is  it  the  opera?  Oh,  yes,  she  will  attend.  It  is  the 
fashion.  But  place  within  her  reach  the  soul-mov- 
ing oratorio  (with  more  religion  in  it  than  in  twenty 
sermons)  or  the  suggestive  symphony.  No,  a  pre- 
vious engagement  prevents.  Why,  just  think  of  it 
— one  call  t  talk  there  !  Yet  this  woman  could  once 
play  with  feeling  and  sing  with  expression,  delight- 
ing her  young  companions.  Of  her  one  could  truly 
say, 

"  '  Oh  !  to  see  or  hear  her  singing  !  scarce  I  know  which  is  divinest  — 
For  her  looks  sing  too — she  modulates  her  gestures  on  the  tune  ; 
And  her  mouth  stirs  with  the  song,  like  song  ;  and  when  the  notes 

are  finest, 
'Tis  the  eyes  that  shoot  out  vocal  light,  and  seem  to  swell  them  on. ' 

And  now  she  has  fallen  to  this  !" 

"Has  she  children?"  inquires  thfe  Good  Spirit. 
"  Oh,"  says  Fate,  "  we  are  not  altogether  relentless. 
How  could  we  grive  such  a  woman  children  and  look 
you  in  the  face  ?  It  is  sometimes  thought  necessary 
even  to  go  as  far  as  this,  but  in  such  cases  we  com- 
mend the  poor  infants  to  the  special  care  of  the  great 


8  'OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

Father,  for  mother  they  have  none.  But  look  I 
there  is  a  man  now  who  did  so  pray  for  a  son  and 
heir  that  we  gave  him  one,  and  yonder  goes  the  re- 
sult. God  in  heaven  !  why  are  men  so  rash  in  their 
bhndness  as  to  pray  for  anything  !  Surely  '  Thy 
will  be  done  '  were  best," 

I  am  as  bad  as  Sterne  in  his  "  Sentimental  Jour- 
ney," and  will  never  get  on  at  this  rate.  I  started  to 
argue  that  the  Fates  were  too  kind  instead  of  not  kind 
enough  ;  at  least,  my  air-castles  have  ever  been  mere 
toys  compared  with  the  realities,  for  never  did  I 
dream,  in  my  wildest  days,  that  the  intended  drive 
through  Britain  would  assume  the  princely  propor- 
tions of  a  four-in-hand,  crowded  with  a  dozen  of  my 
dearest  friends.  A  modest  phaeton  or  wagonefte 
with  a  pair  of  horses  was  the  extent  of  my  dream, 
but  the  Fairy  sent  me  four,  you  see,  and  two  friends 
for  every  one  I  had  pleased  myself  with  imagining 
as  sure  to  take  the  journey  with  me. 

But  now  to  a  sober  beginning  of  the  story  of  the 
coach.  It  was  in  the  leafy  month  of  June — ^the  very 
first  day  thereof,  however — in  the  year  of  our  Lord 
1 88 1,  that  the  good  ship  Bothnia  (Cunard  Line,  of 
course),  Captain  McMicken  (a  true  Scot  and  bold 
British  sailor),  steamed  from  the  future  Metropolis 
of  the  World  for  the  shores  of  Merrie  England.  She 
had  many  passengers,  but  among  them  were  eleven 
who  outranked  all  others,  if  their  respective  opinions 
of  each  other  were  to  be  accepted  as  the  true  stand- 
ard of  judgment.  I  had  received  for  several  months 
before  the  sweetest  pleasure  imaginable  in  startling 
first  one  and  then  another  with  requests  to  report  at 
headquarters,  Windsor  Hotel,  New  York,  May  31st, 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  9 

prepared  to  embark.  It  was  on  St.  Valentine's  Day 
that  Miss  Jeannie  Johns  received  a  missive  which 
caused  her  young  heart  to  flutter.  What  a  pretty 
reply  came  !     Here  is  a  short  extract  : 

"  Three  months  to  dream  of  it  ;  three  months  to  live  in  it  ;  and 
my  whole  lifetime  afterward  to  think  it  over.  I  am  the  happiest  girl 
alive,  only  sometimes  I  can't  believe  it's  all  going  to  happen." 

To  Davenport,  Iowa,  went  another  invitation. 
In  due  time  came  a  return  missive  from  the. proud 
City  of  the  River  : 

"Will  I  go  to  Paradise  for  three  months  on  a  coach?  Agent  of 
Providence,  I  will  !" 

Isn't  it  glorious  to  make  one's  friends  so  happy  ? 


Harbor  of  New  York,  June  i,  iSSi.    ) 
On  board  Steamer  Bothnia.  \ 

Call  the  roll. 

Lady  Dowager  Mother,  Head  of  the  Clan  (no 
Salic  Law  in  our  family)  ;  Miss  Jeannie  Johns  (Prima 
Donna)  ;  Miss  Alice  French  (Stewardess)  ;  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  McCargo  (Dainty  Davie)  ;  Mr.  and  Mrs.  King 
(Paisley  Troubadours,  Aleck  good  for  fun  and  Aggie 
good  for  everything)  ;  Benjamin  F.  Vandevort 
(Benjie)  ;  Henry  Phipps,  Jr.  (II.  P.,  Our  Pard)  ;  G. 
F.  McCandless  (General  Manager) ;  ten  in  all,  mak- 
ing together  with  the  scribe  the  All-coaching  Eleven. 

Ting-a-ling-a-ling  !  The  tears  are  shed,  the  kisses 
ta'en.  The  helpless  hulk  breathes  the  breath  of  life. 
The  pulsations  of  its  mighty  heart  are  felt ;  the  last 


lo  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

rope  that  binds  us  to  land  cast  off,  and  now  see  the 
hundreds  of  handkerchiefs  waving  from  the  pier  fad- 
ing and  fading  away.  But  note  among  the  wavers 
one  slight  graceful  figure  :  Miss  Mary  Clark  of  our 
party,  present  in  spirit  if  bodily  absent  on  duty, 
much  to  the  regret  of  us  all.  The  wavings  from 
deck  to  shore  tell  our  friends 

"  how  slow  our  souls  sailed  on, 
How  fast  our  ship." 

The  Bothnia  turned  her  face  to  the  east,  and  out 
upon  old  ocean's  gray  and  melancholy  waste  sailed 
the  Gay  Charioteers.  As  we. steamed  down  the  bay 
three' steamers  crowded  with  the  most  enterprising 
of  Europe's  people  passed  us,  emigrants  coming  to 
find  in  the  bounteous  bosom  of  the  Great  Republic  the 
blessings  of  equality,  the  just  reward  of  honest  labor. 
Ah,  favored  land  !  the  best  of  the  Old  World  seek 
your  shores  to  swell  to  still  grander  proportions 
your  assured  greatness.  That  all  come  only  for  the 
material  benefits  you  confer,  I  do  not  believe. 
Crowning  these  material  considerations,  I  insist  that 
the  more  intelligent  of  these'people  feel  the  spirit  of 
true  manhood  stirring  within  them,  and  glory  in  the 
thought  that  th^y  are  to  become  part  of  a  powerful 
people,  of  a  government  founded  upon  the  born 
equality  of  man,  free  from  military  despotism  and 
class  distinctions.  There  is  a  trace  of  the  serf  in  the 
man  who  lives  contentedly  in  a  land  with  ranks 
above  him.  One  hundred  and  seventeen  thousand 
came  last  month,  and  the  cry  is  still  they  come  !  O 
ye  self-constituted  rulers  of  men  in  Europe,  know 
you   not  that  the  knell  of  dynasties  and  of  rank  is 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  H 

sounding  ?  Are  you  so  deaf  that  3'ou  do  not  hear 
the  thunders,  so  blind  that  you  do  not  see  the  light- 
nings which  now  and  then  give  warning  of  the  storm 
that  is  to  precede  the  reign  of  the  people  ? 

There  is  everything  in  the  way  one  takes  things. 
"  Whatever  is,  is  right,"  is  a  good  maxim  for  trav- 
ellers to  adopt,  but  the  Charioteers  improved  on 
that.  The  first  resolution  they  passed  was,  "  What- 
ever is,  is  lovely  ;  all  that  does  happen  and  all  that 
doesn't  shall  be  altogether  lovely."  We  shall  quar- 
rel with  nothing,  admire  everything  and  every- 
body. A  surly  beggar  shall  afford  us  sport,  if 
any  one  can  be  surly. under  our  smiles;  and  stale 
bread  and  poor  fare  shall  only  serve  to  remind  us 
that  we  have  banqueted  at  the  Windsor.  Even 
no  dinner  at  all  shall  pass  for  a  good  joke.  Rain 
shall  be  hailed  as  good  for  the  growing  corn  ;  a 
cold  day  pass  as  invigorating,  a  warm  one  welcomed 
as  suggestive  of  summer  at  home,  and  even  a  Scotch 
mist  serve  to  remind  us  of  the  mysterious  ways  of 
Providence,  In  this  mood  the  start  was  made. 
Could  any  one  suggest  a  better  for  our  pur- 
pose ? 

Now  comes  a  splendid  place  to  skip— the  ocean 
voyage.  Everybody  writes  that  up  upon  the  first 
trip,  and  every  family  knows  all  about  it  from  the 
long  descriptive  letters  of  the  absent  one  doing 
Europe. 

When  one  has  crossed  the  Atlantic  twenty  odd 
times  there  seems  just  about  as  much  sense  in  boring 
one's  readers  with  an  account  of  the  trip  as  if  the 
journey  were  by  rail  from  New  York  to  Chicago. 
We  had  a  fine,  smooth  run,  and  though  some  of  us 


12 


OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 


were  a  trifle  distrait,  most  of  us  were  supremely 
happy.  A  sea  voyage  compared  with  land  travel  is 
a  good  de'al  like  matrimony  compared  with  single 
blessedness,  I  take  it  :  either  decidedly  better  or  de- 
cidedly worse.  To  him  who  finds  himself  comfort- 
able at  sea,  the  ocean  is  the  grandest  of  treats.  He 
never  fails  to  feel  himself  a  boy  again  while  on  the 
waves.  There  is  an  exaltation  about  it.  "  He  walks 
the  monarch  of  the  peopled  deck,"  glories  in  the 
storm,  rises  with  and  revels  in  it.  Heroic  song 
comes  to  him.  The  ship  becomes  a  live  thing, 
and  if  the  monster  rears  and  plunges  it  is  akin 
to  bounding  on  his  thoroughbred  who  knows  its 
rider.  Many  men  feel  thus,  and  I  am  happily  of 
them,  but  the  ladies  who  are  at  their  best  at  sea 
are  few. 

The  travellers,  however,  bore  the  journey  well, 
though  one  or  two  proved  indifferent  sailors.  One 
morning  I  had  to  make  several  calls  upon  members 
below  and  administer  my  favorite  remedy  ;  but  pale 
and  dejected  as  the  patients  were,  not  one  failed  to 
smile  a  ghastly  smile,  and  repeat  after  a  fashion  the 
cabalistic  words—"  Altogether  lovely." 

In  no  branch  of  human  progress  has  greater  ad- 
vance been  made  within  the  past  twenty  years  than 
in  ocean  navigation  by  steam  ;  not  so  much  in  the 
matter  of  speed  as  in  cost  of  transport.  The  Persia, 
once  the  crack  ship  of  the  Cunard  Line,  required  an 
expenditure  of  thirty-five  dollars  as  against  her  suc- 
cessors' one  dollar.  The  Servia  will  carry  thirty-five 
tons  across  the  ocean  for  what  one  ton  cost  in  the  Per- 
sia. A  revolution  indeed  !  and  one  which  brings  the 
products  of  American  soil  close  to  the  British  shores. 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  13 

Quite  recently  flour  has  been  carried  from  Chicago 
to  Liverpool  for  about  eighty  cents  per  barrel. 
The  farmer  of  Illinois  is  as  near  the  principal  mar- 
kets of  Britain  as  the  farmer  in  England  who  grows 
his  crops  one  hundred  miles  from  his  market  and 
transports  by  rail. 

Some  of  the  good  people  of  Britain  who  are  inter- 
ested in  land  believe  that  the  competition  of  Amer- 
ica has  reached  its  height.  Deluded  souls,  it  has 
only  begun  ! 

One  cannot  be  a  day  at  sea  without  meeting  the 
American  who  regrets  that  the  Stars  and  Stripes 
has  been  commercially  driven  from  the  ocean. 
This  always  reminds  me  of  a  fable  of  the  lion  and  the 
turtle.  The  lion  was  proudly  walking  along  the 
shore,  the  real  king  of  his  domain,  the  land.  The  tur- 
tle mocked  him,  saying.  Oh,  that's  nothing,  any  one 
can  walk  on  land.  Let's  see  you  try  it  in  the 
water.  The  licjn  tried.  Result:  the  turtle  fed  upon 
him  for  many  days.  America  can  only  render  her- 
self ridiculous  by  entering  the  water.  That  is,  Eng- 
land's domain. 

"  Her  home  is  on  ihe  mountain  wave, 
Her  march  is  o'er  the  deep." 

Travellers  know  the  character  and  abilities  of  the 
men  in  charge  of  a  Cunard  ship,  but  have  they  ever 
considered  for  what  pittances  such  men  are  ootained  ? 
Captain,  1^3250 per  annum;  hrst officer,  §1000;  second, 
third,  and  fourth  c  fficers.  $600.  For  what  sum  think 
you  can  be  had  a  man  capaiile  of  controlling  the  pon- 
derous machinery  of  the  Servia  ?  C^hicf  engineer, 
$1250.  Vou  have  seen  the  hremen  at  woik  down 
2 


14  OUR-  COACHING    TRIP. 

below,  perhaps.  Do  you  know  any  work  so  hard  as 
this  ?  Price  $30  per  month.  The  first  cost  of  a  steel 
ship — and  it  is  scarcely  worth  while  in  these  days  to 
think  of  any  other  kind — is  about  one  half  on  the 
Clyde  what  it  is  on  the  Delaware.  Steel  can  be  made, 
and  is  made,  in  Britain  for  one  half  its  cost  here. 
Not  in  our  day  will  it  be  wise  for  America  to  leave 
the  land.  It  is  a  ver}^  fair  division,  as  matters 
stand — the  land  for  America,  the  sea  for  England. 


Friday,  June  10,  1881. 

Land  ahoy  !  There  it  was,  the  long  dark  low- 
lying  cloud  which  was  no  cloud,  but  the  outline  of 
one  of  the  most  unfortunate  of  lands — unhappy  Ire- 
land, cursed  by  the  well-meaning  attempt  of  Eng- 
land to  grow  Englishmen  there.  England's  expe- 
rience north  of  the  Tweed  should  have  taught  her 
better. 

We  reached  Liverpool  Saturday  morning.  How 
pleasant  it  is  to  step  on  shore  in  a  strange  land  and 
be  greeted  by  kind  friends  on  the  qua}^  !  Their  wel- 
come to  England  counted  for  so  much. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Pullman  had  been  fellow-passen- 
gers. A  special  car  was  waiting  to  take  them  to 
London,  but  they  decided  not  to  go,  and  Mr.  Pull- 
man very  kindly  placed  it  at  the  disposal  of  Mr. 
Jones  and  family  (who  were,  fortunately  for  us,  also 
fellow-passengers)  and  our  party,  so  that  we  began 
our  travelling  upon  the  other  side  under  unexpected- 
ly favorable  conditions. 

To  such  of  the  party  as  were  getting  their  first 
glimpse  of  the  beautiful  isle,  the  journey  to  London 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  15 

seemed  an  awakening  from  happy  dreams.  They 
had  dreamt  England  looked  thus  and  thus,  and  now 
their  dreams  had  come  true.  The  scenery  of  the 
Midland  route  is  very  fine,  much  more  attractive 
than  that  of  the  other  line. 

The  party  spent  from  Saturday  until  Thursday 
at  the  Westminster  Hotel,  in  monster  London,  every 
one  being  free  to  do  what  most  interested  him  or 
her.  Groups  of  three  or  four  were  formed  for  this 
purpose  by  the  law  of  natural  selection,  but  the  roll 
was  called  for  breakfasts  and  dinners,  so  that  we  all 
met  daily  and  were  fully  advised  of  each  other's 
movements. 

The  House  of  Commons  claimed  the  first  place 
with  our  party,  all  being  anxious  to  see  the  Mother 
of  Parliaments.  It  is  not  so  easy  a  matter  to  do  this 
as  to  see  our  Congress  in  session  ;  but  thanks  to  our 
friend  Mr.  Robert  Clark  and  to  others,  we  were  for- 
tunate in  being  able  to  do  so  frequently.  Our  ladies 
had  the  pleasure  of  being  taken  into  the  Ladies'  Gal- 
lery by  one  of  the  rising  statesmen  of  England,  Sir 
Charles  Dilke,  a  Cabinet  Minister,  and  one  who  has 
had  the  boldness,  and  as  I  think  the  rare  sagacity,  to 
say  that  he  prefers  the  republican  to  the  monarchical 
system  of  government.  The  world  is  to  hear  of  Sir 
Charles  Dilke  if  he  live  and  health  be  granted  him. 

We  really  heard  John  Bright  speak — the  one  of 
all  men  living  whom  our  party  wished  most  to  see 
and  to  hear.  I  had  not  forgotten  hearing  him  speak 
in  Dunfermline,  when  I  was  seven  years  of  age, 
and  well  do  I  remember  that  when  I  got  home  I  told 
mother  he  made  one  mistake  ;  for  when  speaking  of 
Mr.  Smith  (the  Liberal  candidate),  he  called-  him  a 


1 6  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

men.,  instead  of  a  maan.  When  introduced  to  Mr. 
Bright  I  was  delighted  to  find  that  he  had  not  for- 
gotten Dunfermline,  nor  Erskine  Beveridge,  nor 
Uncle  Morrison. 

A  grand  character,  that  of  the  sturdy  Quaker  ; 
once  the  best  hated  man  in  Britain,  but  one  to  whom 
both  continents  are  now  glad  to  confess  their  grati- 
tude. He  has  been  wiser  than  his  generation,  but 
has  hved  to  see  it  grow  up  to  him.  Certainly  no 
American  can  look  down  from  the  gallery  upon  that 
white  head  without  beseeching  heaven  to  shower  its 
choicest  blessings  upon  it.  He  spoke  calmly  upon 
the  Permissive  Liquor  Bill,  and  gave  the  ministerial 
statement  in  regard  to  it."  All  he  said  was  good 
common  sense  ;  we  could  do  something  by  regulat- 
ing the  traffic  and  confining  it  to  reasonable  hours, 
but  after  all  the  great  cure  must  come  from  the 
better  education  of  the  masses,  who  must  be  brought 
to  feel  that  it  is  unworthy  of  their  manhood  to  bru- 
talize themselves  with  liquor.  England  has  set  her- 
self at  last  to  the  most  important  of  all  work — the 
thorough  education  of  her  people  ;  and  we  may 
confidently  expect  to  see  a  great  improvement  in 
their  habits  in  the  next  generation.  My  plan 
for  mastering  the  monster  evil  of  intempeiance  is 
that  our  temperance  societies,  instead  of  pledging 
men  never  to  taste  alcoholic  beverages,  should  be 
really  temperance  agencies  and  require  their  mem- 
bers to  use  them  only  at  meals— never  to  drink  wines 
or  spirits  without  eating.  The  man  who  takes  a 
wlass  of  wine,  or  beer,  or  spirits  at  dinner  is  clearly 
none  the  worse  for  it.  I  judge  that  if  the  medical 
fraternity  were  polled,  a  large  majority  would  say 


BRIGHTON   TO  INVERNESS.  17 

he  was  the  better  for  it.  Why  can't  we  recognize 
the  fact  that  all  races  indulge  in  stimulants  and  will 
continue  to  do  so?  It  is  the  regulation,  not  the  erad- 
ication, of  this  appetite  that  is  practical.  The  com- 
ing man  is  to  consider  it  low  to  walk  iip  to  a  bar  and 
gulp  down  liquor.  The  race  will  come  to  this  plat- 
form generations  before  they  will  accept  that  of  Sir 
Wilfred  Lawson  and  his  total  abstinence  ideas. 

Mr.  Conway's  article  in  Harper  s  upon  Bedford 
Square,  which  gave  glowing  accounts  of  this  Arca- 
dian colony,  with  its  aesthetic  homes,  its  Tabard  Inn, 
and  its  club,  gave  us  all  a  great  desire  to  visit  it. 
We  did  so  one  afternoon,  and  received  a  very  cordial 
welcome  from  Mrs.  Conway  in  the  absence  of  her 
husband.  She  kindly  showed  us  the  grounds  and 
explained  all  to  us.  Truth  compels  me  to  say  we 
were  sadly  disappointed,  but  for  this  we  had  prob- 
ably only  ourselves  to  blame.  It  is.  so  natural  to 
imagine  that  exquisite  wood-cuts  and  pretty  illus- 
trations set  forth  grander  things  than  they  do.  The 
houses  were  much  inferior  to  our  preconceived 
ideas,  and  many  had  soft  woods  painted,  and  most 
of  the  cheap  shams  of  ordinary  structures.  The  ab- 
sence of  grand  trees,  shady  dells,  and  ornamental 
grounds,  and  the  exceedingly  cheap  and  cheap-look- 
ing houses  made  all  seem  like  a  new  settlement  in 
the  Far  West  rather  than  the  latest  development  of 
culture. 

From  this  criticism  Mr.  Conway's  own  pretty 
little  home  is  wholly  exempt,  and  no  doubt  there  are 
many  other  homes  there  equally  admirable.  I  speak 
only  of  the  general  impression  made  upon  our  party, 
who  were  all    decidedly  of   opinion    that   the  most 


1 8  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

charming     object    there    was    Mrs.     Conway    her- 
self. 

Extremes  meet.  It  was  from  houses  such  as  I 
have  spoken  of  that  we  went  direct  to  Stafford 
House,  to  mjpet  the  Marquis  of  Stafford  by  appoint- 
ment, and  to  be  shown  over  that  palace  by  him. 
What  a  change  !  If  the  former  were  not  up  to  our 
expectations,  this  exceeded  them.  I  don't  suppose 
any  one  ever  has  expected  to  see  such  a  staircase  as 
enchants  him  upon  entering  Stafford  House.  This 
is  the  most  magnificent  residence  any  of  us  has  ever 
seen.  I  will  not  trust  myself  to  speak  of  its  beau- 
ties, nor  of  the  treasures  it  contains.  One  begins  to 
understand  to  what  the  Marquis  of  Stafford  is  born. 
The  Sutherland  family  has  a  million  two  hundred 
thousand  acres  of  land  in  Britain  ;  no  other  family 
in  the  world  compares  with  it  as  a  landowner.  It  is 
positively  startling  to  think  of  it.  Almost  the  entire 
County  of  Sutherland  is  theirs.  Stafford  House  is 
their  London  residence.  They  have  Trentham  Hall 
and  Lillieshall  in  Mid  England,  and  glorious  Dun- 
robin  Castle  in  Scotland. 

The  Marquis  sits  in  the  House  of  Commons  as 
member  for  Sutherland  County,  and  what  do  you 
think  !  he  is  a  painstaking  director  of  the  London  and 
North-Western  Railway,  and  I  am  informed  pays 
strict  attention  to  its  affairs.  The  Duke  of  Devon- 
shire is  Chairman  of  the  Barrow  Steel  Company. 
Lord  Granville  has  iron  works,  and  Earl  Dudley  is 
one  of  the  principal  iron  manufacturers  of  England. 
It  is  all  right,  you  see,  my  friends,  to  be  a  steel-rail 
manufacturer  or  an  iron-master.  How  fortunate  ! 
But  the  line  must  be  drawn  somewhere,  and  we  draw 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVEKXESS.  19 

it  at  trade.  The  A.  T.  Stewarts  and  the  Morrisons 
have  no  standing  in  society  in  England.  Thej^  are 
in  vulgar  trade.  Now  if  they  brewed  beer,  for  in- 
stance, they  would  be  somebodies. 

We  heard  a  performance  of  the  "Messiah"  in 
Albert  Hall,  which  Miss  Johns  agreed  with  me  was 
better  in  two  important  particulars  than  any  similar 
performance  we  had  heard  in  America.  First  in 
vigor  of  attack  by  the  chorus  ;  this  was  superb, 
from  the  first  instant  the  full  volume  and  quality  of 
sound  were  perfect.  The  other  point  was  that  all- 
important  one  of  pronunciation.  We  have  no  chorus 
in  New  York  which  rivals  what  we  heard.  The 
words  were  of  course  familiar,  and  we  could  scarcely 
judge  whether  we  were  correct  in  our  impression, 
but  we  believed  tha.t  even  had  they  been  strange  to 
us  we  could  nevertheless  have  understood  every 
word.  Since  my  return  to  New  York  I  have  heard 
this  oratorio  given  by  the  "Oratorio  Society,  and  am 
delighted  to  note  that  Dr.  Damrosch  has  greatly 
improved  his  chorus  in  this  respect,  but  the  English 
do  pronounce  perfectly  in  singing.  This  opinion 
was  confirmed  b}'  the  music  subsequently  h.eard  in 
various  places  throughout  our  travels.  In  public  as 
well  as  in  private  .singing  the  purity  of  pronunciation 
struck  us  as  remarkable.  If  I  ever  set  up  for  a  music 
teacher  I  shall  bequeath  to  my  favorite  pupil  as  the 
secret  of  success  but  one  word,  "pronunciation." 

Some  of  us  went  almost  every  day  to  Westmin- 
ster, but  dancing  attendance  upon  Parliament  is  much 
like  doing  so  upon  Congress.  The  interesting  de- 
bates are  few  and  far  between.  The  daily  routine 
is  uninteresting,  and  one  sees  how  rapidly  all  houses 


20  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

of  legislation  are  losing-  their  hold  upon  public  atten- 
tion. A  debate  upon  the  propriety  of  allowing 
Manchester  to  dispose  of  her  sewage  to  please  her- 
self, or  of  permitting  Dunfermline  to  bring  in  a 
supply  of  water,  seems  such  a  waste  of  time.  The 
Imperial  Parliament  of  Great  Britain  seems  much  in 
want  of  something  to  do  when  it  condescends  to 
occupy  its  tim.e  with  trifling  questions  which  the 
community  interested  can  best  settle  ;  but  even  in 
matters  of  national  importance  debates  are  no  longer 
what  they  were.  The  questions  have  already  been 
threshed  out  in  the  Reviews — those  coming  forums 
of  discussion — and  all  that  can  be  said  already  said 
by  writers  upon  both  sides  of  the  question  who  know 
its  bearings  much  better  than  the  leaders  of  party. 
When  the  Fortnightly  or  the  Nineteenth  Century  gets 
through  with  a  subject,  the  Prime  Minister  only  rises 
to  sum  up  the  result  at  which  the  Morleys  and 
Rogerses  and  Huxleys  have  previously  arrived. 

The  English  are  prone  to  contrast  the  men  of 
America  and  England  who  are  in  political  life,  and 
the  balance  is  no  doubt  greatly  in  their  favor.  But 
the  reason  lies  upon  the  surface  :  America  has 
solved  the  fundamental  questions  of  government,  and 
no  changes  are  desired  of  sufficient  moment  to  en- 
gage the  minds  of  her  ablest  men.  During  the  civil 
war,  when  new  issues  arose  and  had  to  be  met,  the 
men  who  stepped  forward  to  guide  the  nation  were  of 
an  entirely  different  class  from  those  prominent  in 
politics  either  before  or  since.  Contrast  the  men  of 
Buchanan's  administration  with  those  the  war  called 
to  the  front — Lincoln,  Seward,  Stanton,  Sumner, 
Edmunds,    Morton,    or   the   generals    with    Grant, 


BRIGHTON   TO  INVERNESS.  21 

Sherman,  Sheridan,  Hancock.  All  of  these  men  I 
have  known  well,  except  one  or  two  of  the  least  prom- 
inent. I  have  met  some  of  the  best  known  politi- 
cians in  England.  Compared  morally  or  intellect- 
ually, I  do  not  think  there  is  much,  if  any,  difference 
between  them  ;  while  for  original  creative  power  I 
believe  the  Americans  superior.  That  a  band  of  men 
so  remarkable  as  to  cause  surprise  to  other  nations 
will  promptly  aiise  whenever  there  is  real  work  to 
do,  no  one  who  knows  the  American  people  can 
doubt  ;  but  no  man  of  real  ability  is  going  to  spend 
his  energies  endeavoring  to  control  appointments  to 
the  New  York  Custom  House,  any  more  than  he 
will  continue  very  long  to  waste  his  time  discussing 
Manchester  sewage.  Much  as  my  EngHsh  friends 
dislike  to  believe  it,  I  tell  them  that  when  there  is 
really  no  great  work  to  be  done,  when  the  conflict 
between  feudal  and  democratic  ideas  ends,  as  it  is 
fast  coming  to  an  end,  and  there  is  no  vestige  of 
privilege  left  from  throne  to  knighthood,  only  vain, 
weak  men  Avill  seek  election  to  Parliament,  and  such 
will  stand  ready  to  do  the  bidding  of  the  constituen- 
cies as  our  agents  in  Congress  do.  But  this  need 
not  alarm  our  English  friends  ;  there  will  then  be 
much  less  bribery  before  election  and  much  less  suc- 
cumbing to  social  court  influences  after  it.  The 
brains  of  a  country  will  be  found  where  the  real 
Avork  is  to  do.  The  House  of  Lords  registers 
the  decrees  of  the  House  of  Commons.  The  House 
of  Commons  is  soon  to  register  the  decrees  of  the 
monthlies.  Both  these  things  may  be  pronounced 
good.  In  the  next  generation  the  debates  of  Par- 
liament will  affect  the  political  currents  of  the  age 


2  2  OUR   COACHING    TRIP. 

as  little  as  the  fulminations  of  the  pulpit  affect  re- 
ligious thought  at  present  ;  and  then  a  man  who 
feels  he  has  real  power  within  him  will  think  of 
enterinof  Parliament  about  as  soon  as  he  would  think 
of  entering  the  House  of  Lords  or  the  American 
Congress. 

"  The  parliament  of  man,  the  federation  of  the  world," 

comes  on  apace  ;  but  its  form  is  to  be  largely  im- 
personal. The  press  is  the  universal  parliament. 
The  leaders  in  that  forum  make  your  "statesman" 
dance  as  they  pipe. 

The  same  law  is  robbing  the  pulpit  of  real  power. 
Who  cares  what  the  Reverend  Mr.  Froth  preaches 
nowadays,  when  he  ventures  be^'ond  the  homilies? 
Three  pages  by  Professor  Robertson  Smith  in  the 
"  Encyclopsedia  Britannica  "  destroy  more  theology 
in  an  hour  than  all  the  preachers  in  the  land  can  build 
up  in  a  lifetime.  If  any  man.  wants  bona  fide  substan- 
tial power  and  influence  in  this  world,  he  must  han- 
dle the  pen — that's  flat.  Truly,  it  is  a  nobler  weapon 
than  the  sword,  and  a  much  nobler  one  than  the 
tongue,  both  of  which  have  nearly  had  their  da}' . 

We  had  a  happ}^  luncheon  with  our  good  friends 
the  Clarks,  one  of  our  London  days,  and  some  of 
our  party  who  had  heard  that  there  was  not  a  great 
variety  of  edibles  in  England  saw  reason  to  revise 
their  ideas.  Another  day  we  had  a  notable  proces- 
sion-for  miles  through  London  streets  and  suburbs 
to  the  residence  of  our  friend,  Mr.  Beck.  Five  han- 
soms in  line  driven  pell-mell  reminded  me  of  (^ir 
Tokio  experiences  with  Ginrikshaws,  two  Bettos 
tandem  in  each. 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  23 

It  was  a  pretty,  graceful  courtesy,  m}^  friend,  to 
display  from  the  upper  window  the  "  Stars  and 
Stripes,"  in  honor  of  the  arrival  of  your  American 
guests,  and  prettier  still  to  have  across  your  hall  as  a 
portiere,  under  which  all  must  bow  as  they  entered, 
that  flag  which  tells  of  a  government  founded  upon 
the  born  equality  of  man.  Thanks  !  Such  things 
touch  the  heart  as  well  as  the  patriotic  chord  which 
vibrates  in  the  breast  of  every  one  so  fortunate  as  to 
claim  that  glorious  standard  as  the  emblem  of  the 
land  he  fondlv  calls  his  own.  Colonel  Robert 
Ingersoll,  that  wonderful  orator,  says  that  when 
abroad,  after  a  long  interval,  he  saw  in  one  of  the 
seaports  the  Stars  and  Stripes  fluttering  in  the 
breeze,  "  he  felt  the  air  had  blossomed  into  joy." 
It  was  he  too  who  told  the  South  long  ago  that 
"  there  wasn't  air  enough  upon  the  American  con- 
tinent to  float  two  flags."     Right  there.  Colonel  ! 

Do  you  know  why  the  American  worships  his 
flag  with  an  intenser  passion  than  even  the  Briton 
does  ?  I  will  tell  you.  It  is  because  it  is  not  the 
flag  of  a  government  which  discriminates  between 
her  children,  decreeing  privilege  to  one  and  denying 
"it  to  another,  but  the  flag  of  the  people  which  gives 
the  same  rights  to  all.  The  British  flag  was  born 
too  soon  to  be  close  to  the  masses.  It  came  before 
their  time,  when  they  had  little  or  no  power.  They 
were  not  consulted  about  it.  Some  conclave  made  it 
as  a  Pope  is  made  and  handed  it  down  to  the  nation. 
But  the  American  flag  bears  in  every  fibre  the  war- 
rant, "  We  the  People  in  Congress  assembled."  It 
is  their  own  child,  and  how  supremely  it  is  beloved  ! 

It   is    a    significant  fact  that  in  no  riot  or  local 


24  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

outbreak  have  soldiers  ot  the  United  States,  bearing 
the  national  flag,  ever  been  assaulted.  Militia 
troops  have  sometimes  been  stoned,  but  United 
States  troops  never.  During  the  worst  riot  ever 
known  in  America,  that  in  our  own  good  city  of 
Pittsburgh,  Pennsylvania,  twenty-eight  United  States 
soldiers,  all  there  were  in  the  barracks,  marched 
through  the  thousands  of  excited  men  unmolested. 
I  really  believe  that  had  any  man  in  the  crowd  dared 
to  touch  that  flag.  General  Dix's  famous  order  would 
have  been  promptly  enforced  by  his  companions.  I 
recently  asked  Major-General  Hancock  whether  he 
had  ever  known  United  States  soldiers  to  be  attacked 
by  citizens,  and  he  said  he  never  had.  He  was  in 
command  of  the  troops  during  the  riots  in  the  coal 
regions  in  Pennsylvania  some  years  ago,  and  when- 
ever a  body  of  his  regulars  appeared  they  were  re- 
spected and  peace  reigned. 

General  Dix's  order  was,  "  If  any  man  touches 
the  Stars  and  Stripes  shoot  him  on  the  spot."  So 
say  we  all  of  us.  And  it  will  be  the  same  in  Britain 
some  day,  ay  and  in  Ireland  too,  when  an  end  has 
been  made  of  privilege  and  there  is  not  a  •govern- 
ment and  a  people,  but  only  a  government  of  the 
people,  for  the  people,  and  by  the  people.  That  day 
is  not  so  far  off  either  as  some  of  you  think,  mark  me. 

But  good-bye,  London,  and  all  the  thoughts 
which  crow^l  upon  one  when  in  your  mighty  whirl. 
You  monster  London,  we  are  all  glad  to  escape 
you  !  But  ere  we  "  gang  awa'  "  shall  we  not  note 
our  visit  to  one  we  are  proud  to  call  our  friend,  and 
of  whom  Scotland  is  proud.  Dr.  Samuel  Smiles,  a 
writer  of  books  indeed — books  which  influence  his 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  25 

own  generation  much,  and  the  younger  generation 
more.     Burns's  wish  was  that  he 

"  For  poor  auld  Scotland's  sake 
Some  useful  plan  or  book  could  make. 
Or  sing  a  sang  at  least." 

Well,  the  Doctor  has  made  several  books  that  are 
books,  and  I  have  heard  him  sing  a  song,  too,  for  the 
days  of  Auld  Lang  Syne.  May  he  live  long,  and 
long  may  his  devoted  wife  be  spared  to  watch  over 
him  ! 


Thursday  Morning,  June  16,  1881. 

We  are  oft  for  Brighton.  Mr.  and  Miss  Beck 
accompany  us.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  King  have  run  up  to 
Paisley  with  the  children  to  get  them  settled  with 
the  doting  grandparents,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Graham 
have  joined  us  in  their  place.  The  coach,  horses, 
and  servants  went  down  during  the  night. 

We  had  time  to  visit  the  unecpialled  aquarium  and 
to  do  the  parade  before  dinner.  Miss  French  and  I 
stole  off  to  make  a  much  more  interesting  visit  ;  we 
called  upon  William  Black,  whose  acquaintance  I 
had  been  fortunate  enough  to  make  in  Rome,  and 
whom  I  liad  told  that  I  should  some  day  imitate  his 
"Adventures  of  a  Phaeton."  A  week  before  we 
sailed  from  New  York  I  had  dined  with  President 
Garfield  at  Secretary  Blaine's  in  Washington.  After 
dinner,  conversation  turned  upon  my  proposed  jour- 
ne)%  and  the  President  became  much  interested.  "  It 
is  the  '  Adventures  of  a  Phaeton'  on  a  grand  scale," 
he  remarked.  "  By  the  way,  has  Black  ever  writ- 
ten any  other  story  quite  so  good  as  that  ?     1  do  not 


26  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

think  he  has."  In  this  there  was  a  general  concur- 
rence. He  then  said  :  "  But  I  am  provoked  with 
Black  just  now.  A  man  who  writes  to  entertain  has 
no  right  to  end  a  story  as  miserabl}^'  as  he  has  done 
that  of  '  MacLeod  of  Dare.'  Fiction  should  give  us 
the  bright  side  of  existence.  Real  life  has  tragedies 
enough  of  its  ozvn. 

A  few  weeks  more  and  we  were  to  have  in  his 
own  case  the  most  terrible  proof  of  the  words  he 
had  spoken  so  solemnly.  I  can  never  forget  the  sad, 
careworn  expression  of  his  face  as  he  uttered  them. 

"  But  come  it  soon  or  come  it  fast, 
It  is  but  death  that  comes  at  last." 

One  might  almost  be  willing  to  die  if,  as  in  Garfield's 
case,  there  should  flash  from  his  grave,  at  the  touch 
of  a  mutual  sorrow,  to  both  divisions  of  the  great 
English-speaking  race,  the  knowledge  that  they  are 
brothers.  This  discovery  will  bear  good  fruit  in 
time. 

"  Nothing  in  his  life  became  him  like  the  leaving  it." 

Garfield's  life  was  not  in  vain.  It  tells  its  own 
story — this  poor  boy  toiling  upward  to  the  proudest 
position  on  earth,  the  elected  of  fifty  millions  of 
freemen,  a  position  compared  with  which  that  of 
king  or  kaiser  is  as  nothing.  Let  other  nations  ask 
themselves  where  are  our  Lincolns  and  Garfields  } 
Ah,  they  grow  not  except  where  all  men  are  born 
equal  !  The  cold  shade  of  aristocracy  nips  them  in 
the  bud. 

jNIr.  Black  came  to  see  us  off,  but  arrived  at  our 
starting-place  a  few  minutes  too  late.  K  thousand 
pities  !     Had  we  only  known  that  he  intended  to  do 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  27 

US  this  honor,  until  high  noon,  ay,  and  till  dewy  eve, 
would  we  have  waited.  Just  think  of  our  start  be- 
ing- graced  by  the  author  of  "  The  Adventures  of  a 
Phaeton,"  and  we  privileged  to  give  him  three 
rousing  cheers  as  our  horn  sounded.  Though 
grieved  to  miss  him,  it  was  a  consolation  to  know 
that  he  had  come,  and  we  felt  that  his  spirit  was 
with  us  and  dwelt  with  us  during  the  entire  journey. 
Many  a  time  the  incidents  of  his  charming  story 
came  back  to  us,  but  I  am  sorry  to  record,  as  a  faith- 
ful chronicler,  that  we  young  people  missed  one  of 
its  most  absorbing  features — we  had  no  lovers.  At 
least,  I  am  not  apprised  that  any  engagements  were 
made  upon  the  journey,  although,  for  my  part,  I 
couldn't  help  falling  in  love  just  a  tiny  bit  with  the 
charming  young  ladies  who  delighted  us  with  their 
company. 

Brighton,  Friday  Morning,  June  17. 
Let  us  call  the  roll  once  more  at  the  door  of  the 
Grand  Hotel,  Brighton,  that  our  history-  may  be 
complete  :  Mr.  and  Miss  Beck,  London  ;  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Thomas  Graham,  Wolverhampton  ;  Cousin 
Maggie  Lauder,  Dunfermline  ;  dear  Emma  Franks, 
Liverpool  ;  Mr.  and  Mrs.  McCargo,  Miss  Jeannic 
Johns,  Miss  Alice  French,  Benjamin  F.  Vandevoil, 
Henry  Phipps,  Jr.,  G.  F.  McCandless,  Mother  and 
the  Scribe.  These  be  the  names  of  the  new  and  de- 
lectable order  of  the  Gay  Charioteers,  who  mounted 
their  coach  at  Brighton  and  began  the  long  journey 
to  the  North  Countrie  on  the  day  and  date  afore- 
said. And  here,  O  my  good  friends,  let  me  say  that 
until  a  man  has  stood  at  the  door  and  unexpectedly 


28  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

seen  his  own  four-in-hand  drive  up  before  him,  the 
horses— four  noble  bays — champing  the  bits,  their 
harness  buckles  glistening  in  the  sun  ;  the  coach 
spick  and  span  new  and  as  glossy  as  a  mirror,  with 
the  coachman  on  the  box  hnd  the  footman  behind  ; 
and  then,  enchanted,  has  called  to  his  friends, 
"  Come,  look,  there  it  is,  just  as  I  had  pictured  it  !" 
and  has  then  sfeen  them  mount  to  their  places  with 
beaming  faces — until,  I  say,  he  has  had  that  experi- 
ence, don't  tell  me  that  he  has  known  the  most  exqui- 
site sensation  in  life,  for  I  know  he  hasn't.  It  was  Izaak 
I  Walton,  I  believe,  who  when  asked  what  he  consid- 
ered the  most  thrilling  sensation  in  life,  answered 
that  he  supposed  it  was  the  tug  of  a  thirty-pound 
salmon.  Well,  that  was  not  a  bad  guess.  I  have 
taken  the  largest  trout  of  the  season  on  bonnie  Loch 
Leven,  have  been  drawn  over  Spirit  Lake  in  Iowa 
in  my  skiff  for  half  an  hour  by  a  monster  pickerel, 
and  have  played^  with  the  speckled  beauties  in  Dead 
River.  It  is  glorious  ;  making  a  hundred  thousand 
is  nothing  to  it  ;  but  there's  a  thrill  beyond  that,  my 
dear  old  quaint  Izaak.  I  remember  in  one  of  my 
sweet  strolls  "  ayont  the  wood  mill  braes"  with  a 
great  man,  my  Uncle  Bailie  Morrison — and  I  treas- 
ure the  memory  of  these  strolls  as  among  the  chief 
of  my  inheritance — this  very  question  came  up.  I 
asked  him  what  he  thought  the  most  thrilling  thing 
in  life.  He  mused  awhile,  as  was  the  Bailie's  wont, 
and  I  said,  "  I  think  I  can  tell  you.  Uncle."  "  What  is 
it  then,  Andrea  ?"  (Not  Andrew  for  the  world,  mother 
and  the  Bailie  have  the  other.)  "  Well,  Uncle,  I  think 
that  when,  in  making  a  speech,  one  feels  himself  lifted, 
as  it  were,  by  some  divine  power  into  regions  be- 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  29 

3'ond  himself,  in  which  he  seems  to  soar  without 
effort,  and  swept  by  enthusiasm  into  the  expressioa 
of  some  burning  truth,  which  has  laid  brooding-  in 
his  soul,  throwing  policy  and  prudence  to  the  winds, 
he  feels  words  whose  eloquence  surprises  himself, 
burning  hot,  hissing  through  him  like  molten  lava 
coursing  the  veins,  he  throws  it  forth,  and  panting 
for  breath  hears  the  quick,  sharp,  explosive  roar  of 
his  fellow-men  in  thunder  of  assent,  the  precious  mo- 
ment which  tells  him  that  the  audience  is  his  own, 
but  one  soul  in  it  and  that  his  ;  I  think  this  the 
supreme  moment  of  life."  "Go!  Andrea,  ye've 
hit  it  !"  cried  the  Bailie,  and  didn't  the  dark  eye 
sparkle  !  He  had  felt  this  often,  had  the  Bailie  ;  his 
nephew  had  only  now  and  then  been  near  enough  to 
imagine  the  rest. 

Mr.  Adam  Johnston  once  told  me  that,  though  he 
had  heard  the  most  noted  orators  of  Britain,  he 
never  yet  heard  any  one  whose  mastery  of  a  popular 
audience  was  as  complete  as  uncle's.  Great  praise 
this  from  such  a  source  ;  but  the  iiead  of  our  fam- 
ily, Uncle  Tom,  was  even  more  than  a  natural  ora- 
tor ;  with  all  his  glowing  fire  he  was  characterized  by 
rare  sagacity  and  sound  common  sense.  And  lipw 
sterling  his  honesty  !  All  men  knew  where  Tammy 
Morrison  was  to  be  found.  A  grand  Radical,  like 
his  father  before  him,  and  this  nephew  after  him, 
who  will  try,  politically  speaking  at  least,  never  to 
disgrace  the  family. 

The  happiness  of  giving  happiness  is  far  sweeter 

than  the  pleasure  direct,  and  I  recall  no  moments  ol 

m}^    life    in    which     the    rarer    pleasure    seemed    to 

suffuse  my  whole  heart  as  when  I  stood  at   Brighton 

3 


30  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

and  saw  my  friends  take  their  places  that  memorable 
morning.  In  this  variable,  fantastic  climate  of 
Britain  the  weather  is  ever  a  source  of  solicitude. 
What  must  it  have  been  to  me,  when  a  good  start 
was  all  important  !  I  remember  I  awoke  early  that 
day  and  wondered  whether  it  was  sunny  or  rainy. 
If  a  clear  day  could  have  been  purchased,  it  would 
have  been  obtained  at  almost  any  outlay.  I  could 
easily  tell  our  fate  by  raising  the  window-blind,  but 
I  philosophicaUy  decided  that  it  was  best  to  lie  still 
and  take  what  heaven  might  choose  to  send  us.  I 
should  know  soon  enough.  If  rain  it  was,  I  could 
not  help  it  ;  if  fair,  it  was  all  right.  But  let  me  give 
one  suggestion  to  those  who  in  England  are  impious 
enough  to  ask  heaven  to  change  its  plans  :  don't  ask 
for  dry  weather  ;  always  resort  to  that  last  extrem- 
ity when  it  is  "  a  drizzle-drozzle  "  you  wish.  Your 
supplications  are  so  much  more  likely  to  be  an- 
swered, you  kn(^w. 

There  never  was  a  lovelier  morning  in  England 
than  that  which  greeted  me  when  I  pulled  up  the 
heavy  Venetian  blind  and  gazed  on  the  rippling  sea 
before  me,  with  its  hundreds  of  pretty  little  sails.  I 
re|>eated  to  myself  these  favorite  lines  as  I  stood 
entranced  : 

"  The  Bridegroom  Sea  is  toying  with  the  shore, 

His  wedded  bride  ;  and  in  the  fulness  of  his  marriage  joy 
He  decorates  her  tawny  brow  with  shells, 
Retires  a  space  to  see  how  fair  she  looks, 
Then  proud  runs  up  to  kiss  her." 

That  is  what  old  ocean  was  doing  that  happy 
morning.  I  saw  him  at  it,  and  I  felt  that  if  all  created 
beings  had  one  mouth  I  should  like  to  kiss  them  too. 


BRIGHTON   TO   lA'VERNESS.  31 

All  seated  !  Mother  next  the  coachman,  and  I  at 
her  side.  The  horn  sounds,  the  crowd  cheers,  and 
we  are  off.  A  mile  or  two  are  traversed  and  there 
is  a  unanimous  verdict  upon  one  point — this  suits 
us  !  Finer  than  we  had  dreamt  !  As  we  pass  the 
pretty  villas  embossed  in  flowers  and  vines  and  all 
that  makes  England  the  home  of  happy  homes,  there' 
comes  the  sound  of  increasing  exclamations.  How 
pretty  !  Oh,  how  beautiful  !  See,  see,  the  roses  ! 
oh  the  roses  !  Look  at  that  lawn  !  How  love'ly  ! 
Enchanting  !  entrancing  !  superb  !  exquisite  !  Oh, 
I  never  saw  anything  like  this  in  all  my  life  !  And 
then  the  hum  of  song — La-/rt:-LA-LA,  Ra-da-</(rr-DUM  ! 
Yes,  it  is  all  true,  all  we  dreamt  or  imagined  and  be- 
yond it.  And  so  on  we  go  through  Brighton  and 
up  the  hills  to  the  famous  Weald  of  Sussex. 

While  wc  make  our  first  stop  to  water  the  horses 
at  the  wayside  inn,  and  some  of  the  men  as  well,  for 
a  glass  of  beer  asserts  its  attractions,  let  me  introduce 
you  to  two  worthies  whose  names  will  occupy  im- 
portant places  in  our  narrative,  and  dwell  in  our 
memories  forever  ;  men  to  whom  wc  are  indebted  in 
a  large  measure  for  the  success  of  the  coaching  ex- 
periment. 

Ladies  and  gentlemen,  this  is  Perry,  Perry  our 
coachman  ;  and  what  he  doesn't  know  about  horses 
and  how  to  handle  them  you  needn't  overtask  your- 
selves trying  to  learn.  And  this  is  Joe — Joey,  m^- 
lad — footman  and  coach  manager.  A  good  head 
and  an  eloquent  tongue  has  Joe.  Yes,  and  a  kind 
heart.  There,  is  nothing  he  can  do  or  think  of  doing 
lor  any  of  us  — and  he  can  do  much — that  he  is  not 
ofl    and    doing   ere    we    ask    him.        "  Skid,    Joe  I" 


32  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

"  Right,  Perry  !"  these  talismanic  words  of  our  order 
we  heard  to-day  for  the  first  time.  It  will  be  many  a 
long  da)^  before  they  cease  to  recall  to  the  Charioteers 
some  of  the  happiest  recollections  of  life.  Even  as 
I  write  I  am  in  English  meadows  far  away  and  hear 
them  tingling  in  my  ears. 

It  was  soon  discovered  that  no  mode  of  travel 
could  be  compared  with  coaching.  By  all  other 
modes  the  views  are  obstructed  by  the  hedges  and 
walks  ;  upon  the  top  of  the  coach  the  eye  wanders 
far  and  wide, 

"  O'er  deep  waving  fields  and  pastures  green, 
With  gentle  slopes  and  groves  between." 

Everything  of  rural  England  is  seen,  and  how  exqui- 
sitely beautiful  it  all  is,  this  quiet,  peaceful,  orderly 
land  ! 

"  The  ground's  most  gentle  dimplement 

(As  if  God's  finger  touched,  but  did  not  press, 

In  making  England) — such  an  up  and  down 

Of  verdure  ;  nothing  too  much  up  and  down, 

A  ripple  of  land,  such  little  hills  the  sky 

Can  stoop  to  tenderly  and  the  wheat-fields  climb  ; 
■    Such  nooks  of  valleys  lined  with  orchises, 

Fed  full  of  noises  by  invisible  streams, 

I  thought  my  father's  land  was  worthy  too  of  being  Shakespeare's." 

I  think  this  extract  from  Mr.  Winter's  charming 
volume  expresses  the  feelings  one  has  amid  such 
scenes  better  than  anything  I  know  of : 

"  If  the  beauty  of  England  were  merely  super- 
ficial, it  would  produce  a  merely  superficial  effect.  It 
would  cause  a  passing  pleasure,  and  would  be  forgot- 
ten. It  certainly  would  not— as  now  in  fact  it  does — 
inspire  a  deep,  joyous,  serene  and  grateful  content- 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  33 

ment,  and  linger  in  the  mind,  a  gracious  and  benefi- 
cent remembrance.  The  conquering  and  lasting 
potency  of  it  resides  not  alone  in  loveliness  of  ex- 
pression, but  in  loveliness  of  character.  Having  first 
greatly  blessed  the  British  Islands  with  the  natural 
advantages  of  position,  climate,  soil,  and  products, 
nature  has  wrought  out  their  development  and 
adornment  as  a  necessary  consequence  of  the  spirit 
of  their  inhabitants.  The  picturesque  variety  and 
pastoral  repose  of  the  English  landscape  spring,  in 
a  considerable  measure,  from  the  imaginative  taste 
and  the  affectionate  gentleness  of  the  English  peo- 
ple. The  state  of  the  country,  like  its  social  consti- 
tution, flows  from  principles  within  (which  are  con- 
stantly suggested),  and  it  steadily  comforts  and 
nourishes  the  mind  with  a  sense  of  kindly  feeling, 
moral  rectitude,  solidity,  and  permanence.  Thus,  in 
the  peculiar  beauty  of  England  the  ideal  is  made  the 
actual,  is  expressed  in  things  more  than  in  words, 
and  in  things  by  which  words  are  transcended. 
Milton's  '  L' Allegro,'  fine  as  it.  is,  is  not  so  fine  as 
the  scenery — the  crystallized,  embodied  poetry — ^out 
of  which  it  arose.  All  the  delicious  rural  verse  that 
has  been  written  in  England  is  only  the  excess  and 
superflux  of  her  own  poetic  opulence  ;  it  has  rippled 
from  the  hearts  of  her  poets  just  as  the  fragrance 
floats  away  from  her  hawthorn  hedges.  At  every 
step  of  his  progress  the  pilgrim  through  English 
scenes  is  impressed  with  this  sovereign  excellence  of 
the  accomplished  fact,  as  contrasted  with  any  words 
that  can  be  said  in  its  celebration." 

The  roads  are  a  theme  of    continual  wonder  to 
those  who  have  not  before  seen  England.     To  say 


34  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

that  from  end  to  end  of  our  journey  they  equalled 
those  of  New  York  Central  Park  would  be  to  un- 
derstate the  fact.  Thev  are  equal  to  the  park  roads 
on  days  when  these  are  at  their  best,  and  are 
neither  dry  nor  dusty.  We  bowl  over  them  as  balls 
do  over  billiard-tables.  It  is  a  glide  rather  than  a 
roll,  with  no  sensation  of  jolting.  You  could  write 
or  read  on  the  coach  almost  as  well  as  at  home.  I 
mean  you  could  if  there  was  any  time  to  waste  do- 
ing either,  and  you  were  not  afraid  of  missing  some 
beautiful  picture  which  would  dwell  in  your  memor)'- 
for  years,  or  Aleck's  last  joke,  or  Jeannie's  sweet 
song,  Andrew  Martin's  never-to-be-forgotten  lilt,  or 
the  Lady  Dowager's  Scotch  ballad  pertaining  to 
the  district ;  or  what  might  be  even  still  more  likely, 
if  you  didn't  want  to  tell  a  story  yourself,  or  even 
join  in  the  roaring  chorus  as  we  roll  along,  for  truly 
the  exhilarating  effect  of  the  triumphant  progress  is 
such  as  to  embolden  one  to  do  anything.  I  always 
liked  Artemus  Ward,  perhaps  because  I  found  a  point 
of  similarity  between  him  and  myself.  It  was  not  he 
but  his  friend  who  "  was  saddest  when  he  sang,"  as 
the  old  song  has  it.  I  noticed  that  my  friends  were 
strangely  touched  when  I  burst  into  song.  I  do 
not  recall  an  instance  when  I  was  encored  ;  but  the 
apparent  slight  arose  probably  from  a  suspicion  that 
if  recalled  I  would  have  essayed  the  same  song. 
This  is  unjust  !  I  have  another  in  reserve  for  such 
an  occasion,  if  it  ever  happen.  The  words  are  differ- 
ent, although  the  tune  may  be  somewhat  similar. 
When  I  like  a  tune  I  stick  to  it,  more  or  less,  and 
when  there  are  fine  touches  in  several  tunes  I  have 
been   credited   with   an  eclectic  disposition.      How- 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  35 

ever  this  may  be,  there  was  never  time  upon  our 
coach  for  anything  which  called  our  eyes  and  our 
attention  from  the  rapid  succession  of  pretty  cot- 
tages, fine  flowers,  the  birds  and  lowing  herds,  the 
grand  lights  and  grander  shadows  of  that  uncertain 
fleecy  sky,  the  luxuriance  of  the  verdure,  flowery 
dells  and  dewy  meads,  and  the  hundred  surprising 
beauties  that  make  England  England. 

These  bind  us  captive  and  drive  from  the  mind 
every  thought  of  anything  but  the  full  and  intense 
enjoyment  of  the  present  hour  ;  and  this  comes 
without  thought.  Forgetful  of  the  past,  regardless 
of  the  future,  from  morn  till  night,  it  is  one  uninter- 
rupted season  of  pure  and  unallo3^ed  joyousness. 
Never  were  the  w^ords  of  the  old  Scotch  song  as 
timely  as  now  : 

"  The  present  moment  is  our  ain, 
The  neist  we  never  see." 

Having  got  the  party  fairly  started,  let  me  tell 
you  something  of  our  general  arrangements  for  the 
campaign.  The  coach,  horses,  and  servants  are  en- 
gaged at  a  stipulated  sum  per  week,  which  includes 
their  travelling  expenses.  We  have  nothing  to  do 
with  their  bills  or  arrangements,  neither  are  we  in 
any  wise  responsible  for  accidents  to  the  property. 
.Every  one  is  allowed  a  small  hand-bag  and  a  strap 
package  ;  the  former  contains  necessary  articles  for 
daily  use,  the  latter  waterproofs,  shawls,  shoes,  etc. 
The  Gay  Charioteers  march  with  supplies  for  one 
week.  The  trunks  are  forwarded  every  week  to  the 
point  where  we  arc  to  spend  the  succeeding  Sunda)', 
so  that  every   Saturday  evening   we   replenish  our 


36  OCT  J?   COACHING    TRIP. 

wardrobe,  and  at  the  Sunday  evening  dinner  our 
ladies  appear  in  grand  toilette.  In  no  case  did  any 
failure  of  this  plan  occur,  nor  were  we  ever  put  to 
the  slightest  inconvenience  about  clothing.  Our 
hotel  accommodations  were  secured  by  telegraph. 
Mr.  Graham,  previous  to  our  start,  had  engaged 
these  for  our  first  week's  stage. 

The  question  of  luncheon  soon  came  to  the  front, 
for  should  we  be  favored  with  fine  weather,  much  of 
the  poetry  and  romance  of  the  journey, was  sure  to 
cluster  round  the  midday  halt.  It  was  by  a  pro- 
cess of  natural  selection  that  she  who  had  proved 
her  genius  for  making  salads  on  many  occasions 
during  the  voyage  should  be  unanimously  appointed 
to  fill  the  important  position  of  stewardess,  and 
given  full  and  unlimited  control  of  the  hampers. 
Miss  French  lived  up  to  a  well-deserved  reputation 
by  surprising  us  day  after  day  with  luncheons  far 
excelling  any  dinner.  Two  coaching  hampers,  very 
complete  affairs,  were  obtained  in  London,  These 
the  stewardess  saw  filled  at  the  inn  every  morning 
with  the  best  the  country  could  afford,  giving  this 
her  personal  supervision,  a  labor  of  love.  Harry's 
sweet  tooth  led  him  to  man}^  early  excursions  before 
breakfast  in  quest  of  sweets  and  flowers  for  us.  Aleck 
was  butler,  and  upon  him  we  placed  implicit  reliance, 
and  with  excellent  reason  too,  for  the  essential 
corkscrew  and  the  use  thereof — which  may  be  rated 
as  of  prime  necessity  upon  such  a  tour — and  Aleck 
never  failed  us  as  superintendent  of  the  bottles. 

It  was  in  obedience  to  the  strictest  tenets  of  our 
civil  service  reform  association  that  the  most  im- 
portant appointment  of  all  was  made  with  a  unanimity 


Brighton  to  Inverness.  37 

which  must  ever  be  flattering  to  the  distinguished 
gentleman  who  received  the  highly  responsible  ap- 
pointment of  general  manager.  Gardiner  had  evi- 
dently been  born  for  the  position.  A  man  does  not 
generally  learn  until  he  is  forty  what  he  can  do  to 
perfection  ;  but  there  are  thirty-two  ready  to  certify 
that  our  general  manager  has  not  needed  to  wait  so 
long.  If  he  ever  requires  backers  as  the  best  man- 
ager— the  very  ideal  manager  of  a  coaching  part}^  — 
apply  within.  He  had  ten  da3's'  instruction  from  a 
master  hand,  friend  Graham,  who  resigned  office  and 
retired  to  the  shades  of  private  life  at  Wolverhamp- 
ton. It  was  Mr.  Graham  who  arranged  all  the  pre- 
liminaries, so  that  none  of  us  had  a  thing  to  do  at 
Brighton  but  to  mount  into  our  seats.  He  and 
Gardiner  are  twins  in  greatness,  and,  as  far  as  our 
party  is  concerned,  neither  could  be  equalled  except 
by  the  other.  Just  here  let  me  note,  for  the  peace  of 
mind  of  any  gentleman  who  may  be  tempted  to  try 
the  coaching  experiment  :  Don't,  unless  you  have  a 
dear  friend  with  a  clear  head,  an  angelic  disposition, 
a  great  big  heart,  and  the  tact  essential  for  govern- 
ing, who  for  3-our  sake  is  willing  to  relieve  you  from 
the  cares  incident  to  such  a  tour — that  is,  if  you  ex- 
pect to  cnjo}'  it  as  a  recreation,  and  have  something 
that  forever  after  will  linger  in  the  memory  as  an 
adventure  in  wonderland. 

There  must  always  be  a  tendency  toward  group- 
ing in  a  large  party  :  groups  of  four  or  five,  and  in 
extreme  cases  a  group  of  two  ;  and  especially  is  this 
so  when  married  people,  cousins,  or  dear  friends  are 
of  the  company.  To  prevent  anything  like  this,  and 
insure  our  being  one  united  party,  I  asked  the  gen- 


38  OUR   COACHING    TRIP. 

tlemen  not  to  occupy  the  same  seat  twice  in  succes- 
sion— a  rule  which  gave  the  ladies  a  different  com- 
panion at  each  meal.  This  was  understood  to  apply 
in  a  general  way  to  our  strolls,  although  in  this  case 
the  general  manager,  with  rare  discretion,  winked  at 
many  infringements,  which  insured  him  grateful 
constituents  of  both  sexes.  Young  people  should 
never  be  held  too  strictly  to  such  rules,  and  a  chape- 
ron's duties,  as  we  all  know%  are  often  most  success- 
fully performed  by  a  wise  and  salutary  neglect. 
Our  general  manager  and  even  the  Lady  Dowager 
were  considerate. 

We  generally  started  about  half-past  nine  in  the 
morning,  half  an  hour  earlier  or  later  as  the  day's 
journey  was  to  be  long  or  short  ;  and  here  let  me 
record,  to  the  credit  of  all,  that  not  in  any  instance 
had  we  ever  to  wait  for  any  of  the  party  beyond  the 
five  minutes  allowed  upon  all  well-managed  lines  for 
"  variation  of  watches."  The  horn  sounded,  and 
we  were  off  through  the  cro\vds  Avhich  were  usually 
around  the  hotel  door  awaiting  the  start.  Nor  even 
at  meals  were  we  less  punctual  or  less  mindful  of  the 
comfort  of  others.  I  had  indeed  a  model  party  in 
every  way,  and  in  none  more  praiseworthy  than  in 
this,  that  the  Charioteers  were  always  "  on  time." 
Jeannie's  explanation  may  have  reason  in  it :  "  Who 
wouldn't  be  read}-  and  waiting  to  mount  the  coach  ! 
I'd  as  soon  be  late,  and  a  good  deal  sooner,  maybe, 
for  my  wedding  as  for  meals  ;  there  was  even  a 
better  reason  why  we  were  always  ready  then  :  we 
could  hardly  wait,"  We  did  indeed  eat  like  hawks, 
especially  at  luncheon— a  real  boj^'s  hunger — the 
ravenous  gnawing  after  a  day  at  the  sea  gathering 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  39 

whilks.  I  thought  this  had  left  me,  but  that  with 
many  another  characteristic  of  glorious  youth  came 
once  more  to  make  daft  callants  of  us.  O  those 
days  !  those  happy,  happ}^  days  !  Can  they  be 
brought  back  once  more  ?  Will  a  second  coaching 
trip  do  it  ?  I  would  be  off  next  summer.  But  one 
hesitates  to  put  his  luck  to  the  test  a  second  time, 
lest  the  perfect  image  of  the  first  be  marred.  We 
shall  see. 

During  the  evening  we  had  learned  the  next  day's 
stage — where  we  were  to  stay  over  night,  and,  what 
is  almost  as  important,  in  what  pretty  nook  we  were 
to  rest  at  midday  ;  on  the  banks  of  what  classic 
stream  or  wimpling  burn,  or  in  what  shady,  moss- 
covered  dell.  Several  people  of  note  in  the  neigh- 
borhood dropped  into  the  inn,  as  a  rule,  to  see  the 
American  coaching  party,  whose  arrival  in  the  vil- 
lage had  made  as  great  a  stir  as  if  it  were  the  ad- 
vance show- wagon  of  Barnum's  menagerie.  From 
these  the  best  route  and  objects  of  interest  to  be 
seen  could  readily  be  obtained.  The  ordnance  maps 
which  we  carried  kept  us  from  trouble  about  the 
right  roads  ;  not  only  this,  they  gave  us  the  name  of 
every  estate  we  passed,  and  of  its  owner. 

The  horses  have  to  be  considered  in  selecting  a 
luncheon-place,  which  should  be  near  an  inn,  where 
they  can  be  baited.  This  was  rarely  inconvenient ; 
but  upon  a  few  occasions,  when  the  choice  spot  was 
in  some  glen  or  secluded  place,  we  took  oats  along, 
and  our  horses  were  none  the  worse  off  lor  nibbling 
the  roadside  grass  and  drinking  from  the  brook. 
Nor  did  the  i)arty  look  less  like  the  aristocratic  gyp- 
sies they  felt  themselves    to  be    from  having  their 


40  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

coach  standing  on  the  moor  or  in  the  glen,  and  the 
horses  picketed  near  by,  as  if  we  were  just  the  true- 
born  gypsies.  And  was  there  ever  a  band  of  gypsies 
happier  than  we,  or  freer  from  care  ?  Didn't  we 
often  dash  off  in  a  roar  : 

"  See  !  the  smoking  bowl  before  us,      ' 

Mark  our  jovial  ragged  ring  ! 
Round  and  round  take  up  the  chorus, 

And  in  raptures  let  us  sing. 
A  fig  for  those  by  law  protected  ! 

Liberty's  a  glorious  feast  ! 
Courts  for  cowards  were  erected, 

Churches  built  to  please  the  priest." 

Halt  !  Ho  for  luncheon  !  Steps,  Joe.  Yes,  sir! 
The  committee  of  two  dismount  and  select  the 
choicest  little  bit  of  sward  for  the  table.  It  is  not 
too  warm,  still  we  will  not  refuse  the  shade  of  a 
noble  chestnut  or  fragrant  birk,  or  the  side  of  a  tall 
hedge,  on  which  lie,  in  one  magnificent  bed,  masses 
of  honeysuckle,  over  which  nod,  upon  graceful 
sprays,  hundreds  of  the  prettiest  wild  roses,  and  at 
whose  foot  grow  the  foxglove  and  wandering  willie. 

It  is  no  easy  matter  to  decide  which  piece  of  the 
velvety  lawn  is  finest ;  but  here  come  Joe  and  Perry 
with  armfuls  of  rugs  to  the  chosen  spot.  The  rugs 
are  spread  two  lengthwise  a  few  feet  apart,  and  one 
across  at  the  top  and  bottom,  leaving  for  the  table  in 
the  centre  the  fine  clovered  turf  with  buttercups  and 
daisies  pied.  The  ladies  have  gathered  such  handfuls 
of  wild  flowers  !  How  fresh,  how  unaffected,  and 
how  far  beyond  the  more  pretentious  bouquets  which 
grace  our  city  dinners  !  These  are  Nature's  own  dear 
children,  fresh    from    her  lap,  besprinkled  with  the 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  41 

dews  of  heaven,  unconscious  of  their  charms.  How 
touchingly  beautiful  are  the  wild  flowers  !  real  friends 
are  they,  close  to  our  hearts,  while  tho^e  of  the  con- 
servatory stand  outside,  fashionable  acquaintances 
onl}-. 

Give  us  the  wild  flowers,  and  take  your  prize 
varieties  ;  for  does  not  even  Tennyson  (a  good  deal 
of  a  cultivated  flower  himself)  sing  thus  of  the 
harshest  of  them  all,  though  to  a  Scotsman  sacred 
beyond  all  other  vegetation  : 

"  the  stubborn  thistle  bursting 
Into  glossy  purples,  which  outredden 
All  voluptuous  garden  roses." 

And  in  that  wonder  of  our  generation,  the  "  Light 
of  Asia,"  it  is  no  garden  beauties  who  are  addressed  : 

■"  Oh,  liowers  of  the  field  !  Siddartha  said, 
Who  turn  your  tender  faces  to  the  sun — 
Glad  of  the  light,  and  grateful  with  sweet  breath 
Of  fragrance  and  these  robes  of  reverence  donned, 
Silver  and  gold  and  purple — none  of  ye 
Miss  perfect  living,  none  of  ye  despoil 
Your  happy  beauty. 

What  secret  know  ye  that  ye  grow  content, 
From  time  of  tender  shoot  to  time  of  fruit. 
Murmuring  such  sun- songs  from  your  feathered  crowns  ?" 

You  may  be  sure  that  while  in  Scotland  old  Sco- 
tia's dear  emblem,  and  tliat  most  graceful  of  all 
flowers,  the  Scottish  bluebell,  towered  over  our 
bouquets,  and  that  round  them  clustered  the  others 
less  known  to  fame. 

It  was  an  easy  matter  to  tic  the  flowers  round 
sticks  and  press  these  into  the  soft  lawn,  and  then 
there  was  a  table  for  you— equal  it  who  can  !    Round 


42  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

this  the  travellers  range  themselves  upon  the  rugs, 
sometimes  finding  in  back  to  back  an  exxellent  sup- 
port, for  they  sat  long  at  table  ;  and  see  at  the  head — 
for  it's  the  head  wherever  the  Queen  Dowager  sits — 
mother  is  comfortably  seated  upon  the  smaller  of  the 
two  hampers.  The  larger  placed  on  end  before  her 
gives  her  a  private  table  :  she  has  an  exxellent  seat, 
befitting  her  dignity.  Joe  and  Perry  have  put  the 
horses  up  at  the  inn,  and  are  back  with  m.ugs  of 
foaming  ale,  bottles  of  Devonshire  cider,  lemonade, 
and  pitchers  of  fresh  creamy  milk,  that  all  tastes  may 
be  suited.  The  stewardess  and  her  assistants  have 
set  table,  and  now  luncheon  is  ready.  No  formal 
grace  is  necessar}^  for  our  hearts  have  been  over- 
flowing with  gratitude  all  the  day  long  for  the 
blessed  happiness  showered  upon  us.  We  owe  no 
man  a  grudge,  harbor  no  evil,  have  forgiven  all  our 
enemies,  if  we  have  any — for  we  doubt  the  existence 
of  enemies,  being  ourselves  the  enemy  of  none.  Our 
hearts  open  to  embrace  all  things,  both  great  and 
small ;  we  are  only  sorry  that  so  much  is  given  to 
us,  so  little  to  many  of  our  more  deserving  fellow- 
creatures.  Truly,  the  best  grace  this,  before  meat  or 
after  1 

"  He  prayeth  best  who  loveth  best 
All  things  both  great  and  small  ; 
For  the  dear  God  who  loveth  us, 
He  made  and  loveth  all." 

In  these  days  we  feel  for  the  Deevil  himself, 
and  wish  with  Burns  that  he  would  take  a  thought 
and  mend  ;  and,  as  Howells  says,  if  we  had  the 
namins:  of  creation  we  wouldn't  call  snakes  snakes 
while  coaching. 


BRIGHTON    TO   TYVERNESS.  43 

No  one  would  believe  what  fearful  appetites 
driving  in  this  climate  gives  one.  Shall  we  ever 
feel  such  tigerish  hunger  again  !  but,  what  is  just  as 
important,  shall  we  ever  again  have  such  luncheons  ! 
"  Give  me  a  sixpence,"  said  the  beggar  to  the  duke, 
"for  I'liave  nothing."  "  You  lie,  you  beggar  ;  I'd 
give  a  thousand  pounds  for  such  an  appetite  as 
you've  got."  Well,  ours  would  have  been  cheap  to 
you,  my  lord  duke,  at  double  the  money.  What  a 
roar  it  caused  one  day  when  one  of  the  young  ladies 
was  discovered  quietly  taking  the  third  slice  Of  cold 
ham.  •  "Well,  girls,  you  must  remember  I  was  on  the 
front  seat,  and  had  to  stand  the  brunt  of  the  weather 
this  morning. ' '  Capital  !  I  had  been  there  at  her  side, 
and  got  my  extra  allowance  on  the  same  ground  ; 
and  those  who  bore  the  brunt  of  the  weather  claimed 
a  great  many  second  and  even  third  allowances  dur- 
ing the  journey. 

Aleck  (^rtleck,  not  El-eck,  remember),  set  the  table 
in  a  roar  so  often  with  his  funny  sayiiigs  and  doings 
that  it  would  fill  the  record  were  I  to  recount  them, 
but  one  comes  to  mind  as  I  write  which  was  a  great 
hit. 

A  temperance — no,  a  total  abstinence  *lady.  re- 
buked him  once  for  taking  a  second  or  third  glass  of 
something,  telling  him  that  he  should  try  to  conquer 
his  liking  for  it,  and  assuring  him  that  if  he  would 
only  resist  the  Devil  he  would  flee  from  him.  "I 
know,"  said  the  wag  (and  with  such  a  comical,  good- 
natured  expression),   "that  is  what  the  good  book 

says,    Mrs. ,  but  I  have  generally  found  that  I 

was   the   fellow  who    had    to   get."     You    couldn't 
corner  Aaleck. 


44-  OUR   COACHING    TRIP. 

Although  we  were  coaching,  it  must  not  be 
thought  that  we  neglected  the  pleasures  of  walking. 
No,  indeed,  we  had  our  daily  strolls.  Sometimes 
the  pedestrians  started  in  advance  of  the  coach  from 
the  inn  or  the  luncheon  ground,  and  walked  until 
ovei  taken,  and  at  other  times  we  would  dismount 
some  miles  before  we  reached  the  end  of  the  day's 
journey,  and  walk  into  the  village.  This  was  a 
favorite  plan,  as  we  found  by  arriving  later  than  the 
main  body  our  rooms  were  ready  and  all  the  friends 
in  our  general  sitting-room  standing  to  welcome  us. 

Hills  upon  the  route  were  always  hailed  as  giving 
us  an  opportunity  for  a  walk  or  a  stroll,  and  all  the 
sport  derivable  from  a  happy  party  in  country  lanes. 
It  was  early  June,  quite  near  enough  to 

"  The  flowery  May  who  from  her  green  lap  throws 
The  yellow  cowslip  and  the  pale  primrose," 

and  the  hundreds  of  England's  wild  beauties  with 

"  quaint  enamcll'd  eyes, 
That  on  the  green  turf  suck  the  honeyed  showers, 
And  purple  all  the  ground  with  vernal  flowers." 

We  carried  perpetual  flowering  summer  with  us 
as  we  travelled  from  south  to  north,  plucking  the 
wild  roses  and  the  honeysuckles  from  the  hedges 
near»Brighton,  never  missing  their  sweet  influences, 
and  finding  them  ready  to  welcome  us  at  Inverness, 
as  if  they  had  waited  till  our  approach  to  burst  forth 
in  their  beauty  in  kindly  greeting  of  their  kinsmen 
from  over  the  sea.  A  dancing,  laughing  welcome 
did  the  wild  flowers  of  m.y  native  land  give  to  us, 
God  bless  them  ! 

On  our  arrival  at  the  inn  for  the  night,  the  gener- 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  45 

al  manager  examined  the  rooms  and  assigned  them  ; 
Joe  and  Perry  handed  over  the  bags  to  the  servants  ; 
the  party  went  direct  to  their  general  sitting-room, 
and  in  a  few  minutes  were  taken  to  their  rooms, 
where  all  was  ready  for  them.  The  two  American 
flags  were  placed  upon  the  mantel  of  the  sitting- 
room,  in  which  there  was  always  a  piano,  and  we  sat 
down  to  dinner  a  happy  band. 

The  long  twilight  and  the  gloaming  in  Scotland 
gave  us  two  hours  after  dinner  to  see  the  place  ;  and 
after  our  return  an  hour  of  musical  entertainment  was 
generally  enjoyed,  and  we  were  off  to  bed  to  sleep  the 
sound,  refreshing  sleep  of  childhood's  innocent  days. 
The  duties  of  the  general  manager,  however,  re- 
quired his  attendance  down  stairs;  he  had  to-morrow's 
route  to  learn  and  the  landlord  or  landlady,  as  the 
case  might  be,  to  see.  Some  of  the  male  members 
of  the  party  were  not  loath  to  assist  in  this  business, 
and  I  have  heard  many  a  story  of  the  pranks  played 
— for  these  good  friends  Aleck,  Graham,  and  Martin 
are  not  unlike  Mr.  John  S.  Kennedy's  Piper,  "  Rory 
Murphy," 

"  Who  had  of  good  auld  sangs  the  wale 
To  please  the  wives  that  brewed  good  ale  ; 
He  charmed  the  swats  frae  cog  and  pail 
As  he  cam  through  Uuinbarton." 

No  doubt  the  landlord's  laugh  was  ready  chorus, 
and  the  Gay  Charioteers  of  this  department,  I  make 
bold  to  say,  tasted  most  of  the  "  far  ben"  barrels  of 
every  landlord  or  landlady  .in  their  way  northward. 
The  question  of  the  weather  occurs  to  every  one.  "  If 
you  have  a  dry  season,  it  may  be  done  ;  if  a  wet 
one,  I  doubt  it,"  was  the  opinion  of  one  of  my  wisest 
4 


46  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

friends  in  Britain.  We  Avere  surprisingly  fortunate 
in  this  respect.  Only  one  day  did  we  suffer  seriously 
from  rain.  A  gentle  shower  fell  now  and  then  to 
cool  the  air  and  lay  the  dust,  or  rather  to  prevent 
the  dust,  and  seemingly  to  recreate  vegetation.  Who 
wouldn't  bear  a  shower,  if  properly  supplied  with 
waterproofs  and  umbrellas,  for  the  fresh  glory  re- 
vealed thereafter.  Only  a  continual  downpour  for 
days  could  have  dampened  the  ardor  of  the  Gay' 
Charioteers.  Good  coaching  weather  may  be  ex- 
pected in  June  and  July,  if  one  may  indulge  any 
weather  anticipations  in  England.  After  we  left  the 
deluge  came  ;  nothing  but  rain  was  reported  dur- 
ing August  and  September.  Strong,  thick  shoes, 
one  pair  in  reserve,  and  overshoes  for  the  ladies, 
heavy  woollen  clothing — under  and  over — a  water- 
proof, an  umbrella,  and  a  felt  hat  that  won't  spoil — 
these  rendered  us  almost  independent  of  the  weather 
and  prepared  us  to  encounter  the  worst  ever  predicted 
of  the  British  climate  ;  and  this  is  saying  a  great  deal, 
for  the  natives  do  grumble  inordinately  about  it.  As 
I  have  said,  however,  our  travelling  was  never  put 
to  a  severe  test.  England  and  Scotland  smiled  upon 
the  coaching  party,,  and  compelled  us  all  to  fall 
deeply  in  love  with  their  unrivalled  charms.  We 
thought  that  even  in  tears  this  blessed  isle  must  still 
be  enchanting.  The  same  horses  (with  one  excep- 
tion) took  us  through  from  Brighton  to  Inverness. 
This  has  surprised  some  horsemen  here,  but  little  do 
they  know  of  the  roads  and  climate,  nor  of  Perry's 
care.  The  horses  were  actually  in  better  condition 
after  the  journey  than  when  they  started.  For 
luncheon,  "good  my  liege,  all  place  a  temple  and 


BRIGHTON   TO  INVERNESS.  47 

all  seasons  summer;"  but  for  lodgings  and  entertain- 
ment for  man  and  beast,  how  did  we  manage  these  ? 
Shall  we  not  take  our  ease  in  our  inn  ?  and  shall  not 
mine  host  of  The  Garter,  ay  and  mine  hostess  too, 
prove  the  most  obliging  of  people  ?  I  do  not  sup- 
pose that  it  would  be  possible  to  find  in  any  other 
country  such  delightful  inns  at  every  stage  of  such  a 
journey.  Among  many  pretty  objects  upon  which 
memory  lovingly  rests,  these  little  wayside  inns 
stand  prominently  forward.  The  very  names  carry 
one  back  to  quaint  days  of  old  :  "  The  Lamb  and 
Lark,"  "  The  Wheat  Sheaf,"  "  The  Barley  Mow." 
Oh,  you  fat  wight,  your  inn  was  in  Eastcheap,  but  in 
your  march  through  Coventry,  when  you  wouldn't 
go  with  your  scarecrows,  it  was  to  some  pretty  inn 
you  went,  you  rogue,  with  its  trailing  vines,  thatched 
roof,  and  pretty  garden  flower-pots  in  the  windows  ; 
and  upon  such  excursions  it  was,  too,  that  you  ac- 
quired that  love  of  nature  which  enabled  the  master 
with  six  words  to  cover  most  that  was  unsavory  in 
your  character,  and  hand  you  down  to  generations 
unborn,  shrived  and  absolved.  Dear  old  boy — whom 
one  would  like  to  have  known — for  after  all  you 
were  right.  Jack  :  "  If  Adam  felj  in  an  age  of  inno- 
cency,  what  was  poor  Jack  Falstaff  to  do  in  an  age 
of  villainy  !"  There  was  something  pure  and  good 
at  bottom  of  one  who  left  us  after  life's  vanities  were 
o'er  pla3'ing  with  flowers  and  "  babbling  o'  green 
fields."  These  country  hostelrics  are  redolent  of  the 
green  fields.  It  is  in  such  we  would  take  our  ease 
in  our  inn.  The  host,  hostess,  and  servants  assem- 
bled at  the  door  upon  our  arrival,  and  welcomed  us 
to  their  home,  as  they  also  cio  when  wc  leave  to  bid 


48  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

US  God-speed.  We  mount  and  drive  off  with  smiles, 
bows,  and  wavings  of  the  hands  from  them  ;  and 
surely  the  smiles  and  good  wishes  of  those  who  have 
done  so  much  to  promote  our  comfort  over  night 
are  no  bad  salute  for  us  as  we  blow  our  horn  and 
start  on  the  fresh  dewy  mornings  upon  our  day's 
journey. 

The  scrupulous  care  bestowed  upon  us  and  our 
belongings  by  the  innkeepers  excited  remark.  Not 
one  article  was  lost  of  the  fifty  packages,  great  and 
small,  required  by  fifteen  persons.  It  was  not  even 
practicable  to  get  rid  of  any  trifling  article  which 
had  served  its  purpose  ;  old  gloves  or  discarded 
brushes  quietly  stowed  away  in  some  drawer  or 
other  would  be  handed  to  us  at  the  next  stage,  hav- 
ing betsn  sent  by  express  by  these  careful,  honest 
people.  It  was  a  great  and  interesting  occasion,  as 
the  reporters  say,  when  the  stowed-away  pair  of  old 
slippers  which  she  had  purposely  left,  were  deliv- 
ered to  one  of  our  ladies  with  a  set  speech  after  din- 
ner one  evening.  Little  did  she  suspect  what  was 
contained  in  the  nice  package  which  had  been  for- 
Avarded.  Our  cast-off  things  were  veritable  devil's 
ducats  which  would  return  to  plague  us. 

We  all  have  our  special  weaknesses  as  to  the 
articles  we  leave  behind  at  hotels.  Mine  is  well 
known  ;  but  I  smile  as  I  write  at  the  cleverness 
shown  in  preventing  my  lapses  during  the  excursion 
from  coming  before  the  congregation.  It  was  a 
wary  eye  which  was  kept  upon  forwarded  parcels, 
mark  you,  and  not  once  was  I  presented  with  a  left 
article.  The  eleventh  commandment  is,  not  to  be 
found  out.  • 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  49 

With  these  general  observations  we  shall  not 
"leave  the  subject  with  you,"  but,  retracing-  our 
steps  to  the  hills  overlooking  Brighton,  we  shall 
mount  the  coach  waiting  there  for  us  at  the  King's 
Cross  Inn  ;  for  you  remember  we  dismounted  there 
while  the  horses  were  watered  for  the  first  time. 
Ten  miles  of  bewildering  pleasure  had  brought  us 
here ;  some  of  us  pushed  forward  and  had  our  first 
stroll,  but  we  scattered  in  a  minute,  for  who  could 
resist  the  flowers  which  tempted  us  at  every  step  ! 
The  roses  were  just  in  season  :  the  honeysuckle, 
ragged  robin,  meadow  sweet,  wandering  willie,  and 
who  can  tell  how  many  others  whose  familiar  names 
are  household  words.  What  bouquets  we  gathered, 
what  exclamations  of  delight  were  heard  as  one 
mass  of  beauty  after  another  burst  upon  our  sight ! 
We  began  to  realize  that  Paradise  lay  before  us,  be- 
gan to  know  that  we  had  discovered  the  ra'rest  plan 
upon  earth  for  pleasure  ;  as  for  duty  that  was  not 
within  our  horizon.  We  scarcely  knew  there  was 
work  to  do.  An  echo  of  a  moan  from  the  weary 
world  we  had  cast  behind  was  not  heard.  Divinest 
melancholy  was  out  of  favor  ;  II  Penseroso,  was  dis- 
carded for  the  time,  and  L' Allegro,  the  happier  god- 
dess, crowned,  bringing  in  her  train-— 

"  Sport,  that  wrinkled  Care  derides, 
And  Laughter,  holding  both  his  sides  ; 
Come,  and  trip  it  as  you  go. 
On  the  light,  fantastic  toe." 

That  does  not  quite  express  it,  for  there  was  time 
for  nioincntar}'-  pauses  now  and  then,  when  the  heart 
swelled  with  gratitude.  We  were  so  grateful  for 
beinir    so    blessed.     It    was    during    this    stroll    that 


50  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

Emma  came  quietly  to  my  side,  slipped  her  arm  in 
mine,  and  said  in  that  rich,  velvety  English  voice 
which  we  all  envy  her  :  "  Oh,  Andrew,  when  I  am 
to  go  home  you  will  have  to  tell  me  plainly,  for  in- 
deed I  shall  never  be  able  to  leave  this  of  my  own 
accord.  I  haven't  been  as  happy  since  I  wasaj^oung 
girl."  "  Do  you  really  think  you  could  go  all  the 
way  to  Inverness?"  "  Oh,  I  could  go  on  this  way 
forever."  "All  right,  my  lady,  'check  your  bag- 
gage through,'  as  we  say  in  Yankeedom  ;"  and  never 
did  that  woman  lose  sight  of  the  coach  till  it  was 
torn  away  from  her  at  Inverness.  We  reached 
Horsham  and  lunched  there  at  the  King's  Arms, 
walked  about  its  principal  square,  and  were  off  again 
for  Guildford.  As  we  leave  the  sea  the  soil  becomes 
richer,  and  ere  we  reach  Horsham  we  say,  yes,  this 
is  England  indeed  ;  but  I  forgot  we  passed  through 
the  Weald  of  Sussex  before  reaching  Horsham.  The 
cloudy  sky  cast  deep  shadows  with  the  sunbeams 
over  the  rich,  wooded  landscape,  as  no  clear  blue 
sky  has  power  to  do,  and  brought  to  my  mind  Mrs. 
Browning's  lines  : 

.  .  .  "  my  woods  in  Sussex  have  some  purple  shades  at  gloaming, 
Which  are  worthy  of  a  king  in  state,  or  poet  in  his  youth. 

********** 
Oh,  the  blessed  woods  of  Sussex,  I  can  hear  them  still  around  me, 
With  their  leafy  tide  o\  greenery  still  rippling  up  the  wind  !" 

And  many  a  stately  home  did  we  see,  fit  for  her 
"  who  spake  such  good  thoughts  natural." 

Mrs.  Browning  is  said  to  have  written  Lady 
Geraldme  in  a  few  hours,  lying  upon  a  sofa.  This 
is  one  of  the  proofs  cited  that  genius  does  its  work 
as   if    by    inspiration    without    great    effort.     What 


BRIGHTON   TO   INVERNESS.  51 

nonsevnse  !  The  Victoria  Regina  bursts  into  flower 
in  a  day  ;  but,  look  you,  a  hundred  years,  of  quiet, 
unceasing-  growth,  which  stopped  not  night  nor 
day,  was  the  period  of  labor  preceding  the  miracle 
— a  hundred  years,  during  all  of  which  the  vine 
drank  of  the  sunshine  and  the  dews.  Scott  wrote 
some  of  his  best  works  in  a  few  weeks,  but  for  a  life- 
time he  never  flagged  in  his  Avork  of  gathering  the 
fruits  of  song  and  story.  Burns  dashed  off  "A 
man's  a  man  for  a'  that"  in  a  jiffy-  Yes,  but  for 
how  many  years  were  his  very  heartstrings  tingling 
and  his  blood  boiling  at  the  injustice  of  hereditar}' 
rank  !     His  life  is  in  that  song,  not  a  few  hours  of  it. 


Guildford,  June  17. 

The  approach  to  Guildford  gives  us  our  first  real, 
pertect  English  lane — so  narrow  and  so  bound  in  by 
towering  hedgerows  worthy  the  name.  Had  we 
met  a  vehicle  at  some  of  the  prettiest  turns  there 
would  have  been  trouble,  for,  although  the  lane  is 
not  quite  as  narrow  at  the  pathway  of  the  auld  brig, 
where  two  wheelbarrows  trembled  as  they  met,  yet 
a  four-in-hand  upon  an  English  lane  requires  a  clear 
track.  Vesretation  near  Guildford  is  luxuriant  enough 
to  meet  our  expectations  of  England.  It  was  at  the 
White  Lion  we  halted,  and  here  came  our  first  ex- 
perience of  quarters  for  the  night.  The  first  dinner 
en  route  was  a  decided  success  in  our  fine  sitting- 
room,  the  American  flags,  brought  into  requisition 
for  the  first  time  to  decorate  the  mantel,  bringing  to 
all  sweet  memories  of  home. 

We  had  done  our  first  day's  coaching,  and  a  long 
dav  at  that,  and  looking  back  it  is  amusing  to  remem- 


53  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

ber  how  anxiously  I  awaited  the  reports  of  the  ladies 
of  our  party  ;  for  it  was  not  without  grave  apprehen- 
sion that  some  must  fall  by  the  wayside,  as  it  were, 
as  we  journeyed  on.  One  who  had  tried  coaching 
upon  this  side  had  informed  me  that  few  ladies  could 
stand  it;  but  it  was  very  evident  that  the  spirits  and 
appetites  of  ours  were  entirely  satisfactory,  and  they 
all  laughed  at  the  idea  that  they  could  not  go  on  for- 
ever. Mother  was  quite  as  fresh  as  any.  It  was  a 
shame  that  general  orders  consigned  to  bed  at  an 
early  hour- two  -of  the  ladies  thought  least  robust, 
while  the  others  walked  about  the  suburbs  of  Guild- 
ford until  late.  I  recollect  we  stood  in  the  thicken- 
ing twilight  in  front  of  an  ivy-clad  residence  for  some 
time,  and  asked  each  other  if  anything  so  exquisite 
had  ever  been  seen,  so  full  of  rest,  of  home.  The 
next  morning  all  were  fresh  and  happy,  without  a 
trace  of  fatigue — full  of  yesterday,  and  quite  sure 
that  no  other  day  could  equal  it.  But  this  was  often 
said  :  many  and  many  a  day  was  voted  the  finest  yet, 
only  to  be  eclipsed  in  its  turn  by  a  later,  till  at  last 
an  effort  to  name  our  best  day  led  to  twenty  selec- 
tions, and  ended  in  the  general  conclusion  that  it  was 
impossible  to  say  which  had  crowded  within  its  hours 
the  rarest  treat,  for  none  had  all  the  finest,  neither 
did  any  lack  something  of  the  best.  But  there  is  one 
point  upon  which  a  unanimous  verdict  can  always 
be  had  from  the  Gay  Charioteers,  that  to  such  days  in 
the  mass  none  but  themselves  can  be  their  parallel. 

I  ran  into  a  book-shop  in  the  morning  and  ob- 
tained a  local  guide-book,  that  I  might  cull  for  you 
the  proper  quotations  therefrom.  It  consists  of  148 
pages,  mostly  given  up  to  notices  of  the  titled  people 


BRIGHTON   TO   INVERNESS.  53 

who  visited  the  old  town  long  ago  ;  but  who  cares 
about  them  ?  Here,  however,  is  something  of  more 
interest  than  all  those  nobodies.  Cobbett  says  of 
Guildford,  in  his  "  Rural  Rides  ": 

"  I,  who  have  seen  so  many  towns,  think  this  the 
prettiest  and  most  happy-looking  I  ever  saw  in  my 
life."  There's  praise  for  you  !  But,  then,  he  had 
never  seen  Dunfermline.  Here  is  a  characteristic 
touch  of  that  rare,  horse-sense  kind  of  a  man.  He 
is  enraptured  over  the  vale  of  Chilworth. 

"  Here,  in  this  tranquil  spot,  where  the  nightin- 
gales are  to  be  heard  earlier  and  later  in  the  year 
than  in  anv  other  part  of  England,  where  the  first 
budding  of  the  trees  is  seen  in  the  spring,  where  no 
rigor  of  seasons  can  ever  be  felt,  where  everything 
seems  framed  for  precluding  the  very  thought  of 
wickedness — this  has  the  devil  fixed  on  as  one  of  his 
seats  of  his  grand  manufactory,  and  perverse  and 
even  ungrateful  man  not  only  lends  his  aid,  but  lends 
it  cheerfully." 

Since  these  days,  friend  Cobbett,  the  devil  has 
much  enlarged  his  business  in  gunpowder  and  bank- 
notes, of  which  you  complain.  He  was  only  making 
a  start  when  you  wrote.  The  development  of  manu- 
factures in  America  (under  a  judicious  tariff,  be  it 
reverently  spoken),  amazing  as  it  has  been,  and 
carried  on  as  a  rule  by  the  saints,  is  slow  work  com- 
pared with  what  his  satanic  majesty  has  been  doing 
in  these  two  departments.  We  must  bestir  ourselves 
betimes. 

You  remember  Artemus  Ward's  encounter  with 
the  colporteur.  After  a  long,  dusty  day's  journey, 
arriving  at  the  hotel,  he  applied  to  the  barkeeper  for 


54  OUR   COACHING    TRIP. 

a  mint-julep,  and  just  as  Artemus  was  raising  the 
tempting  draught  to  his  lips,  a  hand  was  laid  upon 
his  arm  and  the  operation  arrested.  The  missionary 
in  embryo  said  in  a  kind  of  sepulchral  tone,  for  he 
was  only  a  beginner  and  had  not  yet  reached  that 
true  professional  voice  which  comes  only  after  years 
of  exhortation  :  "  My  friend,  look  not  upon  the  wine 
when  it  is  red.  It  stingeth  like  a  serpent  and  it  bit- 
eth  as  an  adder."  "  Guess  not,  stranger,"  i-eplied 
Artemus,  "  not  if  you  put  sugar  in  it." 

It  is  just  so  with  bank-notes,  friend  Cobbett. 
They  don't  bite  worth  a  cent,  neither  do  they  sting, 
if  you  have  government  bonds 'behind  them.  But 
this  was  not  understood  in  your  day. 

There  is  a  funny  thing  in  this  guide-book. 
"  There  also  resides  Mr.  Martin  Farquhar  Tupper, 
the  author  of  *  Proverbial  Philosophy,'  etc.  He 
has  eulogized  the  scene  around  as  follows  :"  Then 
come  two  pages  of  Tupper.  I  naturally  looked  to 
see  the  name  of  the  author  of  the  book,  but  none 
was  given.  Such  modesty  !  But  I  think  the  case  a 
clear  one,  for  who  but  Tupper  would  quote  Tupper  I 
"  Sir,"  said  Johnson  to  Bossy,  "  Sir,  I  never  did 
the  man  an  injury  in  my  life,  and  yet  he  would  per- 
sist in  reading  his  tragedy  to  me,"  Here's  the 
concluding  quotation  from  the  guide-book  of  Guild- 
ford, and  I  promise  not  to  quote  much  more  from 
any  similar  source. 

Cobbett  says  that  in  Albury  Park  he  saw  some 
plants  of  the  "  American  cranberry,  which  not  only 
grow  here,  but  bear  fruit,  and  therefore  it  is  clear 
that  they  may  be  cultivated  with  great  ease  in  this 
country."     And  so  they  have  been  and  are.      Pota- 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  55 

toes,  tomatoes,  and  cranberries — look  at  the  great 
blessings  America  has  bestowed  upon  the  "  author 
of  her  being-  ;"  and  what  won't  grow  in  the  rain  and 
fog,  doesn't  she  grow  for  her  and  send  over  by  every 
steamer,  from  canvas-back  ducks  to  Newtown  pip- 
pins !  At  dinner-tables  in  England,  nowadays,  to  the 
usual  grace,  "  O  Lord  !  for  what  we  are  about  to  re- 
ceive make  us  truly  thankful,"  there  should  be  add- 
ed, "and  render  us  truly  grateful  to  our  big  son 
Jonathan." 

One  could  settle  down  at  the  White  Lion  in 
Guildford,  and  spend  a  month,  at  least,  visiting  every 
day  fresh  objects  of  interest,  and  I  have  no  doubt 
becoming  day  by  day  more  charmed  with  the  life  he 
was  leading.  In  every  direction  historical  scenes, 
crowded  full  of  instructive  stories  of  the  past,  invite 
us;  and  yet  to-morrow  morning  the  horn  will  sound, 
and  we  shall  be  off,  reluctantly  saying  to  ourselves, 
we  must  return  some  day  when  we  have  leisure, 
and  wander  in  and  around,  absorb  and  moralize. 
This  rapid  survey  is  only  to  show  us  what  we  can 
do  hereafter.  A  summer  to  each  county  would  not 
be  too  much,  and  here  arc  eight  hundred  miles  from 
sea  to  firth  to  be  rushed  over  in  seven  weeks.  Guild- 
ford, farewell  ! — on  "  to  fresh  fields  and  pastui-es 
new. "  During  our  second  day's  stage  we  learned  the 
valuable  lesson  that  we  should  not  attempt  to  coach 
through  England  without  having  the  ordnance  sur- 
vey maps,  and  paying  close  attention  to  them.  In 
this  part  of  the  country,  so  near  to  monster  London, 
the  roads  and  lanes  arc  innumerable,  and  run  here, 
there,  and  everywhere.  Vou  can  reach  an}^  point 
by  many  different  roads.     Guide-posts  have  a_dozeii 


56  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

names  upon  them.  We  did  some  sailing  out  of  our 
course  to-day,  and  found  many  charming  spots  not 
down  in  the  chart,  which  the  straight  line  would 
have  caused  us  to  miss  ;  but  it  was  late  ere  Wind- 
sor's towers  made  their  appearance.  The  day  was 
not  long  enough  for  us,  long  as  it  was,  but  the  fifty 
miles  we  are  said  to  have  traversed  were  quite 
enough  for  the  horses.  But  next  day  would  be  Sun- 
day, Ave  said,  and  they  had  a  long  rest  to  look  for- 
ward to  at  Windsor. 

Windsor,  June  18-20. 

Upon  reaching  the  forest,  general  manager  Gra- 
ham insisted  that  the  chief  should  take  the  reins  and 
drive  his  part}^  through  the  royal  domain.  This  was 
my  first  trial  as  a  whip  of  a  four-in-hand,  and  not  a 
very  successful  one  either.  It's  easy  enough  to  han- 
dle the  ribbons,  but  how  to  do  this  and  spare  a  hand 
for  the  whip  troubles  one.  As  Josh  Billings  remarks 
in  the  case  of  religion,  "  It's  easy  enough  to  get 
religion,  but  to  hold  on  to  it  is  what  bothers  a 
fellow.  A  good  grip  is  here  worth  more  than 
rubies."  I  had  not  the  grip  for  the  whip,  but  it 
did  give  me  a  rare  pleasure  when  I-  got  a  moment 
or  two  now  and  then  (when  Perry  held  the  whip), 
to  think  that  I  was  privileged  to  drive  my  friends  in 
style  up  to  Her  Majesty's  very  door  at  Windsor. 
Only  to  the  door,  for  that  good  woman  was  not  at 
home,  but  in  bonnie  Scotland,  sensible  lady!  As  we 
were  en  route  ourselves,  we  were  quite  in  the  fashion. 
Some  of  her  republican  subjects  were  quite  disappoint- 
ed at  not  getting  a  glimpse  of  her  during  the  tour. 

The  drive  through  the  grounds  gave  to  some  of 
our  party  their  first  sight  of  an  English  park,  and  I 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  57 

am  sure  the  impression  it  made  upon  them  will  never 
be  effaced. 

Windsor  at  last,  a  late  dinner  and  a  stroll  through 
the  quaint  town,  the  castle  towering;  over  all  in  the 
cloudy  night,  and  we  are  off  to  bed,  but  not  before 
we  had  enjoyed  an  hour  of  the  wildest  frolic,  though 
tired  and  sleepy  after  the  long  drive.  We  laughed 
until  our  sides  ached,  but  how  vain  to  attempt  to  de- 
scribe the  fun  !  To  detail  the  trifles  light  as  air 
which  kept  us  in  a  roar  during  our  excursion  is  like 
offering  you  stale  champagne.  No,  no,  gone  for- 
ever are  those  rare  nothings  which  were  so  delicious 
when  fresh  ;  but,  for  the  benefit  of  the  members  of 
the  Circle,  I'll  just  sa}^  "  Poole."  It  was  a  happy 
thought  to  put  Gardiner's  suit  of  new  clothes  in 
Davie's  package  and  await  results.  We  had  all  or- 
dered travelling  suits  in  London,  and  when  they 
arrived  we  all  began  to  try  them  on  at  once.  Da- 
vie's disappointment  at  getting  an  odd-looking  suit 
fancied  by  Gardiner  was  so  genuine  !  But  such  a  per- 
fect fit,  though  a  mistake,  maybe,  as  to  material  ;  and 
then,  when  he  tried  his  own  suit,  what  a  misfit  it  was  ! 
The  climax  :  "  David,  if  you  are  going  to  " — but  this 
is  too  much  !  The  tears  are  rolling  down  my 
cheeks  once  more  as  I  picture  that  wild  scene. 

We  heard  the  chimes  at  midnight,  and  then  to 
bed.  Windsor  is  nothing  iniless  royal.  It  is  all 
over  royal,  although  Her  Majesty  was  absent.  But 
the  Prince  of  Wales  was  there,  and  a  greater  than  he — 
Mr.  Gladstone — had  run  down  Irom  muggy  London 
to  refresh  his  faded  energies  by  communing  with 
nature.  It  is  said  thai  his  friends  are  alarmed  at  his 
haggard  appearance  toward  the  close  of  each  week  ; 


58  OUR   COACHING    TRIP. 

« 

but  he  spends  Saturday  and  Sunday  in  the  country, 
and  returns  on  Monday  to  surprise  them  at  the 
change.  Ah  !  he  has  found  the  kindest,  truest  nurse, 
for  he  knows  — 

"  that  Nature  never  did  betray 
The  heart  that  loved  her  ;  'tis  her  privilege, 
Through  all  the  years  of  this  our  life,  to  lead 
From  joy  to  joy  :  for  she  can  so  inform 
The  mind  that  is  within  us,  so  impress  <» 

With  quietness  and  beauty,  and  so  feed 
With  lofty  thoughts,  that  neither  evil  tongues,  » 

Rash  judgments,  nor  the  sneers  of  selfish  men. 
Her  greetings  where  no  kindness  is,  nor  all 
The  dreary  intercourse  of  daily  life. 
Shall  e'er  prevail  against  us,  or  disturb 
Our  cheerful  faith,  that  all  which  we  behold 
Is  full  of  blessings." 

Mr.  Gladstone's  fresh  appearance  Monday  morn- 
ing's gratifies  his  friends,  and  I  will  believe  pleases 
even  his  opponents,  for  such  a  man  can  have  no  ill- 
wishers,  surely.  When  Confucius  had  determined  to 
behead  the  emperor's  corrupt  brother,  his  counsel- 
lors endeavored  to  dissuade  him,  from  a  just  fear 
that  the  criminal's  friends  would  rise  and  avenge 
his  death.  "  Friends  !"  said  the  sage,  "  such  a  char- 
acter may  have  adherents,  but  friends  never." 

The  result  proved  his  wisdom.  No  revolt  came, 
though  Confucius  stood  by  to  see  justice  done,  re- 
fusing to  listen  to  the  petition  of  the  emperor  for  his 
own  brother's  life.  In  like  manner,  Mr.  Gladstone 
may  have  opponents — enemies  never.  All  English- 
men must  in  their  hearts  honor  the  man  who  is  a 
credit  to  the  race.  By  the  way,  he's  Scotch,  let  me 
note,  and  never  fails  to  bear  in  mind  and  to  mention 
this  special  cause  for  thankfulness.     I   suspect  that 


BRIGHTON   TO  INVERNESS.  59 

this  fact  has  not  a  httle  to  do  with  the  intense  en- 
thusiasm of  Scotland  for  him.  We  are  a  queer  lot, 
up  in  the  North  Countrie,  and  he  is  our  ain  bairn. 
Blood  is  thicker  than  water  everywhere,  but  in  no 
part  of  this  world  is  it  so  very  much  thicker  ^s  beyond 
the  Tweed. 

We  attended  church  at  Windsor  and  saw  the 
great  man  and  the  other  come  to  the  door  together. 
There  the  former  stopped  and  the  other  walked  up 
the  aisle,  causing  a  flutter  in  the  congregation.  Mr. 
Gladstone  followed  at  a  respectful  distance,  and 
took  his  seat  several  pews  behind.  How  absurd  you 
are,  my  young  lady  republican  !  Can  you  not  un- 
derstand ?  One  is  .only  the  leading  man  in  the  em- 
pire— a  man  who,  in  a  fifty  years'  tussle  with  the 
foremost  statesmen  of  the  age,  has  won  the  crown 
both  for  attainments  and  character  ;  but  the  other, 
bless  your  ignorant  little  head  ! — he  is  a  prince. 

Well,  if  he  is,  he  has  never  done  anything,  you 
say.  You  are  mistaken  here  again,  miss.  He  has 
shot  poor  tame  pigeons  from  a  trap,  many  a  time, 
like  a  man  ;  has  even  killed  a  pig,  for  they  told  me 
in  India  how  they  placed  him  upon  a  platform  in  a 
tree,  out  of  harm's  way,  and  then  drove  the  pig  past, 
and  he  actually  hit  it.  My  dear  girl,  I'll  lay  two  to 
one  that  Gladstone  would  have  missed  it  ;  and  if 
the  prince  were  to  challenge  him  to  a  pigeon-match, 
he  would  turn  awa}^  chicken-hearted.  Truly,  the 
prince  is  the  right  man  of  the  two,  you  see,  for  a 
cultured,  civilized  people  to  prefer  and  make  the 
fountain  of  honor — King  of  England  and  Emperor 
(of  India)  too — a  bad  word  this  and  un-English.  The 
prince  is  the   highest  product  of  this  people,   else 


6o  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

they    would    never   elevate   him   above   all    others. 
Go  to  ;  you  talk  like  a  green  girl. 

In  the  afternoon  we  attended  St.  George's 
Chapel.  In  one  of  the  stalls  v/e  saw  again  that  sadly 
noble  lion-face — no  one  ever  mistakes  Gladstone.  He 
sat  wrapped  in  the  deepest  meditation.  He  is  very 
pale,  haggard,  and  careworn — the  weight  of  empire 
upon  him  ! 

"  I  tell  thee,  scorner  of  these  whitening  hairs, 
When  this  snow  melteth  there  shall  come  a  flood." 

I  could  not  help  applying  to  him  Milton's  lines  : 

.     .     .     "  with  grave 
Aspect  he  rose,  and  in  his  rising  seem'd 
A  pillar  of  state  :  deep  on  his  front  engraven 
Deliberati6n  sat  and  public  care  ; 
And  princely  counsel  in  his  face  yet  shone. 
Majestic  though  in  ruin." 

He  has  work  to  do  yet.  If  he  only  were  fifty 
instead  of  seventy  odd  !  Well,  God  bless  him  for 
what  he  has  done  ;  may  he  rule  England  long  ! 

A  memorable  event  occurred  at  Windsor,  Sunday, 
June  19th — my  mother  reached  her  seventy-first 
year.  At  breakfast  Mr.  Beck  rose,  and  addressing 
himself  to  her,  made  one  of  the  sweetest,  prettiest 
speeches  I  ever  heard.  He  presented  to  her  an  ex- 
quisite silver  cup,  ornamented  with  birds  and  flow- 
ers, and  inscribed  :  "  Presented  to  Mrs.  Margaret 
Carnegie,  at  Windsor,  by  the  members  of  the  coach- 
ing-party, upon  her  seventy-first  birthday."  Mr. 
Beck's  reference  to  mother's  intense  love  of  nature 
in  all  her  glorious  forms,  from  the  tiny  go  wan  to  the 
extended  landscape,  was  most  appropriate. 

Mother  and  I  were  completely   surprised  ;   and 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  ■6'l 

when  Mr.  Beck  concluded,  I  was  about  to  rise  and 
respond,  but  a  slight  motion  from  her  majesty  ap- 
prized me  that  she  preferred  to  reply  in  person. 
Well,  I  thought  I  was  the  speech-maker  for  the 
family.  I  wonder  what  that  woman  will  do  next  ! 
But  she  acquitted  herself  grandly.  Her  speech  was 
a  gem  ;  she  is  the  orator  of  the  family,  after  all  (Mem. 
— It  was  so  short).  After  thanking  her  dear  friends, 
she  said  : 

I  can  onl}^  wish  that  you  may  all  have  as  good 
health,  as  complete  command  of  all  your  faculties, 
and  enjoy  flowers  and  birds  and  all  things  of  nature 
as  much  as  I  do  at  seventy-one."  Here  the  voice 
trembled.  There  were  not  many  dry  eyes.  The  quiv- 
er ran  through  the  party,  and  without  another  word 
mother  sat  slowly  down,  I  was  very,  very  proud 
of  that  seventy-year  old  (I  am  often  that),  and  deep- 
ly moved,  as  she  was,  by  this  touching  evidence  of 
the  regard  of  the  coaching  party  for  her. 

This  incident  led  to  some  funny  stories  about 
presentation  speeches.  Upon  a  recent  occasion,  not 
far  from  Paisley,  Aggie  told  us,  a  worthy  deacon 
had  been  selected  to  present  a  robe  to  the  minister. 
The  church  was  crowded,  and  the  recipient  stood 
expectantly  at  the  foot  of  the  pulpit,  surrounded  by 
the  members  of  his  family.  Amid  breathless  silence 
the  committee  entered  and  marched  up  the  aisle, 
headed  by  the  deacon  bearing  the  gift  in  his  extend- 
ed arms.  On  reaching  the  pulpit  a  stand  was  made, 
but  never  a  word  came  from  the  deacon,  down 
whose  brow  the  perspiration  rolled  in  great  drops. 
He  was  in  a  daze,  but  a  touch  from  one  of  the  com- 
mittee brought  him  back  to  something  like  a  realiz- 
5 


62  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

ing  sense  of  his  position,  and  he  stammered  out.  as 
he  handed  the  robe  to  the  minister  : 

"  Mr.  Broon, 

Here's  the  goon." 

You  need  not  laugh.  It  is  not  likely  that  you 
could  make  as  good  a  speech,  which,  I'll  wager,  is 
far  better  than  the  one  over  which  he  had  spent 
sleepless  nights,  but  which  provide^itially  left  him  at 
the  critical  moment. 

Windsor,  seen  from  any  direction  at  a  distance,  is 
par  excellence  the  castle — a  truly  royal  residence  ; 
but,  seen  closely,  it  loses  the  grand  and  sinks  into 
something  of  prettiness.  It  is  no  longer  command- 
ing, and  is  insignificant  in  comparison  with  the  true 
castles  of  the  north.  The  glamour  flies  when  you 
begin  to  analyze.  Royalty's  famous  abode  should 
be  looked  at  as  royalty  itself  should  be — at  a  safe 
distance. 

Service  at  St.  George's  Chapel  will  not  soon  be 
forgotten  by  our  party.  The  stalls  of  the  Knights 
of  the  Garter,  over  the  canopies  of  which  hang  their 
swords  and  mantles  surmounted  by  their  crests  and 
armorial  bearings,  carry  one  far  back  into  the  days 
of  chivalry.  One  stall  arrested  and  held  my  atten- 
tion— that  of  the  Earl  of  Beaconsfield.  When  I  was 
not  gazing  at  Gladstone's  face,  I  was  moralizing 
upon  the  last  Knight  of  the  Garter,  whose  flag  still 
floats  above  the  stall.  Disraeli  won  the  blue  ribbon 
about  as  worthily  as  most  men,  and  by  much  the  same 
means — he  flattered  the  monarch.  But  there  is  this 
to  be  said  of  him  :  he  had  brains  and  made  himself. 

What  a  commentary  upon  pride  of  birth,  the  flag 
of  the  poor  literar}'  adventurer  floating  beside  that 


B RICH  TO. V    TO   INVERNESS.  (>Z 

of  my  lord  duke's  !  It  pleased  me  much  to  see  it. 
How  that  man  must  have  chuckled  as  he  bowed  his 
way  among-  his  dupes,  from  Her  Majesty  to  Salis- 
bury, and  passed  the  radical  extension  of  the  suffrage 
that  doomed  hereditary  privilege  to  speedy  extinc- 
tion. But  where  will  imperialism  get  such  another 
leader,  after  all  ?     It  has  not  found  him  yet. 

"  What  is  that  up  there  ?"  asked  one  of  our  party. 
"  The  royal  box,  miss."  Were  we  really  at  the 
opera,  then  ?  A  royal  box  in  church  for  the  worship 
of  God  !  Did  you  ever  hear  anything  like  that  ! 
There  is  a  roval  staircase,  too.  Why  not  ?  You 
would  not  have  royalty  on  an  equality  with  us, 
would  vou,  even  if  we  are  all  alike  miserable  sinners 
and  engaged  in  the  worship  of  that  God  who  is  no 
respecter  of  persons. 

"  Well,  I  think  this  is  awful,"  said  one  of  the 
party.  "  I  don't  believe  the  good  Queen  would  go 
to  church  in  this  way,  if  she  only  thought  of  it.  Our 
President  and  family  have  their  pew  just  like  the 
rest  of  us."  Our  English  members  were  equally 
surprised  that  the  American  should  see  an3'thing 
shocking  in  the  practice,  and  the  ladies  fought  out 
the  matter  between  themselves,  the  Americans  insist- 
ing that  the  Ouecn  should  attend  worship  as  other 
poor  sinners  do,  since  all  are  ccpial  in  (lod's  eyes  ; 
and  the  English  saying  little,  but  evidcntl_y  harboring 
the  idea  that  even  in  heaven  si)ccial  accommodations 
would  probably  be  found  reserved  for  royalty,  with 
maybe  a  special  staircase  to  ascend  by.  Early  edu- 
cation and  inherited  tendencies  account  fvor  much. 

The  staircase  question  led  to  the  stor}-  that  the 
Marquis  of   Lornc   was  not   allowed   to   enter  some 


64  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

performance  by  the  same  stair  with  his  wife.  The 
American  was  up  at  this.  "  If  I  had  a  husband,  and 
he  couldn't  come  with  me,  I  wouldn't  go."  This 
made  an  end  of  the  discussion,  for  the  Enghsh  young 
lady's  eyes  told  plainly  of  her  secret  vow  that  wher- 
ever she  went must  go  too.     All  were  agreed 

on  this  point  ;  but  on  the  general  question  it  was  a 
drawn  battle,  the  one  side  declaring  that  if-  they 
were  men  they  would  not  have  a  princess  for  a  wife 
under  any  circumstances,  and  the  other  insisting 
that,  if  they  were  princesses,  they  would  not  have 
anybody  but  a  prince  for  a  husband. 

Monday  was  another  thoroughly  English  day. 
The  silver  Thames  glistened  in  the  sun.  The  castle 
towered  in  all  its  majesty,  vivified  by  the  meteor 
iiag  which  fluttered  in  the  breeze.  The  grounds  of 
Eton  were  crowded  with  nice-looking  English  boys 
as  we  passed.  Many  of  us  walked  down  the  steep 
hill  and  far  into  the  country  in  advance  of  the  coach, 
and  felt  once  more  that  a  fine  day  in  the  south  of 
England  was  perfection  indeed.  The  sun  here  re- 
minds one  of  the  cup  that  cheers,  but  does  not  ine- 
briate :  its  rays  cheer,  but  never  scorch.  You  could 
not  tell  whether,  if  there  were  to  be  any  change,  you  ^ 
would  prefer  it  to  be  a  shade  cooler  or  a  shade 
warmer. 

Stoke  Pogis  is  a  few  miles  out  of  our  direct  road, 
but  who  would  miss  that,  even  were  the  detour 
double  what  the  ordnance  survey  makes  it.  Besides, 
had  not  Miss  Whitfield,  a  stay-at-home,  told  us  that 
one  of  the  happiest  days  of  her  life  was  that  spent  in 
making  a  pilgrimage  to  the  shrine  of  the  poet. 
Gray's  was  the  first  shrine  at  which  we  stopped  to 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  65 

worship,  and  the  beauty,  the  stiUness,  the  peace  of 
that  low,  quaint,  ivy-covered  church,  and  its  old- 
fashioned  graveyard,  sank  into  our  hearts.  Surely 
no  one  could  revive  memories  more  sweetly  English 
than  he  who  gave  us  the  Elegy.  wSome  lines,  and  even 
verses  of  that  gem,  will  endure,  it  may  safely  be  pi-e- 
dicted,  as  long  as  anything  English  does,  and  that  is 
saying  much.  We  found  just  such  a  churchyard  as 
seemed  suited  to  the  ode.  Gray  is  fortunate  in  his 
resting-place.  Earth  has  no  prettier,  calmer  spot  to 
give  her  child  than  this.  It  is  the  very  ideal  God's 
acre.  The  little  church  too  is  perfect.  How  fine  is 
Gray's  inscription  upon  his  mother's  tomb  !  I  avoid 
cemeteries  whenever  possible,  but  this  seemed  more 
like  a  place  where  one  revisits  those  he  has  once 
known  than  that  where,  alas  !  he  must  mourn  those 
lost  forever.  -Gray's  voice — the  voice  of  one  that  is 
still,  even  the  touch  of  the  vanished  iumd,  these 
seemed  to  be  found  there,  for  after  our  visit  the  poet 
was  closer  to  me  than  he  had  ever  been  before.  It 
is  not  thus  with  such  as  we  have  known  and  loved  in 
the  flesh — their  graves  let  us  silentl}'  avoid.  He 
whom  you  seek  is  not  here  ;  but  the  great  dead  whom 
we  have  known  only  through  their  souls  do  come 
closer  to  us  as  we  stand  over  their  graves.  The 
flesh  we  have  known  has  become  spiritualized  ;  the 
spirits  we  have  known  become  in  a  measure  materi- 
alized, and  I  felt  I  had  a  firmer  hold  upon  Gray  from 
having  stood  over  his  dust. 

Here  is  the  inscription  he  put  upon   his  mother's 
grave  : 

"  Dorothy  Gray. 

The  careful,  tender  mother  of  many  children,  one  of  whom  alone  had 
the  misfortune  to  survive  her." 


66  OUR   COACHING    TRIP. 

The  touch  in  the  last  words,  "  the  misfortune  to 
survive  her  !" — Carlyle's  words  upon  his  wife's  tomb 
recur  to  me  : 

"  And  he  feels  that  the  light  of  his  life  has  gone  out." 

These  were  men  waihng  for  women.  I  cannot 
beheve  but  that  there  are  many  women  who  would 
prefer  to  share  the  fate  of  men  who  die.  There  is 
such  love  on  earth.  Sujatas  are  not  confined  to 
India.     As  she  says  : 

"  But  if  Death  called  Senani,  I  should  mount 
The  pile  and  lay  that  dear  head  in  my  lap. 
My  daily  way,  rejoicing  when  the  torch 
Lit  the  quick  flame  and  rolled  the  choking  smoke. 
For  it  is  written,  if  an  Indian  wife 
Die  so,  her  love  shall  give  her  husband's  soul 
For  every  hair  upon  her  heid,  a  crore 
Of  years  in  Swerza. " 

I  think  I  know  women  who  would  esteem  it  a 
mercy  to  be  allowed  to  pass  away  with  ///;//,  if  the 
Eternal  had  not  set  his  "  canon  'gainst  self-slaugh- 
ter."    This  prohibition  the  Indian  wots  not  of. 

Upon  Gray's  own  tomb  there  is  inscribed  : 

"  One  morn  I  missed  him  on  the  accustomed  hill, 
Along  the  heath,  and  near  his  favorite  tree  ; 
Another  came,  nor  yet  beside  the  rill, 

Nor  up  the  lawn,  nor  at  the  wood  was  he." 

One  perfect  gem  outweighs  a  thousand  mediocre 
performances  and  makes  its  creator  immortal.  The 
world  has  not  a  second  Gray's  Elegy  among  all  its 
treasures.  Nor  is  it  likel}^  to  have.  We  found  you 
still  in  your  accustomed  place. 

Our   luncheon  was  to   be  upon  the  banks   of  the 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  67. 

Thames  to-da}^  the  old  Swan  Inn,  where  the  stone 
bridge  crosses  the  stream,  being  our  base  of  sup- 
plies ;  but  ere  this  was  reached  what  a  lovely  picture 
was  ours  between  Stoke  Pogis  and  the  Swan  !  All 
that  has  been  sung  or  written  about  the  valley  of 
the  Thames  is  foui\d  to  be  more  than  deserved.  The 
silver  stream  flows  gently  through  the  valley,  the 
fertile  land  rises  gradually  on  both  sides,  enabling 
us  to  get  extensive  views  from  the  top  of  the  coach. 
Our  road  lies  over  tolerably  high  ground  some  dis- 
tance from  the  river.  Such  perfect  quiet,  homelike, 
luxuriant  beauty  is  to  be  seen  nowhere  but  in  Eng- 
land. It  is  not  possible  for  the  elements  to  be  com^ 
bined  to  produce  a  more  pleasing  picture  ;  and  now, 
after  seeing  all  else  between  Brighton  and  Inverness 
that  lay  upon  our  line,  we  return  to  the  region  of 
Streatley  and  Maple  Durham,  and  award  them  the 
palm  as  the  finest  thoroughly  English  landscape. 

We  say  to  the  valley  of  the  Thames  what  the 
Eastern  poet  said  to  the  Vale  of  Cashmere,  which  is 
not  half  so  pretty  : 

"  If  there  be  a  paradise  upon  earth, 
It  is  here,  it  is  here." 

The  old  Swan  proved  to  be,  both  in  structure  and 
location,  a  fit  component  part  of  the  sylvan  scene 
around.  There  ran  the  Thames  in  limpid  purity,  a 
picturesque  stone  bridge  overhanging  it,  and  the 
roadside  inn  within  a  few  3\ards  of  the  grassy  bank. 

The  rugs  were  laid  under  a  chestnut  tree,  and  our 
first  [)icnic  luncheon  spread  on  the  buttercups  and 
daisies.  Swallows  skimmed  the  water,  bees  hummed 
above  us — but  stop  !  listen  !  what's  that,  and  where  ? 


68  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

Our  first  skylark  singing  at  heaven's  gate  !  Davie 
and  Ben  and  Jeannie  and  Alice,  and  all  v^ho  heard 
this  never-to-be-forgotten  song  for  the  first  time  w^ere 
up  and  on  their  feet  in  an  instant  ;  but  the  tiny 
songster  which  was  then  filling  the  azure  vault  with 
music  was  nowhere  to  be  seen.  It's  worth  an  Atlan- 
tic voyage  to  hear  a  skylark  for  the  first  time.  Even 
luncheon  was  neglected  for  a  time,  hungry  as  we 
were,  that  we  might  if  possible  catch  a  glimpse  of 
the  warbler.  The  flood  of  song  poured  forth  as  we 
stood  rapt  awaiting  the  descent  of  the  messenger 
from  heaven.  At  last  a  small  black  speck  came  into 
sight.     He  is  so  little  to  see-^so  great  to  hear  ! 

I  know  three  fine  things  about  the  famous  song- 
ster : 

"In  the  golden  lightning 
Of  the  sunken  sun. 
O'er  which  clouds  are  bright'ning, 
Thou  dost  float  and  run, 
Like  an  unbodied  joy  whose  race  is  just  begun." 

An  "  unbodied  joy"!  that's  a  hit,  surely  ! 

Here  is  Browning  on  the  thrush,  which  I  think 
should  be  to  the  lark  : 

"  He  sings  each  song  twice  over, 

Lest  you  should  think  he  never  could  recapture 
The  first  fine  careless  rapture." 

The  third  is  just  thrown  in  by  the  prodigal  hand 
of  genius  in  a  poem  not  to  a  lark  but  to  a  daisy  : 

"  Alas  !  it's  no  thy  neebor  sweet, 
The  bonnie  lark,  companion  meet, 
Bending  thee  'mang  the  dewy  weet, 

Wi'  speckl'd  breast, 
When  upward  springing,  blithe,  to  greet 
The  purpling  east. " 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  69 

And  now  I  remember  Shakespeare  has  his  say  too 
about  the  lark — what  is  it  in  England  he  has  not  his 
say  about  ?  or  in  all  the  world  for  that  matter  ;  and 
how  much  and  how  many  things  has  he  rendered  it 
the  highest  wisdom  for  man  to  keep  silent  about  after 
he  has  said  his  say,  holding  their  peace  forever. 

A  row  upon  the  silver  Thames  after  luncheon, 
and  we  are  off  again  for  Reading,  where  we  are  to 
rest  over  night  at  the  Queen's.  Reading  has  a 
pretty,  new  park  and  interesting  ruins  within  its 
boundaries  which  we  visited  before  dinner.  A 
pretty  lawn  in  the  rear  of  our  hotel  gave  us  an  op- 
portunity for  a  game  at  lawn  tennis  in  the  twilight 
after  dinner,  and  in  the  morning  we  were  off  for  Ox- 
ford. 

The  editorial  in  the  Reading  paper  that  morning 
upon  emigration  struck  me  as  going  to  the  root  of 
the  matter.    .Here  is  the  concluding  paragraph  : 

"  Already  the  expanding  and  prospering  indus- 
tries of  the  New  World  are  throwing  an  ominous 
shadow  across  the  Old  World  and  are  affecting 
some  ot  its  habits  and  practices.  But  over  and 
above  and  beyond  all  these,  the  free  thought,  the 
liberty  of  action,  the  calm  independence  and  the 
sense  of  the  dignity  of  man  as  man,  and  the  perfect 
equality  of  all  before  the  law  and  in  the  eye  of  the 
constitution  now  existing  in  America,  are  developing 
a  race  of  men  who,  through  correspondence  with 
home  relations,  the  intercourse  of  free  travel,  the 
transaction  of  business,  and  the  free,  outspoken  lan- 
guage of  the  press,  are  gradually  disintegrating  the 
yet  strong  conservative  forces  of  European  society, 
and  thus  preparing  the  downfall  of  tlie  monarchical, 


7°  OUR   COACHING    TRIP. 

aristocratic,  military,  and  ecclesiastic  systems  which 
shackle  and  strangle  the  people  of  the  Old  World. 
These  thoughts  seem  to  me  to  convey  the  meaning 
of  the  great  exodus  now  going  on,  and  he  is  a  wise 
statesman  who  reads  the  lesson  ario-ht. " 

There's  a  man  after  my  own  heart.  He  grasps 
the  subject. 

The  editor  tells  one  of  the  several  causes  of 
the  exodus  which  is  embracing  many  of  the  most 
valuable  citizens  of  the  old  lands  where  class  dis- 
tinctions still  linger.  Man  longs  not  only  to  be  free 
but  to  be  equal,  if  he  has  much  manhood  in  him  ; 
and  that  America  is  the  home  for  such  men,  num- 
bers of  the  best  are  fast  finding  out.  But  Eng^land 
will  soon  march  forward  ;  she  is  not  going  to  rest 
behind  very  long.  There  will  soon  be  no  political 
advantages  here  over  England  for  the  masses. 

Some  of  us  walked  ahead  of  the  coach  for  several 
miles,  and  I  had  a  chat  with  a  man  whom  v/e  met.  He 
was  a  rough  carpenter  and  his  wages  were  sixteen  shil- 
lings per  week  ($4).  A  laborer  gets  eleven  shillings 
(not  $2.75),  but  some  "good  masters"  pay  thirteen 
to  fourteen  shillings  ($3.25  to  $3.50),  and  give  their 
men-four  or  five  pounds  of  beef  at  Christmas.  Food 
is  bacon  and  tea,  which  are  cheap — but  no  beef. 
Men's  wages  have  not  advanced  much  for  many 
years  (I  should  think  not  !),  but  women's  have.  An 
ordinary  woman  for  field  work  can  get  one  shilling 
per  day  (24  cents) ;  a  short  time  ago  ninepence  (18 
cents)  was  the  highest  amount  paid.  Is  it  not  cheering 
to  find  poor  women  getting  an  advance?  But  think 
what  their  condition  still  is,  when  one  shilling  per 
day.  is  considered  good  pay  !     I  asked  whether  em- 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  71 

ployers  did  not  board  the  workers  in  addition  to 
paying-  these  wages,  but  he  assured  me  they  did 
not.  This  is  Southern  England  and  these  are  agri- 
cultural laborers,  but  the  wages  seem  distressingly 
low  even  as  compared  with  British  wages  in  general. 
The  new  system  of  education  and  the  coming  exten- 
sion of  the  suffrage  to  the  counties  will  soon  work  a 
change  among  these  poor  people.  They  will  not 
rest  content  crowding  each  other  down  thus  to  a 
pittance  when  they  can  read  and  write  and  vote. 
Thank  fortune  for  this. 

Our  ladies  were  unusually  gay  in  their  decorations 
to-day,  with  bunches  of  wild  flowers  on  their  breasts 
and  hats  crowned  with  poppies  and  roses.  They 
decked  mother  out  until  she  looked  as  if  she  were 
ready  to  play  Ophelia.  Their  smiles  too  were  as 
pretty  as  their  flowers.  What  an  embodied  joy 
bright,  happy  ladies  are  under  all  conditions,  and 
how  absolutely  essential  for  a  coaching  parfy  !  Was 
it  not  Johnson's  idea  of  happiness  to  drive  in  a  gig 
with  a  pretty  woman  ?  He  wasn't  much  of  a  muff  ! 
If  anything  could  have  kept  him  in  good  humon  this 
would  have  done  it.  If  he  could  have  been  on  top 
of  a  coach  with  a  bevy  of  them,  not  even  he  could 
have  said  a  rude  thing. 

Oxford  was  reached  before  the  sun  went  down. 
Its  towers  were  seen  for  miles— Magdalen,  Baliol, 
Christ  Church,  and  other  familiar  names.  We  cross 
the  pretty  little  Isis,  marvelling  at  every  step,  and 
drive  up  the  High  Street  to  the  Clarendon. 

To-morrow  is  to  be  commencement  day,  and  only 
a  few  rooms  are  to  be  had  in  the  hotel,  but  wc  were 
distributed    very  comfortably  among  houses  in  the 


72  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

neighborhood.  Several  hours  before  dinner  were 
delightfully  spent  in  a  grand  round  of  the  colleges. 
We  peeped  into  the  great  quads,  walked  the  clois- 
ters, and  got  into  all  kinds  of  queer  old-fashioned 
places.  But  the  stroll  along  the  Isis,  and  past  Mag- 
dalen Tower,  and  up  the  long  walk — that  was  the 
grand  finish  !  We  pardon  Wolsey  his  greed  of 
getting,  he  was  so  princely  in  giving.  To  the  man 
who  did  so  much  for  Oxford  much  may  be  forgiven. 


Oxford,  June  21. 

This  morning  was  devoted  to  visiting  the  prin- 
cipal colleges  more  in  detail,  and  also  to  the  ascent 
of  the  tower  of  the  Sheldonian  Theatre,  which  no 
one  should  ever  miss  doing.  Below  us  lay  the  city 
of  palaces,  for  such  it  seems,  palaces  of  the  right 
kind  too — ^not  for  idle  kings  or  princes  to  riot  in, 
and  corrupt  society  by  their  bad  example,  but  for 
those  who  "  scorn  delights  and  live  laborious  days." 

Our  Cambridge  member,  Mr.  Beck,  tells  us  it  does 
not  cost  more  than  i^200  ($1000)  per  annum  for  a  stu- 
dent here.  This  seems  very  cheap.  The  tariff  which 
we  saw  in  one  of  the  halls  gave  us  a  laugh  : 

"  Commons. 
Mutton,   long,    \\d. 
do.       short,  <^d. 
do.       half,      7^." 

The  long  and  the  half  we  could  understand,  but 
how  do  they  manage  the  short  ?  This  must  be  a 
kind  of  medium  portion  for  fellows  whose  appetites 
are  only  so-so.  You  see  how  fine  things  are  cut 
even  in  Oxford.     Our  party  thought  if  the  students 


BRIGH'TON    TO  INVERNESS.  73 

were  coaching  there  would  be  little  occasion  for 
them  to  know  anything  of  either  short  or  half.  At 
least  we  were  all  in  for  long  commons  at  eleven 
pence. 

We  drove  past  the  martyrs'  memorial,  Latimer 
and  Ridley's.  Cranmer  does  not  deserve  to  be  named 
with  them.  A  visit  to  such  a  monument  always 
does  me  good,  for  it  enables  me  to  say  to  those  who 
doubt  the  real  advancement  of  mankind  :  Now  look 
at  this,  and  think  for  what  these  grand  men  were 
burnt  !  Is  it  conceivable  that  good,  sterling  men 
shall  ever  again  be  called  upon  in  England  to  die  for 
opinion's  sake  !  That  Cranmer  wrote  and  advo- 
cated the  right  and  necessity  of  putting  to  death  those 
who  differed  from  him,  and  therefore  that  he  met 
the  fate  he  considered  it  right  to  mete  to  others, 
shows  what  all  parties  held  in  those  dark  days.  I 
claim  tliat  the  world  has  made  a  distinct  and  perma- 
nent advance  in  this  department  wdiich  in  no  revolv- 
ing circle  of  human  affairs  is  ever  to  be  lost.  The 
persecution  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Green,  of  Professor 
Robertson  Smith,  and  of  Bishop  Colenso  in  the  pres- 
ent day  proves,  no  doubt,  that  there  is  much  yet  to 
be  done  ere  we  can  be  very  proud  of  our  progress  ; 
but  these  are  the  worst  of  to-day's  persecutions  and 
could  ocgur  only  in  England  and  Scotland.  There 
is  a  long  gaj)  between  them  and  burning  at  the 
stake  !  Grand  old  Latimer  was  prophetic  when  he 
called  out  to  his  colleague  :  "  Be  of  good  comfort 
and  ])la)'  the  man  ;  we  shall  tliis  day  light  such  a 
candle  by  God's  grace  as  I  trust  shall  never  be  put 
out!" 

I  think  it  certain  that  the  candle  will  never  again 


74  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

be  put  out.  The  bigots  of  to-day  can  only  annoy  in 
Britain.  In  other  English-speaking  communities 
even  that  power  has  passed  away,  and  persecution 
for  opinion's  sake  is  unknown. 

We  left  Oxford  with  just  a  sprinkle  of  rain  fall- 
ing, but  we  had  scarcely  got  fairly  out  of  the  city 
when  it  ceased  and  left  the  charming  landscape  love- 
lier than  ever.  Banbury  Cross  was  our  destination, 
and  on  our  route  lay  magnificent  Blenheim,  the 
estate  given  by  the  nation  to  the  Duke  of  Marlbor- 
ough. See  what  the  nations  do  for  the  most  suc- 
cessful murderers  of  their  fellows  !  and  how  insignif- 
icant have  ever  been  the  rewards  of  those  who  pre- 
serve, improve,  or  discover — for  a  Marlborough  or  a 
Wellington  a  fortune,  for  a  Howard  or  a  Wilberforce 
a  pittance.  It  is  only  in  heathen  China  that  the 
statesman,  the  man  of  letters,  heads  the  list.  No 
military  officer,  however  successful  as  a  destroyer, 
can  ever  reach  the  highest  rank  there,  for  with  them 
the  victories  of  peace  are  more  renowned  than  those 
of  war  ;  that  is  reserved  for  the  men  who  know — the 
Gladstones  and  the  Disraelis,  the  Darwins  and  the 
Huxley s,  the  Arnolds  and  the  Ruskins.  It  is  only  in 
civilized  countries  that  the  first  honors  are  given  to 
butchers. 

Blenheim  is  superb,  grand,  and  broad  enough  to 
satisfy  princely  tastes.  And  that  noble  library  !  As 
we  walked  through  it  we  felt  subdued  as  if  in  the 
presence  of  the  gods  of  ages  past,  for  a  worthy  col- 
lection of  great  books  ever  breathes  forth  the  influ- 
ence of  kings  dead  yet  present,  of 

"  Those  dead  but  sceptred  sovereigns 
Whose  spirits  still  rule  us  from  their  urns." 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  75 

And  to  think  that  this  library,  in  whose  treasures 
we  revelled,  reverently  taking  one  old  tome  after 
another  in  our  hands,  has  since  then  been  sold  by 
auction  I  Degenerate  wretch  !  but  one  descended 
from  Marlborough  can  scarcely  be  called  degen- 
erate. You  may  not  even  be  responsible  for  what 
seems  like  family  dishonor  ;  some  previous  heir  may 
have  rendered  the  sale  necessary  ;  but  the  dispersion 
of  such  treasures  as  these  must  surely  open  the  eyes 
of  good  men  in  England  to  the  folly  of  maintaining 
heredita*ry  rank  and  privilege.  Perhaps,  however, 
the  noble  owner  had  no  more  use  for  his  bopks  than 
the  lord  whose  library  Burns  was  privileged  to  see, 
which  showed  no  evidences  of  usage.  The  bard 
wrote  in  a  volume  of  Shakespeare  he  took  up  : 

"  Through  and  through  the  inspired  leaves, 
Ye  maggots,  make  your  windings  ; 
But  oh  !  respect  his  lordship's  taste 
And  spare  his  golden  bindings." 

With  many  notable  exceptions,  the  aristocracy  of 
Britain  took  its  rise  from  bad  men  who  did  the  dirty 
work  of  miserable  kings,  and  from  women  who  were 
even  worse  than  their  lords.  It  seems  hastening 
to  an  end  in  a  manner  strictly  in  accordance  with 
its  birth.  Even  Englishmen  will  soon  become  satis- 
tied  that  no  man  should  be  born  to  honors,  but  that 
these  should  be  reserved  for  those  who  merit  them. 
But  what  kind  of  fruit  could  be  expected  from  the 
tree  of  privilege  ?  Its  roots  lie  in  injustice,  and  not 
the  least  of  its  evils  are  those  Inflicted  u})on  such 
as  arc  born  under  its  shadow.  The  young  peer  who 
succeeds   in    making  somebody   of   himself  does  so 


76  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

in  spite  of  a  vicious  system,  and  is  entitled  to  infi- 
nite praise  ;  but  though  our  race  is  slow  to  learn, 
the  people  hear  a  wee  bird  singing  these  stirring 
days,  and  they  begin  to  like  the  song.  The  days  of 
rank  are  numbered. 


Banbury,  June  22. 

Banbury  Cross  came  into  sight  about  five  o'clock, 
and  few  of  us  were  so  far  away  in  years  or  feeling 
from  the  days  of  childhood  as  not  to  remem.ber  the 
nursery  rhyme  which  was  repeated  as  we  drbve  past 
the  Cross  ;  but  it  is  an  elaborate  Gothic  cross,  look- 
ing as  new  and  modern  as  if  Gilbert  Scott  had  put 
the  finishing  touches  to  it  but  yesterday,  and  the 
charm  was  gone.  I  like  new  political  institutions  for 
my  native  land,  but  prefer  the  old  historical  struct- 
ures. The  besorn  of  destruction  should  have  spared 
Banbury  Cross.  I  hope  the  old  Cross  has  been  put 
away  in  some  museum  or  other  safe  place  out  of  the 
weather.  We  must  see  about  this  on  our  next 
visit. 

Banbury  has  the  celebrated  works  of  my  friend, 
Mr.  Samuelson,  M.P.  ;  and  before  dinner  I  walked 
out  to  see  them,  and  if  possible  to  learn  something  of 
Mr.  Samuelson's  whereabouts.  Upon  returning  to 
the  hotel  I  found  that  he  was  at  that  moment  occu- 
pying the  sitting-room  adjoining  ours.  We  had  an 
evening's  talk  and  compared  notes  as  brother  manu- 
facturers. If  England  and  America  are  drawing 
more  closely  together  politically,  it  is  also  true  that 
the  manufacturers  of  the  two  countries  have  nearly 
the  same  problems  to  settle.  Mr.  Samuelson  was 
deep   in  railway  discriminations  and   laboring   with 


BRIGHTON   TO  INVERNESS.  77 

a  parliamentary  commission  to  effect  changes,  or 
rather,  as  he  would  put  it,  to  obtain  justice.  I  gave 
him  an  account  of  our  plans,  our  failures,  and  our 
successes,  of  which  he  took  note.  This  much  I  am 
bound,  to  say  for  my  former  colleagues  upon  this  side 
(for  before  I  reformed  I  was  a  railway  manager), 
that  the  manufacturers  of  Britain  have  wronsfs  of 
which  we  know  nothing  here,  though  ours  are  bad 
enough.  I  add  the  last  sentence  lest  Messrs.  Vander 
bilt,  Roberts,  Cassatt,  and  the  Garretts  (father  and 
son),  might  receive  a  wrong  impression  from  the  pre- 
vious admission  ;  for  these  are  the  gentlemen  upon 
whom  our  fortunes  hang. 

Banbury  is  a  ver}^  pretty,  clean,  well-to-do  town, 
and  evidently  prosperous,  but  our  ladies  have  the 
removal  of  the  old  Cross  down  in  their  note-books  as 
a  serious  charge  against  its  reverence  ;  for  what 
makes  Banbury  a  household  word  in  everv  nur- 
sery ? 

There  is  much  discussion  this  morning  as  to  the 
best  route  to  take,  there  is  so  much  to  tempt  us 
on  either  of  several  ways.  Shall  we  go  by  Comp- 
ton  Verney  (there  is  a  pretty  English  name  for 
you),  Wellesbourn,  and  Hastings?  or  shall  we 
take  our  way  through  Brougliton  Castle,  Tadmar- 
ton,  Scoalcliffe,  Compton  Wynyate,  and  Oxhill?  In 
one  way  Wroxton  Abbey,  one  of  the  real  genuine 
baronial  abbeys,  if  one  may  say  so,  and  Kdgchill. 
Surely  no  good  Republican  would  miss  that  !  But  on 
the  other  route  we  shall  sec  the  stronghold  of  Lord 
Saye  and  Sele,  older  yet  than  Wroxton,  and  Comp- 
ton Wynyate,  older  and  finer  than  all — "a  noble 
wreck  in  ruinous  perfection,"  and  a  third  route  still 
6 


78  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

finer  than  either  as  far  as  scenery  is  concerned. 
Such  is  this  treasure  house,  this  crowded  grand  old 
England,  whose  every  mile  boasts  such  attractions  to 
win  our  love. 

"  Look  where  we  ma}',  we  cannot  err 
In  this  delicious  region — change  of  place 
Producing  change  of  beauty — ever  new." 

We  chose  the  first  route,  and  whatever  the 
others  might  have  proved  we  are  satisfied,  for  it  is 
iHianimously  decided  that  in  Wroxton  Abbe}'  we  have 
seen  our  most  interesting  structure.  It  is  early 
English  indeed  !  Blenheim  and  Windsor  are  larger, 
but  not  for  a  dozen  of  either  would  we  exchange  this 
grand  old  abbey.  We  revelled  in  its  quaint  irreg- 
ular chambers.  James  the  First  slept  in  that  bed, 
George  the  Fourth  in  that  ;  this  quilt  is  the  work 
of  Mary  Queen  of  Scots — there  is  her  name  ;  Queen 
Elizabeth  occupied  this  chamber  upon  her  royal 
progress,  and  King  William  this.  Then  the  genuine 
old  pictures,  although  in  this  department  Blenheim 
stands  vmrivalled.  Marlborough  knew  the  adage 
that  "to  the  victor  belongs  the  spoils,"  and  acted 
upon  it  too,  for  he  had  rare  opportunities  abroad 
to  gather  treasures.  But  for  a  realization  of  your 
most  picturesque  ideal  of  a  great  old  English  house, 
betake  yourselves  to  Wroxton  Abbey.  Its  little 
chapel,  rich  in  very  old  oak  carving,  is  in  itself  worth 
a  journey  to  see. 

We  I'.niched  off  deal  tables  and  drank  home- 
brewed ale  in  the  tap-room  of  the  Holcroft  Inn,  a 
queer  old  place,  but  we  had  a  jolly  time  amid  every 
kind  of  thing  that  carried  us  back  to  the  England  of 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  79 

past  centuries.  Beyond  Holcroft  we  came  suddenly 
upon  the  grandest  and  most  extensive  view  by  far 
that  had  yet  rejoiced  us.  We  were  rolling  along 
absorbed  in  deep  admiration  of  the  fertile  land  which 
spread  out  before  us  on  both  sides  of  the  road,  and 
extolling  the  never-ceasing  peacefulness  and  quiet 
charm  of  England,  when,  on  passing  through  a  cut, 
a  wide  and  varied  panorama  lay  stretched  at  our  feet. 
A  dozen  picturesque  villages  and  hamlets  were  in 
sight,  and  by  the  aid  of  our  field-glass  a  dozen  more 
were  brought  within  range.  The  spires  of  the 
churches,  the  poplars,  the  hedgerows,  the  woods,  the 
gently  undulating  land  apparently  giving  forth  its 
luxuriant  harvest  with  such  ease  and  pleasure,  all 
these  made  up  such  a  picture  as  we  could  not  leave. 
We  ordered  the  coach  to  go  on  and  wait  at  the  foot 
of  the  hill  until  we  had  feasted  ourselves  with  the 
view.  We  lay  upon  the  face  of  the  hill  and  gazed 
on  Arcadia  smiling  below.  Very  soon  some  of  the 
neighboring  residents  came,  for  one  is  never  long 
without  human  company  in  crowded  .England  ;  and 
we  found  that  we  were  indeed  upon  sacred  ground. 
This  was  Edgehill.  Shade  of  Cromwell  I  was  it  here 
you  Showed  what  man  can  do  for  a  great  cause  when 
moved  to  take  uj)  arms,  not  for  hire  nor  for  fame, 
but  for  duty,  stern  goddess  !  True  volunteers  versus 
regulars. 

As  sturdy  I^epublicans,  we  lingered  long  upon 
this  spot.  Will  you  lay  "violent  hands  upon  the 
Lord's  anointed?"  "  I'll  anoint  ye  !"  sa3'S  he,  and 
then,  1  take  it,  was  settled  for  the  future  the  "  divine 
right  of  kings"  theor\-  ;  for  since  then  these  curious 
appendages  of  a  free  state  have  been  kept  for  show, 


8o  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

and  we  hear  nothing-  any  more  of  the  "  divuiity  which 
doth  hedge  a  king."  Some  one  of  the  party  re- 
marked that  we  had  not  seen  a  statue  or  even  a  pict- 
ure of  England's  great  Protector.  I  told  them  a  wise 
man  once  said  that  the  reason  Cromwell's  statue  was 
not  put  among  those  of  the  other  rulers  of  England 
at  Westminster  was  because  he  would  dwarf  them. 
But  his  day  is  coming.  We  shall  have  him  there  in 
his  proper  place  by  and  by,  and  how  small  heredi- 
tary rulers  will  seem  beside  him  ! 

Booth  may  not  be  great  in  anything,  as  some 
think,  but  I  do  not  know  his  equal  in  "Richelieu  ;" 
and  in  one  scene  in  particular  he  has  always  seemed 
to  me  at  his  very  best.  The  king  sits  with  his  new 
minister  Baradas  in  attendance  at  his  side.  Riche- 
lieu reclines  upon  a  sofa  exhausted  while  his  secre- 
taries "  deliver  up  the  papers  of  a  realm."  A  secre- 
tary is  on  his  knee  presenting  papers.     He  says  : 

"The  affairs  of  England,  Sire,  most  urgent.     Charles 
The  First  has  lost  a  battle  that  decides 
One  half  his  realm  — craves  moneys.  Sire,  and  succor. 

King.   He  shall  have  both.     Eh,  Baradas  ? 

Baradas.  ,       Yes,  Sire. 

Richelieu.  {Feebly  y  hut  with  great  distinctness.)     My  liege — 
Forgive  me — Charles's  cause  is  lost.     A  man, 
Named  Cromwell,  risen — a  great  man — " 

That  is  enough,  a  great  man  settles  things  ; 
a  small  one  nibbles  away  at  petty  reforms,  although 
he  knows  nothing  is  settled  thereby,  and  that  the 
question  is  onl}'  pushed  ahead  for  the  time  to  break 
out  again  directly.  English  politicians  are  mostly 
nibblers,  though  Gladstone  can  take  a  good  bite 
when  put  to  it.  » 

Our  route   lay  through  Warwick  and   Leaming- 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  8 1 

ton.  Tho  view  of  the  castle  from  the  bridge  is,  I 
believe,  the  best  of  its  kind  in  England.  "  From 
turret  to  foundation  stone"  it  is  all  perfect.  The 
.  very  entrance  tells  of  the  good  old  days.  As  we 
pass  beneath  the  archway,  over  the  drawbridge,  and 
under  the  portcullis,  it  all  comes  back  to  us. 

"  Up  drawbridge,  grooms  !     What,  Warder,  ho  ! 
Let  the  portcullis  fall  I 
To  pass  there  was  such  scanty  room 
The  bars  descending  razed  his  plume." 

Warwick,  the  kingmaker  !  This  was  his  castle. 
His  quarrel  with  the  king  was  one  of  our  most  tak- 
ing recitations.      I  was  considered  great  in  this. 

"  Know  this,  the  man  who  injured  Warwick 
Never  passed  uninjured  yet." 

He  found  that  out,  did  he  not,  my  lord  of  the 
ragged  staff  ! 

The  view  from  the  great  hall  looking  on  the 
river  below  is  fixed  in  my  mind.  Don't  miss  it  ; 
and  surely  he  who  will  climb  to  the  top  of  Guy's 
Tower  will  have  cause  for  thankfulness  for  many  a 
year  thereafter.  You  get  a  look  at  more  of  England 
there  than  is  generally  possible.  1  sympathize  with 
Ruskin  in  his  rage  at  the  attempt  to  raise  funds  by 
subscription  to  mend  the  ravages  of  a  recent  fire  in 
the  castle,  A  Warwick  in  the  role  of  a  Belisarius 
begging  for  an  obolus  !  If  the  kingmaker  could  look 
upon  this  !  But  historical  names  are  now  often 
trailed  in  the  dust  in  England. 

Driving  through  Leamington  we  reached  Kenil- 
worth  Castle  for  luncheon,  to  which  we  had  looked 
forward     for    several    days.     Alas  !  the    keeper    in- 


82  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

formed  us  that  no  pic-nic  parties  are  admitted  since 
the  grounds  have  been  put  into  such  excellent  order 
by  the  kind  Earl  Clarendon  (for  which  thanks,  good 
earl).  But  he  was  a  man  of  some  discrimination, 
this  custodian  of  the  ruins,  and  when  he  saw  our 
four-in-hand  and  learned  who  we  were^Americans  ! 
Brighton  to  Inverness  ! — he  made  us  an  excep- 
tion to  the  rule,  of  which  I  trust  his  lordship  will 
approve,  if  he  ever  hears.  We  had  one  of  our 
happiest  luncheons  beneath  the  walls  under  a  large 
hawthorn  tree,  which  we  decided  was  the  very 
place  where  the  enraged  Queen  Bess  discovered 
dear  Amy  Robsart  on  that  memorable  night. 

A  thousand  memories  cluster  round  this  ruin  ;  but 
what  should  we  have  known  of  it  had  not  the  great 
mao:ician  touched  with  his  wand  this  dead  mass  of 
stone  and  lime  and  conferred  immortality  upon  the 
actors  and  their  revels.  To  do  things  is  not  one  half 
the  battle  in  this  world.  Carlyle  is  all  wrong  about 
this.  To  be  able  to  tell  the  world  what  you  have 
done,  that  is  the  greater  accomplishment  I  Cgesar  is 
the  greatest  man  of  the  sword  because  he  was  in  his 
day  the  greatest  man  of  the  pen.  Had  he  known 
how  to  fight  onl,y,  tradition  would  have  handed 
down  his  name  for  a  few  generations  with  a  tolerably 
correct  account  of  his  achievements  ;  but  now  every 
school-boy  fights  over  again  his  battles  and  sur- 
mounts the  difficulties  he  surmounted,  and  so  his 
fame  goes  on  increasing  forever. 

What  a  man  says  too  often  outlives  what  he 
does,  even  when  he  does  great  things.  General 
Grant's  fame  is  not  to  rest  upon  the  fact  that  he  was 
successful  in  killing  his  fellow-citizens  in  a  civil  war. 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  '    83 

all  traces  of  which  America  wishes  to  obliterate,  but 
upon  the  words  he  said  now  and  then.  His  "  Push 
things  !"  will  influence  Americans  Avhen  Vicksburg 
shall  be  forgotten.  "  I  propose  to  fight  it  out  on 
this,  line"  will  be  part  of  the  language  when  few 
will  remember  when  it  was  spoken  ;  and  "  Let  us 
have  peace"  is  Grant's  most  lasting  monument. 
Truly,  both  the  pen  and  the  tongue  are  mightier 
than  the  sword  ! 

This  day  was  very  warm,  even  for  Americans, 
and  after  luncheon  we  became  a  lazy,  sleepy  party. 
I  have  a  distinct  recollection  of  an  upward  and  then 
a  downward  movement  Avhich  awoke  me  suddenly. 
One  after  another  of  the  party,  caught  asleep  on  a 
rug,  was  treated  to  a  tossing  amid  screams  of  laugh- 
ter. We  were  all  very  drowsy,  but  a  fresh  breeze 
arose  as*  the  sun'declined,  and  remounting  the  coach 
late  in  the  afternoon  we  had  a  charming  drive  to 
Stratford-on-Avon.        

Stratford-on-Avon,  June  23. 
Our  resting-place  was  the  Red  Horse  Inn,  of 
which  Washington  Irving  has  written  so  delightful- 
ly. One  can  hardly  say  that  he  comes  into  Shake- 
speare's country,  for  one  is  always  there,  so  deeply 
and  widely  has  his  influence  reached.  We  live  in 
his  land  always  ;  but,  as  we  approached  the  quiet 
little  village  where  he  appeared  on  earth,  we  could 
not  help  speculating  upon  the  causes  which  pro- 
duced the  prodigy.  Ont  almost  expects  nature  her- 
self to  present  a  different  aspect  to  enable  us  to  ac- 
count in  some  measure  for  the  apparition  of  a  being 
so  far  beyond  all  others  ;  but  it  is   not  so — we  see 


84  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

only  the  quiet  beauty  which  characterizes  almost 
every  part  of  England.  His  sweet  sonnets  seem  the 
natural  outbirth  of  the  land.  Where  met  he  the  ge- 
nius of  tragedy,  think  you  !  Surely  not  on  the  culti- 
vated banks  of  the  gentle  Avon,  where  all  is  so 
tame.  But  as  Shakespeare  resembled  other  burgh- 
ers of  Stratford  so  much,  not  showing  upon  the  sur- 
face that  he  was  that 

"  largest  son  of  time 
Who  wandering  sang  to  a  listening  world," 

our  search  for  external  conditions  as  to  his  environ- 
ment need  not  be  continued.  Ordinary  laws  are  in- 
applicable—he was  a  law  unto  himself.  How  or  why 
Shakespeare  was  Shakespeare  will  be  settled  when 
there  shall  be  few  problems  of  the  race  left  to  settle. 
It  is  well  that  he  lies  on  the  banks  of  the  Avon, 
for  that  requires  us  to  make  a  special  visit  to  his 
shrine  to  worship  him.  His  mighty  shade  alone  fills 
the  mind.  True  monotheists  are  we  all  who  make 
the  pilgrimage  to  Stratford.  I  have  been  there 
often,  but  I  am  always  awed  into  silence  as  I  ap- 
proach the  church  ;  and  when  I  stand  beside  the 
ashes  of  Shakespeare  I  cannot  repress  stern,  gloomy 
thoughts,  and  ask  why  so  potent  a  force  is  now  but  a 
little  dust.  The  inexplicable  waste  of  nature,  a  mill- 
ion born  that  one  may  live,  seems  nothing  compared 
to  this — the  brain  of  a  god  doing  its  work  one  day 
and  food  for  worms  the  next  !  No  wonder,  George 
Eliot,  that  this  was  ever  the  weight  that  lay  upon 
your  heart  and  troubled  you  so  ! 

A  cheery  voice  behind  me.     ' '  What  is  the  matter  ? 
Are  you  ill  ?     You  look  as  if  you  hadn't  a  friend  in 


BRIGHTON    TO   IXVERNESS.  85 

the  world  !"  Thanks,  gentle  remembrancer.  This  is 
no  time  for  the  chief  to  forget  himself.  We  are  not 
out  for  lessons  or  for  moralizing.  Things  are  and 
shall  be  "  altogether  lovel}'."  One  must  often  laugh 
if  one  would  not  cry. 

Here  is  a  funny  conceit.  \  worthy  draper  in  the 
town  has  recently  put  an  upright  stone  at  the  head 
of  his  wife's  grave,  with  an  inscription  setting  forth 
the  dates  of  her  birth  and  death,  and  beneath  it  the 
following  verse  : 

"For  the  Lord  has  done  great  things  for  us, 
whereof  we  are  exceeding  glad." 

The  wretch  !  One  of  the  wives  of  our  party  de- 
clared that  she  could  not  like  a  man  who  could  think 
at  such  a  crisis  of  such  a  verse,  no  matter  how  he 
meant  it.  She  was  confident  that  he  was  one  of 
those  terribly-resigned  kind  of  men  who  will  find  that 
the  Lord  has  done  great  things  for  him  in  the  shape 
of  a  second  helpmeet  within  two  years. 

This  led  to  a  search  for  other  inscriptions.  Here 
is  one  which  struck  our  fancy  : 

"  Under  these  ashes  lies  one  close  confined, 
Who  was  to  all  both  affable  and  kind  ; 
A  neighbor  good,  extensive  to  ye  poor. 
Her  soul  we  hope's  at  rest  forevermore." 

This  was  discussed  and  considered  to  go  rather 
too  far.  Good  Swedcnborgians  still  dispute  about 
the  body's  rising  again,  and  make  a  great  point  of 
that,  as  showing  their  superior  wisdom  ;  but  this 
good  friend  seems  to  bespeak  rest  forever  for  the 
soul.  One  of  us  spoke  of  having  hitcly  seen  a  very 
remarkable  collection   of  passages    from    Scripture 


86  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

Avhich  seemed  to  permit  the  hope  that  all  for  whom 
a  kind  father  has  nothing-  better  in  store  than  per- 
petual torture  will  kindly  be  permitted  to  rest.  One 
of  the  passages  in  question  was  :  "  For  the  wicked 
shall  perish  everlastingly."  The  question  was  re- 
mitted to  the  theologians  of  our  party,  with  instruc- 
tions to  give  it  prayerful  consideration  and  report. 

If  there  be  scriptural  warrant  for  the  belief,  I 
wish  to  embrace  it  at  once.  Meanwhile  I  am  not 
going  to  be  sure  that  any  poor  miserable  sinner  is 
to  be  disturbed  when  after  "  life's  fitful  fever  he 
sleeps  well"  on  the  tender,  forgiving  bosom  of  mother 
earth,  unless  he  can  be  finally  fitted  for  as  good  or 
•a  better  life  than  this.  Therefore,  good  Emma  and 
Ella  and  the  rest  Avho  are  staunch  dogmatists,  be 
very  careful  how  you  report,  for  it  is  a  fearful  thing 
to  charge  our  Creator  unjustly  with  decreeing  ever- 
lastinsf  torture  even  to  the  worst  offender  into  whom 
he  has  breathed  the  breath  of  life.  Refrain,  if  pos- 
sible, 

"  Under  this  conjuration  speak  ; 

For  we  will  hear,  note,  and  believe  in  heart 
That  what  you  speak  is  in  your  conscience  washed 
As  pure  as  sin  with  baptism." 

I  have  not  yet  been  favored  with  the  report  asked 
for,  and  therefore  the  question  rests. 

We  had  one  of  the  loveliest  mornings  imaginable 
for  leaving  Stratford.  Many  had  assembled  to  see 
the  start,  and  our  horn  sounded  several  parting 
blasts  as  we  crossed  the  bridge  and  rode  out  of  the 
town.  Our  destination  was  Coventry,  twenty-two 
miles  away,  and  the  route  lay  through  Charlecote 
Park  and  Hampton  Lucy.    This  was  one  of  the  most 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  87 

perfect  of  all  our  days.  The  deer  in  hundreds  gazed 
on  us  as  we  passed.  There  were  some  noble  stags 
in  the  herd,  the  finest  we  had  seen  in  England,  and 
Charlecote  House  was  the  best  specimen  of  an  Eliza- 
bethan mansion.  It  was  for  poaching  in  this  very 
park  that  Shakespeare  was  fined  by  Squire  Lucy 
(Justice  Shallow).  He  probably  wanted  a  taste  of 
venison  which  was  denied  him.  The  descendant  of 
that  squire,  my  gentle  Shakespeare,  v/ould  give  you 
the  entire  herd  for  another  speech  to  "the  poor 
sequestered  stag,"  which  you  could  dash  off — no, 
you  never  dashed  off  anything;  create  ?  no  ; 
evolved  ?  that's  nearer  it  ;  distilled — there  we  have 
it — distilled  as  the  pearls  of  dew  are  distilled  by 
nature's  sweet  influences  unknown  to  man.  He 
would  exchange  Charlecote  estate,  man,  for  another 
Hamlet  or  Macbeth,  or  Lear  or  Othello,  and  the 
world  would  buy  it  from  him  for  double  the  cost  of 
all  his  broad  acres,  and  esteem  itself  indebted  to  him 
forever.  The  really  precious  things  of  this  world 
are  its  books. 

The  drive  from  Warwick  to  Leaminjjton  is  fa- 
mous,  but  not  comparable  to  that  between  Leaming- 
ton and  Coventry,  Nowhere  else  can  be  found  such 
an  avenue  of  stately  trees  ;  for  many  miles  a  strip 
about  two  hundred  feet  wide  on  both  sides  of  the 
road  is  wooded.  In  passing  through  this  plantation 
man}'  a  time  did  we  bless  the  good,  kind,  thouglitful 
soul  who  generations  ago  laid  i)osterity  under  so 
great  an  obligation.  Dead  and  gone,  his  name 
known  to  the  local  antiquary  and  appreciated  by  a 
lew  of  the  district,  but  never  heard  of  beyond  it. 
"  So  shines  a  good  deed  in  a  naughty  world."     Re- 


88  OUR   COACHING    TRIP. 

ceive  the  warm  thanks  and  God  bless  you  of  pil- 
grims from  a  land,  now  containing  the  majority  of 
the  English-speaking  races,  which  was  not  even  born 
when  you  planted  these  stately  trees.  Americans 
come  to  bless  your  memory  ;  for  what  sa3^s  Sujata  : 

"  For  holy  books  teach  when  a  man  shall  plant 
Trees  for  the  travellers'  shade,  and  dig  a  well 
For  the  folks'  comfort,  and  beget  a  son, 
It  shall  be  good  for  such  after  their  death." 

Who  shall  doubt  that  it  is  well  with  the  dear,  kind 
soul  who  planted  the  thousand  trees  which  de- 
lighted us  this  day,  nodding  their  graceful  boughs 
in  genial  welcome  to  the  strangers  and  forming  a 
triumphal  arch  in  their  honor  ! 


Coventry,  June  24. 
Coventry  in  these  days  has  a  greater  than  Go- 
diva.  George  Eliot  stands  alone  among  women  ; 
no  second  near  that  throne.  We  visited  the  little 
school-room  where  she  learnt  her  first  lessons  ;  but 
more  than  that,  the  Mayor,  who  kindly  conducted 
us  through  the  city,  introduced  us  to  a  man  who 
had  been  her  teacher.  "  I  knew  the  strange  little 
thing  well,"  he  said.  A  proud  privilege  indeed  !  I 
would  have  given  much  to  know  George  Eliot,  for 
many  rfeasons.  I  heard  with  something  akin  to  fel- 
lowship that  she  longed  to  be  at  every  symphon}^ 
oratorio,  or  concert  of  classical  music,  and  rarely 
was  that  strong,  brooding  face  missed  at  such  feasts. 
Indeed  it  was  through  attending  one  of  these  that 
she  caught  the  cold  which  terminated  fatally.  Music 
was  a  passion  with  her,  as  she  found  in  it  calm  and 
peace  for  the  troubled  soul  tossed  and  tried  by  the 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  89 

« 

sad,  sad  things  of  life.  T  understand  this.  A  friend 
told  me  that  a  lady  friend  of  hers,  who  was  staying 
at  the  hotel  in  Florence  where  George  Eliot  was, 
made  her  acquaintance  casually  without  knowing  her 
name.  Something,  she  knew  not  what,  attracted  her 
to  her,  and  after  a  few  days  she  began  sending  flow- 
ers to  the  strange  woman.  Completely  fascinated, 
she  went  almost  daily  for  hours  to  sit  with  her. 
This  continued  for  many  days,  the  lady  using  the 
utmost  freedom,  and  not  without  feehng  that  the  at- 
tention was' pleasing  to  the  queer,  plain,  and  unpre- 
tending Englishwoman.  One  day  she  discovered  by 
chance  who  her  companion  really  was.  Never  be- 
fore, as  she  said,  had  she  felt  such  mortification.  She 
went  timidly  to  George  Eliot's  room  and  took  her 
hand  in  hers,  but  shrank  back  unable  to  speak,  while 
the  tears  rolled  down  her  cheeks.  "  What  is 
wrong?"  was  asked,  and  then  the  explanation  came. 
"I  didn't  know  who  you  were,  I  never  suspected 
it  tuas  j'ou  /"  Then  came  George  Eliot's  turn  to  be 
embarrassed.  "  You  did  not  know  I  was  George 
Eliot,  but  you  were  drawn  to  plain  me  all  for  my 
own  self,  a  woman  ?  I  am  so  happy."  She  kissed 
the  American  lady  tenderly,  and  the  true  friendship 
thus  formed  knew  no  end,  but  ripened  to  the  close. 

The  finest  thing  not  in  her  works  that  I  know 
this  genius  to  have  said  is  this  :  Standing  one  day 
leaning  upon  the  mantel  she  remarked  :  "  I  can  im- 
agine the  coming  of  a  day  when  the  effort  to  relieve 
human  beings  in  distress  will  be  as  involuntary  upon 
the  part  of  the  beholder  as  to  clasp  this  mantel  would 
be  this  moment  on  my  part  were  I  about  to  fall." 
There's  an  ideal  for  yon  I  Chi-ist  might  have  said  that. 


90  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

One  thing  more  about  our  heroine,  and  a  grand 
thing,  said  by  Colonel  IngersoU.  "  In  the  court  of 
her  own  conscience  she  sat  pure  as  light,  stainless  as 
a  star."  I  believe  that,  my  dear  Colonel.  Why 
can  you  not  give  the  world  such  gems  as  you  are 
capable  of,  and  let  us  alone  about  future  things,  con- 
cerning which  you  know  no  more  than  the  new-born 
babe  ? 

There  is  a  good  guide-book  for  Coventry,  and 
there's  much  to  tell  about  that  city.  It  was  once  the 
ecclesiastical  centre  of  England.  Parliaments  have  sat 
there  and  great  things  have  been  done  in  Coventry. 
Many  curious  and  valuable  papers  are  seen  in  the 
hall.  There  is  the  order  of  Queen  Elizabeth  to  her 
truly  and  well-beloved  Mayor  of  Coventry,  direct- 
ing him  to  assist  Earls  Huntingdon  and  Shrewsbury 
in  good  charge  of  Mary  Queen  of  Scots.  There  is 
a  mace  given  by  Cromwell  to  the  corporation.  You 
see  that  ruler  of  men  could  bestow  maces  as  well  as 
order  his  troopers  to  "  take  away  that  bauble"  Avhen 
the  conmionwealth  required  nursing.  These  and 
many  more  rare  treasures  are  kept  in  an  old  build- 
ing which  is  not  fire-proof — a  clear  tempting  of  Prov- 
idence. If  I  ever  become  so  great  a  man  as  a 
councillor  of  Coventry,  my  maiden  speech  shall  be 
upon  the  enormity  of  this  offence.  A  councillor 
who  carried  a  vote  for  a  fire-proof  building  should 
some  day  reach  the  mayorship.  This  is  a  hint  to 
our  friends  there. 

The  land  question  still  troubles  England,  but 
even  in  Elizabeth's  time  it  was  thought  not  unconsti- 
tutional to  fix  rents  arbitrarily.  Here  lies  an  edict 
of  Her  Majesty  good  Queen  Bess,  fixing  the  rates 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERiVESS.  91 

for  pasturage  on  the  commons  near  Coventry  :  "  For 
one  cow  per  week,  one  penny  ;  for  one  horse,  two- 
pence." Our  agriculturists  should  take  this  for  a 
basis,  a  Queen  Elizabeth  valuation  !  I  suppose  some 
expert  or  other  could  figure  the  "fair  rent"  for 
anything,  if  given  this  basis  to  start  upon. 

The  churches  are  very  fine,  the  stained-glass  win- 
dows excelling  in  some  respects  any  we  have  seen, 
the  amount  of  it  is  so  much  greater.  The  entire  end 
of  one  of  the  cathedral  churches  is  filled  by  three 
immense  windows  reaching  from  floor  to  roof,  the 
effect  of  which  is  very  grand.  The  choir  of  this 
church  is  not  in  line  with  the  other  portion  of  the 
building.  In  reply  to  my  inquiry  why  this  was  so, 
the  guide  boldly  assured  us,  with  a  look  of  surprise 
at  our  ignoi'ance,  that  all  cathedrals  are  so  con- 
structed, and  that  the  crooked  choir  symbolizes  the 
head  of  Christ,  which  is  always  represented  leaning 
to  one  side  of  the  cross.  The  idea  made  me  shiver; 
I  felt  as  if  I  should  nev^er  be  able  to  walk  up  the  aisle 
of  a  cathedral  again  without  an  unpleasant  sensation. 
Thanks  to  a  clear-headed,  thorough-going  3-oung 
lady,  who  "just  didn't  believe  it,"  we  soon  got  at 
the  truth  about  cathedrals,  for  she  proved  that  they 
are  everywhere  built  on  straight  lines.  This  guide 
fitly  illustrates  the  danger  of  good  men  staying 
at  home  in  their  little  island,  llis  cathedral  is 
crooked,  and  therefore  all  others  are  or  should  be 
so.  Very  English  this,  \c\~y.  There  are  many 
things  still  crooked  in  the  dear  old  tight  little  isle 
Avhich  other  lands  have  straightened  out  long  ago, 
or  rather  never  built  crooked.  Ilurrv  uj),  3 ou  leader 
of  nations  in  generations  past  I      It's  not  your  role  in 


92  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

the  world  to  lag  behind  ;  at  least  it  has  not  been  till 
lately,  when  others  have  "  bettered  your  instruc- 
tion." Come  along,  England,  you  are  not  done  for  ; 
only  stir  yourself,  and  the  lead  is  still  yours.  The 
guide  was  a  theological  student,  and  therefore  could 
not  be  expected  to  have  much  general  knowledge, 
but  he  surely  should  have  known  something  about 
cathedrals. 

It  rained  at  Coventry  during  breakfast,  and  friend 
Graham  ventured  to  suggest  that  perhaps  some  of 
the  ladies  might  prefer  going  by  rail  to  Birmingham 
and  join  the  coach  there  at  luncheon  ;  but 

"  He  did  not  know  the  stuff 
Of  our  gallent  crew,  so  tough, 
On  board  the  Charioteer  O." 

He  was  "  morally  sat  upon,"  as  Lucy  says.  Not 
a  lady  but  indignantly  repelled  the  suggestion. 
Even  Mrs.  Graham,  a  bride,  and  naturall}^  somewhat 
in  awe  of  her  husband  yet,  went  so  far  as  to  say 
"  Tom  is  queer  this  morning." 

Waterproofs  and  umbrellas  to  the  front,  we  sal- 
lied forth  from  the  courtyard  of  the  Queen's  in  a 
drenching  down-pour. 

"  But  what  care  we  how  wet  we  be, 
By  the  coach  we'll  live  or  die," 

That  was  the  sentiment  which  animated  our 
breasts.  For  my  part  I  w\as  very  favorably  situated, 
and  I  held  my  umbrella  \^ery  low  to  shield  my  fair 
charge  the  better.  Of  course  I  greatly  enjoyed  the 
first  few  miles  under  such  conditions.  My  young 
lady   broke  into  song,  and   I  thought  I  caught  the 


BRTGHTO\-    TO  INVERNESS.  93 

sense  of  the   words,  which    I   fondly   imagined    was 
something  like  this  : 

"  For  if  you  are  under  an  umbrella 
With  a  very  handsome  fellow, 
It  cannot  matter  much  what  the  weather  may  be." 

I  asked  if  I  had  caught  the  words  correctly,  but 
she  archly  insinuated  there  was  something  in  the 
second  line  that  wasn't  quite  correct.  I  think, 
though,  she  was  only  in  fun  ;  the  words  were  quite 
right,  only  her  eyes  seemed  to  wander  in  the  direc- 
tion of  young  Bantock. 

None  of  the  ladies  would  go  inside,  so  Joe  had 
the  compartment  all  to  himself,  and  no  doubt 
smiled  at  the  good  joke  as  we  bowled  along,  Joe 
was  dry  inside,  and  Perry,  though  outside,  was  just 
the  same  ere  wc  found  an  inn.  This  recalled  the  story 
of  the  coachman  and  the  Oxford  Don,  when  the 
latter  expressed  his  sympathy  at  the  condition  of  the 
former  ;  so  sorry  he  was  so  wet.  "  Wouldn't  mind 
being  so  wet,  your  honor,  if  I  weren't  so  dryS'  But 
1  think  Robert  Fitcairn's  story  almost  as  good  as  that. 
A  Don  tried  to  explain  to  the  coachman  the  opera- 
tion of  the  telegraph  as  they  drove  along.  "  They 
take  a  glass  about  the  size  of  an  ordinary  tumbler, 
and  this  they  fill  with  a  liquid  resembling — ah — like 
—ah — "  "  Anything  like  beer,  your  honor,  for  in- 
stance ?"  If  Jehu  didn't  get  his  complimentary  glass 
at  the  next  halt,  that  Don  was  a  muff. 

The  rain  ceased,  as  usual,  befc^-e  wc  had  gone  far, 

and  we  had  a  clear  drv  run  until  hnicheon.      We  see 

the  Black  Coimtry  now,  rows  of  little  dingy  houses 

beyond,  with  tall  smoky  chimneys  vomiting  smoke, 

7 


94  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

mills  and  factories  at  every  turn,  coal  pits  and  roll- 
ing mills  and  blast  furnaces,  the  very  bottomless  pit 
itself  ;  and  such  dirty,  careworn  children,  hard-driven 
men,  and  squalid  women.  To  think  of  the  green 
lanes,  the  larks,  the  Arcadia  we  have  just  left.  How 
can  people  be  got  to  live  such  terrible  lives  as  they 
seem  condemned  to  here  ?  Why  do  they  not  all  run 
away  to  the  green  fields  just  beyond  ?  Prett}'  rural 
Coventry  suburbs  in  the  morning  and  Birmingham 
at  noon  ;  the  lights  and  shadows  of  human  existence 
can  rarely  be  brought  into  sharper  contrast.     If 

"  Better  fifty  years  of  Europe  than  a  cycle  of  Cathay," 

surely  better  a  month  in  Leamington  than  life's  span 
in  the  Black  Country  I  But  do  not  let  us  forget  that 
it  is  just  Pittsburgh  over  again  ;  nay,  not  even  quite 
so  bad,  for  that  city  bears  the  palm  for  dirt  against 
the  world.  The  fact  is,  however,  that  life  in  such 
places  seems  attractive  to  those  born  to  -rural  life, 
and  large  smoky  cities  drain  the  country  ;  but  surely 
this  may  be  safely  attributed  to  necessit3\  With 
freedom  to  choose,  one  would  think  the  rush  would  be 
the  other  way.  The  working  classes  in  England  do 
not  work  so  hard  or  so  unceasingly  as  do  their  fel- 
lows in  America.  They  have  ten  holidays  to  the 
American's  one.  Neither  does  their  climate  entail 
such  a  strain  upon  men  as  ours  does. 

I  remember  after  Vandy  and  I  had  gone  round 
the  world  and  were  walking  Pittsburgh  streets,  we 
decided  that  the  Americans  were  the  saddest-looking 
race  we  had  seen.  Life  is  so  terribly  earnest  here," 
Ambition  spurs  us  all  on,  from  him  who  handles  the 
spade  to   him   who   employs  thousands.     We  know 


BRIGHTON    TO   TVVERNESS.  95 

no  rest.  It  is  different  in  the  older  lands — men  rest 
oftener  and  enjoy  more  of  what  life  has  to  give. 
The  young  Republic  has  some  things  to  teach  the 
parent  land,  but  the  elder  has  an  important  lesson  to 
teach  the  younger  in  this  respect.  In  this  world  we 
must  learn  not  to  lay  up  our  treasures,  but  to  enjoy 
them  day  by  day  as  we  travel  the  path  we  never  re- 
turn to.  If  we  fail  in  this  we  shall  find  when  we 
do  come  to  the  days  of  leisure  that  we  have  lost 
the  taste  for  and  the  capacity  to  enjoy  them.  There 
are  so  many  unfortunates  cursed  with  plenty  to  re- 
tire upon,  but  with  nothing  to  retire  to  !  Sound 
wisdom  that  school-boy  displayed  v/ho  did  not 
"  believe  in  putting  away  for  to-morrow  the  cake 
he  could  eat  to-day."  It  might  not  be  fresh  on 
the  morrow,  or  the  cat  might  steal  it.  The  cat  steals 
many  a  choice  bit  from  Americans  intended  for  the 
morrow.  Among  the  saddest  of  all  spectacles  to  me 
is  that  of  an  elderly  man  occupying  his  last  years 
grasping  for  more  dollars.  "  The  richest  man  in 
America  sailing  suddenly  for  Europe  to  escape  busi- 
ness cares,"  said  a  wise  Scotch  gentleman  to  me,  one 
morning,  as  he  glanced  over  the  Times  at  break- 
fast.    Make  a  note  of  that,  my  enterprising  friends. 

We  spent  the  afternoon  in  Birmingham,  and  en- 
joyed a  great  treat  in  the  Town  Hall,  in  which  there 
is  one  of  the  best  organs  of  the  world.  It  is  })la\c(l 
every  Saturday  by  an  eminent  musician,  admission 
free.  This  is  one  of  the  little — no,  one  of  the  great — 
things  done  for  the  masses  in  many  cities  in  England, 
the  afternoon  of  Saturday  being  kept  as  a  holiday 
everywhere. 

Here  is  the  programme  for  Saturday,  June  25th: 


BY   MR.   STIMPSON. 

From  S  till  4  oclock. 


|)rogrammc  for  func  125,  ISSl  : 

/.    Overture  to  A  -Midsummer  Nighfs  Dream,  Mendelssohn. 

(It  will  only  be  necessary  to  state  this  descriptive  Overture  was 
written  in  Berlin,  August  6,  1826.  Shakespere  and  Mendelssohn 
must  have  been  kindred  spirits,  for  surely  no  more  poetic  in- 
spiration ever  came  from  the  pen  of  any  musical  composer  than 
the  Overture  of  the  great  German  master.) 

2.  Romanza,     -         -         -         -         -         -         -         Haydn. 

(This  charming  Movement  is  taken  from  the  Symphony  which  Haydn 
wrote  in  1786,  for  Paris,  entitled  "  La  Reine  de  France,"  and 
has  been  arranged  for  the  organ  by  Mr.  Best,  of  Liverpool.) 

J.    Ojfertoire,  in  F  major,  -----         Batiste. 

(All  the  works  of  the  French  masters,  Wely,  Batiste,  Guilmant,  and 
Saint-Saens,  if  not  severely  classical,  have  a  certain  grace  and 
charm  which  make  them  acceptable  10  even  the  most  prejudiced 
admirers  of  the  ancient  masters  ;  and  this  Offertoire  of  Batiste 
is  one  of  the  most  popular  of  his  compositions.) 

4.  Fugue  in  G  minor,  -         -         -         -  J-  S.  Bach. 

(It  may  interest  connoisseurs  to  know  this  grand  Fugue  was  selected 
by  the  Umpires  for  the  trial  of  skill  when  the  present  Organist 
of  the  Town  Hall  was  elected.) 

5-  J'^S^^'^'^  {Hunting  Song),  -         -         -  Schumann. 

6.  Selection  from  the  Opera  "  Martha,''         -         -       Flotow. 

(The  Opera  from  which  this  selection  is  taken  was  written  in  Vienna, 
in  1847,  and,  in  conjunction  with  "Stradella,"  at  once  stamped 
the  name  of  the  author  as  one  of  the  most  popular  of  the  dra- 
matic composers  of  the  present  day.) 

7.  Dead  March  in  Saul,     -----      Handel. 


|Jvicc  ©uc  C)alfpcuuij, 

The  next  Free  Organ  Recital  will  be  given  on  July  2d, 

AT  THREE  O'CLOCK. 

K    HISTORY  OF  THE   TOWN   HALL   ORGAN    (a  New  Edition,  Revised  and 
Enlarged),  by  Mr.  STIMPSON, 

Is  now  ready,  and  may  be  had  in  the  Town  Hall,  and  at  the  Midland  Educational 
Co.'s  Warehouse,   New  Street. 

NOTICE.— A  box  will  be  placed  at  each  door  to  receive  contributions,  to 
defray  the  expenses  of  these  Recitals. 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  97 

Miss  Johns  said  she  had  never  before  heard  an 
organ  so  grandly  plaj^ed,  and  she  knows.  The  man- 
agement of  the  left  hand  in  the  fugue  she  declared 
wonderful.  It  is  best  to  give  the  best  for  the  masses, 
even  in  music,  the  highest  of  our  gifts.  John  Bright 
has  made  most  of  his  speeches  in  this  hall,  but  it  is 
no  longer  large  enough  for  the  Liberal  demonstra- 
tions, and  a  much  larger  structure  has  been  erected. 

The  eleven  miles  between  Birmingham  and  "Wol- 
verhampton are  nothing  but  one  vast  iron-work- 
ing, coal-mining  establishment.  There  is  scarcely 
a  blade  of  grass  of  any  kind  to  be  seen,  and  not 
one  real  clean  pure  blade  did  we  observe  during 
the  journey.  It  was  Saturday  afternoon  and  the 
mills  were  all  idle,  and  the  operatives  thronged 
the  villages  through  which  we  drove.  O  mills  and 
furnaces  and  coal-pits  and  all  the  rest  of  you,  you  ma}^ 
be  necessary,  but  you  are  no  bonnie  !  Pittsburghers 
though  many  of  us  were,  inured  to  smoke  and  dirt, 
we  felt  the  change  very  deepl)'  from  the  hedgerows, 
the  green  pastures,  the  wild  flowers  and  pretty  clean 
cottages,  and  voted  the  district  "  horrid."  Wolver- 
hampton's steeples  soon  came  into  sight,  and  we  who 
had  been  there  and  could  conjure  up  dear,  honest, 
kindly  faces  waiting  to  welcome  us  with  warm  hearts, 
were  quite  restored  to  our  usual  spirits, notwithstand- 
ing dirt  and  squalor.  The  sun  of  a  warm  welcome 
from  friends  gives  many  clouds  a  silver  lining,  and  it 
did  make  the  black  country  brighter.  The  coach 
and  horses,  and  Joe  and  Perry,  not  to  mention  our 
generalissimo  Graham,  belong  to  Wolverhampton,  as 
you  know,  and  our  arrival  had  been  looked  for  bv 
man}-.      The  crowd  was  quite  dense  in  the  i)rincipal 


98  OUR   COACHING    TRIP. 

Street  as  we  drove  through.  One  delegation  after 
another  was  left  at  friends'  houses,  the  Charioteers 
having  been  billeted  upon  the  connection  ;  and  here 
far  the  first  time  we  were  to  enjoy  a  respite. 


Wolverhampton,  June  25-30. 

We  were  honored  by  an  entertainment  at  his 
Honor  the  Mayor's.  As  usual  on  fine  days  in  Eng- 
land, the  attractions  of  the  mansion  (and  they  are  not 
small  in  this  case)  gave  place  to  open-air  enjoyments 
on  the  lawn — the  game,  the  race,  the  stroll,  and  all 
the  rest  of  the  sports  which  charm  us  in  this  climate. 
The  race  across  the  lawn  was  far  better  fun  than  the 
Derby,  but  our  gentlemen  must  go  into  strict  train- 
ing before  they  challenge  those  English  girls  again. 
It  is  some  consolation  that  Iroquois  has  since  vindi- 
cated the  glory  of  the.  Republic. 

We  coached  one  day  about  fourteen  miles  to 
Apley  House,  and  had  a  joyous  picnic  day  with  our 
friends  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Sing,  of  Newton.  The  party 
numbered  seventy  odd,  great  and  small.  That  day 
the  Charioteers  agreed  should  be  marked  as  a  red- 
letter  day  in  their  annals,  for  surely  never  was  a 
day's  excursion  productive  of  more  enjoyment  to  all 
of  us.  There  are  few,  if  any,  prettier  views  in  Eng- 
land than  that  from  the  terrace  at  Apley  House. 
The  Vale  of  Severn  deserves  its  reputation.  We 
had  a  trip  on  the  river  for  several  miles  from 
Bridgenorth  to  the  grounds  as  part  of  the  day's 
pleasure. 

How  very  small  England's  great  rivers  are  !  I 
remember  how  deeply  hurt  Mr.  Franks  was  when 
his    Yankee   nephew    (H.    P.   Jr.,  Our  Pard)   visited 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  99 

him  for  the  first  time,  and  was  shown  the  river  by 
his  uncle,  who  loved  it.  "Call  this  a  river?"  ex- 
claimed he,  "  why,  it's  only  a  creek  !  I  could  al- 
most jump  across  it  there" — but  H.  P.  was  young 
then,  and  would  not  have  hesitated  to  "  speak  disre- 
spectfully of  the  equator  "  upon  occasion.  I  won  the 
good  man's  heart  at  once  by  saying  that  small  though 
it  was  in  size  (and  what  has  either  he  or  I  to  boast 
of  in  that  line,  I  wonder),  little  Severn  filled  a  larger 
space  in  the  world's  destiny  and  the  world's 
thoughts  than  twenty  mighty  streams.     Listen  : 

"  Three  times  they  breathed  and  three  times  did  they  drink, 
Upon  agreement  of  swift  Severn's  flood, 
Who  then,  affrighted  with  their  bloody  looks, 
Ran  fearfully  among  the  trembling  reeds 
And  hid  his  crisp  head  in  the  hollow  bank, 
Blood-stained  with  these  violent  combatants." 

Wh}^  you  have  hot  a  river  like  that  in  all  Amer- 
ica. H.  P,  was  judiciously  silent.  But  I  do  not 
think  he  was  ever  quite  forgiven.  These  Americans 
have  always  such  big  ideas. 

The  free  library  at  Wolverhampton  interested 
me.  T  do  not  know  where  better  proof  of  the  ad- 
vantages of  such  an  institution  is  to  be  found.  It  was 
started  upon  a  small  scale,  about  fifteen  thousand 
dollars  being  expended  ;  now  some  forty  thousand 
dollars  have  been  spent  iqion  the  building.  Last 
year  eighty-six  thousand  books  were  issued.  I 
counted  at  noon,  June  30th,  sixty-three  persons  in 
the  reading-room,  and  at  another  time  nearl}^  two 
hundred  readers.  On  Saturdays,  between  two  and 
ten  r.  M.,  the  number  averages  fully  a  thousand.  In 
addition  to  the  circulating  library,  there  are  a  refer- 


TOO  OUR   COACHING    TRIP. 

ence  library,  a  museum,  and  large  reading-rooms. 
Several  courses  of  lectures  are  connected  with  the 
institution,  with  teachers  for  the  various  branches. 
One  teacher,  a  Mr.  Williams,  has  "  passed  "  scholars 
in  the  science  and  art  department  every  year,  and 
one  year  every  one  of  his  scholars  passed  the  Ken- 
sington examination.  A  working  plumber  who  at- 
tended these  classes  gained  prizes  for  chemistry  and 
electricit}^  and  is  now  secretary  of  the  water-works 
at  Chepstow.  We  may  hear  more  of  that  climber 
3'et.  Plenty  of  room  at  the  top  !  No  sectarian 
papers  are  subscribed  for,  but  all  reputable  publica- 
tions are  received  if  sent.  In  this  way  all  sects  are 
represented  by  their  best,  if  the  members  see  fit  to 
contribute  them.  This  is  the  true  plan.  "  Error 
may  be  tolerated  if  truth  be  free  to  combat  it.  Let 
truth  and  error  grapple."  The  city  levies  one  penny 
per  pound  upon  the  rates,  as  authorized  by  the 
libraries  act.  This  nets  about  four  thousand  dollars 
per  annum.  Just  see  what  powerful  agencies  for 
the  improvement  of  the  people  can  be  set  on  foot  for 
a  trifling  sum. 

Wolverhampton  is  a  go-ahead  city  (I  note  a 
strong  Scotch  element  there).  A  fine  park  has  re- 
cently been  acquired  and  laid  out  with  taste.  This 
show's  that  the  physical  well-being  of  the  people  is 
not  lost  sight  of.  The  administration  of  our  friend 
ex-Mayor  Dickinson  is  to  be  credited  with  this  in- 
valuable acquisition.  Mr.  Dickinson  took  the  most 
prominent  part  in  the  matter,  and  having  succeeded 
he  can  consider  the  park  his  own  estate.  It  is  not  in 
any  sense  taken  away  from  him,  nor  one  of  its  charms 
lessened  because  his   fellow-citizens  share  its  bless- 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  lOl 

ings.  Indeed  as  I  strolled  through  it  with  him  I 
thought  the  real  sense  of  ownership  must  be  sweeter 
from  the  thousands  of  his  fellows  whom  we  saw  re- 
joicing within  it  than  if  he  were  indeed  the  lordly 
owner  in  fee  and  rented  it  for  revenue.  This  whole 
subject  of  meum  and  tuum  needs  reconsideration. 
If  Burns,  when  he  held  his  plough  in  joy  upon  the 
mountain-side  and  saw  what  he  saw,  felt  what  he 
felt,  was  not  more  truly  the  real  possessor  of  the 
land  than  the  reputed  nominal  landlord,  then  I  do 
not  grasp  the  subject.  There  are  woeful  blunders 
made  as  to  the  ownership  of  things.  Who  owns  the 
treasures  of  the  Sunderland  or  Hamilton  libraries? 
and  who  will  shed  the  tears  over  their  dispersion 
think  you,  chief  mourner  by  Virtue  of  deepest  loss, 
the  titled  dis-graces,  in  whose  names  they  stand,  or 
the  learned  librarian  whose  days  have  been  spent  in 
holy  companionship  with  them  ?  It  is  he  who  has 
made  them  his  own,  drawn  them  from  their  miser- 
able owners  into  his  heart.  I  tell  3^ou  a  man  can- 
not be  the  real  owner  of  a  library  or  a  picture  gal- 
lery without  a  title  from  a  much  higher  tribunal  than 
the  law.  Nor  a  horse  either,  for  that  matter.  Who 
owns  your  favorite  horse  ?  Test  it  !  I  say  the 
groom  does.  Call  Habeeb  or  Roderick.  So  slow 
their  response  !  I  won't  admit  the}'  don't  know  and 
like  me  too.  John  knows  my  weakness  and  stands, 
out  of  sight  and  lets  me  succeed  slowly  with  them  ; 
but  after  that,  see  at  one  word  from  him  how  they 
prick  up  their  ears  and  neigh,  dance  in  their  boxes, 
push  their  grand  heads  under  his  arm,  and  say  as 
plainly  as  can  be,  "  This  is  our  man."  I'm  only  a 
sleeping  partner  with  Jolin  in  them  after  all.      It's  the 


I02  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

same  all  through  ;  go  to  your  dogs,  or  out  to  your 
tiocks,  and  see  every  sheep,  and  even  thehttle  lambs, 
the  cows  with  their  kind, glowering  eyes, the  chickens, 
and  every  living  thing  run  from  you  to  throng  round 
the  hand  that  feeds  them.  There  is  no  real  purchase 
in  money,  you  must  win  friendship  and  ownership  in 
the  lower  range  of  life  with  kindness,  companionship, 
love  ;  the  coin  of  the  realm  is  not  legal  tender  with 
Trust,  or  Habeeb,  or  Brownie,  nor  with  any  of  the 
tribe. 

We  can  tell  you  nothing  of  the  hotels  of  Wolver- 
hampton, but  the  fourteen  of  us  can  highly  recom- 
mend certain  quarters  where  it  was  our  rare  privi- 
lege to  be  honored  guests.  Whether  the  English 
eat  and  drink  more  than  the  Americans  may  be  a 
debatable  question,  but  they  certainly  do  so  oftener. 
The  young  ladies  quartered  at  Newbridge  reported 
this  the  only  bar  to  perfect  happiness  ;  they  never 
wanted  to  leave  the  garden  for  meals  nor  to  remain 
so  long  at  table.  As  Miss  Jeannie  reported,  they 
just  sound  a  gong  and  spring  luncheons  and  teas  and 
suppers  on  you.  The  supper  is  an  English  institu- 
tion, even  more  sacred  than  the  throne,  and  destined 
to  outlive  it.  You  cannot  escape  it,  and  to  tell  the 
truth,  after  a  little  you  have  no  wish  to  do  so. 
There  is  much  enjoyment  at  supper,  and  in  Scotland 
this  is  the  toddy-time,  and  who  \vould  miss  that  hour 
of  social  glee  ! 

Mention  must  be  made  of  the  private  theatricals 
at  Merridale  and  of  the  amateur  concert  at  Clifton 
House,  both  highly  creditable  to  the  talented  per- 
formers and  productive  of  great  pleasure  to  the 
guests.  I  find  a  programme  of  the  latter  and  incor- 
porate it  as  part  of  the  record  : 


©Uftoii  iijousc,  3lOoIbci1)am})ton, 


JUNE  29tu,  1881. 


-^P^061^^j8ipE-l-OF-fJllUgIC« 


Pianoforte  Duet       ..         "Oberon"         ..         ..      Rene  Favayer 
Misses  A.  J.  aud  A.   C.  BANTOCK. 


Song 
Song 

Ladies'  Trio 
Song 


"  Twenty-one  "     .  . 
Miss  SUSIE  DICKINSON. 

"The  Iliifi"       .. 
Mr.  BANTOCK  PIERPOINT. 

.  .      "  O  Skylark,  for  thy  wing:  " 
Misses  BANTOCK  and  DICKINSON. 

"A  Summer  Shower  " 
Miss  DICKINSON. 


Song 
Song 

Pianoforte  Solo 
Song 

Song 
Song 
Duet 


"The  Better  Land" 
Miss  M.  BANTOCK. 

.      'fThe  Lost  Cliord" 
Miss  PIERPOINT. 

.  .      "  La  Ciiscad(!"     .  . 
Miss  ALICE  DICKINSON. 

"  Let  me  dream  apain  " 
Miss  REID. 

..       "The  Diver"       .. 
Mr.  ARTHUR  BANTOCK. 

"Mv  Nannie's  awa'  " 
Miss  JEANNIE  JOHNS. 

When  the  Wind  blows  in    from  the  Sea"    . 


Molloy 

Piiisuti 

Smart 

Marziales 

Cowen 

Sidlivan 

Pmier 

Sullivan 

Loder 


Smart 


Miss  M.  BAiNTOCK  and  Mr.  BANTOCK  PIERPOINT. 
Song         .  .  . .         "  For  ever  and  foi'  ever  "        . .  Paolo  Toiti 


Song 


"  For  ever  and  foi'  ever  " 
Miss  A.  J.  BA.NTOCK. 

"  Tlie  Boatswain's  Storv  " 
Mr.   BANTOCK  PI KR POINT. 

— -*tan— - 

GOD    SAVE   THE    QUEEN. 


Molloy 


I04  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

A  great  many  fine  compliments  have  been  paid  to 
performers  in  this  world,  but  do  you  remember  one 
much  better  than  this  ?  Our  Miss  Jeannie  sang  "  My 
Nannie's  awa',"  my  favorite  among  twenty  favor- 
ites ;  and  she  did  sing  it  that  night  to  perfection. 
We  were  all  proud  of  our  prima  donna.  When  she 
returned  to  her  seat  next  to  Maggie,  there  was  whis- 
pered in  her  ear  :  "  Oh,  Jeannie,  the  lump's  in  my 
throat  yet  !"  All  the  hundred  warm  expressions 
bestowed  upon  her  did  not  weigh  as  much  as  that 
little  gem  of  a  tribute.  When  you  raise  the  lump  in 
the  throat  b}^  a  song  you  are  upon  the  right  key  and 
have  the  proper  style,  even  if  your  teacher  has  been 
no  other  than  your  own  heart,  the  most  important 
teacher  of  all. 

After  the  theatricals  at  Merridale  came  the  feast. 
The  supper-table  comes  before  me,  and  the  speeches. 
The  orator  of  the  Wolverhampton  connection  is  ex- 
Mayor  Bantock.  He  speaks  well,  and  never  did  he 
appear  to  greater  advantage  than  on  that  evening. 
It's  a  sight  "  gude  for  sair  een"  to  see  a  good- 
natured,  kindly  English  gentleman  presiding  at  the 
festive  board,  surrounded  by  his  children  and  his 
children's  children,  and  the  family  connections  to  the 
number  of  seventy  odd.  They  are  indeed  a  kindly 
people,  but  oh  dear  !  those  who  have  never  been  out 
of  their  little  island,  even  the  mc^st  liberal  of  them, 
have  such  queer,  restricted  notions  about  the  rest  of 
mankind  !  This,  however,  is  only  natural  ;  travel  is 
in  one  sense  the  only  possible  educator.  The  best 
speech  of  the  evening  upon  our  side  was  made  by 
Mr.  Phipps,  who  said  he  felt  that  after  he  had  for- 
gotten all  else  about  this  visit,  the  smiling  faces  of 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  105 

the  pretty,  rosy-cheeked  English  young  ladies  he 
had  been  admiring  ever  since  he  came  to  Wolver- 
hampton, and  never  more  ardently  than  this  evening, 
would  still  haunt  his  thoughts  ;  and  then,  with  more 
emphasis,  he  closed  with  these  memorable  words  : 
"  And  1  tell  you,  if  ever  young  men  ask  me  where 
they  can  find  the  nicest,  sweetest,  prettiest,  and  best 
young  ladies  for  wives,  they  won't  have  to  ask 
twice."     (Correct  !  shake,    Pard  !) 

We  were  fortunate  in  seeing  the  statue  to  Mr, 
Villiers  unveiled.  Earl  Granville  spoke  with  rare 
grace  and  ease,  his  style  being  so  far  beyond  that 
of  the  other  speakers  that  they  suffered  by  compari- 
son. The  sledge-hammer  style  of  orator}^  is  done. 
Let  ambitious  youngsters  make  a  note  of  that,  and 
no  longer  strut  and  bellow,  and  tear  a  passion  all  to 
tatters,  to  very  rags.      Shakespeare  understood  it  : 

"  In  the  very  tempest  and  I  may  say  whirlwind  of  your  passion. 
You  must  beget  a  temperance  to  give  it  utterance."' 

The  effort  now  making  throughout  Great  Britain 
to  provide  coffee-houses  as  substitutes  for  the  numer- 
ous gin  palaces  has  not  been  neglected  in  Wolver- 
hampton. The  Coffee  House  Company  which  oper- 
ates in  the  city  and  neighborhood  has  now  fourteen 
houses  in  successful  operation,  and,  much  to  my  as- 
tonishment and  gratification,  I  learned  that  seven  and 
a  half  per  cent  dividends  were  declared  and  about 
an  equal  amount  of  profit  reserved  for  contingen- 
cies. In  Birmingham  there  are  twenty  houses,  and 
cash  dividends  of  ten  per  cent  per  annum  have  been 
made.  If  they  can  be  general! \'  made  to  pay  even 
half  as  well,  a  grand  advance  has  been   made   in  the 


io6  OUR    COA'CHING    TRIP. 

war  against  intemperance.  I  visited  one  of  the 
houses  with  Mr.  Dickinson,  who,  I  rejoice  to  say,  is 
Chairman  of  the  Company,  and  in  this  great  office 
does  more  for  the  cause  than  a  thousand  loud- 
mouthed orators  who  only  denounce  the  evil  about 
which  we  are  all  agreed,  but  have  no  plan  to  suggest 
for  overcoming  it.  It  is  so  easy  to  denounce  and  tear 
down  ;  but  try  to  build  up  once  and  see  what  slow, 
discouraging  labor  is  involved. 

The  prices  in  these  coffee-houses  are  very  low  : 
one  large  cup  of  good  tea,  coffee,  or  cocoa,  at  the 
counter,  \d  (2  cents)  ;  one  sandwich,  id  (2  cents).  If 
taken  upstairs  in  a  room  at  a  table,  one  half  more. 

There  is  a  reading-room  with  newspapers  free, 
bagatelle-table,  and  comfortable  sitting-rooms  ;  also 
a  ladies'  room  and  a  lavatory,  and  cigars,  tobacco, 
and  all  non-alcohohc  drinks  are  provided.  Men  go 
there  at  night  to  read  and  to  play  games.  The 
company  has  been  operating  for  three  years,  and  the 
business  increases  steadily.  We  saw  similar  houses 
in  most  of  the  towns  we  passed,  and  wished  them 
God-speed.^ 

A  chairman  of  a  company  like  this  has  it  in  his 
power  to  do  more  good  for  the  masses,  who  are  the 
people  of  England,  than  if  he  occupied  his  time  as 
member  of  Parliament  ;  but  the  English  exalt  poli- 
tics unduly  and  waste  the  lives  of  their  best  men 
disputing  over  problems  which  the  more  advanced 
Republicans  have  settled  long  ago  and  cleared  out  of 
their  way.  They  will  learn  better  by  and  by.  We 
must  not  be  impatient.  They  are  a  slow  race  and 
prone  to  makeshifts  politically. 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  107 

"  Nae  man  can  tether  time  nor  tide. 

The  hour  approaches,  Tam  must  [let  us]  ride." 

Our  six  days  at  Wolverhampton  had  passed  rap- 
idly away  in  one  continual  round  ol  social  pleasures, 
and  now  we  were  off  again  to  fresh  fields  and  pas- 
tures new.  The  horn  sounds.  We  call  the  roll 
once  more.  Mr.  Beck  Senior  had  left  us  at  Wind- 
sor, but  the  Junior  Beck  he  sent  us  fitly  represented 
the  family.  If  he  couldn't  tell  as  many  funny  stories 
nor  quote  as  much  poetry  as  his  sire,  the  young  Cam- 
bridge wrangler  could  sing  college  songs  and  give 
our  young  ladies  many  glimpses  of  young  England. 
He  was  a  great  favorite  was  Theodore  (young 
Obadiah). 

Miss  Beck  and  he  left  us  at  Banbury,  much  to  our 
regret,  but  London  engagements  were  imperative. 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  King  arrived.  If  ever  a  couple  re- 
ceived a  warmer  welcome  I  never  saw  or  heard  of 
it.  It  seemed  as  if  we  had  been  separated  for  years, 
and  how  often  during  our  journey  had  one  or  another 
of  the  party  regretted  that  Aggie  and  .\alcck  were 
missing  all  this. 

It  was  upon  the  ocean  that  Ben  and  Davie  con- 
ceived the  idea  that  a  run  to  Paris  would  be  advis- 
able. Leave  of  absence  for  two  weeks  was  accord- 
ingly granted  to  four — Mr.  and  Mrs.  McCargo, 
Miss  Johns,  and  Mr.  Vandevort. 

We  bade  them  good-bye  at  Wolverhampton, 
Thursday,  June  30th,  and  saw  them  fairly  off,  not 
without  tears  upon  both  sides  from  the  weaker  sex. 
These  partings  are  miserable  things  always.  Their 
places  were  taken  by  Miss  Jeannie  Reid  (a  Dunferm- 
line bairn),   Miss  Amelia  Bantock,  and  Mr.  Dickin- 


io8  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

son.  Next  morning  we  gathered  the  clans  at  Mr. 
Graham's,  calling  at  Mr.  Ben  Bantock's  and  at  Mr. 
Thomas's  for  the  contingent  they  had  so  kindly 
entertained  ;  thence  to  Mr.  Dickinson's,  and  then  to 
Merridale  for  the  remainder  and  the  final  start. 

It  was  a  sight  to  see  the  party  on  the  lawn  there' 
as  we  drove  off,  giving  three  heartv  cheers  for 
Wolverhampton.  In  special  honor  of  the  head  of 
the  clan  there,  the  master  of  Merridale,  we  had  just 
sung  "  For  he  is  an  Englishman."  Yes,  he  is  the 
Englishman  all  over.  Mr.  Graham,  no  longer  in  his 
official  capacity,  however,  drove  out  with  Mr.  Wil- 
son several  miles  and  saw  us  fairly  off.  The  parting 
was  a  sad  one.  How  we  were  to  get  on  without  our 
late  general  manager  was  a  source  of  anxiety,  but 
Mr.  McCandless  soon  proved  that  he  was  a  worthy 
successor,  and  from  that  parting  till  our  arrival  in 
New  York  his  laurels  increased.  Our  route  for 
many  miles  was  still  in  the  black  country,  but  near 
Lichfield  we  reached  once  more  the  rural  beauties  of 
England.  How  thankful  to  get  away  once  more 
from  the  dirt  and  smoke  and  bustle  of  manufactories. 
'  The  new  members  had  not  gone  far  before  they 
exhibited  in  an  aggravated  form  all  the  usual  signs 
of  the  mania  which  had  attacked  and  so  seriously 
affected  all  who  have  ever  mounted  our  coach.  The 
older  members  derived  great  pleasure  from  seeing 
how  completely  the  recent  acquisitions  were  carried 
away.  Their  enthusiasm  knew  no  bounds,  and  we 
drove  into  the  Swan  at  Lichfield  brimful  of  happi- 
ness. We  had  left  Wolverhampton  about  noon, 
the  stage  for  the  day  being  a  short  one,  only 
twenty  miles. 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  109 

Lichfield,  July  t. 

The  cathedral  deserves  a  visit,  out  of  the  way  of 
travel  as  it  is.  Its  three  spires  and  its  chapter  house 
are  the  finest  we  have  yet  seen  ;  and  then  Chan- 
trey's  sleeping  children  is  worth  travelling  hundreds 
of  miles  to  see.  Never  before  has  marble  been 
made  to  express  the  childish  sleep  of  innocence  as 
this  does. 

It  was  strange  that  I  should  stumble  upon  a 
monument  in  the  cathedral  to  Major  Hodson,  whose 
grave  I  had  visited  in  India.  He  lies  with  Have- 
lock  in  the  pretty  little  English  cemetery  at  Luck- 
now,  poor  fellow,  and  here  his  friends  and  neighbors 
away  in  quiet  Lichfield  have  commemorated  his 
valor. 

There  are  in  the  cathedral  seven  very  fine  stained- 
glass  windows  which  were  found  stowed  away  in  a 
farm-house  in  Belgium,  and  purchased  by  an  Eng- 
lish gentleman  for  ^200,  and  now  they  rank  among 
the  most  valuable  windows  in  the  world.  What  a 
pity  that  the  treasures  wantonly  destroyed  during 
the  Reformation  had  not  found  similar  shelter,  to  be 
brought  from  their  hiding-places  once  more  to  de- 
light us. 

•  We  heard  service  Saturdav  morning,  and 
mourned  over  the  waste  of  exquisite  music — twenty- 
six  singers  in  the  choir  and  only  ten  persons  to  lis- 
ten in  the  vast  cathedral,  besides  our  party.  It  is 
much  the  same  throui^hout  Euirland.  In  no  case 
during  week  days  did  we  ever  see  as  many  persons 
in  the  congregation  as  in  the  choir.  Surely  the  im- 
pressive cathedrals  of  England  are  capable  of  being 
put  to  greater  uses  than  this.  It  seems  a  sin  to  have 
8 


no  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

such  choirs  and  not  conduct  them  in  some  way  to 
reach  and  elevate  greater  numbers.  In  no  building 
would  an  oratorio  sound  so  well.  AVhy  should  not 
these  choirs  be  made  the  nucleus  for  a  chorus  in 
every  district,  and  let  us  have  music  which  would 
draw  the  masses  within  the  sacred  walls?  But  ma}'- 
be  this  would  be  sacrilegious.  The  theological  mind 
may  see  in  the  music  suggested  an  unworthy  in- 
truder in  domains  sacred  to  dogma.  Some  day, 
however,  my  lord  bishop  and  lazy  crew,  the  cathe- 
drals of  England  will  not  be  yours  alone  to  drone  in, 
but  become  mighty  centres  of  grand  music,  from 
Avhich  shall  radiate  elevating  influences  over  entire 
districts,  and  the  best  minds  of  the  nation,  remember- 
ing how  narrow  and  bigoted  the  church  was  when 
these  structures  were  built,  will  change  the  poet's 
line  and  say  : 

"  To  what  great  uses  have  the}'  come  at  last !" 

The  world  moves  and  the  church  establishment 
must  move  with  it,  or-^this  is  a  splendid  place  to 
stop — there  is  as  great  virtue  in  your  '  'or' '  as  in  your 
"  if,"  sometimes.  Here  is  the  best  description  of 
service  in  an  English  cathedral  : 

• 

"  And  love  the  high  embowered  roof, 
V/ith  antic  pillars  massy  proof, 
And  storied  windows  richly  dight. 
Casting  a  dim  religious  light  : 
There  let  the  pealing  organ  blow, 
To  the  full  voic'd  choir  below, 
In  service  high,  and  anthems  clear, 
As  may  with  sweetness,  through  my  ear. 
Dissolve  me  into  ecstasies, 
And  bring  all  heav'n  before  mine  eyes." 


BRIGHTON   TO   INVERNESS.  iii 

The  music  at  Lichfield  does  indeed  draw  )'0u 
into  regions  beyond  and  intimates  immortality,  and 
we  exclaim  with  friend  Izaak  Walton,  "  Lord,  what 
music  hast  thou  provided  for  the  saints  in  heaven, 
when  thou  affordest  bad  men  such  music  on  earth  !" 

I  remember  that  when  in  China  I  read  that  Con- 
fucius was  noted  for  his  intense  passion  for  music. 
He  said  one  day  to  his  disciples  that  music  not  only 
elevates  man  while  he  is  listening  to  it,  but  that  to 
those  who  love  it  it  is  able  to  create  distinct  images 
which  remain  after  the  strains  cease  and  keep  the 
mind  from  base  thoughts.  Think  of  the  sage  know- 
ing this  when  he  had  probably  only  the  sing-song 
Chinese  fiddle  to  console  him  !  I  forofet,  he  had 
the  gongs,  and  a  set  of  fine  gongs  of  different  tones 
make  most  suggestive  music,  as  I  have  discovered. 

The  position  of  Lichfield  Cathedral  is  peculiarly 
fine.  Three  sides  of  the  square  surrounding  it  are 
occupied  by  fine  ecclesiastical  buildings  connected 
with  the  diocese,  including  the  bishop's  palace.  A 
beautiful  sheet  of  water  lies  upon  the  lower  side,  so 
that  nothing  incongruous  meets  the  eye. 

We  obtained  there  a  better  idea  of  the  magnitude 
of  the  church  establishment  and  its  to  us  seeminirly 
criminal  waste  of  riches  than  ever  before.  To  think 
of  all  this  power  for  good  wasting  itself  up(Mi  a  beg- 
garly account  of  empty  benches,  the  choir  outnum- 
bering the  conofrciration  I 

We  had  oi'dered  the  coach  to  come  and  await  us 
at  tiie  cathedral,  but  had  not  expected  I'erry  to  drive 
up  to  the  very  door.  There  the  glittering  equipage 
was,  however,  surrounded  by  groups  of  pretty,  rosy 
children  and  many  older  people  gazing  respectfully. 


112  OUR   COACHING    TRIP. 

We  mounted  and  drove  off,  taking  a  last  lond  look  of 
grand  old  Lichfield. 


DOVEDALE,  Jul)-  2-3. 

Our  objective  point  was  Dovedale,  thirty  miles 
distant.  When  three  miles  out  vve  stopped  at  Elm- 
hurst  Hall  for  Miss  French,  who  had  preceded  us 
to  pay  a  visit  to  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Fox,  who  ver}-  kindl}' 
inyited  the  party  to  dismount  and  lunch  with  them  ; 
but  the  thirty  miles  to  be  done  would  not  permit  us 
the  pleasure.  The  next  time  we  pass,  however,  good 
master  and  mistress  of  Elmhurst  Hall,  3'ou  shall 
certainly  have  the  Charioteers  within  your  hospit- 
able walls,  if  you  desire  it,  for  such  an  inviting  place 
we  have  rarel}'  seen.  Miss  French  remained  with 
them  over  Sunda}'  and  joined  us  at  Rowsley  on 
Monday. 

We  were  to  lunch  in  Sudbury  Park,  the  residence 
of  Lord  Vernon.  This  was  the  first  grassy  luncheon 
of  the  live  new-comers,  and  we  were  all  delighted  to 
see  their  enjoyment  of  this  most  Arcadian  feature  of 
our  coaching  life.  It  proved  to  be  one  of  our  pleas- 
antest  luncheons,  for  there  is  no  finer  spot  in  England 
than  Sudbury  Park.  Of  course  it  is  not  the  glen  nor 
the  wimpling  burn  of  the  Highlands,  but  for  quiet 
England  it  is  superb. 

The  site  chosen  was  near  a  pretty  brook.  Before 
us  was  the  old-fashioned  brick  Queen  Anne  mansion, 
and  behind  us  in  the  park  was  a  cricket  ground, 
where  a  match  between  two  neighboring  clubs  was 
being  worthily  contested.  The  scene  was  indeed 
idyllic.  There  was  never  more  fun  and  laughter  at 
any  of  our  luncheons.     Aaleck  had  to  be  repressed 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  113 

at  last,  for  several  of  the  members  united  in  a  com- 
plaint against  him.  Their  sides  ached,  but  that  they 
did  not  mind  so  much  ;  their  anxiety  was  about 
their  cheeks,  which  were  seriously  threatened  with 
an  explosion  if  they  attempted  to  eat.  To  avoid 
such  results  it  was  voted  that  no  one  should  make  a 
joke  nor  even  a  remark.  Silence  was  enjoined  ;  but 
what  did  that  amount  to  !  The  signs  and  grimaces 
were  worse  than  speech.  Force  was  no  remedy.  It 
took  time  to  get  the  party  toned  down,  but  eventually 
the  lunch  was  finished. 

We  strolled  over  and  watched  the  cricketers.  It 
all  depends  upon  how  you  look  at  a  thing.  So  many 
able-bodied  perspiring  men  knocking  about  a  little 
ball  on  a  warm  summer's  day,  that  is  one  way  ;  so 
many  men  reheved  from  anxious  care  and  laying  the 
foundation  for  long  years  of  robust  health  by  invigo- 
rating exercise  in  the  open  air,  that  is  the  other  view 
of  the  question.  The  ancients  did  not  count  against 
our  little  span  of  life  the  days  spent  in  the  chase  ; 
neither  need  wc  charge  those  spent  in  cricket ;  and  as 
for  our  sport,  coaching,  for  every  day  so  spent  we 
decided  that  it  and  another  might  safel}^  be  credited. 
He  was  a  very  wise  prime  minister  who  said  he  had 
often  found  important  duties  for  which  he  had  not 
time  ;  one  duty,  however,  he  had  always  made  time 
for,  his  daily  afternoon  ride  on  horseback.  Your 
always -busy  man  accomplishes  little  ;  the  great  doer 
is  he  who  has  plenty  of  leisure.  The  man  at  the 
helm  turns  the  wheel  now  and  then,  and  so  easil}-  too, 
touching  an  electric  bell  ;  it's  (he  stoker  di)wn  be- 
low who  is  })itching  into  it  with  In's  coat  off.  And 
look  at  Captain  INIcMickcn  promenading    the  deck 


114  'OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

ill  his  uniform  and  a  face  like  a  full  moon  ;  quite  at 
his  ease  and  ready  for  a  story.  And  there  is  John- 
nie Watson,  chief  engineer,  who  rules  over  the 
throbbing  heart  of  the  ship  :  he  is  standing  there 
prepared  for  a  crack.  Moral — Don't  worry  yourself 
over  work,  hold  yourself  in  reserve,  and  sure  as  fate, 
"  it  will  all  come  right  in  the  wash." 

Leaving  the  contestants,  we  walked  down  to  the 
lake  in  front  of  the  mansion,  and  with  our  usual  good 
fortune  we  were  just  in  time  to  see  the  twenty  acres 
of  ornamental  water  dragged  for  pike,  which  play 
such  havoc  with  other  fish.  The  water  had  been 
drained  into  a  small  pond,  which  seemed  alive  with  be- 
wildered fish.  We  sat  and  watched  with  quiet  inter- 
est the  men  drawing  the  net.  Hundreds  were  caught 
at  every  haul,  from  which  the  pike  were  taken.  A 
tremendous  eel  gave  the  men  a  lively  chase  ;  three 
or  four  times  it  escaped,  wriggled  through  their  legs 
and  hands  one  after  the  other,  and  made  for  the 
water.  Had  the  gamekeeper  not  succeeded  in  pin- 
ning it  to  the  ground  with  a  pitchfork,  the  eel  would 
have  beaten  the  whole  party. 

Lord  Vernon's  park  is  rich  in  attractions.  An 
old  narrow  picturesque  arched  bridge,  which  spans 
the  pretty  lake,  has  a  statue  of  Adam  at  one  end  and 
Eve  at  the  other.  Over  the  former  the  ivy  clusters 
so  thickly  as  to  make  our  great  prototype  a  mass  of 
living  green  ;  poor  Eve  has  been  less  favored,  for 
she  is  in  a  pitiable  plight  for  a  woman,  with  "  noth- 
ing to  wear. 

But  Eve  was  not  used  to  kind  treatment.  Adam 
w^as  by  no  means  a  modern  model  husband,  and 
never  gave   Eve  anything  in   excess  except  blame. 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  115 

Here  she  is  still,  the  Flora  McFlirasy  of  my  friend 
William  Allen  Butler  (minus  the  flora  as  I  have 
said)  ;  but  let  her  be  patient,  her  dress  is  sure  to 
come,  for  kind  nature  in  England  abhors  nakedness. 
She  is  ever  at  work  clothing  ever^^thing  with  her 
mantle  of  green. 

"  Ever  and  ever  bringing  secrets  fortli, 
It  silteth  in  the  green  of  forest  glades 
Nursing  strange  seedlings  at  the  cedar's  root. 
Devising  leaves,  blooms,  blades. 
This  is  its  touch  upon  the  blossomed  rose, 
The  fashion  of  its  hand  shaped  lotus  leaves  ; 
In  dark  soil  and  the  silence  of  the  seeds 
The  robe  of  Spring  it  weaves." 

We  had  rare  enjoyment  at  the  lake,  and  envied 
Lord  Vernon  his  princely  heritage.  The  old  forester 
who  once  showed  me  over  a  noble  estate  in  Scot- 
land was  quite  right.  I  was  enchanted  with  one  of 
the  views,  and  repeated, 

"  Where  is  the  coward  who  would  not  dare 
To  fight  for  such  a  land  !" 

"  Aye,"  said  the  old  man,  "  aye,  it's  a  grand 
country, /<?r  the  lairds.''  It  will  l)e  a  grander  coun- 
try some  day  when  it  is  less  "  for  the  lairds"  and 
more  for  the  toiling  masses  ;  but  may  the  destroying 
angel  of  progress  look  kindly  upon  such  scenes  of 
beauty  as  Sudbury  Park.  The  extensive  estate  may 
be  disentailed  and  cultivated  by  a  thousand  small 
owners  in  smiling  homes,  with  educated  children 
within  them,  and  the  land  bring  forth  greater  har- 
vests touched  by  the  magic  wand  of  the  sense  of  own- 
ership, and  yet  the  mansion  and  park  remain  intact 
and  give  to  its  possessor  rarer  pleasures  than  at  pres- 
ent.    I  think  one  of  the  greatest  drawbacks  to  life 


Il6  OUR   COACHING    TRIP. 

in  Britain  in  grand  'sXyX^  must  be  the  contrast  exist- 
ing between  the  squire  and  the  people  about  him. 
It  is  bad  enough  even  in  Chester  Valley,  Avhere  the 
average  condition  and  education  of  the  inhabitants 
are  probably  equal  to  any  locahty  in  the  world,  but  in 
England  it  is  far  too  marked  for  comfort,  I  should 
think. 

While  we  were  still  lingering  on  the  banks  of  the 
lake  Perry's  horn  sounded  from  the  main  road  to 
call  us  from  the  enchanting  scene,  and  we  were  off 
for  Dovedale  through  pretty  Ashbourne. 

Can  any  one  picture  a  resting-place  so  full  of 
peace  and  beauty  as  the  old  Izaak  Walton  Inn  ?  (If 
you  don't  put  in  that  k,  Mr.  Printer,  there  will  be 
trouble.)  We  arrived  there  in  the  twilight,  and  som.e 
of  us  walked  down  the  long  hill  and  got  our  first 
sight  of  the  Dove  from  the  bridge  at  the  foot  across 
the  stream. 

I  got  the  memorable  verses  near  enough  from 
memory  to  repeat  them  on  the  bridge.  Let  me  put 
them  down  here,  for  in  truth,  simple  as  they  are,  who 
is  going  to  predict  the  coming  of  the  day  when  they 
will  cease  to  be  prized  as  one  of  the  gems  of  literature  ? 

"  She  dwelt  among  the  untrodden  ways, 
Beside  the  springs  of  Dove, 
A  maid  whom  there  were  none  to  praise, 
And  very  few  to  love. 

"  A  violet  by  a  mossy  stone. 
Half  hidden  from  the  eye  ; 
Fair  as  a  star  when  onl}'  one 
Is  shining  in  the  sky. 

"  She  lived  unknown,  and  few  could  know 
When  Lucy  ceased  to  be  ; 
But  she  is  in  her  grave,  and  oh, 
The  difference  to  me  !" 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  117 

But  think  of  dear  old  Izaak  and  of  his  fishing 
e.N'Cursions  to  this  very  spot.  He  actually  stayed  at 
our  inn  !  lie  too  is  secure  of  his  position  as  the 
author  of  a  classic,  for  as  long  a  time  as  we  care 
to  look  forward  to.  Is  it  not  strange  that  no  one 
has  ever  imitated  this  man's  unique  style?  "God 
leads  us  not  to  heaven  by  many  nor  by  hard  ques- 
tions," says  the  fisherman,  and  he  knew  a  thing  or 
two.  There  is  a  flavor  about  him  peculiarly  his  own, 
but  especially  rich  when  read  in  this  old  inn,  sacred 
to  his  memory.  I  enjoyed  him  with  a  fresh  relish 
during  the  few  hours  of  Sunday  which  I  could  de- 
vote to  him,  for  there  is  a  good  sermon  in  many  a 
sentence  of  the  "Complete  Angler."  Dear  old 
boy,  your  place  in  m}-  library  and  in  my  heart  too  is 
secure. 

Ham  Hall,  near  the  inn,  is  the  great  place,  and 
there  is  a  prett}^  little  church  within  a  stone's  throw 
of  it.  We  walked  over  on  Sunday  morning  and  saw 
the  squire  come  into  church  with  his  family  and  take 
his  seat  among  his  people,  for  I  take  it  most  of  the 
congregation  were  connected  with  the  hall.  The 
parson  no  doubt  was  the  api)ointee  of  the  sc^uire, 
and  we  tried  to  estimate  the  importance  of  these  two 
men  in  the  district  ;  their  duties  and  influence — both 
great— for  to  a  large  extent  the  moral  as  well  as  the 
material  well-being  of  a  community  in  rural  England 
depend  upon  the  character  of  the  hall  and  parsonage. 
The  squire  was  Mr.  Ilanbury,  M.P.,  who  court- 
eously invited  our  party  to  visit  the  hall  after  service, 
and  to  stroll  as  we  pleased  through  his  grounds. 
He  had  been  in  America,  and  knew  our  erratic 
genius  and   brother  iron-master  Abram   S.  Hewitt. 


Ii8  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

In  the  evening  we  received  from  him  some  fine 
photographs  of  the  hall  (a  truly  noble  one),  which 
we  prize  highly.  The  accompanying  note  was  even 
more  gratifying,  for  it  said  that  he  had  been  so 
warmly  received  in  America  that  it  was  always  a 
pleasure  when  opportunity  offered  to  show  Ameri- 
cans such  attentions  as  might  b^  in  his  power.  It 
is  ever  thus,  cold  indifference  between  the  two  Eng- 
lish-speaking branches  is  found  only  among  the  stay- 
at-homes.  The  man  who  knows  from  personal  expe- 
rience the  leading  characteristics  of  the  people  upon 
both  sides  of  the  ferry  is  invariably  a  warm  and 
sincere  friend.  The  two  peoples  have  only  to  be- 
come acquainted  to  become  enthusiastic  over  each 
other's  rare  qualities. 

This  is  a  sheep-grazing  district,  quite  hilly,  and 
the  rainfall  is  much  beyond  the  average  ;  but  the 
weather  question  troubles  us  little  ;  the  Charioteers 
carry  sunshine  within  and  without.  Our  afternoon 
\valk  was  along  the  Dove,  which  we  followed  up  the 
glen  between  the  hills  for  several  miles,  finding  new 
beauties  at  every  turn.  Mr.  Hanbury  has  the  stream 
on  his  estr.te  reserved  for  five  miles  for  his  own  fish- 
ing, but  our  landlord  said  he  w^as  very  generous  and 
always  gave  a  gentleman  a  day's  sport  when  proper- 
ly applied  for.  We  were  offered  free  range  by  Mr. 
Hanbury,  a  privilege  which  Davie  and  I  hold  in  re- 
serve for  a  future  day,  that  we  may  most  success- 
fully conjure  the  shade  of  our  congenial  brother  of 
the  angle;  "for  you  are  to  note,"  saith  he,  "that 
we  anglers  all- love  one  another."  We  at  least  all 
love  Izaak  Walton,  "  an  excellent  angler  and  now 
with  God."     Reading  the  ingenious  defence  of  fish- 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  119 

ing  by  our  author,  "  an  honest  man  and  a  most  ex- 
cellent fly-fisher,"  is  not  waste  time  in  these  days  of 
violent  anti-vivisectionists,  who  have  seen  poor  hares 
chased  down  for  sport  all  their  lives,  and  their  Prince 
shoot  pigeons  from  a  trap  without  a  protest,  but  who 
affect  to  feel  pity  for  a  cat  sacrificed  upon  the  holy 
altar  of  science.  M!serable  hypocrites,  who  swallow 
so  large  a  camel  and  strain  at  so  ver}^  small  a  gnat  ! 
It  shows  what  demoralization  is  brought  about  in 
good  people  by  rank  and  fashion  ;  one  rule  for  the 
Prince  who  disgraces  himself  by  cruel  sports,  another 
for  the  medical  student  who  exalts  himself  working 
for  the  good  of  his  race. 

But  to  quaint  Izaak's  defence  ;  and  first  as  to  the 
fish  themselves. 

"  Nay,  the  increase  of  these  creatures  that  are 
bred  and  fed  in  water  is  not  (Mily  more  and  more 
miraculous,  but  more  advantageous  to  man,  not  only 
for  the  lengthening  of  his  life,  but  for  the  preventing 
of  sickness  ;  for  'tis  observed  by  the  most  learned 
physicians  that  the  casting  off  of  Lent  and  other  fish 
days  hath  doubtless  been  the  chief  cause  of  those 
many  putrid,  shaking,  intermitting  agues  into  which 
this  nation  of  ours  is  now  more  subject  than  those 
wiser  countries  Avhich  feed  on  herbs,  salads,  and 
plenty  of  fish.  And  it  is  fit  to  remember  that  Moses 
(Levit.  11:9;  Deut.  14  :  9)  appointed  fish  to  be  the 
chief  diet  for  the  best  commonwealth  that  ever  yet 
was  ;  and  it  is  observable  not  (inly  that  there  are  fish, 
as  namely  the  whale,  three  times  as  big  as  the  mighty 
elephant  that  is  so  fierce  in  battle,  but  that  the 
mightiest  feasts  have  been  of  fish." 

Is  not  that  capital?     It  calls  to    mind  Josh  Bil- 


I20  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

lings's  answer  to  his  correspondent  who  wrote  say- 
ing that  he  had  heard  many  times  that  a  fish  diet  was 
most  favorable  for  increase  of  brain  power,  but  he 
had  never  been  able  to  find  out  the  best  kind  of  fish 
for  the  purpose.  Could  he  inform  him?  "  In  your 
case,"  replied  Josh,  "  try  a  whale  or  two." 

Here  is  Izaak's  argument  for  the  lawfulness  of 
fishing  : 

"  And  for  the  lawfulness  of  fishing  it  may  very 
well  be  maintained  by  our  Saviour's  bidding  St. 
Peter  cast  his  hook  into  the  water  and  catch  a  fish 
for  money  to  pay  tribute  to  Caesar.  And  it  is 
observable  that  it  was  our  Savnour's  will  that  four 
fishermen  should  have  a  priority  of  nomination  in 
the  catalogue  of  his  twelve  disciples  (Matt.  lo  :  2,  4, 
13),  as  namely  :  St.  Peter,  St.  Andrew,  St.  James, 
and  St.  John,  and  then  the  rest  in  their  order.  And 
it  is  yet  more  observable  that  when  our  blessed 
Saviour  went  up  into  the  mount  when  he  left  the 
rest  of  his  disciples  and  chose  only  three  to  bear  him 
company  at  his  transfiguration  that  those  three  were 
all  fishermen  ;  and  it  is  to  be  believed  that  all  the 
other  apostles  after  they  betook  themselves  to  fol- 
low Christ,  betook  themselves  to  be  fishermen 
too  :  for  it  is  certain  that  the  greater  number  of 
them  were  found  together  fishing  by  Jesus  after 
his  resurrection,  as  it  is  recorded  in  the  21st  chap- 
ter of  St.  John's  gospel,  v.  3,  4.  This  was  the  em- 
ployment of  these  happy  fishermen,  concerning 
which  choice  some  have  made  these  observations  : 
first,  that  he  never  reproved  these  for  their  employ- 
ment or  calling  as  he  did  the  scribes  and  the  money- 
changers ;  and  secondl}',  he  found  that  the  hearts  of 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  121 

such  men  were  fitted  for  contemplation  and  quiet- 
ness, men  of  mild,  and  sweet,  and  peaceable  spirits, 
as  indeed  most  anglers  are  ;  these  men  our  blessed 
Saviour,  who  is  observed  to  love  to  plant  grace  in 
good  natures,  though  indeed  nothing  be  too  hard  for 
him,  yet  these  men  he  chose  to  call  from  their  irre- 
provable  employment  of  fishing  and  gave  them  grace 
to  be  his  disciples  and  to  follow  him  and  do  won- 
ders.    I  say  four  of  twelve." 

There  I  think  we  may  safely  rest  the  defence  of  our 
favorite  sport,  especially  upon  secondly  ;  for  it  is  all 
very  well  to  say  animals  must  be  slain  that  we  may 
live,  and  yet  it  does  not  give  one  a  high  idea  of  the 
fineness  of  the  man  who  chooses  the  occupation  of  a 
butcher,  and  is  happiest  when  he  is  killing  some- 
thing. Blood  !  lago,  blood  !  For  my  part,  while  rec- 
ognizing the  necessity  that  the  sheep  should  bleat 
for  the  lamb  slain  that  I  may  feast,  I  don't  profess  to 
see  that  the  arrangement  is  anything  to  rave  over  as 
an  illustration  of  the  wisdom  or  the  goodness  of  God. 
Let  us  eat,  asking  no  questions,  but  trusting  that 
some  day  we  shall  see  clearly  that  all  is  well.  Mean- 
while I  give  up  coursing,  fox  hunting,  and  pigeon 
shooting  as  unworthy  sports,  and  never  again  will  I 
kill  a  deer  in  sport.  I  once  saw  the  mild,  reproach- 
ful eyes  of  one  turned  upon  me  as  it  lay  wounded, 
as  much  as  to  say  :  "  I  am  so  sorry  it  was  yoii  who 
did  this."  So  was  I,  poor  innocent  thing.  It  is 
years  since  I  saw  that  look,  but  it  haunts  me  yet  at 
intervals.  It  is  one  of  the  many  things  I  have  done 
for  which  I  am  ever  sorry. 

Too  much   fishing  !      It  is  no  use  to  try  to  give 
you  the  good  things  of  Izaak  Walton,  for  it  is  with 


122  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

him  as  with  Shakespeare.  Two  volumes  of  his 
"beauties"  handed  to  gentle  Elia.  "This  is  all 
very  well,  my  friend,  but  where  are  the  other  five 
volumes?"  We  must  get  out  of  DoVedale — that  is 
clear.     Allans  done  ! 

Our  stage  to-day  was  to  Chatsvvoith,  twenty-four 
miles,  where  our  Fourth  of  July  dinner  was  to  be 
celebrated.  As  we  passed  Ilam  Hall  we  stopped, 
sounded  our  horn,  and  gave  three  cheers  for  the 
squire  who  had  been  so  kind  to  his  "  American 
cousins." 

Our  luncheon  was  beside  the  pretty  brook  at 
Youlgreaves,  on  the  estate  of  the  Duke  of  Rutland, 
and  a  beautiful  trout-stream  it  is.  We  could  see  the 
speckled  beauties  darting  about,  and  were  quite  pre- 
pared to  believe  the  wonderful  stories  told  us  of  the 
basketfuls  taken  there  sometimes.  There  is  some- 
thing infectious  in  a  running  stream.  It  is  the  pret- 
tiest thing  in  nature.  Nothing  adds  so  much  to  our 
midday  enjoyment  as  one  of  these — 

"  Making  music  o'er  the  enamelled  stones, 
And  giving  a  gentle  kiss  to  every  sedge 
It  overtaketh  in  its  pilgrimage." 

Mother  and  Aggie  were  off  to  paidle  in  the  burn 
after  luncheon,  and  as  a  fitting  close  the}^  kilted  their 
petticoats  and  danced  a  highland  reel  on  the  green- 
sward, in  sight  of  the  company,  but  at  some  distance 
from  us.  They  were  just  wee  lassies  again,  and  to 
be  a  wee  lassie  at  seventy-one  is  a  triumph  indeed  ; 
but,  as  mother  says,  that  is  nothing.  She  intends  to 
be  as  daft  for  many  years  to  come,  for  grandfather 
was  far  older  when  he  alarmed  the  auld  wives  of  the 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  123 

village  on  Halloween  night,  sticking  his  false  face 
through  the  windows.  "  Oh  !"  said  one,  recovering 
from  her  fright,  "  it  is  just  that  daft  callant,  Andrew 
Carnegie  !"  I  rememher  one  day,  in  Dunfermline, 
an  old  man  in  the  nineties — a  picture  of  withered 
eld,  a  few  straight,  glistening  white  hairs  on  each 
side  of  his  head,  and  his  nose  and  chin  threatening 
each  other— tottered  across  the  room  to  where  I 
was  sitting,  and  laying  his  long,  skinny  hand  upon 
my  head,  murmured  : 

"  An'  ye're  a  gran'son  o'  Andrew  Carnegie's  ! 
Aye,  maan,  I've  seen  the  day  when  your  grand- 
faether  an'  me  could  have  hallooed  ony  reasonable 
maan  oot  o'  his  judgment." 

1  hope  to  be  a  daft  callant  at  seventy-one — as  daft  as 
we  all  were  that  day.  Indeed,  we  were  all  daft  enough 
while  coaching,  but  mother  really  ought  to  have  been 
restrained  a  little.     She  went  beyond  all  bounds. 

Let  me  try  to  give  an  idea  how  this  blessed  Eng- 
land is  crowded.  Here  is  a  signboard  we  stopped 
at  to-day,  to  make  sure  we  were  taking  the  right  way; 
for,  even  with  the  ordnance  map  upon  one's  knee, 
strict  attention  is  required  or  you  will  be  liable  to 
take  the  wrong  turn. 

A  voice  from  the  general  manager  :  "  Perry, 
stop  at  the  post  and  let  us  be  sure." 

"  Right,  sir."  , 

The  post  points  four  ways,  east,  west,  north,  and 
south. 

First  arm  reads  as  follows  :  Tissington,  3  ;  Mat- 
lock Bath,  10  ;  Chesterfield,  21. 

Second  arm  :  Ashbourne,  3  ;  Derby,  16;  Kissing- 
ton,  19. 


124  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

Third  arm  :  Doveclale,  Okedon,  Ham. 

Fourth  arm  :  New  Haven,  6  ;  Buxton,  17  ;  Bake- 
well,  13  ;  Chats  worth,  16. 

All  this  the  guide-post  said  at  one  turn,  and 
fortunate  it  was  that  Chatsworth,  our  destination, 
happened  to  be  upon  the  fourth  arm,  for  had  the 
worthy  road-surveyors  not  deemed  it  necessary  to 
extend  their  information  beyond  Bakewell,  3^ou  see 
we  might  as  well  have  consulted  the  Book  of  Days. 

The  entrance  to  Kissington  estate  was  near  the 
post,  and  we  were  very  kindly  permitted  to  drive 
through,  which  it  was  said  would  save  several  miles 
and  give  vis  a  view  of  another  English  hall.  We 
managed,  however,  to  take  a  wrong  turn  somewhere, 
and  added  some  eight  miles  to  our  journey  ;  so  much 
the  better — the  longer  the  route  the  happier  we  were. 

Every  English  hall  seems  to  have  some  special 
features  in  which  it  surpasses  all  others.  This  is  as 
it  should  be,  for  it  permits  every  fortunate  owner  to 
love  his  own  home  for  acknowledged  merits  of  its 
own.  If  one  has  the  nobler  terrace,  another  boasts 
a  finer  lawn  ;  and  if  one  has  woods  and  a  rooker}^, 
has  not  the  other  the  winding  Nith  through  its  bor- 
ders ?  One  cannot  have  the  best  of  everything, 
even  upon  an  English  estate  ;  neither  can  one  life 
have  the  best  possible  of  everything.  Let  us  then 
be  thankful  for  our  special  mercies,  and  let  all  our 
ducks  be  swans,  as  friend  Edward  says  mine  are. 

Have  you  never  had  your  friend  praise  his  wife 
to  you  in  moments  of  confidence,  when  you  have 
been  fishing  for  a  week  together  ?  You  wonder  for 
a  few  moments,  as  you  recall  the  Betsey  or  Susan 
he  extols,  for,  if  the  truth  is  to  be  spoken,  you  have 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  125 

as  it  were  shed  tears  for  him  when  you  thought  of 
his  yoke.  Well,  that  is  the  true  way  ;  let  him  make 
her  a  swan,  even  if  she  is  not  very  much  of  a  duck. 

We  stopped  at  Rowsley  for  Miss  French.  She 
brought  the  London  Times,  which  gave  us  the  first 
news  of  the  terrible  catastrophe  in  Washington.  We 
would  not  believe  that  the  shot  was  to  prove  fatal. 
It  did  not  seem  possible  that  President  Garfield's 
career  was  to  end  in  such  a  wa}^  ;  but,  do  what  we 
could,  the  great  fear  would  not  down,  and  we 
reached  Chatsworth  much  depressed.  Our  fourth 
of  July  was  a  sad  one,  and  the  intended  celebration 
was  giv^en  up.  Fortunately,  the  news  became  more 
encouraging  day  after  day,  so  much  so  that  the 
coaching  party  ventured  to  telegraph  its  congratu- 
lations through  Secretary  Blaine,  and  it  was  not  un- 
til we  reached  New  York  that  we  knew  that  a  re- 
lapse had  occurred.  The  cloud  which  came  over  us, 
therefore,  had  its  silver  lining  in  the  promise  of  re- 
covery and  a  return  to  greater  usefulness  than  ever. 

We  stopped  to  visit  Haddon  tiall  upon  our  way 
to  Chatsworth,  but  here  we  came  upon  tourists' 
ground.  Every  one  does  the  sights  of  the  neighbor- 
hood, and  readers  are  therefore  respectfully  referred 
to  the  guide-books.  We  had  our  first  dusty  ride  to- 
day, for  we  are  upon  limestone  roads,  but  the  dis- 
comfort was  only  trifling  ;  the  weather,  however, 
was  really  warm,  and  our  umbrellas  were  brought 
into  use  as  sunshades. 

Haddon  Hall  is  a  fine   specimen  of  the  old    hall, 

and  Chatsworth  of  the   wqw ,  except  that  the  latter 

partakes  far  too  much  of  the  show  feature.      It  is  no 

doubt  amazing  to  the  crowds  of  Manchester  and  Bir- 

9 


126  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

mingham  workers  who  flock  here  for  a  holiday  and 
who  have  seen  nothing  finer,  but  to  \is  who  have  in 
our  travels  seen  the  real  gems  of  England,  this 
Chatsworth  is  largely  paste.  I  speak  only  of  the  in- 
terior, of  course,  for  the  house  itself  and  its  sur- 
roundings are  grand. 


EdENSOR,  Jul}'  4. 

Edensor  is  the  model  villae^e  which  the  Duke  of 
Devonshire  has  built  adjoining  the  park — a  very  ap- 
propriate and  pretty  name,  for  it  is  perhaps  the  finest 
made-to-order  village  in  England.  The  day  was  so 
warm,  and  our  next  stage  to  Buxton  being  not  very 
long  (twenty-six  miles),  we  decided  to  spend  the  day 
here  and  take  an  evening  drive. 

We  met  here,  enjoying  their  honeymoon,  a  bride 
and  groom  who  were  well  known  to  our  Wolver- 
hampton delegation,  and  how  do  you  suppose  they 
Avere  travelling  1  Not  in  the  ordinary  mode,  I  as- 
sure you.  I  mention  this  incident  that  some  of  my 
charming  young  lady  friends,  who  give  me  so  much 
pleasure  riding  with  me,  may  make  a  note  of  it. 
They  were  doing  beautiful  Derbyshire  on  horse- 
back !  It  was  delightful  to  see  them  start  off  in  this 
way.  I  became  interested  in  the  bride,  who  must 
be  no  ordinary  woman  to  think  of  this  plan  ;  she 
told  me  it  was  proving  a  wonderful  success  ;  and  the 
happy  young  fellow  intimated  to  me,  in  a  kind  of 
confidential  way,  that  her  novel  idea  was  the  finest 
one  he  had  ever  been  a  part\^  to.  I  asked  him  if  he 
could  honestly  recommend  it,  and  he  boldly  said  he 
could.     We  must  think  over  this. 


BKIGHTO.Y   TO  INVERNESS.  127 

The  evening  ride  was  one  of  our  pleasantest 
experiences.  How  entrancing  England  is  after  a 
warm  day,  when  everything  seems  to  rejoice  in  the 
hours  of  peace  succeeding  the  sunshine  which  forces 
growth  ! 

"  When  the  lieart-sick  earth 

Turns  her  broad  back  upon  the  gaud}'  sun. 
And  stoops  her  weary  forehead  to  the  night 
To  struggle  with  her  sorrow  all  alone, 
The  moon,  that  patient  sufferer,  pale  with  pain, 
Presses  her  cold  lips  on  her  sister's  brow 
Till  she  is  calm." 

It  is  thus  the  earth  appeared  to  me  as  we  drove 
along  ;  it  was  resting  after  its  labors  of  the  sunny 
day.  The  night  was  spent  at  Buxton,  that  famous 
spa.  Many  invalids  are  there  drinking  the  waters  ; 
but  I  take  it,  as  is  usual  with  such  places,  the  change 
of  air  and  scene,  of  thought,  and  effort,  and,  with 
most,  change  of  diet  and  freedom  from  excess,  count 
for  ninety  nine  points,  and  the  waters,  mavbc,  for  one. 
.  But  it  is  of  no  consequence  what  docs  it.  so  it  is 
done,  and  Buxton  continues  to  flourish.  Our  hotel 
was  a  magnificent  "  limited  companv"  affair.  The 
start  next  morning  was  a  sight  in  the  first  real  down- 
pour in  dead  earnest  we  had  experienced.  The  sky 
was  dark — not  one  tiny  ray  of  light  to  give  us  the 
slightest  hope  of  change  ;  the  barometer  low  and 
still  falling.  Clearly  we  were  in  for  it  ;  nevertheless, 
at  the  appointed  hour  the  Gay  Charioteers,  arrayed 
in  their  waterproofs,  with  the  good  hats  and  bonnets 
all  inside  the  coach,  passed  through  the  crowds  of 
guests  who  lined  the  hall,  wondering  at  these  mad 
Americans,  and  tt^ok  their  accustomed  seats  with  an 


!28  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

alacrity  that  showed   they  considered  the  weather 
"perfectly  lovely." 

There  are  two  miles  of  steep  ascent  as  we  leave 
the  town,  and  a  few  of  us  decided  to  walk,  Misses 
Emma  and  Alice  being  of  the  number.  Those  who 
started  upon  the  coach  were  all  right  ;  the  pedes- 
trians, however,  found  themselves  far  from  dry  when 
the  top  was  reached — feet  and  knees  were  wet.  By 
noon  the  rain  had  ceased,  and  we  stopped  at  a  little 
inn,  where  fires  were  made,  our  "  reserve"  clothing 
brought  into  use,  and  our  wet  clothes  dried,  and  we 
were  as  happy  as  larks  when  we  sat  down  to  lunch- 
eon. Is  not  that  a  wise  test  which  Thackeray  puts 
in  the  mouth  of  one  of  his  waiters  :  "  Oh,  I  knew  he 
was  a  gentleman,  he  was  so  easily  pleased  "  ?  Well, 
our  host  and  hostess  at  that  little  inn,  who  were  taken 
so  by  surprise  when  a  four-in-hand  stopped  at  the 
door,  said  something  like  this  about  the  Ameri- 
can ladies  and  gentlemen  as  they  left.  Why  not  ? 
Nothing  comes  amiss  to  the  Gay  Charioteers,  and 
so  on  we  go  to  Manchester,  getting  once  more  into 
the  grim,  smoky  regions  of  manufacturing  enterprise. 


Manchester,  Jul}'  6. 
Mine  host  of  The  Queen's  takes  the  prize  for  the 
one  best  "  swell  "  dinner  enjoyed  by  the  party  ;  but 
then  the  rain  and  the  moderate  luncheon  at  the  little 
inn,  so  different  from  the  picnics  on  flowery  banks, 
may  have  given  it  a  relish.  The  Queen's  was  evi- 
dently determined  that  its  American  guests  should 
leave  with  a  favorable  impression,  and  so  they 
did. 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  129 

There  was  time  to  visit  the  Town  Hall  and  walk 
the  principal  streets,  but  all  felt  an  invincible  repug- 
nance to  larg-e  towns.  It  was  not  these  we  had  come 
to  see.  Let  us  get  away  as  soon  as  possible,  and  out 
once  more  to  the  green  fields.  The  morning  was 
cloudy,  but  the  rain  held  off,  and  we  left  the  hotel 
amid  a  great  crowd.  The  police  htid  at  last  to  step 
in  front  of  the  coach  and  clear  tlie  way.  The  news- 
papers had  announced  our  arrival  and  intended  de- 
parture, and  this  brought  the  crowd  upon  us.  Get- 
ting into  and  out  of  large  cities  is  the  most  difficult 
part  of  our  driving,  for  the  ordnance  map  is  useless 
there — frequent  stoppages  and  inquiries  must  be 
made  ;  but  so  far  we  have  been  fortunate,  and  our 
horn  keeps  opposing  vehicles  out  of  our  way  in 
narrow  streets  and  in  turning  corners.  We  were 
bound  for  Anderton  Hall,  to  spend  the  night  with 
our  friend  Mr.  Burroughs.  Luncheon  was  taken  in 
a  queer,  old-fashioned  inn,  where  we  ate  from  bare 
deal    tables  and   drank  home-brewed  ale  while  we 


sang 


"  Let  gentlemen  fine  sit  down  to  tlieir  wine, 
But  we  will  stick  to  our  beer,  we  will, 
For  we  will  stick  to  our  beer." 

The  number  and  variety  of  temperance  drinks 
advertised  in  England  is  incredible.  Non-alcoholic 
beverages  meet  us  in  flaming  advertisements  at 
every  step— from  nervous  tonics,  phosphated,  down 
to  the  most  startling  of  all,  which,  according 
to  the  London  Echo  of  June  2i\,  the  Bishop  of 
Exeter  advertised  when  he  opened  a  coffee-house, 
saying  : 


130  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

"  It  looks  like  beer, 
It  smells  like  beer. 
It  tastes  like  beer, 
Yet  it  is  not  beer." 

Better  if  it  had  been,  your  reverence,  lor  your 
new  beverage  was  probably  a  villainous  compound, 
certain  to  work  more  injury  than  genuine  beer.  In 
this  country  we  also  try  to  cheat  the  devil.  I  mean 
our  unco  good  people  try  it  ;  but  we  call  it  "  bitters," 
and  the  worse  the  whiskey  the  better  the  bitters. 


Chorley,  July  7. 

As  we  approached  Anderton  Hall  the  English  and 
American  flags  were  seen  floating  from  the  archway, 
earnest  of  cordial  welcome.     We  were  quite  at  home 
immediately.     Mr.   and   Mrs.    Burroughs  had  their 
family  and  friends  ready  to  greet  us.     The  dining- 
hall  was  decorated  with  the  flags  of  the  old  and  the 
new   lands,   gracefully  intertwined,  symbolizing  the 
close   and    warm    friendship    which    exists  between 
them — never,  we  hope,  to  be  again  disturbed.     We 
had  a  long  walk  about  the  place  and  on  the  banks  of 
the    famous    Rivington    Reservoir,  which    supplies 
Manchester  with  water.    In  the  evening,  after  dinner, 
came  speeches.     The    evening    passed   delightfully. 
Next  day  we  were  sorely  tempted,     Mr.  Middleton 
was  to  have  the  school -children  at  his  house  to  be 
entertained,  and  an  opportunity  to  see  a  novel  cele- 
bration was  afforded  us.     Our  host  and  hostess  were 
pressing  in  their  invitation  for  us  to  stay,  but  one 
night    of   fourteen   guests,    two    servants,  and    four 
horses,  was  surely  enough  ;  so  we  blew  our  horn, 
and,  with  three  ringing  cheers  for  Anderton  Hall  and 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  13  ^ 

all  within  it,  drove  out  of  its  hospitable  gates.  We 
stopped  and  paid  our  respects  to  Mr.  and  jNIrs.  Mid- 
dleton  as  we  passed  their  place,  and  left  them  all 
with  very  sincere  regret.  How  pleasant  it  would 
be  to  linger,  but  Inverness  lies  far  in  the  north.  We 
are  scarcely  one-third  of  our  way  thither  and  the 
time-table  stares  us  in  the  face.  We  do  not  quite 
"fold  our  tents  like  the  Arabs  and  silently  steal 
away,"  but  at  the  thrilling  call  of  the  horn  we 
mount,  and  with  cheers  and  God-speeds  take  our  de- 
parture for  other  scenes. 


Preston,  July  8. 
Preston,  sixteen  miles  away,  is  our  destination, 
permitting  a  late  start  to  be  made.  Our  I'oute  is  still 
throuofh  a  manufacturing:  district,  for  Manchester 
reaches  her  arms  far  out  in  every  direction.  We 
pass  ever}^  now  and  then  a  company  of  show-people 
with  their  vans.  Sometimes  we  find  the  caravan  at 
rest,  the  old,  weary-looking  horses  nibbling  the  road- 
side grass,  for  the  irregular-ity  of  the  hedges  in  Eng- 
land gives  fine  little  plots  of  grass  along  the  hedge- 
rows, and  nice  offsets,  as  it  were,  in  the  road,  where 
these  strolling  j^layers,  and  gypsies,  peddlers,  and 
itinerant  venders  of  all  sorts  of  queer  things,  can  call 
a  halt  and  enjoy  themselves.  Every  van  appears  to 
be  invested  with  an  air  of  mvstery,  for  was  not  our 
Shakesi)eare, 

"  Th'  applause,  delight,  the  wonder  of  our  stage," 

a  strolling  player,  plaj-ing  his  part  in  barns  and 
outhouses  to  wondering  rustics  ?  There  are  such 
possibilities  in  every  van  that  I  greet  the  sweet  little 


132  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

child  as  if  she  were  a  princess  in  disguise,  and  the 
dark-eyed,  foreign-looking  boy  as  if  he  might  have 
Avithin  him  the  soul  of  Buddha.  I  do  not  believe 
that  any  other  form  of  life  has  the  attractions  of  this 
nomadic  existence.  To  make  it  perfect  one  should 
put  away  enough  in  the  funds  as  a  reserve  to  be 
drawn  upon  when  he  could  not  make  the  pittance 
necessary  to  feed  and  clothe  him  and  buy  a  few  old 
copies  of  good  books  as  he  passed  through  a  village. 
The  rule  might  be,  only  when  hungry  shall  this 
pocketbook  be  opened.  I  should  have  one  other 
contingency  in  order  to  be  perfectly  happy— when 
I  wanted  to  help  a  companion  in  distress.  Elia 
was  truly  not  very  far  from  it.  If  I  were  not  the  in- 
dependent gentleman  I  am,  I  would  be  a  member  of 
a  strolling  band  such  as  we  pass  in  this  crowded  land 
every  nov^/  and  then,  and  boast  that  Shakespeare  was 
of  our  profession.  What  are  the  Charioteers  after 
all  in  their  happiest  dream  but  aristocratic  gypsies  ? 
That  is  the  reason  we  are  so  enraptured  with  the  life. 
But  in  Preston  there  is  no  scope  for  idealism.  It 
is  a  city  where  cotton  is  king.  No  town  can  be  much 
less  attractive  ;  but,  mark  you,  a  few  steps  toward  the 
river  and  you  overlook  one  of  the  prettiest  parks  in 
the  world.  The  Ribble  runs  at  the  foot  of  the  slop- 
ing hill  upon  which  the  city  stands,  and  its  banks 
have  been  converted  into  the  pleasure-ground  I 
speak  of,  in  which  the  toilers  sport  in  thousands 
and  gaze  upon  the  sweet  fields  of  living  green  be- 
yond far  into  the  country.  It  is  not  so  bad  when 
the  entire  district  is  not  given  over  to  manufactures, 
as  in  Birmingham  and  Manchester.  There  is  the 
cloud,  but  there  is  the  silver  lining-  also. 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  133 

At  Preston  many  of  iis  received  letters  from 
home.  Harry's  funny  one  from  his  little  daughter 
Emma  (a  namesake  of  our  Emma  of  the  Chariot- 
eers) gave  us  a  good  laugh.  1  remember  there  was 
one  announcement  particularly  noteworthy  :  "  Nine- 
ty dollars  gone  to  smash,  papa.  The  pony's  dead." 
There  is  your  future  special  correspondent  for  you. 

At  eleven  o'clock  this  evening  the  party  received 
a  notable  addition — Andrew  Martin,  my  old  school- 
fellow and  "  the  Maester's  son,"  arrived  from  Dun- 
fermline. He  was  received  at  the  station  by  a 
committee  especially  appointed  for  the  purpose,  and 
shortly  thereafter  duly  initiated  into  all  the  rites 
and  mysteries  of  the  Gav  Charioteers.  He  was 
required,  late  as  it  was,  to  sing  two  Scotch  songs 
to  determine  his  eligibility.  There  ma)'  be  some 
man  who  can  sing  "  Oh  !  \\\\)-  left  I  my  hame  ?" — 
my  favorite  at  present,  and  written  by  GilfiUan  in 
Dunfermline,  note  that — or  "  When  the  kye  come 
hame,"  better  than  our  new  member,  but  none  of  us 
has  been  so  fortunate  as  to  meet  him,  nor  have  I 
ever  heard  one  who  could  sing  them  as  well  for  me  ; 
but  there  may  be  a  touch  of  Aukl  Lang  Syne  in  his 
voice  which  strikes  chords  in  my  heart  and  sets  them 
vibrating.  There  are  subtle  sympathies  lurking 
in  the  core  of  man's  nature,  responsive  to  no  law 
but  their  own,  but  I  notice  all  press  Andrew  to  sing, 
and  keep  \Q.\-y  (juiet  wlicn  he  does.  We  had  the 
pleasure  of  seeing  the  new  member  get  just  as  daft 
as  the  rest  of  us  next  day,  gathering  wild  flowers 
along  the  hedgerows,  the  glittering,  towering  coach 
coming  up  to  us.  He  had  time  to  say  :  "  Man, 
this  canna  be  t'trtz  bad  for  us  !"     No,  not  very  ;  only 


134  OUR    COACHING    TRIP 

we  did  not  know  then  how  bad  it  would  be  for  us 
when,  after  the  dream-like  existence  had  passed  and 
we  were  back  once  more  to  our  labors  of  this  work- 
aday world,  thrown  out  as  it  were  from  a  paradise 
and  falling' as  Milton's  Satan  fell. 

Fortunately  we  did  not  know  then  that  for  months 
after  our  fall  there  were  to  be  only  sad  memories  of 
days  of  happiness  so  unalloyed  that  they  can  never 
again  be  equalled.  It  is  not  at  all  desirable  to  be 
honestly  persuaded  that  you  nev^er  again  can  have 
seven  weeks  of  such  days  as  made  us  happy,  innocent 
children  ;  but  we  shall  see.  There  are  as  good  f^sh 
in  the  sea  as  were  ever  caught,  and  though  it  is  true 
they  do  not  seem  to  bite  as  they  used  to,  maj^be  we 
can  venture  to  try  coaching  again.  The  height  of 
our  musical  season  was  during  this  part  of  the  jour- 
ney. Miss  Reid,  Miss  Johns,  and  Mrs.  King  are  all 
musical  and  blessed  with  the  power  of  song.  Messrs. 
Martin,  McCargo,  and  King  differ  only  as  one  star 
differs  from  another  in  glory  ;  and  there  was  another 
gentleman,  who  shall  be  nameless,  who  sang  without 
being  asked,  and  who,  as  usual,  was  not  encored  by 
his  unappreciative  audience. 

Davie  deserves  notice.  He  sang  a  beautiful 
Scotch  song  to-day,  "  Cowden  Knowes,"  and  when 
he  was  done  Andrew  immediately  asked  :  "  Whaur 
did  ye  get  that  ?     Ye  didna  get  that  out  of  a  book  !" 

Right,  my  boy.  It  was  at  his  father's  knee.  Who 
ever  learnt  a  Scotch  song  out  of  books  ?  They  are 
possessed  of  souls,  these  songs,  to  be  caught  only 
from  living  lips.  The  bodies  alone  are  to  be  found 
within  the  bars. 

Passing  Bolton  we  saw  the  first  bowling  green, 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  135 

sure  proof  that  we  are  getting-  northward,  where 
every  village  has  its  green  and  its  bowling  elub, 
the  ancient  game  of  bowls  still  offering  to  rural 
England  attractions  paramount  to  more  modern 
sports. 

We  lunched  at  Grisdalebrook,  ten  miles  from 
Lancaster,  which  was  to  be  our  stopping-place.  To- 
day's drive  was  made  fragrant  by  the  scent  of  new- 
mown  hay,  and  we  passed  many  bands  of  merry 
Ipaymakers.  When  Dickens  pronounced  no  smell 
the  best  smell,  he  must  have  momentarily  forgotten 
that  which  so  dehghted  us.  I  do  give  up  most  of 
the  so-called  fine  smells,  but  there  are  a  few  better 
than  Dickens's  best,  and  surely  that  of  to-day  is  of 
them.  We  went  into  a  Catholic  church  in  one  of 
our  strolls,  for  let  it  be  remembered  many  a  glori- 
ous tramp  we  had,  and  the  coach  was  rarely  hon- 
ored with  all  the  party  when  a  chance  to  walk  pre- 
sented itself.  The  requests  posted  upon  the  door  of 
this  church  seemed  to  carry  one  back  a  long  wa)-  : 

"Of  your  charity  pray  for  tlie  soul  of  Rebecca  Robinson,  who 
died  June  7th,  1880,  fortified  with  rites  of  Holy  Church,  on  whose 
soul  sweet  Jesus  have  iTiercy.      R.  I.  P." 

There  were  several  such  requests.  What  a  power 
that  church  has  been  and  is  only  one  who  has  trav- 
elled the  w^orld  round  can  know.  In  England  here 
it  is  but  a  sickly,  foreign  i)lant,  so  fearfully  foreign. 
We  can  all  repeat  Buddha's  words  and  apply  them 
to  it,  but  they  should  not  stop  here  : 

"  And  third  came  she  who  gives  dark  creeds  their  power. 
Silabbat-paramasa,  sorceress. 
Draped  fair  in  many  lands  as  lowly  Faith, 
But  ever  juggling  souls  with  rites  and  prayers  ; 


136  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

The  keeper  of  those  keys  which  lock  up  Hells 
And  open  Heavens.     'Wilt  thou  dare?'  she  said, 
'  Put  by  our  sacred  books,  dethrone  our  gods. 
Unpeople  all  the  temples,  shaking  down 
That  law  which  feeds  the  priests  and  props  the  realm  ?' 
But  Buddha  answered,  'What  thou  bidd'st  me  keep 
Is  form  which  passes,  but  the  free  truth  stands  ; 
Get  thee  unto  thy  darkness.'  " 


Lancaster,  July  9-10. 

We  had  done  our  twenty-nine  miles  from  Preston 
and  reached  Lancaster  in  good  season.  There  we 
had  a  treat.  The  High  Sheriff  for  the  county  had 
just  been  elected  and  made  his  entry  into  town  ac- 
cording to  immemorial  custom.  He  represents  roy- 
alty in  the  county  during  his  term  of  office,  which  I 
believe  is  only  two  years.  It  costs  the  recipient  of 
the  honor  a  large  sum  to  maintain  the  dignities  of 
the  ofhce,  for  its  emoluments  are  nil.  The  sheriff  was 
staying  at  our  hotel,  a  very  fine  one.  The  County. 
He  is  wakened  every  morning  by  two  heralds  richly 
dressed  in  the  olden  style  and  bearing  halberds. 
They  stand  in  front  of  the  hotel  and  sound  their  . 
buofles  to  call  His  Highness  forth.  It  is  the  Lord 
Mayor's  procession  on  a  small  scale.  Nobody  laughs 
outright  at  the  curious  mixture  of  feudal  customs 
with  this  age's  requirements,  however  much  every- 
body may  laugh  in  his  sleeve  ;  but  England  will  have 
lost  some  picturesque  features  when  all  the  shams 
are  gone.  If  mankind  were  not  greatly  influenced 
by  forms,  I  could  wish  that  just  enough  of  the  "  good 
old  times" — which  were  very  bad  times  indeed — 
could  be  preserved,  if  only  to  prove  how  far  we  had 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  137 

outgrown  them;  but  every  "form  and  every  sham, 
from  royalty  downward,  carries  its  good  or  evil  with 
it.  That  not  only  the  substance  should  be  right,  but 
that  the  form  should  correspond  truly  to  it,  is  to  the 
last  degree  important;  so  I  reconcile  myself  to  the 
passing  away  of  forms  which  no  longer  honestly  rep- 
resent what  they  imply. 

Lancaster  is  a  beautiful  place  and  noted  for  its 
admirable  charitable  institutions.  The  lunatic  asy- 
lum and  an  orphanage  attracted  our  special  attention. 
These  and  kindred  institutions  abound  in  England, 
and  are  ably  conducted.  Rich  Englishmen  do  not 
leave  their  fortunes  for  uses  of  this  kind  as  often  as 
Americans  do.  The  ambition  to  found  a  family,  and 
the  maintenance  of  an  aristocratic  class  by  means  of 
primogeniture  and  entail,  tend  to  divert  fortunes 
from  this  nobler  path  into  the  meaner  end  of  elevating 
a  name  in  the  social  scale  ;  but  the  general  public  in 
Britain  is  most  generous,  and  immense  sums  in  the 
aggregate  arc  annually  collected  for  charitable  insti- 
tutions. It  is  common  for  a  class  to  support  its 
own  unfortunates.  The  commercial  travellers,  for 
instance,  have  an  extensive  home  near  London  for 
children  of  their  fellows  and  for  members  in  their 
old  age. 

One  cannot  travel  far  in  Britain  without  seeing 
that  the  British  arc  a  people  most  mindful  of  the  un- 
fortunate. These  pretty  homes  of  refuge  and  of 
rest  we  see  scattered  everywhere  over  the  land,  nor 
are  they  the  least  glorious  of  the  many  monuments 
of  England's  true  worth. 

A  Mr.  Ripley  left  his  fortune  for  an  orphanage, 
open  to  all  orphan  children  born  within  hftcen  miles 


138  OUR    COACHING   TRIP. 

of  Lancaster.  Three  hundred  are  now  provided  for, 
but  so  rapidly  has  the  fund  grown  that  it  has  been 
found  practicable  to  extend  the  boundaries  of  its  be- 
neficence, and  children  from  distant  Liverpool  are 
now  admitted.  Bravo  !  Mr.  Ripley.  What  is  an  earl- 
dom for  your  eldest  son  to  this  !  His  father's  name 
will  carry  him  farther  with  the  best,  and  he  should 
be  prouder  of  it.  Show  me  the  earl  who  has  done 
as  much  for  his  neighborhood. 

Lancaster  Castle  is  a  noble  one  ;  its  gateway  is  not 
surpassed.  Here  John  o'  Gaunt  hundreds  of  years 
ago  put  his  finger  upon  the  dire  root  of  England's 
woes,  as  far  as  the  land  goes  : 

"  This  dear,  dead  land, 
Dear  for  her  reputation  through  the  world, 
Is  now  leased  out." 

There  3'ou  have  it — this  England  is  leased  out. 
The  soil  is  not  worked  by  its  owners,  and  never,  till 
England  changes  its  practice  and  can  boast  a  peas- 
ant proprietary  working  its  own  acres  in  small  farms, 
untrammelled  by  vicious  laws,  will  she  know  what 
miracles  can  be  wrought  by  those  who  call  each  lit- 
tle spot  their  own — their  home.  Englishmen  are 
slow  to  change,  but  the  day  is  not  far  distant  when 
ownership  of  land  will  depend  upon  residence  on  it 
and  its  proper  cultivation.  Denmark's  example  will 
be  followed.  Cumulative  taxes  will  be  levied  upon 
each  number  of  acres  beyond  a  minimum  number, 
and  large  proprietors  taxed  out  of  existence  as  they 
have  been  in  Denmark,  to  the  country's  good  and 
nobody's  injury.  We  tax  a  man  who  keeps  racing- 
horses  or  who  sports  armorial  bearings.  It  is  the 
same  principle  :  we  can  tax  a  man  who  keeps  a  larger 


BRIGHTON    TO    INVERNESS.  139 

amount  of  land  than  he  can  work  to  the  State's  ad- 
vantage. The  rights  of  property  are  all  very  well 
in  their  place,  but  the  rights  of  man  and  thfe  good  of 
the  commonwealth  are  far  beyond  them.  I  wish 
England  would  just  let  me  arrange  that  little  land 
matter  for  her.  It  would  save  her  a  generation  of 
agitation. 

Sunday  was  spent  in  Lancaster,  and  much  en- 
joyed. The  service  in  church  was  fine  and  the  after- 
noon's excursion  to  the  country  delightful.  Here 
Miss  Amelia  Bantock  and  Mr.  Dickinson  left  us  after 
receiving  the  blessing  of  the  party.  Miss  Graham 
and  Miss  Dickinson,  who  were  to  join  us  here, 
failed  us,  but  we  fortunately  found  them  waiting  at 
Kendall.  We  started  for  that  town,  twenty-two 
miles  distant,  on  Monday  morning.  It  is  the  en- 
trance to  the  celebrated  Lake  District.  Messrs.  Thorn 
and  Middleton,  whom  we  had  met  at  Anderton  Hall, 
passed  us  before  we  reached  Lancaster  on  Saturday, 
on  bicycles.  They  were  out  for  a  run  of  a  hundred 
and  five  miles  that  day,  to  visit  friends  beyond  that 
city.  We  meet  such  travellers  often.  Their  club 
now  numbers  sev^en  thousand  members.  For  an  an- 
nual payment  of  half  a  crown  (62  cents),  a  member 
has  lists  of  routes  and  hotels  sent  him  for  any  de- 
sired district,  with  the  advantage  of  reduced  charges. 
It  is  nothing  to  do  a  hundred  miles  per  clay  ;  many 
have  done  London  to  Bath,  two  hundred  miles, 
within  the  twenty-four  hours. 

The  country  swarms  with  these  fellows.  I  saw 
fifteen  hundred  in  Bushy  Park  one  day  at  a  meet. 
I  think  seventy-five  clubs  were  there,  each  in  a 
different  uniform.     Bicycles  are  also  growing  in  use 


14°  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

for  practical  purposes,  and  many  post-routes  in  the 
country  are  served  by  men  who  use  these  machines. 
But  it  tal*es  roads  like  the  English,  and  a  level  coun- 
try, to  do  much  with  them. 

Our  evening  was  spent  in  visiting  the  ruined  cas- 
tle and  admiring  a  pretty  Japanese  kind  of  garden, 
so  much  in  so  little  space,  which  attracted  our  atten- 
tion as  we  passed.  The  owner,  Mr..  Thompson,  a 
solicitor,  kindly  invited  us  in,  and  afterward  showed 
us  his  house.  We  are  always  receiving  kindnesses 
from  all  sorts  and  conditions  of  men. 

Next  day,  July  12th,  our  objective  point  was 
Grassmere,  eighteen  miles  away.  Such  a  lovely 
morning  !  but,  indeed,  we  are  favored  beyond  meas- 
ure with  superb  weather  all  the  time.  This  stage  in 
our  progress  introduced  us  to  the  scenery  of  the  lakes, 
and  we  all  felt  that  it  deserved  its  Wordsworth  ;  but 
were  we  ever  to  let  loose  and  enter  the  descriptive, 
where  would  it  lead  ?  This  is  the  rock  upon  which 
many  a  fair  venture  in  story-telling  has  suffered  ship- 
wreck. Great  mountains  always  carr}*  one  upward, 
but  these  are  not  great,  nor  is  there  anything  great 
in  the  region.  All  is  very  sweet  and  pleasing  and 
has  its  own  peculiar  charm,  like  the  school  of  Lake 
Poets. 

At  Bowness,  about  midway  of  the  lake,  we  left  the 
coach  for  the  first  time  for  any  other  kind  of  con- 
veyance. After  enjoying  a  rare  treat  in  a  sail  up 
and  down  the  lake  in  the  pretty  steamer,  we  rejoined 
the  coach  at  Ambleside,  where  we  had  ordered  it  to 
await  us. 

Passing  Storr's  Hall,  the  mind  wandered  back  to 
the  meeting  there  of  Wordsworth,   Southey,  Cole- 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  141 

ridge,  Christopher  North,  and  greater  than  all,  our 
Walter  Scott ;  and  surel}'^  not  in  all  the  earth  could  a 
fitter  spot  than  this  have  been  found  for  their  gath- 
ering. How  much  the  world  of  to-day  owes  to  the 
few  names  who  spent  da3^s  together  here  !  Not  often 
can  you  say  of  one  little  house,  "  Here  had  we  our 
country's  honor  roofed,"  to  so  great  an  extent 
as  it  would  be  quite  allowable  to  say  in  this  in- 
stance. But  see  the  vanity  of  human  aspirations! 
If  there  was  one  wish  dearer  than  another  to  the 
ofreatest  of  these  men,  it  was  that  Abbotsford  should 
remain  from  generation  to  generation  the  home  of 
his  race.  This  very  hour,  while  sa.iling  on  the 
lake,  a  newspaper  was  handed  to  me,  and  my 
eye  caught  the  advertisement,  "  Abbotsford  to 
let,"  followed  by  the  stereotyped  description,  so 
many  reception-rooms,  nursery,  outbuildings,  and 
offices,  suitable  for  a  gentleman's  establishment. 
Shade  of  the  mighty  Wizard  of  the  North,  has  it  come 
to  this  !  Oh,  the  pity  of  it  !  the  pity  of  it  !  Well 
for  your  fame  that  vou  built  ior  mankind  other  than 
this  statel}^  home  of  your  pride.  It  will  crumble  and 
pass  utterh'  away  long  before  the  humble  cot  of 
Jeannie  Deans  shall  fade  Irom  the  memory  of  man. 
The  time  will  come  when  the  greatest  will  be  as 
much  forgot 

"  As  the  canoe  that  crossed  a  lonely  lake 
A  thousand  years  ago." 

But  even  the  New  Zealander  who  stands  on  the 

ruins   of   London    Bridge  will    knovv    something   of 

Walter    Scott    if    he    knows    much   worth   knowing. 

"  Abbotsford  to  let  !"    This  to  come  to  me  just  as  we 

10 


142  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

were  passing  one  of  the  haunts  of  Scott,  than  whom 
no  greater  Scot  ever  hv^ed  save  one.  Fortunately 
no  such  blow  is  possible  for  the  memory  of  Burns. 

"  Afterlife's  fitful  fever,  he  sleeps  well  ; 
Treason  has  done  his  worst  :  nor  steel,  nor  poison, 

Malice  domestic, nothing. 

Can  touch  him  further!" 

For  this  let  us  be  thankful.  We  visited  Words- 
worth's grave  reverently  in  the  twilight.  Fresh, 
very  fresh  flowers  lay  upon  it.  God  bless  the  hand 
that  strewed  them  there  this  day  !  I  think  the  follow- 
ing the  one  very  great  thing  he  gave  the  world  : 
It  contains  "the  golden  guess  which  ever  is  the 
morning  star  to  the  full  round  of  truth."  The 
thought  of  the  age— whether  right  or  wrong  we 
need  not  discuss — is  hitherward  : 

"  For  I  have  learned 
To  look  on  Nature,  not  as  in  the  hour 
Of  thoughtless  youth  ;  but  hearing  oftentimes 
The  still,  sad  music  of  humanity. 
Not  harsh  nor  grating,  though  of  ample  power 
lo  chasten  and  subdue.     And  I  have  felt 
A  presence  that  disturbs  me  with  the  joy 
Of  elevated  thoughts  :  a  sense  sublime 
Of  something  far  more  deeply  interfused. 
Whose  dwelling  is  the  light  of  setting  suns, 
And  the  round  ocean,  and  the  living  air, 
And  the  blue  sky,  and  in  the  mind  of  man 
A  motion  and  a  spirit  that  impels 
All  thinking  things,  all  objects  of  all  thought, 
And  rolls  through  all  things." 

There's  a  platform  upon  which  this  sceptical  age 
may  eventually  stand.  It  is  not  materialistic  and  it 
is  not  dogmatic  ;  perhaps  it  is  the  golden  mean  be- 
tween extremes.     I  commend  its  teachings  to  both 


BRIGHTON    rO   INVERNESS.  I43 

sides  of  the  cocksure  disputants,  one  of  whom 
knows  it  is  all  just  so,  and  the  other  as  presumptu- 
ously knows  there  is  nothing  to  know.  Let  them 
shake  hands  and  await  patiently  the  coming  of 
clearer  light,  and  get  together  in  solid  work  here. 
Surely  there  is  enough  to  keep  them  busy.  We  stilJ 
"  see  through  a  glass  darkly." 

We  spent  our  night  at  Grassmerc,  and  had  a  fine 
row  upon  the  lake. 

Grassmere,  July  13. 
"  Right,  Perry  !"  Off  for  Keswick,  only  twelve 
miles  distant  ;  but  who  wants  to  hurry  away  from 
scenes  like  these  ?  It  rained  heavily  through  the 
niofht,  but  is  errand  for  us  this  morning.  The  mist 
was  on  the  mountains  though,  and  the  clouds  passed 
slowly  over  them,  wrapping  the  tops  in  their  mantle. 
The  numerous  rills  dashing  down  the  bare  mountains 
were  the  themes  of  much  praise.  They  reminded 
me  of  two  fine  verses  from  the  "  Light  of  Asia"  upon 
"  Being's  ceaseless  tide  "  : 

"  Wliich,  ever-changing,  runs,  linked  like  a  river 

By  ripples  following  ripples,  fast  or  slow — 
The  same,  )-et  not  the  same — from  far-off  fountains 

To  where  its  waters  flow 
Into  the  seas.     These,  steaming  to  the  sun. 

Give  the  lost  wavelets  back  in  c'oudy  fleece 
To  trickle  down  the  hills,  and  glide  again  ; 

Knowing  no  pause  or  peace," 

W^e  seem  to  be  miraculously  protected  from  rain. 
Many  times  it  has  poured  during  the  night,  and  yet 
the  days  have  been  perfect.  "  Carnegie  weather" 
begins  to  be  talked  about,  and  wc  are  all  disposed  to 
accept  the  inference  that  tiic  fair  goddess  Fortune 


144  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

has  fallen  deep  in    love   with   us,  since   Prosperity 
seems  to  be  our  page  during-  this  journey. 

The  influence  of  America  and  of  American  ideas 
upon  England  is  seen  in  various  ways.  We  meet 
frequently  one  who  has  visited  the  Republic,  whose 
advanced  ideas,  in  consequence  of  the  knowledge  de- 
rived from  actual  contact  with  American  affairs,  are 
very  decidedlv  proclaimed.  The  coaches  in  the  Lake 
District  have  now  the  English  and  the  American 
flags  upon  their  sides,  and  we  often  see  the  Stars 
and  Stripes  displayed  at  hotels.  Our  present  hos- 
telry has  a  flaming  advertisement  ending  with  : 
"  Patrons  —  Royalty  and  American  Presidents." 
There  must  be  slender  grounds  for  both  claims, 
I  fancy.  General  Gi'ant,  however,  may  have  been 
there.  As  the  elected  of  the  largest  division  of 
the  English-speaking  race,  he  no  doubt  outranked 
all  other  patrons. 

At  luncheon  to-day  it  was  found  that  our  drink- 
ables had  better  be  cooled  in  the  brook — an  unusual 
performance  this  for  England  ;  but  how  vividly  this 
little  incident  brings  to  mind  the  happy  scene — the 
row  of  bottles  in  the  stream,  sticking  up  their  tiny 
heads  as  if  resentful  at  the  extraordinary  bath.  Do 
not  imagine  that  our  party  were  worse  to  water  than 
to  corn  ;  sixteen  hungry  people  need  a  good  many 
bottles  of  various  kinds,  for  we  had  man}^  tastes  to 
gratify.  We  were  all  temperance  people,  however — 
a  few  of  us  even  total  abstinence,  who  required  spe- 
cial attention. 

At  Keswick  I  wandered  round  the  principal 
square  and  laughed  at  the  curious  names  of  the 
inns   there.     In    this  region    inns   abound.     Almost 


BRIGIITOM    TO  INVERNESS.  145 

every  house    in   that   square  offered    entertainment 
for  man  and  beast.      Here  is  a   true  copy  of  names 
of    inns    noted    in    a    few    squares   in    the    village  : 
Fighting    Cocks,    Packhorse,    Red    Lion,    Dog   and 
Duck,  Black  Lion,  Deerhound,  White   Hart,  Green 
Lion,    Pig   and   Whistle,    White    Lion,    Black    Bulk 
Elephant  and    Castle,    Lamb  and    Lark,   The    Fish. 
If  the  whole  village  were  scanned  there  would  be 
beasts  enough  commemorated  in  its  inns  to  make  a 
respectable  menagerie.      Indeed,  for  that  one  Green 
Lion,  Barnum  might  safely  pay  more  than  for  Jumbo. 
The  names  of  English  inns  we  have  seen  else- 
where are  equally  odd;  let  me  note  a  few  :  Hen  and 
Chickens,  Dog  and  Doublet,  King  and  Crown,  Hole 
in  the  Wall,    Struggling   Man,  Jonah   and  the   Ark, 
Angel  and    Woolsack,    Adam    and   Eve,    Rose  and 
Crown,   Crown  and  Cushion.     We  laughed  at  one 
with  an  old-fashioned  swinging  sign,  upon  which  a 
groom    was  scrubbing  away  at  a  naked  black  man 
(you    could  almost    hear   his    pruss,    pruss,    pruss). 
The  name  of  the  house  was  "  Labor  in  Vain  Inn" — a 
perfect  illustration,   no  doubt,  in  one  sense  ;  in  the 
higher  sense,  not  so.     Under  the  purifying  influences 
of   equality,    found    only   in  republican  institutions, 
America  has  taught  the   world   she   can   soon   make 
white  men  out  of  black.      Her  effort  to   change  the 
slave  into  a  freeman  has  been  anything  but  labor  in 
vain  ;  what  is  under  the  skin   can   be   made   white 
enough  always,  if  we  go  at  it  with  the   right   brush. 
None  genuine  unless  stamped  with  the  well-known 
brand  "Republic."     "All   men   arc  born  free  and 
equaV'  warranted  to  cure  the   most  desperate  cases 
when  all  other  panaceas  fail,  from  a  mild  monarch}' 


146  OUR   COACHING    TRIP. 

up  to  a  German  despotism.  To  be  well  shaken, 
however,  before  taken,  and  applied  internally,  exter- 
nally, and  eternally,  like  Colonel  Sellers'  eye-wash. 
Harry  and  I  were  absent  part  of  this  day,  having 
run  down  to  Workington  to  see  our  friend  Mr. 
Gardiner,  at  the  Steel  Rail  Mills.  Pardon  us  ! — 
this  was  our  onl}^  taste  of  business  during  the  trip  ; 
never  had  the  affairs  of  this  world,  or  of  any  other 
for  that  matter,  been  so  completely  banished  from 
our  thoughts.  To  get  back  to  blast-furnaces  and 
rolling-mills  was  distressing  ;  but  we  could  not  well 
pass  our  friend's  door,  so  to  speak.  We  have  noth- 
ing to  say  about  manufacturing,  for  it  is  just  with  that 
as  with  their  political  institutions  :  England  keeps 
about  a  generation  behind,  and  yet  deludes  herself 
with  the  idea  that  she  is  a  leader  among  nations. 
The  truth  is  she  is  not  even  a  good  follower  where 
others  lead,  but  exceptions  must  be  noted  here  :  a 
few  of  her  ablest  men  are  not  behind  America  in 
manufacturing,  for  there  are  one,  or  perhaps  two, 
establishments  in  Ena^land  which  lead  America.  A 
great  race  is  the  British  when  they  do  go  to  work 
and  get  rid  of  their  antiquated  prejudices.  Visitors 
to  America  like  Messrs.  Howard,  Lothian  Bell,  Wind- 
sor Richards,  Martin,  and  others,  have  no  preju- 
dices which  stick.  Let  Uncle  Sam  look  out.  If  he 
thinks  John  Bull  will  remain  behind  in  the  industrial 
or  the  political  race  either,  I  do  not  ;  and  I  believe 
when  he  sets  to  work  in  earnest  he  cannot  be 
beaten.  The  Republic  of  England,  when  it  comes, 
will  excel  all  other  republics  as  much  as  the  English 
monarchy  has  excelled  all  other  monarchies,  or  as 
much  as  Windsor  Richards'  steel  practice  and  plant 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  147 

excel  any  we  can  boast  of  here  at  present.  It  is  our 
turn  now  to  take  a  step  forward,  unless  we  are  con- 
tent to  be  beaten.  This  is  all  right.  Long  may  the 
two  branches  of  the  family  stimulate  each  other  to 
further  triumphs,  the  elder  encouraging-  us  to  hold 
fast  that  which  is  good,  the  younger'  pointing  the 
way  upward  and  onward — a  race  in  which  neither 
can  lose,  but  in  which  both  must  win  !  Clear  the 
course  !     Fair  play  and  victory  to  both  ! 

The  annual  public  debate  of  University  College, 
London,  attracted  our  notice  to-day  before  leaving 
Kendal.  The  subject  debated  was  :  "  That  the  ad- 
vance of  Democracy  in  England  will  tend  to 
strengthen  the  Foundations  of  Society." 

Lord  Rosebery  presided,  and  it  is  his  speech  at 
the  close  which  possesses  political  significance  a? 
coming  from  one  who  wears  his  rank 

"  For  the  sake  of  liberal  uses 
And  of  great  things  to  be  done," 

and  of  whom  almost  any  destiny  may  be  predicted  if 
he  hold  the  true  course.      He  said  : 

"  As  regards  government,  there  seemed  to  be 
great  advantage  in  democracy.  With  an  oligarchy 
the  responsibility  was  too  great  and  the  penalty  for 
failure  too  high.  He  did  not  share  the  asperity 
manifested  by  one  .of  the  speakers  against  American 
institutions,  and,  having  visited  the  country  on  sev- 
eral occasions,  he  felt  the  greatest  warmth  for  Amer- 
ica and  the  American  people.  Persons  who  elect- 
ed by  free  choice  a  moderate  intellect  to  represent 
them  were  better  off  than  those  who  had  a  leviathan 
intellect  placed  over  them  against  their  will,  and  this 
free  choice  the  people  of  the  United  States  possessed. 


148  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

It  had  been  said  by  the  opponents  of  democracy 
that  the  best  men  in  America  devoted  themselves 
to  money-getting  ;  but  this  was  a  strong  argument 
in  its  favor,  as  showing  that  democracy  was  not 
correctly  represented  as  a  kind  of  grabbing  at  the 
property  of  others."  - 

Never  were  truer  words  spoken  than  these,  my 
lord.  What  a  pity  vou  were  not  allowed  the  privi- 
lege of  starting  "at  scratch"  in  life's  race,  like 
Gladstone  or  Disraeli.  From  any  success  achieved 
there  must  be  made  the  just  deduction  for  so  many 
yards  allowed  Lord  Rosebery.  Receive  the  sincere 
condolences  of  him  who  welcomed  you  to  honorary 
membership  of  the  Burns  Club  of  New  York — not 
because  of  these  unfortunate,  unfair  disadvantages, 
for  he  would  not  have  welcomed  a  prince  for  his 
rank,  but  for  3^our  merits  as  a  man. 

We  reached  Penrith  July  14th,  after  a  delightful 
day's  drive.  Never  were  the  Gay  Charioteers  hap- 
pier, for  the  hilly  ground  gave  us  many  opportunities 
for  grand  walks.  When  these  come  it  is  a  red-letter 
day.  The  pleasure  of  walking  should  rank  as  one  of 
the  seven  distinct  pleasures  of  existence,  and  yet  I 
have  some  friends  who  know  nothing  of  them  ;  they 
are  not  coaching  through  England,  however. 

I  have  omitted  to  chronicle  the  change  that  came 
over  the  Queen  Dowager  shortly  after  we  started 
from  Wolverhampton;  till  then  she  had  kept  the  seat 
of  honor  next  to  Perry,  inviting  one  after  another  as 
a  special  honor  to  sit  in  front  with  her.  She  soon 
discovered  that  a  good  deal  of  the  fun  going  on  was 
missed  ;  besides,  she  had  not  all  of  us  under  her  eye. 
^ler  seat  was  exchanged  for  the  middle  of  the  back 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  149 

form,  where  she  was  supported  by  one  on  each  side, 
while  four  others  had  their  faces  turned  to  hers, 
giving  an  audience  of  no  less  than  six  for  her  stories 
and  old  ballads.  Her  tongue  went  from  morning  till 
night,  if  I  do  say  it,  and  her  end  of  the  coach  was 
always  in  for  its  share  of  any  frolic  stirring.  She 
was  "in  a  gale"  all  day  to-day,  and  kept  us  all 
roaring. 


Penrith,  July  14. 

Our  next  stage  would  take  us  to  Carlisle,  the 
border-town  behind  which  lay  the  sacred  soil.  Mr. 
Burroughs  and  his  son  joined  us  here  and  went  on 
with  us  the  last  day  upon  English  soil,  waving  adieu, 
as  it  were,  as  we  plunged  into  Scotland.  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  King  left  us  for  Paisley  to  see  the  children, 
and  what  a  loss  I  here  record  no  one  but  the  mem- 
bers can  possibly  understand.  Aaleck  and  Aggie 
gone  !  If  anything  could  long  dampen  the  joyous 
spirits  of  the  party,  this  separation  surely  would 
have  done  it  ;  but  we  were  to  meet  again  in  Edin- 
burgh, where  the  reconstruction  of  the  Charioteers 
was  to  take  place.  At  Carlisle,  too,  the  Parisians 
were  to  be  welcomed  back  again — -plenty  to  look 
forward  to,  you  see.  We  started  for  Carlisle  July 
15th,  the  day  superb  as  usual. 

We  had  left  the  Lake  District,,  with  its  hills  and 
flowing  streams,  to  pass  through  a  tamer  land  ;  but 
ourlunciieon  to-day,  in  a  field  near  "  Ilesketh  in  the 
Forest,"  was  not  unromantic.  The  members  from 
Anderton  Hall  caught  the  fever,  as  was  usual  with 
neophytes,  and  regretted  that  their  return  was  im- 
peratively required.  One  day  gave  them  a  taste  of 
tiic  true  gypsy  life. 


I50  OUR   COACHING    TRIP. 

Carlisle,  July  15. 

Here  is  reconstruction  for  you  with  a  vengeance  ! 
First,  let  us  mourn  the  unhappy  departures  :  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  King-  went  yesterday,  and  Miss  Reid,  Miss 
Graham,  the  Misses  Bantock,  Miss  Dickinson,  and 
Mr.  Burroughs  and  son  go  to-day.  Cousin  Maggie, 
who  had  become  absorbed  in  this  kind  of  life,  so 
dazed  with  happiness,  her  turn  has  come  too,  even 
she  must  go  ;  Andrew  Martin,  with  his  fine  Scotch 
aroma  and  his  songs,  must  report  to  his  superior 
officer  at  the  encampment,  for  is  he  not  a  gallant 
volunteer  and  an  officer  under  Her  Majest3^  "  sworn 
never  to  desert  his  home  except  in  case  of  in- 
vasion" !  Well,  we  cannot  help  these  miserable 
changes  in  this  world,  nor  the  "  sawt,  sawt  tears  "  of 
the  young  ladies  as  they  kiss  each  other,  swearing 
eternal  friendship,  and  sob  good-byes. 

But  if  farewell  ever  sighs,  welcome  comes  in 
smiling.  Look  !  Cousin  Eliza  in  my  arms  and  a 
warm  kiss  taken  !'  That  is  the  very  best  of  conso- 
lation. Clever,  artistic  Miss  Roxburgh,  too,  from 
Edinburgh  ;  and  then  are  we  not  to  have  our  four 
originals  back  again,  after  two  long  weeks'  absence  ! 
It  was  a  fortunate  thing  that  our  sad  farewells  were 
so  promptly  followed  by  smiling  welcomes. 

Do  any  people  love  their  country  as  passionately 
as  the  Scotch  ?  I  mean  the  earth  of  it,  the  very 
atoms  of  which  its  hills  and  glens  are  composed.  I 
doubt  it.  Now  here  is  Maggie,  a  douse,  quick, 
sensible  girl.  I  tried  to  say  something  cheery  to  her 
to-day  as  we  were  approaching  Carlisle,  where  we 
were  to  part,  reminding  her  jokingly  that  she  had 
received  five  weeks'  coaching  while  her  poor  sister 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  151 

Eliza  would  have  only  two.  "Ah!  but  she  has 
Scotland,  Naig  !"  "  Do  you  really  mean  to  tell  me 
that  you  would  rather  have  two  weeks  in  your  own 
country  than  five  weeks  seeing  a  hew  land,  and  that 
land  England,  with  London  and  Brighton,  and  the 
lakes  and  all  ?"  I  just  wish  you  could  have  seen  and 
heard  how  the  "Of  course"  came  in  reply.  The 
Scotch  always  have  Scotland  first  in  their  hearts, 
and  some  of  them,  I  really  believe,  will  get  into 
trouble  criticising  Paradise  if  it  be  found  to  differ 
materially  from  Scotland. 

To-morrow  we  are  to  enter  that  land  of  lands. 
Fair  England,  farewell  !  How  graciously  kind  has 
been  the  reception  accorded  b^  you  to  the  wan- 
derers !  Flow  beautiful  you  are  !  how  tenderl}^  dear 
you  have  become  to  all  of  us  !  Not  one  of  us  but 
can  close  our  eyes  and  revel  in  such  quiet  beauty 
as  never  before  was  ours. 

"  Not  a  grand  nature  ... 

On  English  ground 
You  understand  the  letter  .   .   .   ere  the  fall 
How  Adam  lived  in  a  garden.     All  the  fields 
Are  tied  up  fast  with  hedges,  nosegay  like  ; 
The  hills  are  crumpled  plains — the  plains  pastures, 
And  if  you  seei<  for  any  wilderness 
You  find  at  best  a  park.     A  nature 
Tamed  and  grown  domestic  .  .  . 
A  sweet  familiar  nature,  stealing  in 
As  a  dog  might,  or  child,  to  touch  your  hand, 
Or  pluck  your  gown,  and  humbly  mind  you  so 
Of  presence  and  afiection." 

"  There  is  no  farewell  to  scenes  like  thine." 
From  the  depths  of  every  heart  in  our  company 
comes  the  trembling  "  God  bless  you,  England  I" 


OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 


SCOTLAND. 

"  Awa}--,  ye  gay  landscapes,  ye  gardens  of  roses  ! 

In  you  let  the  minions  of  luxury  rove  ; 
Restore  me  the  rocks  where  the  snovvflake  reposes, 

Thougli  still  they  are  sacred  to  freedom  and  love  : 
Yet,  Caledonia,  beloved  are  thy  mountains, 

Round  their  white  summits  though  elements  war  ; 
Though  cataracts  foam  'stead  of  smooth  flowing  fountains, 

I  sigh  for  the  valley  of  dark  Loch  na  Garr." 

It  was  on  Saturday,  July  i6th,  that  we  went  over 
the  border,  Mr.  Wilson,  the  coach-owner,  going  with 
us,  on  his  way  to  his  native  town. 

The  bridge  across  the  boundary-line  was  soon 
reached.  When  midway  over  a  halt  was  called,  and 
vent  given  to  our  enthusiasm.  With  three  cheers 
for  the  land  of  the  heather,  shouts  of  "  Scotland  for- 
ever," and  the  waving  of  hats  and  handkerchiefs,  we 
dashed  across  the  border.  And,  oh  Scotland,  my 
own,  my  native  land,  your  exiled  son  returns  with 
love  for  you  as  ardent  as  ever  warmed  the  heart  of 
man  for  his  country.  It's  a  God's  mercy  I  was  born 
a  Scotchman,  for  I  do  not  see  how  I  could  ever 
have  been  contented  to  be  anything  else.  The  little 
plucky  dour  deevil,  set  in  her  own  ways  and  getting 
them  too,  level-headed  and  shrewd,  ^vith  an  eye  to 
the  main  chance  always  and  yet  so  lovingly  weak, 
so  fond,  so  led  away  by  song  or  storj-,  so  easily 
touched  to  fine  issues,  so  leal,  so  true  !  Ah  !  you 
suit  me,  Scotia,  and  proud  am  I  that  I  am  your  son. 

We  stopped  at  Gretna  Green,  of  course,  and 
walked  to   the  site  of  the  famous  blacksmith-shop, 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  153 

where  so  many  romantic  pairs  have  been  duly  joined 
in  the  holy  bonds  of  wedlock.  A  wee  laddie  acted 
as  guide,  and  from  him  we  had  our  first  real  broad 
Scotch.  His  dialect  was  perfect.  He  brought  wee 
Davie  to  mind  at  •once.  I  offered  him  a  shilling  if 
he  could  "  screed  me  aff  effectual  calling."  He  knew 
his  catechism,  but  he  could  not  understand  it. 
Never  mind  that,  Davie,  that  is  another  matter. 
Older  heads  than  yours  have  bothered  over  that 
doctrine  and  never  got  to  the  bottom  of  it.  Besides 
there  will  be  a  "  revised  edition"  of  that  before  you 
are  a  man.  Just  you  let  it  alone  ;  it  is  the  understand- 
ing of  that  and  some  other  dogmas  of  poor  ignorant 
man's  invention  that  thin  the  churches  of  men  who 
think  and  "  make  of  sweet  religior^  a  rhapsody  of 
words."  "  But  do  you  ken  Burns  ?"  "  Aye,"  said 
Davie,  "I  ken  '  A  man's  a  man  for  a'  that,'  and 
'  Auld  Lang  S3me.'  "  "  Good  for  you,  Davie,  there's 
another  shilling.  Good-bye  !  But  I  say,  Davie,  if 
you  can't  possibly  remember  all  three  of  these 
pieces,  don't  let  it  be  '  A  man's  a  man  for  a'  that' 
that  you  forget,  for  vScotchmen  will  need  to  re- 
member that  one  of  these  days  when  we  begin  to  set 
things  to  rights  in  earnest  and  demand  the  same  right 
for  prince,  peer,  and  peasant.  Don't  let  it  be 
*  Auld  Lang  Syne '  either,  for  there  is  more  of 
'  Peace  and  Good-will  upon  Earth,'  the  essence 
of  true  religion,  in  that  grand  song,  than  in  your 
effectual  calling,  Davie,  my  wee  mannie.  At  least 
there  is  one  who  thinks  so."  Davie  got  my  address, 
and  said  maybe  he  would  come  to  America  when 
he  grew  to  be  a  man.  I  promised  to  give  him  a 
chance  if  he  had  not  forgotten  Burns,  which  is  all  we 


T54  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

can  do  in  the  republic,  where  merit  is  the  only  road 
to  success.  We  may  make  a  Republican  out  of  him 
yet,  and  have  him  return  to  his  fellows  to  preach  the 
equality  of  man,  the  sermon  Scotland  needs. 

We  lunched  at  Annan.  It  was  at  first  decided 
that  we  had  better  be  satisfied  with  hotel  accommoda- 
tions, as  the  day  though  fine  was  cool,  with  that  little 
nip  in  the  air  which  gives  it  the  bracing  quality  ;  but 
after  we  had  entered  the  hotel  the  sun  burst  forth, 
and  the  longing  for  the  green  fields  could  not  be 
overcome.  We  walked  through  the  village  across 
the  river,  and  found  a  pretty  spot  in  a  grove  upon 
high  ground  commanding  extensive  views  up  and 
down  the  stream,  and  there  we  gave  our  new  mem- 
bers their  first*  luncheon.  It  would  have  been  a 
great  pity  had  we  missed  this  picnic,  for  it  was  in 
every  respect  up  to  the  standard.  I  laugh  as  I  re- 
call the  difificulties  encountered  in  selecting  the  fine 
site.  The  committee  had  fixed  upon  a  tolerably 
good  location  in  a  field  near  the  river,  but  this  knoll 
was  in  sight,  and  we  were  tempted  to  go  to  it.  We 
had  gone  so  far  from  the  hotel  where  the  coach  was, 
that  Perry  and  Joe  had  to  get  a  truck  to  bring  the 
hampers.  I  remember  seeing  them  pushing  it 
across  the  bridge  and  up  against  the  wall  over  which 
most  of  us  had'  clambered.  When  mother's  turn 
came  the  wall  was  found  to  be  rather  too  much  for 
her,  but  our  managers  were  versatile.  The  truck 
was  brought  into  requisition,  and  mother  having 
mounted  upon  it  was  safely  drawn  from  its  platform 
over  the  wall.  I  stood  back  and  could  do  nothing 
for  laughter,  but  mother,  who  was  not  to  be  daunt- 
ed, went  over  amid  the  cheers  of  the  party.     It  was 


I 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  155 

resolved,  however,  to  be  a  little  more  circumspect  in 
future  ;  wall-climbing  at  seventy-one  has  its  limits. 

Here  is  the  bridge  built  by  that  worthy  man  and 
excellent  representative  of  what  is  best  in  Scottish 
character  in  lowly  life,  James  Carlyle — an  honest 
brig  destined  to  stand  and  never  shame  the  builder. 
I  remember  how  proudly  Carlyle  speaks  of  his  fa- 
ther's work.  No  sham  about  either  the  man  or  his 
work,  as  little  as  there  was  in  his  more  famous  son. 

Many  have  expressed  surprise  at  Carlyle's  Remi- 
niscences, at  the  gnarled,  twisted  oak  they  show, 
prejudiced  here,  ill-tempered  there.  What  did  such 
people  expect,  I  wonder.  A  poor,  reserved,  proud 
Scotch  lad,  who  had  to  fight  his  way  against  the  grim 
devils  of  poverty  and  neglect,  of  course  he  is  twisted 
and  "  thrawn  ";  but  a  grand,  tough  oak  for  all  that, 
as  sound,  stanch  timber  as  ever  grew,  and  Scotch 
to  the  core.  Did  any  one  take  you,  Thomas  Car- 
lyle, for  a  fine,  symmetrical  sycamore,  or  a  graceful 
clinging  vine  ?  I  think  the  Reminiscences,  upon  the 
whole,  a  valuable  contribution  to  literature.  Nor 
has  Carlyle  suffered  in  my  estimation  from  knowing 
so  much  of  Avhat  one  might  have  expected.  But  will 
these  critics  of  a  grand  individuality  be  kind  enough 
to  tell  us  when  we  shall  look  upon  his  like  again,  or 
where  is  another  Jenny  Carlyle  to  come  from  ?  She 
is  splendid  !  The  little  tot  who  "  blooded  a  laddie's 
nose"  with  her  closed  fist  and  conquered  "  the  lub- 
bley  jock."  This  was  in  her  early  childhood's  days, 
and  look  at  her  woman's  work  for  Carlyle  if  you 
want  a  pattern  for  wives,  my  young  lady  friends, 
at  least  as  a  bachelor  pictures  wifehood  at  its  best. 
The  story  told  of   Mr.    Black's   meeting  with  Car- 


156  ^     OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

lyle  should  be  true,  if  it  be  not.  "  Oh,  Mr.  Black," 
exclaimed  Carlyle,  "I'm  glad  to  see  ye,  man.  I've 
read  some  of  yer  books  ;  they're  veraamiisin'  ;  ye  ken 
Scotch  scenery  well  ;  but  when  are  ye  goin'  to  do 
some  zva7'k,  man?  "  Great  work  did  the  old  man  do 
in  his  day,  no  doubt  ;  but  they  also  work  who  plant 
the  roses,  Thomas,  else  were  we  little  better  than 
the  beasts  of  the  field.     Carlyle  did  not  see  this. 


Dumfries,  July  16-17. 
We  were  at  Dumfries  for  Sunday.  We  had  just 
got  housed  at  the  hotel  and  sat  down  to  dinner  when 
we  heard  a  vehicle  stop,  and  running  to  the  window 
saw  our  anxiously  expected  Parisians  at  the  door. 
Hurrah  !  welcome  !  welcome  !  Once  more  united, 
never  to  part  again  till  New  York  was  reached  !  It 
was  a  happy  meeting  and  there  was  much  to  tell  upon 
both  sides,  but  the  coachers  evidently  had  the  better 
of  it.  The  extreme  heat  encountered  in  France  had 
proved  very  trying.  Jeannie  and  Ben  were  tired 
out,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  McCargo  looked  somewhat  better, 
for  they  had  been  a  few  days  among  Davie's  "  for- 
bears" in  the  South  of  Scotland  and  had  recuper- 
ated. Jeannie  vividly  expressed  her  feehngs  thus, 
when  asked  how  she  had  enjoyed  Hfe  since  she 
left  the  Ark:  ''Left  the  Ark!  I  felt  as  if  I 
had  been  poked  out  of  it  like  the  dove  to  find 
out  about  the  weather,  and  had  found  it  rough. 
When  I  lose  sight  of  the  coach  again  just  let  me 
know  it  !"  We,  on  our  part,  were  very  glad 
to  get  our  pretty  little  dove  back,  and  promised 
that  she  should  never  be  sent  forth  from  among  us 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  157 

ae-ain.     One  becomes  confused  at  Dumfries,  there  is 
SO  much  to  learn.     We  are  upon  historic  ground  in 
the  fullest  sense,  and  so  crowded  too  with  notable 
men  and  events.     Bruce  slew  the  Red  Comyn  here- 
in the  church  of  tlie    iNIinorite  Friars  ;    Admirable 
Crichton,   Paul  Jones,   Allan  Cunningham,   Carlyle, 
Neilson  of  the  Hot  Blast,  Patterson,  founder  of  the 
Bank  of  England,  and  Miller  of  the  steamship,  are  all 
of  the  district  ;  and  still  another,  a  Scotch  minister, 
was  the  founder  of  savings  banks.     While  not  forget- 
ting to  urge  his  flock  to  lay  up  treasures  in  another 
world,  he  did  not  fail  to  impress  upon   them  a  like 
necessity  of  putting  by  a  competence  for  this   one, 
sensible  man  !      How  many  ministers  leave  behind 
them  as  powerful  an  agency  for  the  improvement  of 
the  masses  as  this  Dumfries  man,  the  Rev.  Mr.  Dun- 
can, has  in  savings  banks  ?    All  the  speculative  opin- 
ions about  the  other  world  which  man  can  indulge  in 
are    as    nothing   to  the  acquisition    of   those  good, 
sober,  steady  habits  which  render  possible  upon  the 
part  of  the  wage-receiving  class  a  good  deposit  in 
that  minister's  savings  bank.     The  Rev.   Mr.  Dun- 
can is  my  kind  of  minister,  one  who  works  much  and 
preaches  little.     There  is  room  fin-  more  of  his  kind. 
It  is  to  Dumfries   we  are  also  indebted   for  the 
steamship,  as  far  as  Britain's  share  in  that  crowning 
triumph    is    concerned,   for  upon   Dalwinston   Lake 
Miller  used  the  first  paddles  turned  by  steam.     The 
ofreat  magician   also  has  waved   his   wand  over  this 
district.    Ellangowan  Castle,  Dirk  Hatteraick's  Cave, 
and  even  Old  Mortality  himself  are  all  of  Dumfries  ; 
and  as  for  Burns  there  is  more  of  his  best  work  there 
than  anywhere  else,  and  there, he  lies  at  rest  with  the 
II 


153 


OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 


thistle  waving  over  him,  fit  mourner  for  Scotland's 
greatest  son,  and  of  all  others  the  one  he  would  have 
chosen.  How  he  loved  it !  Think  of  his  lines  about 
the  emblem  dear,  written  while  still  a  boy. 

I  wanted  to  stay  a  week  in  Dumfries,  and  I 
deemed,  myself  fortunate  to  be  able  to  spend  Sunday 
there.  Two  Dunfermline  gentlemen  now  resident 
there,  Messrs.  Reid  and  Alston,  were  kind  enough 
to  call  upoii  us  and  offer  their  services.  This  was 
thoughtful  and  pleased  me  much.  Accordingly  on 
Sunday  morning  we  started  with  Mr.  Reid  and  did 
the  town,  Maxwelton  Braes,  Burns's  house,  and  last 
his  grave.  None  of  us  had  ever  been  there  before, 
and  we  were  glad  to  make  the  pilgrimage.  Horace 
Greeley  (how  he  did  worship  Burns  !)  has  truly  said 
that  of  the  thousands  who  yearly  visit  Shakes- 
peare's birthplace,  most  are  content  to  engrave  their 
names  with  a  diamond  upon  the  glass,  but  few  indeed 
leave  the  resting-place  of  the  ploughman  without 
dropping  a  tear  upon  the  grave  ;  for  of  all  men  he  it 
was  who  nestled  closest  to  the  bosom  of  humanity.  It 
is  true  that  of  all  the  children  of  men  Burns  is  the  best 
beloved.  Carlyle  knew  him  well,  for  he  said  Burns 
was  the  yEolian  harp  of  nature  against  which  the 
rude  winds  of  adversity  blew,  only  to  be  transmitted 
in  their  passage  into  heavenly  music. 

I  think  these  are  the  two  finest  things  that  have 
been  said  about  our  idol,  or  about  any  idol,  and  I 
believe  them  to  be  deserved.  So  did  Carljde  and 
Greeley,  for  they  were  not  flatterers.  Of  what  other 
human  being  could  these  two  things  be  truly  said  ? 
I  know  of  none. 

Our  friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Nelson,  are  the  fortu- 


BRIGHTON   TO  INVERNESS.  159 

nate   owners   of   Friars   Carse  estate.     They   called 
upon  us  Sunday  noon,  and  invited  us  to  dine  with 
them    that  evening.     A  delegation  from    the    party 
accepted,   and  were  much   pleased   with  their  visit. 
Friars  Carse  is  a  lovely  spot.     The  winding  ^Nith  is 
seen  at   its  best  from  the  lawn.     As  we  drove  past 
on    Monday  t  morning    ^v^e    stopped  and    enjoyed   a 
morning  visit  to  our  friends,  who  were  exceedingly 
kind.      Mr.  Nelson  has  earned  the  grateful  remem- 
brance of    every  true  lover  of   Burns  by  restoring 
the  heritage  and  guarding  with  jealous  care  every 
vestige  of  one  of  the  half  dozen  geniuses  which  the 
world  will  reverence  more  and  more  as  the  years 
roll  by.     Me  has  wisely  taken  out  the  window  upon 
the    panes  of   which   Burns   wrote  with  a  diamond, 
"  Thou  whom  chance  may  hitherto  lead,"  one  of  my 
favorites.   This  is  now  preserved,  to  be  handed  down 
as   an   heirloom  in  the  family,  finally  to  find  its  place 
in  some  public  collection.   While  we  were  in  the  man- 
sion a  grand-daughter  of  Annie  Laurie  actually  came 
in.      I  know  of  no  young  lady  whose  grandmother  is 
so  widely  and  favorably  known.  We  were  all  startled 
to  be  brought  so  near  to  the  ideal  Annie   Laurie  of 
our  dreams.      It  only  shows  that  the  course  of  true 
love  never  runs  smooth  when  we  hear  that  she  did 
not  marry  the  poetic  lover.     Well,  maybe  she  was 
happier  with   a  dull  country  squire.      Poets  are  not 
proverbially  model  husbands  ;   the  better  poet,  the 
worse   husband,  and  the  writer  of  Annie  Laurie  had 
the  temperament  pretty  well  developed. 

Right,  Perry  !  We  are  off  for  Sanquhar,  twcnt}- 
eight  miles  awa);  ;  the  day  superb,  with  a  freshness 
unknown  in  the   more  genial   south   we   are   raj)idl3'^ 


i6o  OUR    COACHING    TRIP.  ' 

leaving  behind.  What  a  pretty  sight  it  was  to  see 
Miss  Nelson  bounding  along  upon  her  horse  in  the 
distance,  an  avant  courier  leading  us  to  a  warm 
welcome  at  her  beautiful  home  !  Would  I  had  been 
with  hqr  on  Habeebah  !  We  spent  an  hour  or  two 
there,  and  then  with  three  enthusiastic  cheers  for 
"  Friars  Carse  and  a'  within  it,"  the  Charioteers 
drove  off  ;  but  long  must  fond  recollections  of  that 
estate  and  of  the  faces  seen  there  linger  in  our  mem- 
ories as  among  the  most  pleasing  of  our  ever-mem- 
orable journey.  A  home  upon  the  Nith  near  Dum- 
fries has  many  attractions  indeed.  Our  drive  to-day 
lay  along  the  Nith  and  through  the  Duke  of  Buc- 
cleugh's  grounds  to  his  noble  seat  Dfumlanrig  Cas- 
tle. Here  we  have  a  real  castle  at  last,  none  of  your 
imported  English  affairs,  as  tame  as  caged  tigers. 
How  poor  and  insignificant  they  all  seem  to  such  as 
this  !  You  want  the  moors,  the  hills  and  glens,  and 
all  the  flavor  of  feudal  institutions  to  give  a  castle  its 
dignity  and  impress  you  with  the  thoughts  of  by- 
gone da)'S.  Modern  castles  in  England  built  to 
order  are  only  playthings,  toys  ;  but  in  Scotland 
they  are  real  and  stir  the  chords.  You  cannot  have 
in  England  a  glen  worthy  of  the  name,  with  its  dark 
amber-brown,  foaming,  rushing  torrent  dashing 
through  it.  We  begin  to  feel  the  exhilarating  influ- 
ences of  the  north  as  we  drive  on,  and  to  understand 
its  charm.     Byron  says  truly  : 

"  England  !  thy  beauties  are  tame  and  domestic 
To  one  who  has  roamed  on  the  mountains  afar. 
Oh,  for  the  crags  that  are  wild  and  majestic  ! 

The  steep  frowning  glories  of  dark  Loch  na  Garr." 

This  was  th6  feeling  upon  the  coach  to-day.     My 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  i6i 

eyes  watered  now  and  then  and  my  lieart  beat  faster 
as  the  grandeur  of  the  scenery  and  the  intiuences 
around  came  into  play.  This  was  my  land,  England 
only  a  far-off  connection,  not  one  of  the  family. 
"And  what  do  you  think  of  Scotland  noo  ?"  was 
often  repeated.  "  The  grandest  day  yet  !"  was  said 
more  than  once  as  we  drove  through  the  glen  ;  but 
this  has  been  said  so  often  during  this  wonderful  ex- 
pedition, and  has  so  often  been  succeeded  by  a  day 
which  appeared  to  excel  its  famous  predecessor,  that 
we  are  careful  now  to  emphasize  the  yet  ;  for  indeed 
we  feel  that  there  is  no  predicting  what  glories 
Scotland  has  in  store  for  us  beyond. 

Our  luncheon  to-day  was  taken  upon  the  banks 
of  the  Nith,  an  exquisitely  beautiful  spot.  There  was 
no  repressing  our  jubilant  spirits  that  day,  and  sit- 
ting there  on  Nith's  banks  the  party  burst  into  song, 
and  one  Scotch  song  followed  another.  There  was 
a  stransfe  stirrinij  of  the  blood,  an  exaltation  of  soul 
unknown  before.  The  pretty  had  been  left  behind, 
the  sublime  was  upon  us.  There  was  a  nip  in  the 
air  unfelt  in  the  more  o-cnial  climate  of  the  south. 
The  land  over  which  brooded  peace  *ancl  ([uiet  con- 
tent had  been  left  behind,  that  of  the  "  mountain  and 
the  flood  "  was  here,  whispering  of  its  power,  sway- 
ing us  to  and  fro  and  bending  us  to  its  mysterious 
will.  In  the  sough  of  the  wind  comes  the  call  of 
the  genii  to  mount  to  higher  heights,  that  we  may 
exult  in  the  mysteries  of  the  mountain  and  the  glen, 

"  The  steep  frowning  glories  of  dark  Loch  na  Garr." 

Even  our  songs  had  the  wail  of  the  minor  key 
suggesting  the  shadows  of  human  life,  eras  of  storm 


i62  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

and  strife,  of  heroic  endurance  and  of  noble  sacrifice; 
the  struggle  of  an  overmatched  people  contending 
for  generations  against  fearful  odds  and  maintaining 
through  all  vicissitudes  a  distinctively  national  life. 
That  is  what  makes  a  Scotchman  proud  of  this 
peculiar  little  piece  of  earth,  and  stirs  his  blood  and 
fills  his  eyes  as  he  returns  to  her  bosom.  I  wish 
poor  Ireland  could  only  fight  now  as  Scotland  did 
then.  There  would  soon  be  an  end  of  the  Irish 
question,  for  then  England  \vould  as  soon  attempt 
to  impose  English  ideas  upon  that  oppressed  land  as 
she  would  try  to  force  them  upon  Scotland,  and  she 
would  "  as  lief  face  the  devil  himself"  as  Scotland 
upon  such  an  issue.  Na,  she  must  be  "  strokit  canny 
wi'  the  hair,"  or  there  will  be  trouble,  mark  you  ! 

We  rested  over  Monday  night,  July  i8th,  at 
Sanquhar,  a  long  one-main-street  village,  whose  little 
inn  could  not  accommodate  us  all,  but  the  people 
were  kind,  and  the  gentlemen  of  the  party  had  no 
cause  to  complain  of  their  quarters.  It  was  here 
that  the  minister  absolved  the  Cameronians  from 
allegiance  to  "  the  ungodly  king" — a  great  step. 
Those  sturdy  Cameronians  probably  knew  little  of 
Shakespeare,  but  I  fancy  the  speech  of  that  rebel 
minister  could  not  have  been  better  ended,  or  begun 
either,  than  with  the  outburst  of  Laertes  to  another 
wicked  king  : 

"  I'll  not  be  juggled  with  : 
To  hell,  allegiance  !" 

Bravo  !  They  would  not  be  juggled  with  King 
Charles,  neither  will  their  descendants  be,  if  any 
king  hereafter  is  ever  rash  enough  to  try  his  "  impe- 
rial "  notions  upon  them.     That  day  is  past,  thanks 


BRIGHTON   TO   INVERNESS.  J 63 

to  that  good  minister  and  his  Cameronians.  I  gazed 
upon  the  monument  erected  to  these  worthies,  and 
gratefully  remembered  what  the  world  owes  to 
them. 

•We  stepped  into  a  stationer's  shop  there  and  met 
a  character.  One  side  of  the  shop  was  filled  with 
the  publications  of  the  Bible  Society,  the  other  with 
drugs.      "  A  strange  combination  this,"  I  remarked. 

"  Weel,  man,  no  sae  bad.  Pheseek  for  the  body 
an'  pheseek  for  the  soul.  Castor  oil  and  Bibles  no 
sae  bad." 

Harry  and  I  laughed. 

"Have  you  the  revised  edition  here  yet?"  I 
inquired. 

"  Na,  na,  the  auld  thing  here.  Nane  of  3"er  new- 
fangled editions  of  the  Scripture  for  us.  But  I  hear 
they've  shortened  the  Lord's  Prayer.  Noo,  that's 
no  a  bad  thing  for  them  as  hae  to  get  up  early  in  the 
mornins. " 

He  was  an  original,  and  we  left  his  shop  smiling 
at  his  way  of  putting  things.  Scotland  is  the  land 
of  odd  characters. 


Sanquhar,  July  8. 
We  are  off  for  Old  Cumnock,  the  entire  village 
seemingly  out  to  see  the  start.  Sanquhar  on  the 
moors  does  not  seem  to.  have  many  attractions,  but 
last  evening  we  had  one  of  our  finest  walks.  There 
is, a  fine  deep  glen  hid  away  between  the  hills,  with 
a  torrent  rushing  through  it,  over  which  bridges 
have  been  thrown.  We  were  temj)tcd  to  go  far  up 
the  glen.  The  long  gloaming  faded  away  into  dark- 
ness and  we  had  a  weird  stroll  hf)mc.      Tt  Avas  after 


164  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

ten  o'clock  when  we  reached  the  hotel.  This  may 
be  taken  as  a  specimen  of  our  evenings  ;  there  is 
always  the  long  walk  in  the  gloaming  after  dinner, 
which  may  be  noted  as  one  of  the  rare  pleasures  of 
the  day. 

Our  luncheon  to-day  could  not  be  excelled,  and  in 
some  features  it  was  unique.  The  banks  of  Douglas 
Water  was  the  site  chosen.  The  stream  divides,  and 
a  green  island  seemed  so  enchanting  that  the  com- 
mittee set  about  planning  means  to  cross  to  it.  The 
steps  of  the  coach  formed  a  temporary  bridge  over 
which  the  ladies  were  safely  conducted,  but  not 
without  some  danger  of  a  spill.  xA.s  many  as  thirty 
school  children,  then  enjoj'ing  their  summer  vaca- 
tion, followed,  and  after  a  while  ventured  to  frater- 
nize with  us.  Such  a  group  of  rosy,  happy  Httle 
ones  it  would  be  difficult  to  meet  with  out  of  Scot- 
land. Children  seem  to  flourish  without  care  in  this 
climate.  The  difference  between  the  children  of 
America  and  Britain  is  infinitely  greater  than  that 
between  the  adults  of  the  two  countries.  Scotch 
children  learn  to  pronounce  as  the  English  do  in  the 
schools,  but  in  their  play  the  ancient  Doric  comes 
out  in  full  force.  It  is  all  broad  Scotch  yet  in  con- 
versation. This  will  no  doubt  change  in  time,  but 
it  seemed  to  us  that  so  far  they  have  lost  very  few 
of  the  Scotch  words  and  none  of  the  accent.  We 
asked  the  group  to  appoint  one  of  their  number  to 
receive  some  money  to  buy  "  sweeties"  for  the 
party.  Jeannie  Morrison  was  the  lassie  proposed 
and  unanimously  chosen.  Jeannie  was  in  the  sixth 
standard.  In  answer  to  an  inquiry,  it  was  at  first 
said  that  no   one   else  of  the  party   was  so   far  ad- 


A 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  165 

vanced,  but  a  moment's  consultation  resulted  in  a 
prompt  correction,  and  tlien  came  :  "  Aye,  Aggie 
McDonald  is  too."  But  not  one  of  the  laddies  was 
beyond  the  fifth.  Well,  the  women  of  Scotland 
alwaj^s  were  superior  to  the  men.  If  a  workingman 
i'n  Scotland  does  not  get  a  clever  managing  wife  (they 
are  helpmeets  there),  he  never  amounts  to  anything, 
and  many  a  stupid  man  pulls  up  well  through  the 
efforts  of  his  wife.  It  is  much  the  same  as  in 
France. 

The  shyness  of  these  children  surprised  our 
Americans  much.  They  could  scarcely  be  induced 
to  partake  of  cakes  and  jelly,  which  must  be  rare 
delicacies  with  them.  I  created  a  laugh  by  insisting 
that  even  after  I  had  been  in  America  several  years 
I  was  as  shy  as  any  of  these  children.  My  friends 
were  apparently  indisposed  to  accept  such  an  as- 
sertion entirely,  but  an  appeal  to  Davie  satisfied 
them  of  mv  modesty  in  early  youth.  "  AJi,  tJieii  !'' 
said  Miss  Maud.  But  this  was  cruel.  I  can  safely 
appeal  to  Robert  Pitcairn,  even  if  he  is  a  great  rail- 
way magnate  now,  whether  he  has  not  a  grudge  yet 
for  a  dinner  I  made  him  lose  when  he  was  ravenous 
(as  indeed  I  was  myself),  because  I  could  not  be  in- 
duced to  eat  in  a  strange  house.  Mrs.  Franciscus 
knows  too,  and  often  speaks  of  it,  that  I  was  the 
sh)'est  boy  she  ever  had  to  coax  into  feeling  at 
home. 

We  left  some  rare  morsels  for  these  children 
when  they  had  done  cheering  us  at  our  departure. 
I  warrant  they  "  were  nae  blate."  The  dear  little 
innocent,  happy  things  !  I  wish  I  could  get  among 
them  again.     What   would    not   one  give   to   get    a 


1 66  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

fresh  start,  to  be  put  back  a  child  again,  that  he 
might  make  such  a  record  as  seems  possible  when 
looking  backward.  How  many  things  he  would  do 
that  he  did  not  do,  how  many  he  would  not  do  that 
he  did  do  !  I  sympathize  with  Faust,  the  offer  was 
too  tempting  to  be  successfully  withstood.  It 
always  seems  to  me  that  parents  and  others  having 
charofe  of  children  mio;-ht  do  more  than  is  done  to 
teach  them  the  only  means  of  making  life  worth  liv- 
ing, and  to  point  out  to  them  the  rocks  and  eddies 
from  which  they  themselves  have  suffered  damage 
in  life's  passage. 

With  the  cheers  of  the  children  rinofins^  in  our 
ears  we  started  on  our  way.  While  stopping  at  the 
inn  to  return  what  had  been  lent  us  in  the  way  of  bas- 
kets, pitchers,  etc.,  a  lady  drove  up  in  a  stylish  phae- 
ton, and,  excusing  herself  for  intruding,  said  that  a 
coach  was  so  rarely  seen  in  those  parts  she  could 
not  resist  asking  who  we  were  and  whither  bound, 
fgave  her  all  desired  information,  and  asked  her  to 
please  gratify  our  ladies  by  telling  in  return  who 
she  was.  "  Lady  Stuart  Monteith,"  was  the  repl}^ 
She  was  of  the  Monteiths  of  Closeburn  Castle, 
as  we  learned  from  Mr.  Murray,  our  landlord  at 
Cumnock.  The  estate  will  go  at  her  death  to  a 
nephew  who  is  farming  in  America.  We  thought 
there  must  be  some  good  reason  why  he  did  not  re- 
turn and  manage  for  his  aunt,  who  indeed  seems 
well  qualified  to  manage  for  herself.  The  young 
exiled  heir  had  our  sympathv,  but  long  may  it  be 
ere  he  enters  upon  Closeburn,  for  we  were  all  heart- 
ily in  favor  of  a  long  and  happy  reign  to  the  pres- 
ent ruler  of  that  beautiful  estate.      Lady  Monteith 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  167 

assured  us  that  we  would  be  well  taken  care  of  at 
the  Dumfries  Arms,  and  she  was  right.  Mr.  Murray 
and  his  handsome  sisters  will  long  be  remembered 
as  model  hotel-keepers.  They  made  our  stay  most 
agreeable.  Mr.  Murray  took  us  to  the  Bowling 
Green  in  the  evening,  and  many  of  our  party  saw  the 
game  for  the  first  time.  Great  excitement  prevails 
when  the  sides  are  evenly  matched.  It  is  like  the 
curling  pond,  a  perfect  republic.  There  is  no  rank 
upon  the  ice  or  upon  the  green.  The  postman  will 
berate  the  provost  for  bad  play  at  bowls,  but  touch 
his  hat  respectfully  to  him  on  the  pavement.  A  man 
may  be  even  a  provost  and  yet  not  up  to  giving  them 
a  "  Yankee  "  when  called  for.  We  were  curious  to 
know  what  a  "  Yankee  "  shot  was,  for  we  heard  it 
called  for  by  the  captains  every  now  and  then.  We 
were  told  that  this  was  a  shot  which  "  knocked  all 
before  it,  and  played  the  very  deevil. "  That  is  not 
bad. 

While  a  few  of  us  who  had  recently  seen  the  land 
of  Burns  remained  at  Cumnock,  the  remainder  of  the 
party  drove  to  Ayr  and  saw  all  the  sights  there  and 
returned  "in  the  evening.  Our  walks  about  Cumnock 
were  delightful,  and  we  left  Mr.  Murray's  care  with 
sincere  regret.  Mr.  Wilson  was  upon  his  native 
heath  here  and  did  all  lie  could  to  make  our  stay 
pleasant. 

Old  Cumnock,  Jul}'  19. 
Passing  out  of  the  town  this  morning,  we  stopped 
at  the  prettiest  little  photographic  establishment  we 
had  ever  seen,  and  the  artist  succeeded  in  taking  ex- 
cellent views  of  the  coach  and  party.     It  was  done 


1 68  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

in  an  instant  ;  we  were  taken  ere  we  were  aware. 
A  great  thing,  that  new  process  ;  one  has  not  time 
to  look  his  very  worst,  as  sitters  usually  contrive  to 
do,  ladies  especially. 

"  Right,  Perry  !  "  and  off  we  drove  through  the 
crowd  for  Douglas.  The  general  manager  soon 
confided  to  me  that  for  the  first  time  he  was  dubious 
about  our  resting-place.  A  telegram  had  been  re- 
ceived by  him  from  the  landlord  at  Douglas  just  be- 
fore starting,  stating  that  his  inn  was  full  to  over- 
flowing with  officers  of  the  volunteer  regiment  en- 
camped there,  and  that  it  was  simply  impossible  for 
him  to  provide  for  our  party.  What  was  to  be  done  ? 
It  was  decided  to  inform  that  important  personage, 
mine  host,  that  we  were  moving  upon  him,  and  that 
if  he  gave  no  quarters  we  should  give  none  either. 
He  must  billet  us  somewhere  ;   if  not,  then 

"  A  night  in  Greenwood  spent 
Were  but  to  morrow's  merriment." 

But  we  felt  quite  sure  that  the  town  of  Douglas 
would  in  council  a*ssembled  extend  a  warm  welcome 
to  the  Americans  and  see  us  safely  housed,  even  if 
there  was  not  a  hotel  in  the  place.  So  on  we  went. 
While  passing  through  Lugar,  a  pretty  young  miss 
ran  out  of  the  telegraph  office,  and  holding  up  both 
hands,  called  :  "  Stop  !  It's  no  aff  yet  !  it's  no  aff 
yet  !"  A  message  was  coming  for  the  coaching 
party.  It  proved  to  be  from  our  Douglas  landlord, 
saying.  All  right  !  he  would  do  the  best  he  could  for 
us.  When  the  party  was  informed  how  much  we 
had  been  trusting  in  providence  for  the  past  few 
hours,  such  was  their  enthusiasm  that  some  disap- 


BRIGFITON    TO  INVERNESS.  169 

poinlment  was  expressed  at  the  assuring'  character  of 
the  telegram.  To  not  know  where  we  were  going, 
to  be  all  night — maybe  to  have  to  lie  in  and  on  the 
coach — would  have  been  such  fun  !  "  But  behind 
yon  hill  where  Lugar  flows,"  sung  by  Eliza,  sounded 
none  the  less  sweet  when  we  knew  we  were  not  likely 
to  have  to  camp  out  upon  its  pretty  banks.  It  is 
essential  for  successful  happy  coaching  with  ladies 
that  every  comfort  should  be  provided.  I  am  satis- 
fied it  would  never  do  to  risk  the  weaker  sex  coach- 
ing in  any  other  land.  The  extreme  comfort  of 
everything  here  alone  keeps  them  well  and  able  to 
stand  the  gypsy  life.  We  travelled  most  of  the  day 
through  the  ore  lands  and  among  the  blast  furnaces 
of  the  Scotch  pig-iron  kings,  the  Bairds.  It  is  not 
so  many  years  since  I  raised  a  laugh  at  Mr.  White- 
law's  table  in  London  by  predicting  that  the  Carne- 
gies  might  some  day  make  as  much  of  this  necessity 
of  life  as  they  did.  In  those  bygone  days  none 
seemed  to  understand  the  vast  resources  of  America, 
or  to  believe  in  her  manifest  destiny  ;  but  Mr.  White- 
law,  then  M.  P.  for  Glasgow,  and  one  of  the  Bairds, 
was  one  who  knew  the  possibilities  of  that  future 
better  than  his  guests  who  laughed.  We  are  ready 
to  challenge  them  for  a  year's  run  any  time  now, 
and  we  shall  beat  them  next  year,  sure. 

To  reach  Edinburgh  we  had  to  drive  diagonally 
eastward  across  the  country,  for  we  had  gone  to  the 
westward  that  Dumfries  and  the  Land  of  Burns 
might  not  be  missed.  This  route  took  us  through 
less  frequented  localities,  off  the  main  lines  of 
travel,  but  our  experience  justified  us  in  leeling 
that   this   had    proved    a   great   advantage,    for    we 


I70 


OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 


saw  more  of  Scotland  than  we  should  have  done 
otherwise.  ^ 

Our  luncheon  to-da}^  -was  a  novel  one  in  some 
respects.  No  inn  was  to  be  reached  upon  the 
moors,  and  feed  for  the  horses  had  to  be  taken  with 
us  from  Cumnock  ;  but  we  found  the  prettiest  little 
wimpling-  burn,  across  which  a  passage  was  made  by 
throv/ing  in  big  stones,  for  the  shady  dell  was  upon 
the  far  side.  The  horses  w^ere  unhitched  and 
allowed  to  nibble  the  wayside  grass  beside  our  big 
coach,  which  loomed  up  on  the  moor  as  if  it  were 
double  its  true  size. 

The  thistle  and  the  harebell  begin  to  deck  our 
grassy  tables  at  noon,  and  fine  fields  of  peas  and 
beans  scent  the  air.  All  is  Scotch  ;  and  oh,  that 
bracing  breeze,  which  cools  deliciously  the  sun's 
bright  rays,  confirms  us  in  the  opinion  that  no 
weather  is  like  Scotch  weather,  when  it  is  good  ; 
when  it  is  not  I  have  no  doubt  the  same  opinion  is 
equally  correct,  but  we  have  no  means  of  judging. 
Scotland  smiles  upon  her  guests,  and  we  love  her 
with  true  devotion  in  return.  *'  What  do  you  think 
of  Scotland  noo  ? "  came  often  to-day;  but  words 
cannot  express  what  we  do  think  of  her.  In  the 
language  of  one  of  our  young  ladies,  "  She  is  just 
lovely." 

The  question  came  up  to-day  at  luncheon,  would 
one  ever  tire  of  this  gypsy  life  ?  and  it  was  unani- 
mously voted,  never  !  At  least  no  one  could  venture 
to  name  a  time  when  he  would  be  ready  to  return 
to  the  prosy  routine  of  ordinary  existence  while  we 
had  snch  weather  and  such  company.  Indeed,  this 
nomadic  life  must  be  the  hardest  of  all  to  exchange 


BRIGHTON   TO  INVERNESS.  17 1 

for  city  life.  It  is  so  diametrically  opposed  to  it  in  • 
every  phase.  "  If  I  were  not  the  independent  gen- 
tleman I  am,"  says  Lamb,  "  I  should  choose  to  be  a 
beggar."  "  Chapsey  me  a  gypsy,"  gentle  Elia,  you 
could  not  have  known  of  that  life,  or  perhaps  you 
considered  it  and  the  beggar's  life  identical.  But, 
mark  you,  there  is  a  difference  which  is  much  more 
than  a  distinction.  A  gypsy  cannot  beg,  but  he  or 
she  tells  fortunes,  tinkers  a  little,  and  deals  in  horses. 
Even  if  he  steals  a  little  now  and  then,  I  take  it  he 
is  still  within  the  lines  of  the  profession,  while  your 
beggar  who  does  anything  in  the  way  of  work,  or 
who  steals,  is  no  true  man.  His  license  is  for  beg- 
ging only.  The  gypsy  obviously  has  the  wider 
range,  and  I  say  again  therefore,  "  Chapsey  me  a 
gypsy,"  gentle  Elia. 

We  reached  pretty  Douglas  in  the  evening,  and 
sounded  our  horn  more  than  usual  to  apprise  mine 
host  that  the  host  was  upon  him.  We  were  greatly 
pleased  to  see  him  and  his  good  wife  standing  in  the 
door  of  the  inn  with  pleasant,  smihng  faces  to  greet 
us.  They  had  arranged  everything  for  our  comfort. 
Many  thanks  to  those  gentlemanly  officers  who  had 
so  kindly  given  up  their  rooms  to  accommodate  their 
American  cousins.  Quarters  for  the  gentlemen  had 
been  found  in  the  village,  and  Joe  and  Perry  and  the 
horses  were  all  well  taken  care  of.  Thus  we  suc- 
cessfully passed  through  the  only  occasion  where 
there  seemed  to  be  the  slightest  difficulty  about  our 
resting-place  for  the  night. 

Douglas  is  really  worth  a  visit.  There  lie  many 
generations  of  the  members  of  that  family  so  noted 
in  Scotland's  history.     Home  Castle,  their  residence, 


172  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

is  a  commanding  pile  seen  for  many  miles  up  the 
valley  as  we  approach  the  town.  Our  visit  to  it 
was  greatly  enjoyed,  such  a  pretty  walk  in  the 
evening. 


Douglas,  July  20. 
Edinburgh,  Scotia's  darling  seat,  only  forty-four 
miles  distant.  All  aboard,  this  pretty  morning,  for 
Edinburgh  !  "  Right,  Perry  !"  and  off  we  went 
quite  early  through  Douglas,  for  the  capital.  Our 
path  was  through  woods  for  several  miles,  and  we 
listened  to  the  birds  and  saw  and  heard  many  of  the 
incidents  of  morn  so  prettily  described  by  Beattie  : 

"The  wild  brook  babbling  down  the  mountain-side. 
The  lowing  herd  ;  the  sheep-fold's  simple  bell  ; 
The  hum  of  bees,  and  linnet's  lay  of  love, 
And  the  full  choir  that  wakes  the  universal  grove." 

It  was  to  be  a  long  day's  drive,  but  an  easy  one  ; 
only  one  hill,  and  then  a  gradual  descent  all  the  way 
to  Edinburgh.  So  it  might  have  been  by  the  other 
road,  but  the  milestones  which  told  us  so  many 
miles  to  Edinburgh  should  also  have  said  :  "  Take 
the  new  road  ;  this  is  the  old  one,  over  the  hills  and 
far  away."  But  they  did  not,  and  we  could  not  be 
wrong,  for  this  was  a  way  if  not  tlie  way  to  "  Auld 
Reekie."  After  all  it  was  one  of  the  richest  of 
our  experiences  as  we  look  back  upon  it  now.  So 
many  hills  to  walk  up  and  so  many  to  walk  down  ; 
so  many  moors  with  not  a  house  to  be  seen, 
nothing  but  sheep  around  us  and  the  Hghts  and 
shadows  of  a  Scotch  sky  overhead.  But  it  was 
grand,  and  recalled  some  of  Black's  wonderful  pen 
pictures.     And  then  we  enjoyed  the  heather  which 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  173 

we  found   in   its  beauty,  though  scarce!}'  yet  tuited 
with  its  richest  glow  of  color. 

About  luncheon  time  we  began  to  look  longing- 
ly for  the  inn  which  we  expected  to  find,  but  there 
was  no  habitation  of  any  kind  to  be  seen,  and  we 
began  to  suspect  that,  notwithstanding  the  mile- 
stones, which  stood  up  and  told  us  the  lie  which  was 
half  the  truth  (ever  the  blacker  lie),  we  were  not 
upon  the  right  road  to  Edinburgh.  At  this  juncture 
we  met  a  shepherd  with  his  collies,  and  learnt  from 
him  that  we  were  still  twelve  miles  from  an  inn.  It 
was  a  cool,  breezy  day  ;  the  air  had  the  "  nip"  in  it 
which  Maggie  missed  so  in  England,  and  we  were 
famishing.  There  was  nothing  else  to  do  but  to  stop 
where  we  were,  at  the  pretty  burn,  and  tarry  there 
for  entertainment  for  man  and  beast. 

As  proof  of  our  temperance,  please  note  that  the 
flasks    filled  with    sherry,  whiskey,   and    brandy,  at 
Brighton  I  believe,  as  reserve  forces  for  emergencies, 
still  had  plenty  in  them  when  called  for  to-day  ;  and 
rarely  has  a  glass  of  spirits  done  greater  good,  the 
ladies  as  well  as  we  of  the  stronger  sex  feeling  that 
a  glass  was  necessary  to  keep  off  a  chill.     We  were 
"  o'er  the  moors  among  the  heather"   in  good  ear- 
nest to-day,  but  how  soon  we  were  all  set  to  rights 
and  laughing  over  our  frolic.     The  shepherd  and  his 
dugs  lunched  with  us,  and  many  a  glint  of  Scottish 
shepherd  life  did  we  get  from  his  conversation.      He 
was  a  happy,  contented  man,  and   ever  so  gratefid 
that  he  was  not  condemned   to   live  in  a  city.     He 
thought  such  a  cramped-up  life  would  soon  kill  him. 
Good-bye,    my   gentle  shepherd  and    "  Tweed  " 
and    "  Rab,"   your  faithful,   sagacious  companions. 
12 


174  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

Your  life  leads  to  contentment,  and  where   will  you 

find  that  jewel  when  you  leave  mother  earth  and  her 

products,  her  heather  and  her  burns,  your  doggies 

and  your  sheep  ? 

Davie,  in  Andrew  Martin's  absence,  sang  us  that 

song  whose  prettiest  verse,  though  they  are  all  fine, 

is  this  : 

"  See  yonder  paukie  shepherd 

Wha  lingers  on  the  hill, 

His  ewes  are  in  the  fauld 

And  his  sheep  are  Iving  still." 

Softly,  softly,  pianissimo,  my  boy  !  These  lines 
must  be  sung  so,  not  loudly  like  the  other  verses. 
Andrew  knows  the  touch. 

"  But  he  downa  gang  to  rest, 
For  his  heart  is  in  a  flame 
To  meet  his  bonnie  lassie, 
When  the  kye  come  hame." 

And  SO  we  parted  from  our  shepherd,  the  chorus 
of  our  song  reaching  him  over  the  moors  till  he  fad- 
ed out  of  sight.  I  am  sure  we  wish  him  week  Hap- 
piness is  not  all,  nor  mainly,  in  the  higher  walks 
of  life  ;  and  surely  in  virtue's  paths  the  cottage 
leaves  the  palace  far  behind. 

Another  song  followed,  which  I  thought  equally 
appropriate,  for  it  tells  us  that  "  Ilka  blade  o'  grass 
keps  its  ain  drap  o'  dew."  Ah,  the  shepherd's 
drops  of  the  dew  of  life  are  often  something  that 
princes  sigh  for  in  vain. 

After  many  miles  up  and  down,  we  finally  reached 
the  top  of  a  hill  from  which  we  saw  lying  before 
us,  though  still  fourteen  miles  distant,  the  modern 
Athens.     There  was  no  mistaking  Arthur's  Seat,  the 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  175 

lion  crouching-  there.  "  Stop,  Perry  !"  Three  times 
three  for  the  "  Queen  of  the  Unconquered  North  !" 
"  What  do  you  think  of  Scotland  noo  ?"  Match  that 
city  who  can  !  Not  on  this  planet  will  you  do  it, 
search  where  you  may. 

It  was  only  a  few  miles  from  where  we  now 
stood  that  Fitz  Eustace,  enraptured  with  the  scene, 

"  And  making  denii-volte  in  air, 
Cried,  Where's  the  coward  that  would  not  dare 
To  fight  for  such  a  land  !" 

Fight  for  it  .^  I  guess  so,  to  the  death  !  Scotland 
forever  ! 

We  were  about  completing  one  stage  of  our  jour- 
ney, for  Edinburgh  had  been  looked  forward  to  as 
one  of  the  principal  points  we  had  to  reach,  and  we 
were  to  rest  there  a  few  days  before  marching  upon 
the  more  ancient  metropolis,  Dunfermline.  Most  of 
us  had  been  steadily  at  work  since  we  left  Brighton, 
and  the  prospect  of  a  few  days'  respite  was  an  agree- 
able one  ;  but  after  all  it  was  surprising  how  fresh 
even  the  ladies  were. 

Miss  Roxburgh  was  here  called  to  the  front,  along- 
side of  Perry,  to  act  as  guide  into  and  through  the  city 
to  our  hotel  in  Prince's  Street.  The  enthusiasm  s^rew 
more  and  more  intense  as  we  came  nearer  and  fresh 
views  were  obtained.  There  remained  one  more  toll- 
gate,  one  of  the  few  which  have  not  yet  been  abol- 
ished. Joe  had  as  usual  gone  forward  to  pay  the 
toll,  but  the  keeper  declared  she  did  not  know  the 
charge,  as  never  since  she  kept  toll  had  anything 
like  that — pointing  to  the  coach — passed  there.  Was 
it  any  wonder  that  we  attracted  attention  during  our 
progress  northward  ? 


176  OUR   COACHING    TRIP. 

From  one  hill-top  T  caught  a  sight  of  the  spark- 
ling Forth,  and  beyond  where  lay  "  the  dearest  spot 
on  earth  to  me/'  The  town  could  not  be  seen,  but 
when  I  was  able  to  cry,  "  Dunfermline  lies  there," 
three  rousing  cheers  were  given  for  the  "  Auld  gray 
Toon." 

Edinburgh,  Jul)^  21-26. 

Our  route  lay  through  Newington,  that  we  might 
leave  the  young  artist  at  home.  We  tried  to  do  it 
quietly,  but  our  friend  Mrs.  Hill  was  out  and  shak- 
ing hands  with  us  ere  we  could  drive  off.  Mr.  Mac- 
Gregor  of  the  Royal  had  been  mindful  of  us  ;  a 
grand  sitting-room  fronting  on  Prince's  Street  and 
overlooking  the  gardens  gave  us  the  best  possible 
view,  the  very  choice  spot  of  all  this  choice  city.  The 
night  was  beautiful,  and  the  lights  from  the  towering 
houses  of  the  old  town  made  an  illumination  as  it 
were  in  honor  of  our  arrival.  That  the  travellers 
were  delighted  with  Edinlpurgh,  that  it  more  than  ful- 
filled all  expectations,  is  to  say  but  httle  ;  and  those 
who  saw  it  for  the  first  time  felt  it  to  be  beyond  all 
that  they  had  imagined.  Those  of  us  who  knew  its 
picturesque  charms  were  more  than  ever  impressed 
v/ith  its  superiority  over  all  other  cities.  Take  my 
word  for  it,  my  readers,  there  is  no  habitation  of 
human  beings  in  this  world  as  fine  in  its  way,  and  its 
way  itself  is  fine,  as  this  the  capital  of  Scotland. 

The  surprise  and  delight  of  my  friends  gave  me 
much  pleasure.  Scotland  had  already  won  all 
hearts.  They  had  admired  England,  but  they  loved 
Scotland.  Ah,  how  could  they  help  it  !  I  loved  her 
too  more  deeply  than  ever. 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  177 

It  is  best  to  disband  a  large  party  when  in  a  city 
possessed  of  many  and  varied  attractions,  allowing 
each  little  group  to  see  the  sights  in  its  own  way  ; 
assembling,  however,  at  breakfast  and  dinner,  and 
spending  the  evenings  together,  recounting  the  day's 
adventures.  This  was  the  general  order  issued  for 
Edinburgh. 

Mother  and  Miss  Franks  were  the  guests  of  Mrs. 
D.  O.  Hill,  a  Dunfermline  bairn  of  whom  we  are  all 
proud  (a  woman  who  does  man's  work  in  marble  is 
something  to  be  proud  of);  so  that  our  hotel  party 
was  something  of  a  republic  in  the  absence  of  the 
Oueen  Dowager. 

The  new  docks  at  Lcith  were  opened  with  much 
ceremony  during  our  stay,  and  I  took  a  party  of  our 
Edinburgh  friends  upon  the  coach  to  witness  the 
opening.  It  was  not  a  clear  day,  meteorologically 
considered,  but  nevertheless  it  \vas  a  happy  one  for 
the  coaching  party.  Upon  our  return,  a  stop  at  Mr. 
Nelson's  magnificent  residence  was  specially  agree- 
able, lie  and  his  daughters  were  most  kind  to  us 
while  in  Edinburgh.  Mr.  Nelson  gave  us  a  rare 
treat  by  showing  us  through  their  immense  printing 
establishment,  where  such  exquisite  things  are  done, 
such  Easter  and  Christmas  cards,  such  friendship 
tokens,  and  a  thousand  other  lovely  forms  we  had 
never  seen  before  in  their  various  stages  of  manu- 
facture. 

I  asked  Mr.  Nelson  what  he  had  to  say  in  reph^ 
to  the  admissions  of  the  leading  art  authorities  of  the 
superiority  of  American  work  in  black  and  white, 
such  as  our  magazines  excel  in.  He  said  this  could 
not  be  questioned  ;  there  was  nothing  done  in  Brit- 


1 78  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

ish  publications  that  equalled  the  American.  The 
reason  he  gave  furnishes  food  for  thought.  I  pray 
you,  fellow  countrymen,  take  note  of  it.  Two 
principal  American  illustrated  magazines,  Harper  s 
and  the  Century,  print  each  more  than  one  hundred 
thousand  copies,  while  no  British  magazine  prints 
half  that  number.  The  American  publisher  can  con- 
sequently afford  to  pay  twice  as  much  as  the  British 
publisher  for  his  illustrations.  If  this  be  the  true 
reason  of  America's  superiority  in  this  respect,  and 
I  am  sure  Mr.  Nelson  knows  what  he  is  stating,  then 
as  its  population  increases  more  rapidly  than  the 
British  the  difference  between  their  respective  publi- 
cations must  increase,  and  finally  drive  the  home 
article  into  a  very  restricted  position.  Pursuing  this 
fact  to  its  logical  conclusion,  Britain  may  soon  re- 
ceive from  her  giant  child  all  that  is  best  in  any  de- 
partment of  art  which  depends  upon  general  support 
for  success.  This  seems  to  me  to  betoken  a  revolu- 
tion, not  as  implying  the  inherent  superiority  of  the 
American,  but  simply  flowing  from  the  fact  that  fifty 
millions  of  English-speaking  and  reading  people  can 
afford  to  spend  more  for  any  certain  article  than 
thirty-five  millions  can.  That  Colonel  Mapleson 
now  brings  over  Her  Majesty's  (3pera  Company  for 
the  New  York  season  as  regularly  as  he  opens  his 
London  season,  and  especially  that  he  makes  far 
more  profit  out  of  the  former  than  out  of  the  latter, 
is  another  significant  fact.  That  leading  actors  find 
a  wider  field  here  than  at  home  is  still  another,  and 
even  ministers  are  finding  that  the  call  of  the  Lord 
to  higher  labors  and  higher  salaries  often  comes  from 
the  far  side  of  the  Atlantic.     Drs.   McCosh,  Hall, 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  179 

Ormiston,    and    Taylor,    our   leading    divines,    get 
treble  salaries  in  the  Republic,  and  are  said  to  be  val- 
uable importations.     As   Mr.  Evarts  said  one  night 
in  a  post-prandial  effort.:   "  They  are  about  the  only 
specimens  of  '  the  cloth  '    which  is  admitted   duty 
free."     As  long  as  America  sent  Britain  only  pork 
and  cheese  and  provisions,  and  such  products  of  the 
soil,  it  was  all  well  enough,  but  if  she  is  beginning  to 
send  the   highest  things  of   life,  the    art   treasures, 
which  give  sweetness  and  light  to  human  existence, 
it  is  somewhat  alarming.     For  my  part,  I  do  not  like 
to  think  that  these   Americans  are  to  send  Britain 
every  good  thing,  and  that  the  once  proud  country 
that  led  the  world  is  to  stand  receiving  as  it  were  the 
crumbs  from  this  rich  land's  table.      In  one  depart- 
ment America  can  be  kept  second  for  as  long  a  term 
as  we  need  trouble  about —she  has  nothing  to  com- 
pare with  the  leading  English  Reviews.     Our  genera- 
tion will  see  no  close  rival  to  the  Fort)iightly  or  the 
NinetccntJi  Century,  to  Blackwood  ox  Chambers' s  Jour- 
nal,   or   to    the   Edinburgh   or    IVestniiiister  Reviciv ; 
althouijh   the  North  American  and   the  International 
show  that  even  in  this  race  America  enters  two  not 
indifferent  steeds. 

I  must  not  forget  to  mention  that  the  birds  in  the 
Century  magazine  which  the  AtJien(Buni  pronounced 
so  far  su})erior  to  any  British  work  wfere  designed  b}^ 
a,  young  lady  and  engraved  by  her  sister.  The  work 
of  two  American  young  ladies  excelled  the  best  of 
England  ;  and  then  did  not  Miss  Rosina  Emmet  send 
a  Christmas  greeting  of  her  own  composition  to 
friends  in  England  which  took  the  second  prize  at 
the   London   Exhibition,  although   not  intended   for 


i8o  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

anything  more  than  a  private  token  of  friendship. 
Let  a  note  be  made  of  all  this,  with  three  loving 
cheers  for  the  young-  lady  artists  of  the  Republic. 
Instead  of  losing  the  charms  of  women  by  giving 
public  expression  to  their  love  of  the  beautiful  in  all 
its  forms,  th6y  but  add  one  more  indescribable  charm 
which  their  less  fortunate  sisters  can  never  hope  to 
attain.  How  a  man  does  reverence  a  woman  who 
does  fine  things  in  art,  literature,  or  music,  or  in  any 
line  whatever  ! 

The  Charioteers  gave  leave  of  absence  to  the 
chief  and  general  manager  to  spend  Sunday  with  my 
friends  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Glover,  at  Strathairly  House, 
on  the  banks  of  the  Forth.  It  was  a  most  delightful 
visit.  The  Commodore  of  the  Forth  Yachting 
Squadron  (for  such  friend  Glover  is)  had  the  Ranee 
ready  to  take  us  back  to  Edinburgh  Monday  morn- 
ing. We  enjoyed  the  sail  down  the  Forth  very 
much.  That  we  could  not  accept  the  Commodore's 
invitation  to  change  the  Gay  Charioteers  into  the 
Bold  Mariners  for  a  day  and  visit  St.  Andrews  in 
the  Ranee  gave  rise  to  deep  regret,  when  the  other 
members  of  the  party  were  informed  of  the  treat 
proposed  ;  but  we  cannot  glean  every  field  upon  our 
march.  Some  other  time,  Commodore,  the  recently 
elected  member  of  the  squadron  will  report  for  duty 
on  the  flagship  and  splice  the  main-brace  with  you 
and  your  jolly  crew. 

Upon  our  return  to  Edinburg'h  Monday  morning, 
the  first  rumbling  of  the  distant  thunder  from  Dun- 
fermline was  heard,  and  it  dawned  upon  us  that  seri- 
ous work- was  at  hand.  Our  friend,  Mr.  Donald  of 
the  Council,  had  called  upon  us  and  intimated  that 


I 


BRIGHTON   TO   INVERNESS.  i8i 

something  of  a  demonstration,  might  be  made  upon 
our  arrival  in  the  native  town  ;  but  when  I  found  a 
telegram  from  Mr.  Simpson,  the  clerk,  asking  us  to 
postpone  our  coming  for  a  day,  T  knew  there  was  an 
end  to  play.  Things  looked  serious,  but  I  was  not 
going  to  be  the  sole  sufferer.  At  dinner  I  laid  it  down 
as  the  law  from  which  there  could  be  no  appeal,  that 
if  there  was  an)-  public  speaking  to  be  done,  Messrs. 
Phipps,  McCargo,  King,  McCandless,  and  Vande- 
vort,  in  the  order  named,  were  in  for  it.  It  is  sur- 
prising how  much  it  mitigates  one's  own  troubles  to 
see  his  dearest  friends  more  frightened  than  him- 
self. I  grew  bolder  as  I  encouraged  these  victims. 
The  last  two  offered  great  inducements  to  the  ladies 
if  they  would  vote  that  they  should  be  excused.  As 
for  the  others,  I  made  it  a  question  of  ministerial 
confidence,  and  the  administration  was  sustained. 
When  you  read  their  speeches  I  am  sure  you  will  see 
the  wisdom  of  my  selections. 

Tuesday  was  rainy,  but  with  limcheon  at  ]Mr. 
Rose's  (which  we  should  have  been  so  sorry  to  miss, 
for  we  had  known  Miss  Rose  of  old  as  one  of  Emma's 
most  cherished  friends),  and  a  party  in  the  evening 
at  Mrs.  Mill's,  the  day  was  a  busy  one. 

I  was  glad  to  see  Sir  Noel  Paton,  Dunfermline's 
most  distinguished  son,  able  to  be  at  his  sister's  that 
evening.  The  recent  narrow  and  heroic  escape  from 
drowning  of  liimsclf,  Tady  Paton,  and  liis  son  Vic- 
tor, gave  us  all  renewed  interest  in  grasping  his  hand 
again.  'Thrown  from  a  small  sail-boat  into  the  sea, 
at  least  two  hundred  vards  from  shore,  with  ropes 
and  sail  tangled  about  them,  the  three  rallied  to  each 
other's  support  (for  all  could  swim),  and  bore  each 


1 82  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

other  up  until  finally  Lady  Paton  got  between  her 
husband  and  son,  with  one  hand  on  the  shoulder  of 
each,  and  thus  they  struggled  grandly  to  shore. 
VVhere  is  another  trio  that  could  do  that,  think 
you  ?  I  tell  you  who  don't  know  Dunfermline,  that 
these  Patons  were  always  a  marked  famil}^  and  have 
had  genius  hovering  about  their  pretty  home  for 
generations,  and  now  and  then  touching  the  heads 
and  hearts  of  father,  sons,  and  daughters  with  its 
creative  wand.  There  is  a  great  deal  in  blood,  no 
doubt,  but  the  blood  from  au  honest  weaver  or  shoe- 
maker is,  as  a  rule,  a  much  better  article,  something 
to  be  much  prouder  of,  than  you  find  from  nobles 
whose  rise  came  from  such  conduct  as  should  make 
their  descendants  ashamed  to  talk  of  descent.  It's  a 
God's  mercy  we  are  all  from  honest  weavers  ;  let  us 
pity  those  who  haven't  ancestors  of  whom  they  can 
be  proud,  dukes  or  duchesses  though  they  be. 


Dunfermline,  July  27-28. 
Put  all  the  fifty  days  of  our  journey  together,  and 
we  would  have  exchanged  them  all  for  rainy  ones  if 
we  could  have  been  assured  a  bright  day  for  this  oc- 
casion. It  came,  a  magnificent  day.  The  sun  shone 
forth  as  if  glad  to  shine  upon  this  the  most  memorable 
day  of  my  mother's  life  or  of  mine,  as  far  as  days  can 
be  rendered  memorable  by  the  actions  of  our  fellow- 
men.  We  left  Edinburgh  and  reached  Queensferry 
in  time  for  the  noon  boat.  Here  was  the  scene  so 
finely  given  in  "  Marmion,"  which  I  tried,  however, 
in  vain  to  recall  as  I  gazed  upon  it.  If  Dunfermline 
and  its  thunders  had  not  been  in  the  distance,  I  think 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  '  183 

I  could  have  given  it  after  a  fashion,    but   I   failed 
altogether  that  morning. 

"  But  northward  far,  with  purer  blaze, 
On  Ochil  mountains  fell  the  rays. 
And  as  each  heathy  top  they  kissed. 
It  gleamed  a  purple  amethyst. 
Yonder  the  shores  of  Fife  you  saw  ; 
Here  Preston  Bay,  and  Berwick  Law  ; 
And  broad  between  them  rolled, 
The  gallant  Firth  the  eye  might  note. 
Whose  inlands  on  its  bosom  float. 
Like  emeralds  chased  in  gold." 

And  truly  it  was  a  morning  in  which  nature's 
jewels  sparkled  at  their  best.  Upon  reaching  the 
north  shore  we  were  warmly  greeted  by  Uncle  and 
Aunt  Lauder,  and  Maggie  and  Annie.  It  was  de- 
cided better  not  to  risk  luncheon  in  the  ruins  of 
Rosythe  Castle,  as  we  had  intended,  the  grass  being 
reported  damp  from  recent  rains.  We  accordingly 
drove  to  the  inn,  but  we  were  met  at  the  door  by 
the  good  landlady,  who,  with  uplifted  hands,  ex- 
claimed :  "  I'm  a'  alane  !  There's  naebody  in  the 
house  !  They're  a'  awa'  to  Dunfermline  !  There'll 
be  2:reat  2:oinfjs  on  there  the  day." 

A  hotel  without  one  servant.  The  good  woman, 
however,  assured  us  we  might  come  in  and  help 
ourselves  to  anything  in  the  house  ;  so  we  managed 
to  enjo}^  our  luncheon,  some  of  us  only  after  a  fash- 
ion. There  were  three  gentlemen,  a  wife,  and  a 
cousin  who  for  the  first  time  did  not  care  much  for 
anything  in  the  form  of  luncheon.  Speeches, 
speeches,  these  are  what  troubled  Harry,  Davie,  and 
me  ;  and  I  had  cause  for  grave  alarm,  of  which 
the}-  could  form   little   idea,  fo-r   I    felt  that   if   Dun- 


184  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

fermline  had  been  touched  and  her  people  had  deter- 
mined to  give  us  a  public  reception,  there  was  no 
saying  to  what  lengths  they  might  go. 

If  I  could  decently  have  stolen  away  and  gone 
round  by  some  circuitous  route,  sending  my  fellow 
townsmen  an  apology,  and  telling  them  that  I  really 
felt  myself  unable  to  undergo  the  ordeal,  I  should 
have  been  tempted  to  do  so.  I  was  also  afraid  that 
mother  would  break  doAvn,  for  if  ever  her  big  black 
eyes  get  wet  it's  all  over  with  her..  How  fortunate  it 
was  that  Mrs.  Hill  was  with  her  to  keep  her  right  ! 
It  was  wisely  resolved  that  she  should  take  mother 
inside  of  the  coach  and  watch  over  her.  I  bit  my 
lip,  told  the  Charioteers  they  were  in  for  it  and 
must  go  through  without  flinching,  that  now  the 
crisis  had  come  I  was  just  bound  to  stand  anything. 
I  was  past  stage-fright,  and  I  assured  myself  that 
they  could  do  their  worst — I  was  callous  and  would 
not  be  moved — but  to  play  the  part  of  a  popular 
hero  even  for  a  day,  wondering  all  the  time  what 
you  have  done  to  deserve  the  outburst,  is  fearful 
work.  When  I  did  get  time  to  think  of  it,  my 
tower  of  strength  lay  in  the  knowledge  that  the 
spark  which  had  set  fire  to  their  hearts  was  mother's 
return  and  her  share  in  the  day's  proceedings. 
Grand  woman,  she  has  deserved  all  that  was  done  in 
her  honor  even  on  that  day.  What  she  has  done  for 
her  two  boys  is  incredible — ^a  romance  if  truly  writ- 
ten— but  what  she  has  done  for  herself  is  more  in- 
credible still,  for  she  is  the  centre  from  which  radi- 
ates, in  small  as  in  great  things,  the  clear  rays  of  un- 
impeachable truth  and  honor.  Mother's  statements, 
from  "  I  shall  be  glad  to  see  you,"  uttered  to  an  ac- 


I 


BRTGHTOM    TO   INVERNESS.  185 

qiiaintance,  up  to  the  most  serious  things  of  life,  fall 
as  if  preceded  with  "  thus  saith  the  Lord,"  for  they 
are  always  true.  So  I  kept  m3'self  strong  in  the 
knowledge  that  this  ovation  was  for  her,  and  stronger 
in  the  further  faith  that  it  was  deserved. 

A  man  stopped  us  at  the  junction  of  the  roads  to 
inform  us  that  we  were  expected  to  pass  through 
the  ancient  borough  of  Innerkeithing,  but  I  forgot 
myself  there.  It  seemed  a  fair  chance  to  escape  part 
of  the  excitement  (we  had  not  yet  begun  the  cam- 
paign as  it  were)  ;  at  all  events  I  dodged,  to  escape 
the  first  fire,  as  raw  troops  are  always  said  to  do,  and 
so  we  took  the  direct  road.  When  the  top  of  the 
Ferry  Hills  was  reached  we  saw  the  town,  all  as  dead 
as  if  the  holy  Sabbath  lay  upon  it,  without  one  evi- 
dence of  life.  How  beautiful  is  Dunfermline  seen 
from  the  Ferry  Hills,  its  grand  old  abbey  towering 
ov^er  all,  seeming  to  hallow  the  city  and  to  lend  a 
charm  and  dignity  to  the  lowliest  tenement.  Nor  is 
there  in  all  broad  Scotland,  nor  in  many  places  else- 
where that  I  know  of,  a  more  varied  and  delightful 
view  than  that  obtained  from  the  park  upon  a  fine 
day.  What  Benares  is  to  the  Hindoo,  Mecca  to  the 
Mohammedan,  Jerusalem  to  the  Christian,  all  that 
Dunfermline  is  to  me. 

But  here  I  must  stop.  If  you  want  to  learn  how 
impulsive  and  enthusiastic  the  Scotch  are  when  once 
aroused,  how  dark  and  stern  and  true  is  the  North, 
and  yet  how  fervid  and  overwhelming  in  its  love 
when  the  blood  is  up,  I  do  not  know  "where  you  will 
find  a  better  evidence  of  it  than  in  what  follows.  See 
how  small  a  spark  kindled  so  great  a  flame.  Mother 
and  I  are  still  somewhat  shamefaced  about  it,  but 


1 86  OUR   COACHING    TRIP. 

somehow  or  other  we  managed  to  go  through   with 
our  parts  without  breaking  down. 


Dunfermline,  July  27-28. 
The  following  are  the  accounts,  from  the  Press 
and  y<:;'//r«(T'/ newspapers  of  Dunfermline,  of  July  30, 
1 88 1,  which  seem  necessary  to  make  the  record  of 
the  trip  complete,  but  which  all  except  those  deeply 
interested*  may  skip  : 

THE  CARNEGIE  DEMONSTRATION. 
There  was  one  feature  in  the  great  demonstration 
which  took  place  in  Dunfermline  on  Wednesday, 
that  must  have  very  much  enhanced  its  value  in  the 
eyes  of  the  public-spirited  gentleman  in  whose  honor 
it  was  held,  and  that  was,  its  almost  entire  unanim- 
ity. There  may  have  been  some  difference  of  opin- 
ion at  first  among  the  inhabitants  as  to  the  advisa- 
bility of  adopting  the  Libraries  Act  in  Dunfermline, 
as  there  was  lately  in  Edinburgh  ;  but  there  did  not 
seem  to  be  any  at  all  either  as  to  the  value  of  the 
gifts  which  Mr.  Andrew  Carnegie  has  bestowed 
upon  his  native  town,  or  as  to  the  propriety  of  doing 
all  due  honor  to  the  man  to  whom  honor  was  due. 
If  all  the  inhabitants  of  Dunfermline  did  not  take 
part  in  the  magnificent  procession  which  took  place, 
few  there  were  who  did  not  turn  out  to  the  Public 
Park  or  the  streets  to  do  full  justice  to  the  occasion. 
Great  as  are  the  benefits  which  Mr.  Carnes:ie  has  be- 
stowed  upon  Dunfermline,  and  much  as  these  are 
appreciated  by  the  inhabitants,  it  may  safely  be  said, 
however,  that  the  enthusiasm  which  was  manifested 
at  the  laying  of  the  memorial  stone  of  the  Free  Li- 
brary on  Wednesday  had  a  deeper  significance  than 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  187 

the  mere  gratitude  which  most  people  naturally  feel 
for  favors  received.  Mr.  Carnegie  is,  in  every  sense 
of  the  word,  a  representative  man  ;  and  all  classes 
of  the  community  recognize  in  him  an  example  of 
self-reliance,  energy,  perseverance,  and  generous- 
heartedness,  that  not  only  do  honor"  to  the  "  Auld 
Gray  Toon,"  but  may  prove  an  incentive  in  the 
future  to  generations  yet  unborn.  It  was  in  this 
spirit,  we  doubt  not,  that  so  many  trades,  public 
works,  societies,  and  fraternities  combined  to  do 
honor  to  their  former  townsman  ;  and,  certainly,  no 
more  stirring  sight  was  ever  seen  in  Dunfermline 
than  when  the  people,  assembled  in  their  thousands 
in  the  Public  Park,  gave  him  a  right  hearty  welcome 
to  his  native  town,  and,  in  well-chosen  words,  ex- 
pressed their  gratitude  to  him  for  the  invaluable  gifts 
which  he  had  bestowed  upon  the  community.  The 
American  friends  who  are  travelling  with  Mr.  Car- 
negie and  his  revered  mother  have  seen  a  good 
many  demonstrations  in  tlieir  day — even  the  great 
demonstration  at  Leith  on  Tuesday,  on  the  opening 
of  the  new  Edinburgh  dock — and  have  themselves 
received  much  respect  and  consideration  while  on 
their  "  four-in-hand  "  journey  through  England  to 
Scotland  ;  but  they  have  had  to  confess,  that  they 
were  more  than  surprised  at  the  spontaneous  burst 
of  enthusiasm  with  which  Mr.  Carnegie  and  his  re- 
spected mother  were  everywhere  received  in  Dun- 
fermline. It  was  a  revelation  to  them  which  they 
will  not  soon  forget  ;  and  however  much  they  may 
have  been  disposed  to  believe  in  the  familiar  adage, 
"  Out  of  sight,  out  of  mind,"  they  were  compelled 
to  admit  that  to  whatever  part  of  the  world  the  sons 


l88  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

of  Dunfermline  may  wander  to  fight  out  for  them- 
selves "  the  battle  of  life,"  and  to  whatever  position 
they  may  attain  in  the  struggle,  they  are  still  re- 
membered with  kindly  feelings  by  the  "  old  folks  at 
home,"  and  are  gladly  welcomed  by  all  who  know 
them  when  the}'  return  to  the  scenes  ot  their  youth. 
Perhaps  there  was  no  more  affecting  part  of  Wed- 
nesday's proceedings  than  when  the  successful  man 
of  business — the  wealthy  and  influential  iron  king  of 
Pittsburgh  and  New  York — paused,  in  his  triumph- 
ant progress  through  the  town,  at  the  humble  dwell- 
ing where  he  was  born,  and  took  a  long  and  loving 
look  at  the  plain  old  building  ;  or  when,  in  the  even- 
ing at  the  great  banquet  which  was  held  in  St. 
Margaret's  Hall,  the  large  and  influential  assembly 
joined  heartily  in  the  refrain  of  the  fine  old  Scotch 
ballad,  "  Will  ye  no'  come  back  again" — a  refrain, 
it  need  hardly  be  said,  which  was  most  appropriate 
to  the  occasion,  and  which  produced  upon  Mr.  Car- 
negie and  his  lady  and  gentlemen  friends  an  effect 
that  was  as  touching  as  it  was  creditable  to  them. 

But  much  as  Dunfermline  has  to  thank  Mr.  Car- 
negie for,  she  is  by  no  means  the  only  recipient  of 
his  bounties.  It  was  only  the  other  day  that  an  in- 
stitute not  a  hundred  miles  from  Bannockburn  had 
to  acknowledge  his  generosity  in  the  form  of  a  large 
subscription  which  he  had  presented  to  it,  in  aid  of 
the  commendable  objects  it  has  in  view.  And  we 
have  it  from  the  best  authority,  that  it  is  one  of  the 
standing  rules  in  the  office  of  his  great  establishment 
in  New  York,  that  no  native  of  Dunfermline  who 
calls  upon  him  for  advice  or  assistance  is  ever  to  be 
sent  away  without  his  knowledge  or  without  seeing 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  189 

him  if  at  all  possible.  Like  most  great  business  men 
who  have  carved  out  a  fortune  for  themselves  by 
their  own  indomitable  energy  and  intellectual  ability, 
Mr.  Carnegie  is  liable  to  be  dropped  upon  by  im- 
postors ;  but  we  believe  that  no  real  case  of  hardship 
or  of  difficulty  has  ever  come  before  him  personally 
without  his  having  done  something  to  the  removal 
of  it.  In  one  word,  in  doing  honor  to  Mr.  Carnegie 
and  his  personal  friends  on  Wednesday,  the  people 
of  Dunfermline  did  honor  to  one  whose  deeds  of 
charity  and  benevolence  are  as  well,  and  perhaps 
better,  known  in  the  country  of  his  adoption  than  they 
are  in  his  native  town.  And  we  can  only  re-echo 
the  sentiments  which  were  expressed  by  so  many  in- 
fluential gentlemen  at  the^  banquet  in  the  evening — 
that  the  Public  Baths  and  the  Free  Library  which 
Mr.  Carnegie  has  so  generousl}^  presented  to  the 
town  will  be  taken  advantage  of  in  such  a  way  as 
will  show  him  that  their  real  worth  are  duly  appre- 
ciated by  the  community  whose  welfare  he  has  so 
deeply  at  heart. 

MR.    CARNEGIE'S   "FOUR-IN-HAND'"    TOUR. 

The  interesting  journey  which  Mr.  Carnegie  is 
now  making  through  Scotland,  as  lie  has  already 
done  in  England,  will  give  the  American  friends  who 
accompany  him  a  good  opportunity  of  carrying  away 
with  them  many  pleasant  memories  of  the  "  old 
country."  The  mode  of  travelling  which  he  has 
adopted  is  one  which  brings  to  mind  the  old  cf)ach- 
ing  days,  with  the  exciting  vicissitudes  of  the  road, 
the  quaint  but  i)icturesque  villages  and  old  liostel- 
ries,  and  the  broad  expanse  of  landscape  and  ever- 
^3 


I  go 


OUR   COACHING    TRIP. 


changing  scenes  which  meet  the  eye  from  the  com- 
fortable outside  seat  of  a  well-appointed  "  four-in- 
hand,"  as  it  bowls  along.  And  when  Mr.  Carnegie 
contemplated  so  lengthened  a  journey  as  he  is  now 
making,  he  did  well,  we  think,  in-arranging  to  travel 
in  the  old-fashioned  style,  and  to  carry  along  with 
him  the  necessary  materials  and  appliances  for  min- 
istering to  the  creature  comforts  of  himself  and  nu- 
merous party.  His  journey  has  as  yet  proved  a  very 
pleasant  and  agreeable  one  ;  and  Dunfermline  is  not 
the  only  town  which  he  has  passed  through  that  has 
received  him  with  marked  honor  and  respect  ;  nor 
is  the  silver  trowel  which  was  presented  to  Mrs. 
Carnegie  after  she  laid  the  memorial  stone  of  the 
Dunfermline  Free  Library  the  only  presentation  that 
has  been  made  during  the  course  of  the  journey. 
Starting  from  Brighton,  shortly  after  their  arrival 
from  America,  Mr.  Carnegie  and  his  mother,  along 
with  their  American  and  other  friends,  proceeded 
thi"ough  various  parts  of  England  on  their  way  to 
Scotland.  His  party  included  Mr.  and  Mrs.  King, 
and  Mr.  G.  F.  McCandless,  of  New  York  ;  Mr.  rfnd 
Mrs.  McCargo,  Miss  J.  Johns,  Mr.  H.  Phipps,  Jr., 
and  Mr.  B.  F.  Vandevort,  of  Pittsburgh  ;  Miss  Alice 
French,  Davenport  ;  and  Miss  Emma  Franks,  Liver- 
pool. Among  other  places  which  they  visited  was 
Windsor,  where  Mrs.  Carnegie  was  presented  by 
the  party  with  a  handsome  gold-plated  silver  cup  on 
reaching  her  seventy-first  birthday.  From  Windsor, 
the  party  visited  in  succession  Oxford,  Warwick 
Castle,  Kenilworth,  Coventry,  Birmingham,  and 
Wolverhampton — at  the  latter  of  which  places  they 
were  hospitably  entertained  for  a  week  by  Mr.  and 


BRIGHTON-   TO  IIVVERNESS.  191 

Mrs.  T.  Graham  (late  Mrs.  Whitelaw,  Dunfermline), 
and  many  other  friends.  Lichfield,  Dovedale,  and 
Kendal  were  next  passed  through  ;  and  on  the  arrival 
of  the  party  at  the  Westmoreland  Lakes,  a  halt  was 
called,  and  a  pleasant  week  was  spent  in  visiting  the 
beautiful  scenes  wdiich  the  poet  Wordsworth  has  im- 
mortalized by  his  pen.  Proceeding  next  to  Dum- 
fries, the  party  were  kindl}''  entertained  by  Mr.  Nel- 
son, of  Friars  Carse  (Ellisland),  where  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Carnegie  renewed  their  recollections  of  our  national 
poet,  "  Robert  Burns."  Arrived  at  Lanark,  an  in- 
teresting visit  was  made  to  Douglas  Castle  ;  then 
posting  on  to  Edinburgh — where  the  more  prominent 
objects  of  interest  in  the  metropolis  of  Scotland 
were  inspected — some  of  the  party  proceeded  to 
Leith  on  Tuesda}'  to  witness  the  great  demonstra- 
tion at  the  opening  of  the  new  Edinburgh  dock.  The 
visit  to  Dunfermline — the  most  interesting  and  most 
memorable  of  all — is  fully  described  elsewhere  ;  and 
yesterday  forenoon  Mr.  Carnegie  and  party  set  off 
in  their  "four-in-hand"  for  a  tour  to  the  north  of 
Scotland,  by  way  of  Perth  and  Dunkeld.  Among 
those  who  have  already  accompanied  Mr.  Carnegie 
and  his  American  friends  during  a  portion  of  their 
journey  ma}-  be  mentioned  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Graham, 
Wolverhampton  ;  Miss  Jane  Reid,  the  Misses  Lau- 
der, Miss  K.  Graham,  and  Mr.  A.  Martin,  Dunferm- 
line— all  of  whom,  we  need  hardly  say,  can  testify  to 
the  geniality  and  hospitality  of  their  entertainer,  the 
harmon}-  and  good  humor  that  prevailed  among  the 
company,  and  the  healthful  enjoyment  which  all  ex- 
perienced in  their  rather  unusual  but  delightful  mode 
of  travelling. 


192  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

LAYING     OF     THE     MEMORIAL     STONE    OF     THE 
CARNEGIE     FREE     LIBRARY. 

GREAT   DEMONSTRATION. 

The  memorial  stone  of  the  Carnegie  Free  Libra- 
ry M^is  laid  on  Wednesday  by  Mrs.  Carnegie,  the 
mother  of  the  generous  donor,  amid  great  enthusi- 
asm. Seldom  if  ever  has  Dunfermline  witnessed 
such  a  grand  display  of  flags  and  banners,  or  the 
organization  of  a  procession  so  large  in  numbers,  so 
orderly,  so  enthusiastic,  and  so  picturesque  in  ap- 
pearance. Every  one  in  the  community  seemed  to 
vie  with  each  other  in  making  the  occasion  memo- 
rable, and  the  result  was  a  decided  success,  far  ex- 
ceeding the  most  sanguine  anticipations  regarding  it. 
The  demonstration  may  be  said  to  be  unparalleled 
in  the  history  of  Dunfermline,  and  was  alike  worthy 
of  the  or-entleman  in  whose  honor  it  was  made  and 
the  occasion  which  called  it  forth. 

It  falls  to  the  lot  of  very  few  towns  to  have  such 
a  son  as  Mr.  Carnegie,  who  amid  all  the  worldly 
wealth  which  he  has  so  honorably  amassed  for  him- 
self in  a  foreign  land,  still  evinces  a  deep  and  keen 
interest  in  the  welfare  of  his  native  city  of  Dunferm- 
line, and  exhibits  that  interest  in  generously  provid- 
ing it  with  public  baths  and  a  free  library— gifts  cal- 
culated to  be  of  immense  benefit  to  the  inhabitants. 
It  was  therefore  only  proper,  when  Mr.  Carnegie, 
who  is  accompanied  by  Mrs.  Carnegie  and  a  number 
of  friends  from  America,  expressed  his  intention  of 
visiting  Dunfermline  for  the  purpose  of  having  the 
memorial  stone  laid  of  the  institution  which  he  has 
so    handsomely  gifted  to    the    town,    that   business 


BRIGHTON  TO   INVERNESS.  193 

should  be  generally  suspended,  and  the  inhabitants 
turn  out  and  give  him  a  hearty  reception,  as  a  token 
of  the  gratitude  they  entertain  for  the  great  benefits 
he  has  bestowed  upon  his  native  town.  The  manner 
in  which  this  was  done  on  Wednesday  showed  very 
unmistakably  how  much  the  inhabitants  of  Dun- 
fermline appreciate  his  generosity.  The  idea  of 
having  a  demonstration  worthy  of  the  occasion  Avas 
first  mooted  by  the  Library  Committee,  who  re- 
spectfully invited  the  different  trades  and  public 
bodies  to  meet  and  make  the  necessary  arrange- 
ments. The  representatives  of  these  bodies  entered 
enthusiastically  into  the  matter,  and  the  arrange- 
ments made  were  of  a  very  satisfactory  character, 
and  were  carried  into  effect  most  successfully. 

TIT?:   nECORATIONS   THROUGHOUT   THE  TOWN. 

From  an  early  hour  on  Wednesday  great  prepa- 
rations v/cre  made  to  give  the  town  a  gay  appear- 
ance, and  the  efforts  of  a  large  number  of  people  to 
do  so  with  suitable  decorations  had  the  desired 
effect.  From  priv^ate  and  public  buildings  numerous 
flags  and  banners  were  displayed  ;  and  on  the  Cor- 
poration Buildings  there  floated  the  Scottish  Stand- 
ard and  a  flag  bearing  the  city  arms.  At  other 
points  in  the  High  vStreet  bimting  was  exhibited — 
the  strings  of  flags  from  Mr.  R.  Nicol  junior's  shop 
across  to  the  Townhouse,  and  to  the  roof  of  the  old 
library  building,  especiall}^  being  very  effective  ;  but 
what  attracted  the  most  attentiun  was  a  huge  banner 
hung  across  the  street  from  Mr.  Rolland's  shop, 
which  bore  the  ver}?  appropriate  motto,  "  Welcome 
Carnegie,  generous  son."      Farther  along  the  street 


194  OUR   COACHING    TRTP. 

a  line  of  flags  was  stretched  across  from  Mr.  Tay- 
lor's studio  to  Mr.  Grieve's  shop,  on  which  was  the 
word,  "  Trinacria."  On  the  Gate  Tower  of  the 
palace  were  floating  the  national  flags  of  America, 
England,  and  Scotland.  Here  due  honor  was  done 
to  the  combined  flags  by  Mr.  Carnegie's  carriage 
stopping  underneath  them,  and  the  occupants  giving 
vent  to  their  patriotic  feelings  in  several  rounds  of 
cheers.  At  St.  Margaret's  Hall,  the  Post-Office,  the 
City  Arms  and  other  hotels,  the  Music  Hall,  banks, 
shops,  factories,  and  other  public  works,  there  was 
more  or  less  bunting  displayed  ;  while  at  the  en- 
trance of  the  town  at  Bothwell  Street  was  erected 
a  very  tasteful  triumphal  arch.  The  greatest  dis- 
play, however,  was  at  the  Library  Buildings,  which 
w^ere  decorated  in  a  very  artistic  manner. 

THE   PROCESSION. 

To  the  general  public  the  most  attractive  feature 
of  the  day's  proceedings  was  the  large  and  pictu- 
resque procession.  Work  was  generally  suspended 
at  one  o'clock,  and  the  streets  from  that  time  wore  a 
very  lively  aspect.  Crowds  of  people  were  to  be 
seen  taking  advantage  of  the  most  prominent  places 
from  which  a  good  view  could  be  obtained  of  the 
pageant.  The  arrangements  made  were  closely  ad- 
hered to  in  all  details,  and  at  three  o'clock  large 
contingents  from  the  various  trades,  public  works, 
and  societies,  wended  their  way  to  the  Public  Park, 
which  was  the  general  marshalling  ground  of  the 
procession.  Here  a  great  crowd  of  people  had  as- 
sembled on  the  slopes  above  the  central  walk,  and 
the  movements  of  the  marshals — Messrs.  Robertson, 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  195 

Halliday,  and  Sergeant  Brown  —as  they  proceeded 
to  arrange  the  procession  in  proper  order,  were 
watched  with  much  interest.  At  half-past  three 
o'clock,  the  time  appointed  for  the  procession  to 
start,  every  one  of  the  different  works  and  societies 
were  in  their  allotted  places,  and,  accompanied  by 
the  Elgin,  Townhill,  Lassodie,  Crossgates,  and  For- 
dell  brass  bands,  who  were  placed  at  intervals,  the 
procession  moved  off,  amid  great  cheering,  in  the 
following  order  :  Oddfellows,  Dyers,  Bakers  ;  Free 
Gardeners,  including  the  Ancient  Society;  Foresters, 
workers  at  Dunfermline  Foundry  ;  the  work  people 
at  Victoria  and  Castleblair,  Canmore,  St.  Leonard's, 
Dunfermline, Caledonian,  St.  Margaret's,  Abbey  Gar- 
dens, Both  well,  Alban}^,  and  Clayacres  Factories, 
including  Bleachers.  The  route  taken  was  by 
Comely  Park  Place  and  New  Row.  The  procession 
presented  a  very  imposing  appearance,  and  numbered 
about  8000  —5000  of  which  may  be  safely  said  to  have 
represented  the  different  factories.  The  spectacle 
which  the  procession  presented  as  they  proceeded  to 
Both  well  Street  was  one  wh'ich  is  seldom  witnessed. 
The  clean  and  tidy  appearance  of  the  females  and 
the  other  workers  in  the  factories — many  of  whom 
bore  flags,  with  suitable  mottoes,  and  various  minia- 
ture designs  of  the  machines  used  in  the  preparation 
and  weaving  of  the  damask  linen  ;  the  lively  cos- 
tumes of  the  Oddfellows,  Gardeners,  and  Foresters, 
"with  the  jicculiar  insignia  of  their  order  and  other 
emblems  of  brotherhood,  along  with  the  display  of 
the  Dyers,  Bakers,  and  Bleachers,  made  a  pageant 
which  all  who  witnessed  it  or  took  part  in  it  will 
long  remember.   The  head  of  the  procession  reached 


196  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

Bothwell  Place  shortly  before  four  o'clock,  and  here 
the  Provost,  Magistrates,  and  Town  Council  were 
stationed  at  each  side  of  the  street  in  brakes,  in  which 
they  had  been  driven  down  from  the  Townhouse, 
preceded  by  three  pipers  and  the  burgh  ofhcer  with 
his  halberd.  A  large  concourse  of  people  had  as- 
sembled here  to  give  Mr.  Carnegie  a  hearty  welcome 
on  his  approach  to  the  town.  Punctual  to  time — 
four  o'clock — Mr.  Carnegie,  along  with  a  party  of 
friends,  drove  up  in  his  four-in-hand  coach,  and  the 
crowd  received  him  with  loud  and  prolonged  cheer- 
ing, which  Mr.  Carnegie  gracefully  acknowledged. 
Shortly  after,  the  processionists  began  to  move, 
and  as  they  passed  the  Gusset  House,  constant  and 
heart}';  cheers  were  given  by  them — the  females 
waving  their  handkerchiefs.  The  procession  took 
fully  twenty  minutes  to  pass,  and  was  upward  of  a 
mile  in  length.  The  distinguished  visitors,  with  the 
members  of  the  Town  Council,  followed  the  proces- 
sion ;  and  as  they  were  driven  through  the  crowded 
streets,  Mr.  Carnegie  received  a  perfect  ovation  from 
the  people,  which  he  repeatedly  acknowledged.  The 
route  taken  was  by  the  Netherton  and  Moodie 
Street.  As  soon  as  the  top  of  this  street  was  reached 
the  carriages  were  stopped  opposite  the  house  in 
which  Mr.  Carnegie  was  born,  which  is  on  the  east 
side  of  the  street.  Hearty  cheers  were  at  once 
raised  by  the  strangers  and  crowd,  after  which  the 
party  proceeded  up  Gibb  wStreet,  Monastery  Street, 
Kirkgate,  High  Street,  East  Port  Street,  and  Holy- 
rood  Place — Mr.  Carnegie  meantime  receiving  en- 
thusiastic greetings  from  the  occupants  of  the  well- 
filled    windows    and    the    people    on    the    different 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  197 

streets,  and  the  bells  of  the  Abbey  and  Townhouse 
ringing  out  merr)'  peals  all  the  while.  The  three 
carriages  passed  through  an  assemblage  uf  people, 
who  must  have  numbered  10,000,  to  a  platform 
which  had  been  erected  on  the  south  side  of  the  up- 
per walk  to  enable  the  workingmcn  to  present  Mr. 
Carnegie  with  an 

ILLUMINATED   ADDRESS. 

As  soon  as  the  platform  was  filled,  the  people 
crowded  round  it  as  close  as  possible  in  order  to  wit- 
ness the  proceedings.  The  company  on  the  platform 
included  Mrs.  and  ]Mr.  Carnegie  ;  Mrs.  D.  O.  Hill, 
Edinburgh  ;  Mr.  Carnegie's  friends  ;  ex-Provost 
Mathieson  ;  Provost  Walls  ;  Bailies  Walker,  Steed- 
man,  Seath,  and  Lamond  ;  ex-Bailie  Inglis  ;  Treas- 
urer Blair  ;  Councillors  Beveridge,  Donald,  Alston, 
Lee,  Brown,  Roberton,  Spence,  and  Stewart  ; 
Messrs.  J.  Drummond,  R.  Reid,  G.'  Lauder,  G.  W. 
Robertson,  and  J.  C.  Walker,  architect,  Edinburgh. 
The  committee  appointed  by  the  workingmen  to 
prepare  and  present  the  address  were  then  intro- 
duced to  Mr.  Carnegie  and  Provost  Walls,  and  im- 
mediately 

Mr.  I).  Thomson,  manager  of  the  Abbey  Garden 
Works,  said  :  We,  the  workingmen  of  Dunfermline- 
and  in  speaking  of  the  workingmen  T  suppose  I  may 
take  in  the  whole  city — we  regard  this  day  as  one  of 
no  little  importance  in  our  annals.  It  is  not  every 
day  that  a  free  library  is  inaugurated  in  our  midst. 
We  believe  that  this  institution,  which  is  now  about 
to  be  opened,  will  be  of  great  credit  to  the  cit)*  and 


198  OUR   COACHING    TRIP. 

of  great  value  to  us  workingmen  ;  and  we  desire,  on 
the  present  occasion,  to  offer  to  the  Hberal  donor  of 
the  Public  Baths  and  Free  Library  one  word  at  least 
of  thanks  and  welcome.  (Cheers.)  Time  was  when 
the  workingmen  of  Dunfermline  were  regarded  as 
perhaps  one  of  the  m^st  intelligent  communities  in 
the  country,  and  candidates  for  pohtical  honors  knew 
that  they  need  not  come  here  talking  soft  nothings, 
the  political  leavings  of  other  communities,  and  with 
nothing  but  the  adventitious  aids  of  family  connec- 
tion ;  but  that  unless  they  came  with  sound  argu- 
ments and  well-hardened  facts  they  need  not  come  at 
all.  I  do  believe  to  some  extent  we  are  distinguished 
by  the  same  qualities  of  our  forefathers.  The  weav- 
ers of  a  past  generation  or  two  had  perhaps  more 
liberty  during  the  day  than  we  have,  and  they  could 
come  o'ut  in  mid-forenoon  to  read  the  newspapers, 
and  discuss  and  heckle  the  characters  of  men  in  high 
places  ;  but  if  we  cannot  come  out  of  our  places  at 
mid-forenoon,  or  mid-afternoons,  we  have  our  even- 
ings, and  we  want  some  means  by  which  these  even- 
ings may  be  spent  in  a  rational  and  intelligent  man- 
ner. Our  benefactor,  Mr.  Carnegie,  in  his  own 
liberal  way,  has  now  provided  that  in  a  very  hand- 
some manner.  (Cheers.)  I  hope  that,  in  future  years, 
this  library  will  tell  upon  the  men  of  Dunfermline, 
and  that  the  workingmen  especially,  for  whom  these 
benefits  are  mainly  directed,  will  take  advantage  of 
this  library,  and  show  by  their  attendance  and  ap- 
preciation how^  much  they  .value  such  a  noble  institu- 
tion. (Loud  cheers.)  Without  saying  more,  I  will 
now  read  the  address  which  we  have  prepared.  It 
is  as  follows  : 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  199 

"  Address  hy  the  WorJiingimn  of  the  City  of  Dii!?fnnliiie  to  Andrew 
Carnegie,  Esq.,  of  Neiu  York,  on  the  occasion  of  the  Laying  of 
the   Memorial   Stone  of  the  Carnegie  Tree  Library,  27   jfniy,  1S81. 

"  Sir, — We,  the  vvorkingmen  of  Dunfermline,  gladly  avail  our- 
selvei;  of  this  opportunity  of  welcoming  you  to  your  naiive  city,  and  of 
expressing  to  you  our  high  appreciation  of  your  noble  generosity  to 
this  coniinuniiy. 

"  While  rejoicing  in  the  success  which  has  attended  your  commer- 
cial enterprises,  it  is  particularly  gratfying  to  the  sons  of  the  '  Auld 
Gray  Toon  '  that  your  generous  mind  has  found  means  of  usefulness 
for  part  of  your  worldly  wealth  by  seeking  to  benefit  the  working 
classes  of  this  town. 

•'  By  your  handsome  gift  of  Public  Baths  and  a  Free  Library,  you 
have  shown  a  real  interest  in  our  welfare,  and  we  now  desire  to 
assure  you  of  our  heartfelt  gratitude  for  these  inestimable  boons. 

"  It  is  our  earnest  wish  that  you  mny  long  be  spared  to  enjoy 
continued  health  and  happiness,  and  that  prosperity  which  has 
hitherto  attended  you  in  the  land  of  your  adoption. 

"  In  name    and  on  behalf  of  the  workingmen  of  Dunfermline. 

(Signed)  "  Peter  Easson. 

"  Daniel  Thomson. 

Peter  Blackwood. 
"  John  Weir. 

"  jAMi.s  Brown." 

Loud  and  prolonged  cheers  greeted  the  closing 
of  the  address,  which  was  written  on  vellum,  and 
executed  by  Messrs.  Scott  &  Ferguson,  Edinburgh  ; 
and  when  Mr.  Carnegie  rose  to  reply  the  acclama- 
tions were  ajjain  enthusiastically  renewed.  — > 

Mr.  Carnecrie  said  :  "  Workino;rtien  and  women  of 
Dunfermline,  it  seems  to  me  at  this  moment  as  if  I  had 
been  searching  all  my  life  for  some  great  prize,  I  knew 
not  what,  and  that  it  has  been  just  laid  at  my  feet. 
Nothing  could  so  have  touched  mv  heart,  nor  the 
heart  of  mv  mother,  as  the  spontanccnis  and  magnifi- 
cent ovation  vouchsafed  to  us  at  the   hands  of  our 


2  00  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

fellow-workmen  and  workingwomen  of  Dunfermline 
—(cheers) — for  I  tell  you  that  I  am  proud  to  claim 
the  title  of  a  workingman.  I  am  not  only  one  who 
works  with  his  brains,  but  one  who,  like  yourselves, 
has  toiled  with  his  hands.  The  first  dollar  that  I  ever 
earned  was  in  a  manufactory,  fiUing  the  spools,  as 
many  of  you  do  this  day.  (Cheers.)  I  have  come  from 
the  great  Republic,  where  I  have  -learned  the  true 
political  gospel  that  labor --what  a  man  himself  does 
—constitutes  the  only  true  title  to  honor — (cheers) — 
and  I  tell  you,  my  friends,  the  day  is  not  far  distant 
when  all  of  3^ou  will  decline  to  honor  a  man  on 
account  of  his  birth  ;  and  a  noble  man,  no  matter 
what  his  birth,  will  scorn  to  wear  a  title  which  he 
has  not  himself  earned.  (Cheers.)  My  friends,  I 
have  presented  to  you  a  Free  Library,  because  I 
thought  it  the  greatest  blessing  which  it  was  in  the 
power  of  one  of  yourselves  to  bestow  upon  this 
community.  (Cheers.)  Had  I  known  a  better  gift 
to  bestow  upon  you,  my  love  for  Dunfermline  and 
the  interest  I  take  in  all  her  inhabitants  would  have 
led  me  to  bestow  that  gift.  I  am  sure  my  mother 
and  myself  are  very  far  from  viewing  this  ovation, 
worthy  of  a  conqueror  returning  in  triumph,  as  a 
personal  affair  ;  we  receive  it  as  evidence  that  you 
fully  appreciate,  the  gift,  and  are  determined  to 
take  advantage  of  the  manifold  blessings  which  a 
Free  Library  is  calculated  to  bestow.  (Cheers.) 
You  may  dine  upon  humble  fare,  but  when  you 
enter  the  portals  of  the  Librar}'  a  banquet  worthy 
of  the  gods  is  yours  ;  and  ]et  me  tell  you  that' 
you*  enter  this  Library — not  as  strangers,  not  to 
commune  solely  with    men   of   a  class   above   your 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  201 

own — but  in  a  large  measure  to  receive  the  high- 
est wisdom  from  men  whose  hands  have  actually 
toiled  as  yours  have  done.  You  have  Shakespeare, 
the  mightiest  of  all  intellects,  and  your  own  genius 
Burns,  the  ploughman.  (Cheers.)  My  friends,  we 
must  learn  never  to  forget  that  there  is  no  title 
to  honor  to  be  compared  with  that  of  the  day's 
task  honestly  done.  (Cheers.)  I  will  keep  you  no 
longer,  but  allow  me  to  say  before  closing,  that  it  is 
impossible  that  any  act  which  I  may  perform  in  after 
life  can  give  me  the  gratification  flowing  from  this  if 
vou,  by  your  free  and  generous  use  of  the  Library, 
enable  me  to  indulge  the  sweet  thought  that  it  has 
been  my  privilege  to  bestow  upon  Dunfermline,  my 
native  town,  a  Free  Library,  which  has  proved  itself 
a  fountain  of  good  to  my  fellow-townsmen."  (Loud 
and  prolonged  cheers.) 

This  terminated  the  proceedings  at  the  park  ; 
and  the  party,  descending  from  the  platform,  entered 
the  carriages  and,  amid  the  plaudits  of  the  multi- 
tude, took  their  way  to  the  Free  Library  building, 
where  Mrs.  Carnegie  was  to  lay  the  memorial  stone. 

THE    LAYING    OF    THE    MEMORIAL   STONE. 

The  route  taken  b)  the  party  to  reach  the  Library 
was  by  East  Port  Street,  New  Row,  and  Canmore 
Street  ;  and  on  arriving  at  Abbot  Street,  at  half-past 
five  o'clock,  wiicre  a  dense  crowd  had  assembled  to 
witness  the  interesting  ceremony  of  laying  the 
memorial  stone  of  the  Library,  the  distinguished  visit- 
ors received  a  great  ovation.  The  different  points 
of  vantage  surrounding  the  Library  buildings  were 
fully  occupied  ;  and   people   were  seen  perched  on 


2  02  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

the  roofs  of  the  houses  opposite,  while  several  sat  on 
chimney-cans,  in  order  to  obtain  a  good  view.  A 
platform,  nearly  on  a  level  with  the  top  of  the  door- 
way where  the  stone  was  to  be  laid,  was  erected  in- 
side the  buildings,  to  accommodate  a  large  company 
of  ladies  and  gentlemen,  who  were  admitted  by 
ticket.  The  -accommodation  proved  to  be  small 
enough  for  the  number  that  availed  themselves  of 
the  privilege.  After  Mrs.  and  Mr.  Carnegie,  Pro- 
vost Walls,  and  the  members  of  the  Committee  had 
gathered  in  front  of  the  stone, 

Provost  Walls  said  if  there  were  two  institutions 
in   any   city   in    modern    days    more    required    than 
others,  they   were  a  free   library  and  public  baths. 
Some  years  ago,  the  people  of  Dunfermline  resolved 
on  obtaining  an  additional  supply  of  water.     They 
had  scarcely  got  it  in  when  a  friend  from  the  other 
side  of  the  Atlantic  came  to  visit  them,  and  he  be- 
thought him  how  he  could  best  apply  a  portion  of  it 
for  their  benefit  in  some  other  way  than  through  the 
painful  means  of  an  assessment.     That  friend,  like  a 
good-hearted    magician,    made   a   stroke     with    his 
wand,  the  Baths  arose,  and  they  were  now  in  use. 
It  took  some  time  before  people  became  sufificiently 
educated  to  be  able  fully  to  appreciate  even  the  most 
useful  things,  but  in  that  respect  he  was  glad  to  say 
that  the   Baths  were  prospering  every  month  in  in- 
creased ratio,  as  compared  with  the  corresponding 
months  of  previous  years.     A  Free  Library,  however, 
was  entirely  different  from  baths.     (Cheers.)     Edu- 
cation has  been  going  on,  and  people  are  ready  for 
it.     Formerly  education  was  general,  but  now  it  was 
universal  ;  and,  in  order  to  enjoy  the  advantage  of 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  203 

such  buildings  as  a  Free  Library,  people  must  read 
fluently  and  intelligently.  That  the  people  of  Dun- 
fermline thoroughly  appreciated  the  erection  and 
furnishing-  of  such  a  Library  was  evident  from  what 
they  saw  before  them.  The  hearty  demonstration 
they  had  witnessed  was  a  testimony  of  the  gratitude 
of  the  people  for  the  boon  which  had  been  conferred 
on  them  ;  and  he  had  no  doubt  that  generations  to 
come  would  still  more  value  its  aids  and  avail  them- 
selves of  its  contents,  and  alwa3's  bless  the  name  of 
Carnegie.  (Cheers.)  Turning  to  Mrs*.  Carnegie,  the 
Provost  said  :  "  I  have  now  to  address  m3^self  to  you, 
jNIadam.  By  the  magnificent  generosity  of  your 
noble  son  we  owe  this  valuable  gift,  and  I  have  now 
to  ask  you  to  lay  the  memorial  stone.  When  the 
Committee  in  charge  of  the  arrangements  heard  that 
Mr.  Carnegie  was  likely  to  be  in  wScotland,  they  im- 
mediately agreed  to  ask  him  to  lay  the  memorial 
stone,  as  it  was  too  late  to  lay  the  foundation  stone. 
With  that  filial  love  and  reverence  which  does  him 
infinite  honor,  Mr.  Carnegie  replied,  '  I  would  like 
you  to  ask  my  mother  to  do  it.'  (Cheers.)  I  have, 
therefore,  now  to  ask  you  to  lay  the  memorial  stone 
of  a  building  which  will  show  to  all  generations  what 
Mr.  Carnegie  has  done  for  his  native  town.  (Cheers.) 
I  have  now  to  present  you  with  this  silver  trowel." 

Mr.  Carnegie  then  deposited  a  hermetically - 
sealed  bottle  in  the  cavity,  which  contained  the 
Scotsman,  DuufcrinUiic  Press  and  Journal,  a  descrip- 
tion of  the  building,  "  Clark's  Guide  to  Dunferm- 
line," and  the  coins  of  the  realm. 

Mrs.  Carnegie  next  spread  the  mortar  over  the 
stone,  after  which  the  coping  was  lowered   into  its 


2  04  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

place  along  with  the  ornamental  finial.  The  stone 
was  then  plumbed  and  levelled  ;  and  after  Mrs.  Car- 
negie had  given  the  three  mystic  taps,  she  said,  "  I 
declare  this  memorial  stone  duly  and  properly  laid, 
and  may  God  bless  the  undertaking.'' 

The  Provost,  addressing  Mrs.  Carnegie,  said  :  "In 
the  name  of  the  Free  Library  Committee,  I  have  now 
to  present  you  with  this  trowel,  with  which  you 
have  this  day  done  this  great  work.  An  inscription 
has  yet  to  be  put  upon  it,  which  will  show  to  the 
people  who  come  after  you  what  you  were  enabled 
to  do  this  day."     (Cheers.) 

Mrs.  Carnegie  having  bowed  her  acknowledg- 
ments, most  of  the  company  proceeded  to  St.  Mar- 
garet's Hall,  to  partake  of  the  splendid  luncheon 
there  provided,  and  take  part  in  the  other  proceed- 
ings of  the  evening. 

The  large  crowds  were  very  orderly  all  day,  and 
there  was  very  little  undue  crushing.  Superintend- 
ent Stuart  and  the  burgh  police,  assisted  by  Super- 
intendent Chisholm  and  a  number  of  the  county 
force,  maintained  excellent  order  during  the  day. 

LUNCHEON  IN  ST.  MARGARET'S  HALL. 

Shortly  after  six  o'clock,  after  the  interesting 
ceremony  of  laying  the  memorial  stone,  Mrs.  and 
Mr.  Carnegie  and  friends  were  entertained  at  a 
grand  luncheon  in  St.  Margaret's  Hall,  where  cov- 
ers were  laid  for  260.  The  hall  was  gayly  decorated 
with  numerous  flags,  bannerets,  and  flowering 
shrubs,  and  presented  a  very  fine  appearance. 
Above  the  platform  there  was  suspended  a  white  flag 
bearing  the  following  inscription    printed    in    blue, 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  205 

"  Welcome  to  the  Noble- Hearted  Andrew  Carne- 
gie ;"  while  at  the  other  end  of  the  hall,  below  the 
gallery,  was  one  with  the  following  words:  "To 
the  Strangers  a  Kind  W^elcome."  In  addition  to 
the  ladies  and  gentlemen  at  the  tables,  the  gallery 
was  filled  with  ladies,  who  e\nnced  a  warm  interest 
in  the  proceedings.  Provost  Walls  presided,  and 
ex-Provost  Mathieson  and  Mr.  W.  Inglis  acted  as 
croupiers.  On  the  chairman's  right  were  Mrs.  Car- 
negie, New  York  ;  Mrs,  D.  O.  Hill,  Edinburgh  ; 
Mr.  Phipps,  Pittsburgh  ;  Miss  Franks,  Liverpool  ; 
Mr,  and  Mrs.  McCargo,  Pittsburgh  ;  and  Miss  A. 
Lauder,  Dunfermline  ;  and  on  the  left  the  honored 
guest  of  the  evening  ;  Colonel  and  Mrs,  Myers, 
Dunfermline  ;  Miss  J,  Johns,  Pittsburgh  ;  Mr. 
McCandless  (Mr.  Carnegie's  secretar}-).  New  York  ; 
Mr.  Yandevort,  Pittsburgh  ;  Miss  French,  Daven- 
port ;  Miss  Graham,  Wolverhampton  ;  and  Miss 
Roxburgh,  Edinburgh.  The  assemblage  was  a 
thoroughly  representative  one,  and  included  many 
of  the  working  classes.  Rev,  Dr.  Mitchell  said 
grace,  and  after  a  sumptuous  repast,  served  up  in 
Mr,  Anderson's,  of  the  City  Arms  Hotel,  best  st3de, 
the  Chairman  proposed  the  health  of  "  The  Queen," 
which  was  didy  honored. 

The  Chairman  :  "I  ask  you  now  to  drink  to  the 
health  of  another  potentate  who,  though  not  a 
crowned  rhonarch  as  our  most  gracious  Oucen,  rules 
over  one  of  the  most  powerful  empires  in  the  world 
— the  health  of  Mr,  Garfield,  the  President  of  the 
United  States.  (Cheers.)  It  is  not  often  we  have 
the  privilege  of  drinking  to  the  health  of  the  Presi- 
dent ;  but  seeing  that  wc  have  so  many  of  his  dis- 
H 


2o6  OUR   COACHING    TRIP. 

tinguished  subjects  before  us,  I  am  sure  you  will 
drink  his  health  as  heartily  as  we  have  drunk  that  of 
our  Queen's.  The  President  has  come  before  us 
lately  in  a  very, painful  manner,  enough  to  shock  the 
feelings  of  every  one  of  us.  We  lately  heard  of 
another  crowned  head  being  assassinated,  which  was 
to  be  deplored,  but  not  so  much  to  be  wondered  at, 
although  he  was  a  monarch  who  had  conferred  vast 
benefits  on  his  country  ;  and  because  he  did  not  go 
so  far  as  some  wished  he  was  assassinated.  Our  own 
beloved  Queen  has  not  been  free  from  the  terror  of 
the  assassin  ;  but  to  think  that  such  a  man,  so  noble 
as  President  Garfield,  who  himself  has  risen  to  the 
high  position  he  holds  by  his  own  efforts — who  was 
elected  to  it  by  the  votes  of  his  fellow-citizens— who 
was  respected  by  all  persons,  and  was  equally  at 
home  in  the  Senate  as  in  the  Sunday-school — that 
such  a  man  should  be  the  mark  for  the  assassin  to 
shoot  at  was  a  great  wonder  indeed.  I  can  assure 
our  American  friends  here  that  we  felt  as  deeply  as 
they  did  what  had  been  done  to  that  noble  gentle- 
man. I  am  glad  to  see  that  the  President  is  likely 
to  recover  ;  and  I  now  propose  his  health,  coupled 
with  that  of  Colonel  Myers,  the  representative  of 
America  in  t)unfermline."     (Cheers.) 

Colonel  Myers,  in  reply,  said  :  "  The  President  of 
the  United  States  has  my  hearty  sympathy,  and  I 
am  sure  he  has  all  yours  as  well.  We  all 'rejoice  at 
the  favorable  prospects  of  his  speedy  recovery  from 
the  wounds  inflicted  by  a  lunatic.  (Cheers.)  I  say 
a  lunatic,  because  it  is  hard  for  us  to  believe  that  any 
man  in  his  sound  senses  should  attempt  to  take  the 
life  of  the  President  of  the  United  States — (cheers) 


BRIGHTON   TO  INVERNESS.  207 

— a  man  in  whom  the  milk  of  human  kindness  flows 
to  overflowing,  and  in  whose  bosom  no  place  is  left 
for  anger,  animosity,  or  h()stility  to  any  human  be- 
ing alive.  (Cheers.)  I  have  met  President  Garfield 
on  the  battle-field  when  thousands  were  lying  around 
slain,  but  yet  although  he  had  the  spirit  of  warfare 
in  him,  when  you  looked  on  his  calm  face  you  could* 
not  but  feel  that  it  was  not  possible  for  him  to  treat 
his  fallen  foes  with  any  act  of  tyranny  or  of  oppres- 
sion. (Cheers.)  1  say,  I  repeat,  we  rejoice  at  the 
prospect  of  his  speedy  recovery,  which  will  be 
shared  by  all  the  civilized  word,  for  the  crime  of  as- 
sassination is  one  which  all  civilized  communities 
must  abhor.  It  is  the  act  of  the  cow^ard  ;  it  is  the 
act  of  the  insane  ;  it  is  the  act  of  one  that  we  all 
shun,  and  must  of  necessity  shun,  because  life  has  no 
value  if  the  assassin  is  applauded  for  his  deed. 
(Cheers.)  We  are  here  to-day  to  do  honor  to  Mr. 
Carnegie,  who  is  on  a  visit  at  the  present  time  to  his 
native  place  ;  and  although  he  is  a  citizen  of  my 
country,  and  you  have  no  longer  an  exclusive  claim 
on  him — although  he  is  rich,  and  has  any  amount  of 
the  comforts  of  this  life  to  be  able  to  procure  all  the 
luxuries  that  money  can  buy,  yet  by  his  generous 
and  liberal  gifts  to  this  town,  he  has  shown  to  you 
and  to  the  world  that  he  has  not  forgotten  the  peo- 
ple in  the  '  Auld  Gray  Toon.'  (Loud  cheers.)  I 
was  pleased  to  see  you  turn  out  so  well  as  you  did 
to  do  honor  to  a  poor  weaver's  son.  (Cheers.)  I 
was  pleased  to  see  a  demonstration  which,  T  am  sure, 
some  of  your  old  heads  never  expected  to  sec,  when 
you  saw  him  leave  this  town  to  seek  his  fortune  in 
the  far  West.     It  is  tome  a  great  pleasure  that  T  can 


2oS  OUR   COACH  I XG    TRIP, 

at  this  time  point  out  to  you  Mr.  Carnegie  as  a  liv- 
ing example  of  what  industry,  energy,  honesty,  and 
sobriety  can  do  for  a  man  in  the  noble  and  great  Re- 
public of  the  West.  (Cheers.)  Probably  every  one 
of  you  have  relatives  or  friends  out  in  America,  and 
you  are  aware  that  there  we  look  upon  the  poorest 
•as  equal  in  rights  to  the  richest.  We  have  no  nobil- 
ity there,  and  every  man  is  noble  who  behaves  him- 
self. Therefore,  it  gives  me  great  pleasure  to  point 
out  to  you  Mr.  Carnegie,  who  has  risen  by  his  own 
efforts  to  prominence,  respect,  and  plenty.  (Cheers.) 
The  demonstration  held  to-day  was  one  I  did  not  ex- 
pect to  see  from  the  people  of  Dunfermline,  for  they 
are  generally  so  cold,  and  not  easily  roused  to  enthu- 
siasm. I  see,  however,  that  when  you  are  put  on 
your  mettle,  and  you  are  requested  to  turn  out,  you 
have  no  hesitation  in  doing  so  in  a  style  befitting  a 
prince,  even  although  it  is  only  to  the  son  of  a 
weaver."     (Cheers.) 

"  The  Prince  and  Princess  of  Wales  and  the  other 
members  of  the  Royal  Family"  were  next  proposed 
by  the  Chairman,  after  which  followed  "  The  Army, 
Navy,  and  Reserve  Forces,"  coupled  with  the 
name  of 

Lieutenant  Martin,  who,  in  the  course  of  his  re- 
ply, stated  that  he  had  known  Mr.  Carnegie  from 
the  time  they  were  boys,  and  he  had  all  along  given 
evidence  of  attaining  the  high  position  which  he  now 
held.  To  the  best  of  bis  recollection,  Mr.  Carnegie 
was  at  the  head  of  every  class  he  was  in  at  school, 
and  he  held  a  high  position  among  the  other  boys  of 
the  school.  He  knew  that  by  comparison,  for  he  had 
felt  it  to  his  own  disadvantage  several  times.     The}' 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  209 

had  all  seen  a  boy  at  the  school  -come  out  complete 
from  top  to  toe  with  a  bit  of  collar  over  his  coat  of 
about  three  inches.  Such  a  boy  was  Mr.  Carnegpe 
— (cheers) — and  what  he  was  then  he  is  now  in  all 
respects.  He  then  gave  evidence  of  a  high  ambi- 
tion, and  he  had  no  doubt  that  the  success  he  had 
attained  was  very  much  due  to  his  having  an  ambi- 
tious and  excellent  mother.     (Cheers.) 

Ex-Provost  Mathieson  next  gave  "  The  Health  of 
Mr.  Carnegie."  "You  have  intrusted  me  with  a 
toast,"  he  said,  "which  properly,  from  its  import- 
ance, should  have  come  from  the  chair,  and  under  or- 
dinary circumstances  1  would  have  felt  it  to  be  an  ar- 
duous task  to  propose  the  toast  of  the  evening.  Un- 
der the  circumstances,  however,  in  Avhich  we  are 
met  to-day,  I  don't  see  that  any  speaking  on  my 
part  is  required,  as  from  the  events  which  have  taken 
place  this  day  there  is  enough  to  show  Mr.  Carnegie 
the  respect  in  which  he  is  held  by  his  native  city — 
(loud  cheers) — and  any  remarks  I  might  make  in  pro- 
posing his  health  would  only  have  the  effect  of  weak- 
ening any  feelings  that  may  have  arisen  in  his  bosom 
from  what  has  occurred  to-day  already.  (Cheers.) 
I  think  you  will  all  agree  with  me  when  I  say,  that, 
so  far  as  Dunfermline  is  concerned,  the  turn-out  to- 
day has  been  one  which  has  not  been  witnessed  be- 
fore, even  by  the  very  oldest  inhabitant.  (Cheers.) 
I  think  that  Mr.  Carnegie  was  riglit  when  he  said  to- 
day that  it  was  more  like  an  ovation  given  to  an  em- 
peror on  his  return  from  his  conquests  than  the  re- 
cei)tion  of  a  private  citizen  visiting  his  native  town. 
(Cheers.)  Now,  1  think  that,  so  far  as  Mr.  Carnegie 
is  concerned,  he  richly  deserves  the  ovation  he  has 


2IO  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

received.  In  all  my  historical  readings—  in  Scotland 
at  least,  and  even  abroad — F  don't  think  that  there  is 
aiw  crowned  monarch  returning  to  his  country,  even 
after  declaring  peace,  that  could  have  turned  out  a 
procession  such  as  we  had  to-day.  (Cheers.)  I  en- 
deavored to  time  the  procession  as  it  passed,  and  as 
nearly  as  I  could  make  out,  it  was  more  than  a  mile 
in  length,  and  three-quarters  of  that  mile  was  com- 
posed of  ladies.  (Laughter  and  cheers.)  From 
Alexander  the  Great  and  Napoleon  Bonaparte,  there 
has  been  no  monarch  or  emperor  at  a  procession 
such  as  that  we  have  seen  to-day.  (Cheers.)  I  at- 
tribute it  to  the  fact  that  Mr.  Carnegie  is  a  bachelor. 
(Loud  laughter.)  On  a  former  occasion,  at  a  meet- 
ing at  which  Mr.  Carnegie  was  present,  and  when  I 
occupied  the  chair  which  the  Provost  now  holds,  I 
made  the  remark  that  the  only  flaw  in  Mr.  Carne- 
gie's character  was  that  he  wanted  a  wife.  (Laugh- 
ter and  cheers.)  I  attribute  that  very  much  to  the 
fact  of  his  having  a  mother.  (Laughter.)  His 
mother  has  taken  good  care  over  him,  and  has 
showed  that  she  does  not  want  to  hand  him  over  to 
the  tender  mercies  of  some  half-cousin,  or  any  of  the 
half-dozen  young  ladies  who  are  with  him  to-day. 
(Laughter.)  I  assure  you  that  I  was  a  little  observ- 
ant of  Mr.  Carnegie  when  the  large  procession  of 
ladies  was  passing,  and  I  noticed  that  when  any  one 
a  little  better  looking  than  the  others  passed,  he  was 
quite  fascinated — (laughter  and  cheers)— and  if  some 
of  the  American  ladies  fail  to  fascinate  him,  perhaps 
some  of  the  Scotch .  Avill.  In  the  events  of  to-day 
there  were  some  incidents  of  a  touching  character, 
but  there  was  one   which  indicated   to  me  the  true 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  21 1 

nobility  of  Mr.  Carneijie's  mind,  and  that  was — not 
the  presenting  of  the  Baths  nor  the  Library  to  the 
town — but  that,  when  passing  along,  he  called  a  halt 
opposite  the  very  humble  dwelling  in  Moodie  Street 
in  which  he  first  saw  the  light.  (Loud  cheers.)  That 
showed  to  me,  that  although  the  dwelling  was  low, 
his  character  was  high.  (Renewed  cheers.)  Now, 
I  won't  detain  you  any  longer,  except  to  say  that  I 
hope  that  the  inhabitants  of  Dunfermline  who  heard 
Mr.  Carnegie's  address  in  the  public  park  to-day 
will  take  the  advice  he  then  gave,  and  make  a  good 
use  of  the  means  he  has  given  them  to  improve  their 
minds.  The  motto  he  has  put  over  the  doorway — 
'  Let  there  be  light  ' — means  that  every  one  who 
enters  the  Library  is  to  obtain  light  in  the  way  of 
learning  ;  and  I  hope  the  working  classes  of  Dun- 
fermline will  take  full  advantage  of  it.  (Cheers.)  I 
have  now  to  ask  you  to  drink  to  Mr.  Carnegie's 
health.  His  character  has  been  well  expressed  in  the 
motto  on  the  flag  above  the  platform — '  The  Noble- 
hearted  Andrew  Carnegie  ' — and  I  hope  you  will 
now  give  this  toast  a  hearty  reception." 

The  toast  was  responded  to  with  much  enthusi- 
asm, the  ladies  in  the  gallery  rising  to  their  feet  and 
waving  their  handkerchiefs,  while  the  whole  corn- 
pan)'  sang  lustily,  "  He's  a  jolly  good  fellow." 

Mr.  Carnegie  said,  in  reply  :  "  Will  you  kindly 
permit  me  Hrst  to  offer  some  kind  of  explanation  to 
my  good  American  friends  as  to  what  this  ovation 
means.  This  procession — those  thousands  of  come- 
ly, saucy  maidens — (laughter  and  cheers) — the  trades 
and  all  classes  of  Dunfermline  wing  with  each 
other  ;  and    the  very  complimentary  speech  which 


212  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

my  friend  has  felt  himself  justified  in  making-,  and, 
above  all,  the  vociferous  cheers  with  which  my 
mother  and  I  have  this  day  been  greeted — (cheers) — 
for  it  is  not  to  be  supposed  that  these  strangers  know 
that  every  one  who  has  the  good  fortune  to  claim 
this  spot  on  earth  as  his  birthplace  is  received  when 
he  returns  from  exile  with  such  warmth  and  affec- 
tion, as  needs  very  little  excuse  to  burst  forth  in 
such  a  demonstration  as  that  which  we  have  this  day 
witnessed — (loud  cheers) — this  reception,  I  say,  is  in 
no  sense  personal,  for  neither  my  mother  nor  myself 
would  be  able  to  appear  here  to-day  if  we  were 
not  enabled  to  see  clearly  that  for  the  moment  we 
but  S3'mbolize  the  intense  love  and  devotion  which 
every  true  son  and  every  true  daughter  of  Dunferm- 
line bears  to  this  lovely  spot  of  earth — the  ancient 
metropolis  of  Scotland — which  we  all  love  so  well. 
(Prolonged  cheers.)  Sij»,  my  first  duty  is  now,  on 
behalf  of  my  good  mother,  to  tender  to  the  mem- 
bers of  the  Free  Library  Committee  her  heartfelt, 
deep,  and  earnest  thanks  for  the  large  share  as- 
signed to  her  in  this  day's  proceedings.  (Cheers.) 
The  future  historian  of  Dunfermline,  writing  her 
annals,  perhaps  a  thousand  years  hence — the  Dr. 
Henderson  of  that  jDcriod — must,  and  will,  record 
that  on  this  day,  amid  the  brightest  of  sunshine 
and  the  plaudits  of  assembled  thousands,  m}'  mother 
was  privileged  to  rank  her  name  with  the  annals 
of  her  native  town  in,  perhaps,  the  most  endur- 
ing of  all  forms  which  it  is  possible  to  devise.  Be- 
liev^e  me  when  I  sa}^  that  in  her  estimation  and  in 
that  of  her  sons — the  one  absent  as  well  as  the  one 
who    now  addresses    you — no  honor  which  Queen 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  213 

Victoria  has  it  in  her  power  to  bestow  could  rank 
with  this.  (Loud  cheers.)  And,  gentlemen— I  beg 
pardon,  ladies,  for  it  is  most  agreeable  to  me  as  a 
bachelor  to  find  ladies  present  to  honor  us  at  this 
banquet — believe  me,  that  deep  as  is  our  attachment, 
unbounded  our  admiration,  for  the  great  and  glori- 
ous Republic  of  the  West— (cheers)  — that  laiid  which 
said  to -my  parents,  with  outstretched  arms,  '  Come, 
be  with  us,  be  of  us,  and  share  on  equal  terms  with 
the  most  favored  of  our  own  children  the  magnifi- 
cent heritage  with  which  we  are  blessed  ' — (renewed 
cheers) — that  country  which  has  taken  and  so  grand- 
ly nursed  us  in  her  generous  bosom — (cheers) — say- 
ing to  us,  '  Here  there  is  no  kingcraft,  no  priest- 
craft, no  law  of  primogeniture  and  entail,  no 
proud  hereditary  rank  above  implying  your  infe- 
riority below  ' — I  say,  deep  and  unbounded  as 
our  love  fr)r  that  land  is,  still,  my  friends,  Scot- 
land is  our  own,  our  native  land  (cheers)  ;  and 
still  is  Dunfermline  our  home  and  all  which  that 
sacred  word  implies.  (Renewed  cheers.)  I  said  to- 
dav  that  in  America  we  care  not  whence  a  man 
springs  ;  our  Lincoln  was  a  rail-splitter,  and  our  Gar- 
field a  boy  on  the  canal.  But  permit  me  now  to  tell 
you  that  it  is  a  sweet  and  gracious  thing  to  come  to 
one's  home,  where  we  know  our  fathers  and  grand- 
fathers lived.  And,  to-day,  when  driving  up  to  the 
town,  one  of  the  most  charming  of  young  ladies 
stopped  us,  and  kindly  handed  me  a  bouquet.  On  the 
little  card  was  written,  '  From  the  College  of  Paties- 
muir. '  (Laughter  and  cheers.)  Many  of  you  are  old 
enough  to  remember  the  College  of  Patiesmuir,  and 
you  have  all  heard  of  it.     (Laughter.)    Well,  sir,  if  I 


2  14  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

am  proud  of  anything  I  am  proud  of  my  lineage,  and 
my  grandfather  was  professor  at  the  College  of  Paties- 
muir.  (Great  laughter.)  But  I  have  something  else 
to  be  proud  of  on  the  other  side,  because  you  knew 
my  grandfather,  Thomas  Morrison,  and  you  knew 
my  uncle,  Thomas  Morrison — (cheers) — and  you 
remember  the  Bailie.  (Renewed  cheers.)  My 
friends,  I  have  been  very  much  afraid  that  Scotland 
had  slipped  back  in  the  matter  of  education  ;  but  I 
am  delighted  to  tell  you  that  in  my  progress  through 
Scotland,  nothing  has  given  me  greater  satisfaction 
than  to  see  the  new  and  beautiful  schools,  with  the 
masters'  houses  adjoining— showing  to  the  world 
that  Scotland  is  not  disposed  to  yield  even  to 
America  supremacy  in  the  important  duty  of  pro- 
viding education  for  her  children,  and  that  she 
intends  that  the  weapons  which  have  hitherto 
been  wielded  so  successfull}^  as  to  create  the  unu- 
sual stir  which  three  and  a  half  millions  of  her 
sons  have  made  throughout  the  world  shall  be  so 
wielded  in  the  future,  and  that  her  sons  shall  go 
forth  as  well  equipped  for  the  battle  of  life  as  any — 
thus  making  sure  that  Scotland  will  continue  to  con- 
tribute her  full  share  to  the  progress  of  the  world. 
(Loud  cheers.)  Nothing  has  given  me  greater  pleas- 
ure than  the  meeting  in  Dunfermline,  at  which  all 
ranks  and  classes,  vying  with  each  other — the  pulpit, 
the  press,  the  learned  professions,  and  that  of  medi- 
cine and  the  general  people — accepted  the  Free  Libra- 
ries Act  in  the  most  harmonious  and  enthusiastic 
manner.  Now,  this  is  what  I  hope  will  exist  in  Dun- 
fermline,, that  whatever  differences  you  may  have  on 
political  subjects — and  all  your  discussions  in  Dun- 


BRIGHTON   TO  INVERNESS.  215 

fermline  are  of  the  very  liveliest  kind — (laughter)  —I 
ho]3e  that  when  )^ou  enter  the  threshold  of  this  Free 
Library,  you  will  all  shake  hands  and  agree  to  be 
brothers.  I  hope  you  will  cherish  and  encourage  it, 
and  hold  it  as  dear  to  you  as  the  name  and  fame  of 
Dunfermline,  which  we  all  so  much  love  and  admire. 
(Cheers.)  For  m3'self,  permit  me  to  say  that  I  have 
never,  during  all  my  life,  given  funds  for  any  insti- 
tution of  a  public  nature  with  feelings  of  such  unal- 
loyed satisfaction  as  those  which  prompted  me  to 
give  them  for  this  Free  Library.  (Loud  cheers.) 
There  is  in  most  enterprises  of  a  charitable  nature 
a  suspicion  that  the  good  to  be  produced  from  them 
may  not  be  real,  but  with  regard  to  this  Free  Library, 
I  know^  it  can  work  no  evil,  and  I  do  know  it  must 
work  lasting  good.  (Cheers.)  In  the  changes  which 
must  come,  agencies  to  which  at  present  we  attach 
great  importance  may  be  discarded,  and  new  agen- 
cies, of  which  to-day  we  know  nothing,  may  arise, 
which  will  produce  great  results  ;  but  of  this  I  am 
convinced  that  whatever  may  rise  or  whatever 
may  fall,  the  Free  Library  will  stand  a  never-failing 
fountain  of  good  to  all  the  inhabitants  of  Dunferm- 
line. (Prolonged  cheers.)  Therefore  I  feel  that  it 
is  among  the  blessings  for  which  I  have  to  thank  a 
kind  Providence,  that  the  proud  privilege  has  been 
reserved  to  me  to  found  a  Free  Library  in  my  native 
town."  (Loud  and  prolonged  cheers,  during  which 
Mr.  Carnegie  resumed  his  seat.) 

Mr.  W.  Iiiglis  said  :  "  It  falls  to  my  lot  to  propose 
a  most  interesting  and  important  toast.  Indeed,  I 
feel  convinced,  notwithstanding  all  that  has  been 
said,  and  so  well  said,  by  ex-Provost  Mathieson,  and 


2i6  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

by  the  gallant  Colonel  previous,  that  my  toast  is  in 
reality  the  toast  of  the  evening.  (Cheers.)  I  feel  sure 
that  for  once  in  my  life  everybody  will  agree  with 
me  in  this.  I  have  now  to  propose  '  The  Health  of 
Mrs.  Carnegie,'  mother  of  our  distinguished  guest. 
(Cheers.)  1  am  sure  we  are  all  delighted  to  see  her 
present  on  this  occasion  ;  and,  indeed,  my  opinion 
is  that  this  meeting  would  not  have  been  half  so  in- 
teresting  or  half  so  imposing  as  it  is  had  she  not 
been  present.  (Cheers.)  If  she  is  not  the  proudest 
woman  and  the  happiest  mother  this  day  in  the  whole 
world,  I  certainly  think  she  ought  to  be  (cheers)  ;  for 
to  few  mothers  falls  the  pleasant  duty  which  we  have 
seen  so  gracefully  performed  by  Mrs.  Carnegie  a  lit- 
tle while  ago.  Not  many  mothers  have  such  a  son 
to  be  proud  of  (cheers),  and  I  may  also  say  that  not 
many  sons  hav€  such  a  mother.  (Renewed  cheers.) 
Personally,  I  have  very  little  acquaintance  or  knowl- 
edge of  Mrs.  Carnegie,  but  without  any  one  telling 
me  anything  about  her  I  venture  to  say,  and  I  do 
so  with  all  confidence,  that  Mr.  Carnegie  owes  much 
to  his  mother.  It  is  a  fact  well  known  by  all,  that 
most  men  wdio  have  risen  to  eminence,  or  have 
attained  a  high  position  of  anv  kind,  have  been 
greatly  indebted  to  the  loving  and  constant  influ- 
ence of  their  mother.  (Cheers.)  This,  I  have  no 
doubt,  has  been  the  case  with  Mr.  Carnegie.  Allow 
me  to  sav,  that  the  influence  of  a  good  mother  is 
such  that  good  and  worthy  sons  such  as  Mr.  Carne- 
gie are  proud  of,  and  know  how  to  value.  (Cheers.) 
I  think  our  guest  did  well  when  he  suggested  to  t^e 
members  of  the  Free  Library  Committee  that  his 
mother  should  lay   the  memorial  stone  of  the  very 


BKIGHTOX  rO  INVERNESS.  217 

handsome  building  which  he  has  so  generously  gift- 
ed to  his  fellow-townsmen.  In  doing  so,  I  think  he 
honored  himself  as  well  as  honored  his  worthy  and 
respected  mother  ;  for  in  doing  so,  he  manifested  a 
trait  of  character  which  we  cannot  Ipnt  admire,  and 
which  we  would  all  do  Avell  to  imitate,  (Cheers.) 
The  Free  Library  will  alwa3's,  in  my  opinion,  be  as- 
sociated in  the  minds  of  the  Dunfermline  people  with 
the  beautiful  affection  existing  between  ]Mrs.  Carne- 
gie and  her  son.  (Cheers.)  The  Library  will  prove 
a  great  power  in  refining,  elevating,  and  educating 
the  people,  and  I  am  very  glad,  indeed,  to  think  that 
the  people  of  Dunfermline  have  endeavored  to  show 
their  gratitude  to  Mr.  Carnegie  for  his  handsome 
gifts.  (Cheers.)  I  ask  you  now  to  get  to  your  feet, 
and  drink  with  all  enthusiasm  the  health  of  Mrs. 
Carnegie." 

The  toast  was  most  enthusiastically  responded 
to. 

INIr.  Phipps,  with  whose  name  it  was  coupled, 
said:  "  Mr.  Chairman,  Ladies,  and  Gentlemen,  it  gives 
me  great  pleasure  to  reply  to  this  toast.  I  onl}^  re- 
gret my  inability  to  do  so  in  the  manner  I  should 
like  to  do.  The  subject  is  here,  the  occasion  is 
here,  and  the  orator  only  is  lacking.  Since  my  early 
childhood  to  the  present  time  it  has  been  my  good 
fortune  to  be  vminterruptedly  on  the  most  friendly 
terms  with  the  good  lady  whom  we  to-day  delight 
to  honor.  Her  home  to  me  has  been  a  second 
home,  and  she  has  been  to  me  like  a  mother,  and  her 
sons  like  brothers  ;  and,  therefore,  you  will  appreci- 
ate the  fact  when  I  state  it,  that  I  feel  all  the  diffi- 
dence   and    backwardness   that   one    would   feel   in 


2  1 8  OUR    CO  A  CHING  TRIP. 

speaking  of  a  near  and  dear  relative.  It  is  like 
praising  one's  own.  (Applause.)  When  a  young 
child,  Mrs.  Carnegie  taught  me  how  to  tell  the  time 
of  day  ;  in  later  years,  endeavored  to  teach  me  the 
value  of  time.  Like  household  words  I  have  listened 
to  Mrs.  Carnegie  telling,  in  a  manner  pleasant  and 
suited  to  a  childish  ear,  the  first  stories  I  ever  heard 
of  Scottish  history — the  noble,  valorous  deeds  of 
'  Scots  wha  hae  wi'  Wallace  bled,'  the  tales  of 
Bruce,  and  others.  How  deeply  they  sank  into  the 
young  minds  of  those  who  listened  !  Whenever  I 
think  of  patriotism^of  love  of  country — Mrs.  Car- 
negie is  to  me  the  representative.  With  what  pleas- 
ure the  neighbors'  children  would  listen  with  bright 
eyes  to  Mrs.  Carnegie  reciting  from  memory  por- 
tions of  the  '  Lady  of  the  Lake,'  '  Marmion,'  and 
other  poems.  I  can  assure  you  Robbie  Burns  was 
not  forgotten.  '  A  man's  a  man  for  a'  that,'  '  John 
Anderson  my  Jo,  John,'  and  many  other  pieces, 
were  familiar  to  the  children  of  the  neighborhood 
long  before  they  could  read  them.  Mrs.  Carnegie's 
was  the  home  where  many  friends  delighted  to  visit 
— her  heart  was  kind  to  young  and  old,  and  her  mind 
entertaining  to  all.  With  what  pleasure  she  spoke 
of  her  native  land  !  Scotland  always  seemed  to  be 
in  her  mind,  and  she  never  forgot  Dunfermline.  Is 
it  to  be  wondered  at  that,  when  with  her  eldest  son 
I  first  landed  in  this  interesting  ancient  city,  I  felt 
as  though  I  was  treading  my  own  native  soil  ?  If  it 
was  not  my  land,  it  was  my  friend's  land — it  was  my 
partner's  land — and  I  felt  and  claimed  an  interest  in 
it.  We  will  not  allow  Scotland  alone  to  claim  Sir 
Walter  Scott  and  Robert  Burns  any  more  than  we 


BRIGFITON    TO   INVERNESS.  219 

will  allow  England  to  claim  Shakespeare— these  gods 
among  men  are  ours  ;  they  are  the  world's.  Noble 
sentiments,  once  uttered,  are  no  longer  the  property 
of  one  people  or  one  nation— they  are  tha  property 
of  the  world.  We  glory  in  them  and  claim  them  ; 
they  are  ours — ours  to  cherish  and  love.  The  early 
stories  the  kind  neighbor  and  friend  had  told  me 
came  rushing  back  to  memory,  and  I  thanked  her  in 
my  heart.  I  speak  of  self,  but  to  the  circle  of  friends 
she  was  always  alike  kind  and  good,  and  to  all  the 
neighborhood  she  was  widely  known  for  kindness, 
for  her  good  judgment,  for  her  liberality  in  lending 
or  giving  from  her  little  store.  If  assistance  of  any 
kind  was  needed,  it  was  Mrs.  Carnegie  who  was 
sought  for.  (Applause.)  No  lady  whom  I  have 
known  has  so  wide  a  circle  of  friends — rich  and  poor, 
high  and  low — and  to  all  she  is  alike  kind,  and  by  all 
classes  beloved  and  respected.  (Applause.)  Mrs. 
Carnegie  has  lived  for  her  sons.  What  but  her  affec- 
tion for  her  family  could  have  induced  her  to  tear 
herself  away  from  other  near  kindred  and  her  other 
dear  friends,  her  native  land,  the  scenes  of  her  child- 
hood ?  Why,  she  must  have  suffered  greatly  in  sun- 
dering those  dear  tics  ;  but,  however  painfid,  self 
was  not  considered, '  the  New  World  promised  a 
wider  field  for  her  sons.  Those  who  have  only  trav- 
elled on  the  best  steamers  of  the  present  day  can 
but  little  imagine  the  difficulties,  the  pains,  the  dan- 
gers, that  beset  an  Atlantic  journey  in  those  early 
days,  and,  as  they  must  have  been,  the  long,  weary 
weeks  of  passage,  instead  of,  as  now,  onl}-  days  ; 
poor  sailor  as  I  am,  I  would  ahnost  as  soon  have 
gone  down  as  across.     (Laughter.)     But  this  sacri-. 


2  20  OUR    COACHING   TRIP. 

fice  was  nothing  to  Mrs.  Carnegie — she  was  not  to  be 
deterred  by  what  to  many  would  seem  like  insur- 
mountable obstacles.  Mrs.  Carnegie  has  lived  for  her 
sons^ — -her  self-denial,  her  teachings,  are  worthy  of  all 
praise.  (Applause.)  Many  a  touching  tale  could  be 
told  of  her  self-sacrificing  labors,  how  she  toiled 
early  and  late,  and  how  in  many  ways  she  denied 
herself,  that  her  boys  might  benefit,  and  nobly  have 
her  sons  repaid  her.  The  one  here  to-day  has  lived 
for  his  mother,  and  his  mother  has  lived  for  him. 
Like  the  Roman  matron,  Mrs.  Carnegie  ma}^  well 
point  to  her  sons  and  say,  '  These  are  my  jewels  ;  ' 
may  every  mother  in  the  land  say  the  same.  (Ap- 
plause.) The  donations-  which  Mr.  Carnegie  has 
made,  small  and  large,  in  the  past  and  in  the  present, 
are  but  the  natural  growth  and  outcome  of  the  benev- 
olence and  liberality  of  his  loved  mother.  Aye,  to 
her  teachings  is  he  not  only  indebted  for  this  open- 
handedness,  but  he  is  fully  as  much  indebted  to  her 
for  his  ability  to  be  liberal.  'Tis  from  his  noble 
mother  he  mherits  the  talent  to  acquire  means,  as 
well  as  the  disposition  to  do  good  with  it.  All  who 
know  the  mother  and  sons,  know  how  much  in  men- 

t 

tal  qualities  they  resemble  each  other.  (Applause.) 
On  the  steamer  a  little  incident  occurred;  a  mock  trial 
was  held,  the  defendant  was  thought  to  be  in  for  it, 
but  he  wisely  called  Mrs.  Carnegi-e  for  his  counsel, 
and,  despite  the  opposition  of  her  son,  who  used  his 
best  argument  to  procure  conviction,  against  the  de- 
fender was  arrayed  the  whole  table.  The  claimant 
and  his  case  were  very  popular,  but,  notwithstanding, 
the  good  old  lady  not  only  cleared  the  defendant, 
but  cleared  him  triumphantly,  and  the  universal  ver- 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  221 

diet  of  that  company  was  that  the  son  owed  to  his 
mother  his  talent  in  argument,  and  many  a  good 
story  could  be  told  how  profitable  this  talent  has 
been  made  b}^  the  son.  There  is  but  one  lad}^  I 
know  in  the  world  to  whom  I  would  more  readily 
go  for  advice,  and  none  to  whom  I  could  with  greater 
advantage  apply.  This  is  the  way  all  her  friends 
feel.  The  ability  which  has  enabled  the  sons  to  give 
employment  to  thousands- -the  enterprises  which 
have  benefited  Pittsburgh  and  Western  Pennsylvania, 
which  have  made  comfortable  the  homes  of  so 
many,  and  which  have  quenched  not  a  few,  which 
have  scattered  plenty  and  happiness  around — this 
ability  has  come  from  the  lady  who  is  the  subject  of 
our  toast,  and  from  the  sainted  father,  as  well  as  the 
mother,  comes  equally  the  poetic  taste,  the  love  of 
fairness,  friendship,  liberality,  and  the  love  of  justice 
and  of  right,  and  which  has  made  the  son's  word  as 
good  as  a  bond.  I  cannot  help  saying,  '  God  bless 
all  good  fathers  and  mothers.'  What  a  noble  object 
they  have  in  life  to  live  for,  and  how  well  they  may 
be  repaid  !  (Applause.)  America  is  a  fine  climate  ; 
here  is  a  lady  who  has  undergone  the  fatigue  of 
coaching  from  Brighton  to  Dunfermline.  Vou  can 
all  appreciate  how  laborious  it  must  have  been,  but 
no  complaint,  no  breaking  down  ;  fresh  and  as  lively 
as  the  youngest,  she  has  continued  the  journey,  and 
will  no  doubt  continue  to  the  end.  Can  any  lady 
surpass  it  in  all  Dunfermline?  At  Mrs.  Carnegie's 
advanced  age,  it  would  seem  evident  that  transplant- 
ing is  a  good  thing,  and  that  a  residence  of  more 
than  a  third  of  a  century  in  that  hot  and  cold  coun- 
tz-y,  the  United  States,  does  not  diminish  strength, 
15 


2  22  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

Try  it  ;  come  to  America  ;  we  want  the  canny, 
thrifty  Scotch,  an'  we  canna  get  too  muckle  o'  them. 
(Laughter.)  Uncle  Sam  is  rich  enough  to  give  us 
all  a  farm,  I  cannot  svifficiently  express,  for  our 
honored  friend,  the  pleasure,  the  great  gratification, 
-and  the  joy  which  this  day  properly  affords  her.  No 
object  which  could,  perhaps,  be  set  did  so  well  meet 
Mrs.  Carnegie's  views  as  a  Free  Library.  It  will 
afford  to  all  one  of  the  purest  and  best  of  pleasures  ; 
few  can  compare  with  it,  and  for  instruction  none 
can  surpass.  If  I  had  consulted  Mrs.  Carnegie  on 
the  subject,  I  feel  sure  she  would  have  directed  me 
to  say  to  the  young  particularly,  '  Make  a  good  use 
of  the  books,  read  them  carefully,  lay  to  heart  and 
benefit  by  their  good  teachings.'  Let  the  books  of 
her  acquaintance,  and  her  son's  friend,  Mr.  Samuel 
Smiles,  have  a  good  place  on  the  shelves,  and  in  the 
popularity  of  the  readers  such  books  as  Smiles' 
'  Industrial  Biographies,'  '  Self- Help,'  '  Thrift,'  and 
others,  cannot  fail  to  benefit,  to  improve,  to  make 
stronger  in  the  battle  of  life,  every  thoughtful  reader. 
In  closing,  I  would  say  that  if  Mrs.  Carnegie  was 
addressing  you  she  would  no  doubt  express  the  hope 
that  the  library  may  be  to  her  native  city  all  the 
donor  could  ask  for.  I  thank  you  on  behalf  of  Mrs. 
Carnegie  for  your  kindness  to  her,  and  beg  to  assure 
you  that  this  day  is,  and  ever  will  be,  the  brightest  of 
bright  days  of  her  long  and  useful  life. "  (Applause.) 
The  Rev.  Mr.  Dunbar  :  "  To  me  has  been  intrust- 
ed the  very  honorable  duty  of  commending  to  your 
best  feelings  and  hopes  '  The  Carnegie  Free  Li- 
brary.' (Cheers.)  I  am  very  glad  to  believe  that 
that  is  a  matter  which    will  so   easily   come  to  the 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVEFNESS.  223 

hearts  of  you  all,  for  it  is  to  me  a  very  light  duty  to 
commend  it  unto  you.  Brevity  is  commonly  said  to 
be  the  soul  of  wit,  and  1  think  that  this  evening  when 
we  have  so  many  toasts  on  the  programme,  all  of 
first-class  importance  and  interest,  the  proverb  is  ex- 
ceptionally true.  But  although  brevity  is  thus 
necessary,  I  cannot  allow  this  matter  to  pass  without 
speaking  two  words.  The  first  of  them  is  this,  that 
I  have  the  greatest  pleasure  in  cc^mmending  this 
toast  to  your  cordial  reception,  because  it  concerns 
a  library.  1  don't  think  that  my  training  in  life  has 
been  of  such  a  kind  as  to  make  me  underrate  a  valu- 
able collection  of  books,  seeing  that  I  have  all  along 
been  occupied  in  reading  books  from  almost,  you 
•  might  say,  my  birth  ;  and  no  words  Avhich  I  could 
use,  however  warm,  can  sufficientl}'  express  the  joy 
and  gratification  which  I  and  we  all  feel  to-day  in 
having  laid  the  memorial  stone  of  a  building  which 
is  to  contain  a  vast  treasure  open  to  the  appreciation 
of  the  inhabitants  of  this  town.  (Cheers.)  I  have 
no  doubt  that  in  this  librarj-  there  will  be  books 
representing  the  literature  of  man}-  countries  ;  but 
even  were  we  to  go  no  farther  than  our  own  coun- 
try, and  have  only  British  literature,  our  library 
would  be  a  great  treasure  indeed.     The  British  race 

try 

is  a  strong  and  sturdy  race,  and  our  conquests  in 
peace  and  war  are  known  to  the  whole  world  ;  but 
among  the  noblest  of  our  conquests,  I  think  we  may 
put  down  our  rare  English  literature.  (Cheers.) 
For  one  thing,  it  is  w^ritten  in  a  language  which,  if 
a  philologcr  or  philosopher  looks  at  for  the  first 
time,  is  said  to  be  the  most  difficult  and  curious  in 
the  w^hole  world  ;  but,  notwithstanding  its  peculiar- 


224  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

itj,  there  is  a  pith   and   a  power   in    our   language 
which  have  been  making  their  own  way  all  the  world 
over  ;  and  I  believe  that  the  day  shall  come  when, 
by  dint  of  perseverance,  our  language  shall  become 
the  universal  language  of  mankind.     (Cheers.)     In 
this  curious  yet  powerful  language,  we  have  a  liter- 
ature Avhich  is  surpassed  by  no  language  which  any 
man  ever  spoke  or  wrote  in  ;  and  the  presentation  of 
this  Library  to. As  means  that  there  will  be   thrown 
open  to  the  acquisition  of  all  our  people — if  they  care 
to  put  themselves  to  the  necessary  trouble  to  enter*into 
it — this  magnificent  heritage,  which  has  come  down 
to  us  by  the  genius  and  labors  of  our  illustrious  ances- 
tors.    (Cheers.)      I   am   sure  that  we  will  respond 
heartily  to  the  appeal  that  Mr.  Carnegie  has  himself 
made,  and  that  we  will  treasure  the  Library  and  use 
it  with  all  diligence.     Now,  for  my  second  word  to 
commend  this  toast  to  you.      I    cannot   help    comi, 
mending  this  toast  with  all  heartiness,  on  account  of 
Mr.  Carnegie.    (Cheers.)    I  have  no  wish  to  trespass 
on  other  people's  property  in  his  remarks,  but  I  can- 
not forget  that  this  is  not  a  Library  merely,  but  the 
'  Carnegie  Free  Library,'  which  has  been  given  to 
us  by  the  large-hearted  generosity  of  one  of  our  own 
citizens.     (Cheers.)     I  think  we  all  feel  that  not  only 
in  the  matter  of  this  gift  of  the  Library  we  have  cause 
to  love  and  admire  Mr.   Carnegie,  but  in  others  as 
Avell,  and  the  good  qualities  and  abilities  which  he 
possesses.     (Cheers.)      I  speak  with  some  personal 
knowledge  of  Mr.  Carnegie,  for  we  seem  to  have  the 
faculty  of  running  up  against  each  other  every  now 
and  again — at  Cairo,   for  example,  Wolverhampton, 
and  other  places  ;  and  he   one  day  remarked,  in  re- 


I 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  225 

gard  to  this,  that  surely  it  must  be  intended  by 
Providence  that  he  was  appointed  to  be  the 
means  of  doing-  me »  some  good.  (Laughter  and 
cheers.)  I  have  always  had  a  high  respect  for  Mr. 
Carnegie,  on  account  of  his  excellent  qualities  in 
head  and  heart.  We  are  all  proud  of  him,  and  we 
receive  this  Library  very  heartily,  because  it  comes 
from  him,  and  we  all  join  in  one  ardent  hope  and 
prayer  that  it  will  continue. to  be  of  great  benefit  to 
the  inhabitants  of  the  spot  which  gave  him  birth." 
(Cheers.) 

Mr.  Ross:   "  I  felt  very  highly  honored  when  I 
was  asked  to  propose  the  toast  of  '  Tjie  Strangers'  to 
this  meeting  ;  but  I  must  confess  I  felt  my  occupa- 
tion was  gone  this  afternoon  when  I  saw  the  recep- 
tion these  honored  strangers  received  from  the  citi- 
zens  of  Dunfermline  as  they  entered  the  public  park 
in  their  triumphal  car.      When  one  talks  of  strangers 
it  is  with  feelings  of  sympathy,  and  we  are  disposed 
to    remember  the  story  of  the  ancient   Gideonites, 
who  entered  another  city — not  Dunfermline — long 
ago  on  donkey  carts,  with  clothes  torn,  and  water 
very  putrid.      It  was  not  so  with  the  strangers  we 
saw  to-day,  and  I  think  you  will  agree  with  me  that 
Dunfermline  has  already  responded  to  the  toast  of 
'  The  Strangers.'  (Cheers.)  Those  ladies  and  gentle- 
men who  are  accompanying  our  friend,  Mr.  Carne- 
gie, on  his  visit  to  this  town,  can  no  longer  be  char- 
acterized as  strangers,  but    as  intimate  friends,  not 
only  of   Mr.  Carnegie,  but  of  the   whole  inhabitants 
of  Dunfermline.     (Cheers.)     I  think  these  ladies  and 
srentlemen  must  have  felt  very   much  pleased  with 
the  reception  they  received,  and  I  can  assure  them 


2  20  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

that  they  saw  to-day  what  no  visitors  ever  saw  be- 
fore— the  whole  of  the  population  of  Dunfermline 
turning  out  to  do  honor  to  them.  Colonel  Myers 
has  said  that  Dunfermline  was  a  rather  cold  place, 
and  the  Colonel  to  some  extent  is  perfectly  right. 
It  is,  however,  only  partially  true,  because  Dunferm- 
line was  a  hot  place  as  well,  as  was  evinced  to-day 
by  the  hearty  reception  Mr.  Carnegie  and  his  friends 
received.  I  don't  know  much  about  Mr.  Cai»negie's 
friends,  but  they  come  here  with  a  good  guarantee, 
with  a  preconceived  notion  in  their  favor  in  the  fact 
that  they  are  with  Mr.  Carnegie,  for  we  all  know 
that  Mr.  Carnegie  would  not  bring  any  but  the 
cream  of  America.  (Cheers.)  Perhaps  in  them  we 
are  entertaining  angels  unawares — (laughter  and 
cheers) — and  I  can  promise  the  visitors  that  they 
Avillnot  be  able  to  find  a  burgh  which  combines  such 
ancient  lineage  with  such  busy  life  now  as  Dunferm- 
line. They  would  be  shown,  likely  to-morrow,  the 
residences  and  the  tombs  of  the  most  ancient  kings 
of  the  country.  They  will  also  see  our  manufact- 
ures, which  are  keeping  pace  with  the  wants  of  the 
time,  and  supplying  our  American  brethren  with 
good  linen  ;  while  we,  in  our  turn,  derive  many 
good  things  from  America.  I  hope  that  the  stran- 
gers, have  been  enjoying  their  journey,  and  I  have  no 
doubt  but  that  they  will  be  able  to  look  back  upon 
their  visit  to  Dunfermline  as  one  of  the  brightest 
spots  of  their  pilgrimage.  (Cheers.)  If  I  may  be 
allowed,  I  would  hke  to  alter  the  toast  from  '  The 
Strangers'  to  'Our  Cousins,'  coupled  with  the 
name  of  Mr.  McCargo."    (Cheers.) 

Mr.  McCargo  said  :  "  1  am  verj^  ghid  to  know  that 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  227 

you  don't  consider  us  strangers.  I  have  heard  of 
Dunfermline,  it  seems  to  me,  from  the  first  time  I 
heard  of  anything.  Mr.  Carnegie  lias  been  my  most 
intimate  friend  all  my  hfe  ;  and  there  is  nothing  that 
excels  Dunfermline  in  his  estimation,  and  I  may  say 
also  in  mine  too.  (Laughter  and  cheers.)  I  have 
also  imbibed  the  deepest  affection  for  Dunfermline 
from  his  dear  mother  ;  and  to-day,  when  I  was  rid- 
ing through  your  streets,  it  recalled  to  my  memory 
all  the  conversations  that  I  have  had  with  Mr.  Car- 
negie in  my  early  youth  about  Dunfermline.  He 
was  so  wrapt  up  in  Dunfermline,  that  on  all  possible 
occasions  he  dwelt  on  the  people  of  Dunfermlme  and" 
the  beauty  of  the  country,  that  I  thought  you  cer- 
tainly must  be  a  kindly  people  to  inspire  such  a  very 
deep  affection  in  Mr.  Carnegie  and  his  dear  mother. 
Now,  I  must  confess  1  am  very  much  in  love  with 
vou  as  well.  (Laughter  and  cheers.)  I  don't  feel 
that  I  am  a  stranger,  and  I  am  of  Scotch  extraction. 
(Cheers.)  It  has  been  a  delightfid  visit  for  us  to 
come  to  this  country  and  see  the  land  that  we  have 
heard  of  so  often  and  read  so  much  about.  (Cheers.) 
You  can  imagine  our  feelings  when  the  heather,  the 
bluebell,  the  broom,  and  the  whin  bushes  were 
shown  to  us.  These  arc  things  wc  have  heard  of 
since  our  childhood,  and  we  have  all  been  delighted 
to  see  them  now.  We  have  had  a  delightfid  visit 
here.  It  has  been  a  constant  ovation,  but  there  is 
nothing  that  equals  our  reception  to-day.  I  feel 
very  proud  of  Mr.  Carnegie  because  I  love  him,  and  I 
think  you  simply  express  his  character  exactly  when 
you  speak  of  him  as  the  noble-hearted  Andrew  Car- 
negie.    He  is  full  (^f  love  for  his  fellow-men.    He  has 


228         '  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

imbibed    those    ideas    from    your    authors — Burns, 
Scott,  the  Ettrick  Shepherd,  and  many  others.     The 
company  with  whom  I  am  are  fully  delighted  with 
the  reception  we  have  received  here.     We  have  had 
a  delightful  time  of  it,  and  shall  remember  this  day 
all  our  lives.     You  have  been  very  kind."    (Cheers.) 
Mr.    Carnegie  next  proposed    "  The   Town   and 
Trade  of  Dunfermline,"  and  in  doing  so  said  :  If  the 
large  number  of  people  they  had  seen  that  day  de- 
pended upon  the  town  and  trade  of  Dunfermline,  he 
was  sure  they  could  not  approach  this  toast  without 
some    serious  thought.      Now,    he    was   pleased   to 
'learn   that    notwithstanding    the    depression   which 
had    prevailed   in  all  countries  with   which  he  was 
familiar,    the    trade    of    Dunfermline    had    suffered 
less    than  any  other  of    which  he    had    knowledge. 
(Cheers.)     He  did  not  except  from  the  statement  so 
rich  a  land  as  that  of  the  American  Republic,  for  the 
depression  there  for  years  had  much  surpassed  any- 
thing of  which,   he  was   happy  to  say,  the  town  of 
Dunfermline  had  any  knowledge  for  perhaps  ten  or 
fifteen  years.     He  asked  the  gentlemen  who   were 
responsible  for  the  trade  of  the  town  to  take  a  little 
bit  of  advice  from  him.     (Cheers.)     They  all  knew 
that  he  had   the   prosperity  of  Dunfermline  deep  at 
heart,  and  he  was  going  to  call  one  of  the  chief  sin- 
ners to   reply  to  the  toast.     There  had   been   quite  - 
enough  of  extension  in  recent  years  of  the  trade  of 
Dunfermline,  and  if  they  would  have  a  steady  *and 
profitable  trade  they  must  take  care  and  ca'  canny. 
(Laughter.)     He  did  not  say  that  because  he  was  at 
all  apprehensive  that  the  American  demand  would 
cease  for  their  products.     America,  like  every  other 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  229 

great  country  in  the  world,  made  efforts  to  supply  its 
own  wants  in  iron,  steel,  and  woollen  goods,  and  in 
manufactures  generally.  She  would  never  relax  her 
efforts  until  she  was  master  of  the  situation,  and 
supplied  all  her  great  people's  needs.  He  was  de- 
lighted to  say  that  he  excepted  from  that  statement 
the  damask  trade  of  Dunfermline — for  there  had 
been  no  effort  in  America  as  yet  to  interfere  with 
their  trade  here — and  when  they  went  home  to 
America  he  could  safely  promise  that  he  and  his 
friends  would  do  their  utmost  to  preserve  to  the 
bonny  lassies  they  had  seen  that  day  the  American 
market  for  Dunfermline  damask.     (Loud  cheers.) 

Councillor  Donald,  with  whose  name  the  toast, 
was  coupled,  made  a  long  reply.  He  was  glad  of 
the  opportunity  of  replying,  for  he  felt  a  very  deep 
interest  in  the  town  and  trade  of  Dunfermline,  and  it 
would  be  very  strange  indeed  if  he  felt  otherwise. 
It  Ayas  certainly  very  becoming  of  Mr.  Carnegie  to 
propose  the  toast,  because,  to  a  large  extent,  the 
trade,  and  consequently  the  town,  depended  upon 
the  United  States  of  America.  He  supposed  that 
nearly  two-thirds  of  the  goods  were  sent  out  there. 
Mr.  Carnegie  had  mentioned  that  in  order  to  have  a 
steady  and  profitable  trade,  we  should  ca'  canny, 
but  in  his  opinion  this  was  not  a  time  to  ca'  canny, 
but  to  be  up  and  doing — (cheers) — more  especially 
as  Mr.  Carnegie  had  told  them  that  the  people  on 
the  other  side  of  the  water  were  likely  to  do  a  great 
deal  more  by-and-bye  in  sup})l3'ing  themselves.  He 
was  glad  to  be  able  to  say  that  as  yet  the  Americans 
had  done  very  little  in  the  way  of  linen  manufacturing. 
They  had  prospered  in  every  other  line,  but  in  that 


230  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

they  have  not  made  much  progress.  He  was  not 
afraid  of  the  citizens  of  America,  so  far  as  their  own 
trade  was  concerned.  He  remembered  some  twenty- 
five  years  ago  when  he  first  landed  at  New  York, 
that  in  the  leading  stores  of  that  city,  in  Philadel- 
phia and  in  Boston,  he  saw  the  damask  linen  of 
Dunfermline  being  largely  sold,  but  he  was  sorry  to 
say  that  on  this  visit  he  did  not  find  that  their  goods 
were  so  thoroughly  taken  hold  of  as  in  these  days 
long  ago.  He  found  instead  that  the  principal 
articles  in  the  linen  department  of  the  trade  were 
not  from  Dunfermline,  but  were  from  German  and 
Irish  manufacturers.  They  had  therefore  to  com- 
pete now  with  the  German  and  Irish  manufacturers. 
This  was  not  the  case  before  the  Exhibition  of  1851, 
but  from  that  date  the  Germans,  French,  and  the 
Irish  were  endeavoring  to  outstrip  them,  and  they 
must  take  care  that  they  did  not  do  them  out  of 
the  trade  altogether.  (Cheers.)  As  to  the  town, 
he  did  not  think  that  Mr.  Carnegie  expected  to  see 
such  a  fine-looking  town,  and  especially  so  many  fine 
ladies.  (Laughter.)  Most  of  these  ladies  were 
power-loom  workers,  and  they  were  the  people  who 
must  help  them  to  compete  with  the  Germans  and 
Irish  in  supplying  the  Americans  with  good  linen. 
(Cheers.) 

Bailie  Seath  then  proposed  "  The  Health  of  the 
Architect."  Mr.  Walker,  he  said,  was  a  gentleman 
well  known  among  them  now,  and  his  works  spoke 
for  themselves.  They  had  only  to  look  at  the  Cor- 
poration Buildings  to  see  what  manner  of  structure 
he  was  qualified  to  rear,  and  he  thought  the  Carne- 
gie Free  Library  Committee  had  done  a  good  thing 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  231 

in  selecting  Mr.  Walker  to  design  the  building. 
The  building,  which  was  now  being  erected,  would 
form  an  ornament  to  the  town,  as  well  as  a  noble 
example  of  the  generosity  of  Mr.  Carnegie  ;  and 
every  one  had  now  an  opportunity  of  seeing  what 
the  building  was  likely  to  be.     (Applause.) 

Ex- Provost  Mathieson  replied  on  behalf  of  Mr. 
Walker,  who  had  to  leave  for  Edinburgh  with  the 
last  train. 

Mr.  W\  Inglis,  in  proposing  "  The  Health  of 
Provost  Walls,"  said  there  never  was  a  greater  dem- 
onstration in  Dunfermline  before,  and  they  had 
never  had  a  greater  occasion  to  hold  one  before. 
(Cheers.)  W'hen  he  saw  the  very  large  procession 
that  day,  he  felt  perfectly  proud  of  the  people  of 
Dunfermline.  (Cheers.)  He  was  always  hopeful 
that  they  would  rise  to  a  sense  of  the  munificence  of 
Mr.  Carnegie  in  a  manner  that  would  show  that  they 
really  appreciated  the  kindness  and  the  generosity 
of  their  distinguished  citizen — (cheers) — and  to  the 
labors  of  the  Provost  was  due,  in  a  large  degree, 
the  success  of  the  demonstration. 

The  Provost  suitably  acknowledged  the  toast. 

Mr.  W.  Brown,  in  a  neat  speech,  proposed  the 
health  of  the  "  Croupiers,"  which  was  acknowledged 
by  ex-Provost  Mathieson. 

Mr.  Carnegie  said  they  Vould  pardon  him  if  he 
transgressed  from  the  order  of  the  banquet,  as  he 
would  like  to  be  permitted  to  propose  "  The  Health 
of  his  friend  Bailie  Walker."  (Cheers.)  He  got  the 
Press  and  Journal  every  week,  and  he  noticed  that  in 
their  local  Parliament  there  was  a  man  who — a  i^awky 
and  canny  man — often  uttered  some  words  of    good 


232  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

common  sense — this  man  was  BailieWalker.  (Cheers.) 
He  knew  them  all  and  read  their  speeches  in  the 
Press  when,  sometimes,  perhaps,  he  ought  to  be  doing 
something  better  ;  and  he  must  say  that  there  was 
no  reading  which  furnished  him  with  so  much  pleas- 
ure and— amusement  (laughter  and  cheers),  as  the 
proceedings  of  the  Municipal  Parliament  of  the 
ancient  Metropolis  of  Scotland  (renewed  laughter  and 
cheers),  generally  known  by  the  name  of  Dunferm- 
line. He  knew  that  Bailie  Walker  would  say  some 
sensible  thing  in  reply,  and  he  asked  them  to  drink 
to  the  health  of  .Bailie  Walker,     (Cheers.) 

Bailie  Walker,  in  returning  thanks,  said  he  had 
been  very  much  delighted  that  day  till  within  the 
last  five  minutes.  (Laughter.)  If  there  was  any 
drawback  on  his  part  in  coming  to  meetings,  it  was 
in  the  way  of  making  speeches,  which  he  could  not 
do.  As  Mr.  Carnegie,  however,  spoke  about  his 
pawkiness,  he  supposed  that  the  best  way  to  show 
his  pawkiness  was  to  be  as  short  as  possible.  He 
had,  therefore,  only  to  return  his  sincere  thanks  to 
the  company  for  so  cordially  drinking  his  health. 
(Laughter  and  applause.) 

During  the  evening  a  number  of  songs  were  ren- 
dej^ed  by  several  gentlemen,  and  at  the  conclusion 
of  the  toast  list,  "  Auld  Lang  Syne"  was  sung  by 
the  company,  after  whith  the  meeting  broke  up  a 
little  after  nine  o'clock. 

CARNEGIE   BATHS. 

GRAND    SWIMMING   COMPETITION. 
On  Thursday  evening,  a  grand  swimming  com- 
petition took  place  in  the  baths,  under  the  auspices 


BRIGHTON-    TO   INVERNESS.  233 

of  the  Carnegie  Swimming  Club.  There  was  a  large 
attendance  of  spectators,  and  among  those  present 
were — ex- Provost  IMathieson,  who  presided  ;  Mr. 
Carnegie  (the  generous  donor  of  the  baths,  and  who 
on  entering  received  a  hearty  reception)  ;  Mr.  H. 
Phipps,  Jr.  (Mr.  Carnegie's  partner)  ;  Mr.  D. 
McCargo,  Mr.  G,  F.  McCandless,  Mr.  B.  Vande- 
vort,  Mr.  A.  King,  all  Mr.  Carnegie's  American 
friends  ;  Provost  Walls,  Bailies  Walker  and  Steed- 
man  ;  Councillors  Donald,  Beveridge,  Currie,  Al- 
ston, and  Clark  ;  Messrs.  Reid,  Brucefield,  J.  Drum- 
mond,  G.  Lauder,  W.  Simpson,  \V.  Reid,  Jr.,  J.  and 
G.  Mathewson,  W.  Wilson,  G.  Birrell,  A.  Martin, 
W.  Wilson,  Glasgow  ;  J.  Hay,  etc. 

The  Chairman  opened  the  proceedings  by  mak- 
ing a  few  remarks,  in  which  he  expressed  his  pleas- 
ure at  seeing  such  a  large  turn-out  to  welcome  Mr. 
Carnegie.  Everything  connected  with  the  estab- 
lishment had  been  the  creation  of  Mr.  Carnegie  (ap- 
plause), and  even  the  means  for  the  performance  of 
the  proceedings  there  that  'night  had  been  provided 
by  that  gentleman  also.  (Renewed  applause.)  The 
Committee  of  the  Swimming  Club  were  highly  de- 
lighted to  see  INIr,  Carnegie  among  them  again  in 
very  good  health  and  spirits.  (Applause.)  Every- 
thing seemed  to  be  favoring  him  in  his  journey  from 
the  south  to  the  north.  He  *did  not  think  that  Mr. 
Carnegie  could  have  got  a  better  day  than  yesterday, 
and  although  this  day  was  wet  and  disagreeable,  he 
had  no  doubt  it  was  only  preparatory  to  a  good  day 
on  the  morrow,  to  enable  Mr.  Carnegie  to  resume 
his  journey.  They  had  been  getting  their  weather 
regulated  lately  from  America,  and  he  had  no  doubt 


234  OUR   COACHING    TRIP. 

that  Mr.  Carnegie  had  been  telegraphing  to  the  clerk 
of  the  weather  there  the  names  of  the  places  he  was 
going  to  stop  at,  so  that  he  might  get  a  dry  day 
whenev^er  he  pleased.  (Laughter  and  applause.) 
He  had  now,  on  behalf  of  the  Carnegie  Swimming 
Club,  to  present  Mr.  Carnegie  with  two  documents 
— one  of  them  being  the  rules  of  the  Carnegie  Swim- 
ming Club,  and  the  other  a  life  ticket.  (Laughter 
and  applause.)  He  hoped  that  Mr.  Carnegie  would 
long  live  to  see  the  swimming  in  the  Carnegie  Pond. 
(Applause.) 

The  programme  was  then  proceeded  with. 
There  was  a  large  number  of  competitors  for  each- 
event,  and  the  competition  proved  to  be  the  best 
ever  held  under  the  auspices  of  the  Society.  There 
were  thirteen  events,  and  the  spectators  watched 
with  keen  interest  the  different  races.  The  pro- 
gramme was  carried  through  with  much  dispatch, 
and  the  arrangements  made  for  the  competition  were 
all  that  could  be  desired.  The  principal  event  of  the 
evening  was  the  lOO  yards  fast-swimming  race — the 
first  prize  for  which  was  a  handsome  medal,  pre- 
sented by  Mr.  Carnegie,  and  which  was  won  by  G. 
Wilson.     The  following  are  the  winners  : 

Boys'  four  lengths  race,  heats  (open)  —  i,  J. 
Millen  ;  2,  D.  Balingall  ;  3,  D.  MT^aren.  Four 
lengths  breast  stroke  race,  heats  (open) — i,  P.  Don- 
ald ;  2,  G.  Wallace  ;  3,  A.  Colville.  Long  distance 
diving,  adults — i,  W.  Todd;  2,  C,  E.  Stewart;  3,  W. 
Brown.  Two  lengths  flying  handicap  race,  heats 
(open)  —  I,  W.  Christie  ;  2,  P.  Donald  ;  3,  G.  Wilson 
and  J.  Ta^dor,  equal.  Object  diving,  adults — i,  W, 
Brown,    13  ;  .2,  G.  Wilson,  11  ;  3,   C.  E.  Stewart,  9. 


BRIGHTON    TO  IXVERNESS.  235 

Back    race  two   lengths  (open) — i,  J.  Taylor  ;  2,  P. 

Donald  ;  3,  W.  Brown.     Boys'  distance  diving  (open) 

—  I,  A.  Cant  ;  1,  P.  Wright  ;  3,  J.  jNIillen.    100  yards 

fast-swimming  race,  adults  (confined) — i,  G.  Wilson  ; 

2,    W.    Christie.      Boys'    hurdle    race,  two    lengths 

(open) — I,  P.  Mollison  ;  2,  A.  Stewart ;  3,  G.  Millen  ; 

4,  D.  M'Larcn.    Boys'   two  lengths  flying  handicap 

race  (open) — i,    P.  Mollison  ;   2,  T.  Balingall  ;    3,  J. 

Millen.    Clothes    race,    two    lengths   (open) — i,    P. 

Donald  ;  2,  C.  E.  Stewart ;  3,  A.  Colville.    Blindfold 

race,  six  times  across  the  bath  (open) — i,  D.  Brown; 

2,  G.  Wilson  ;  3  A,  M'Cansh.    Amusing  tub  race  — 

I,  R.  Williamson  ;   2,  D.  Brown  ;  3,  C.  E.  Stewart. 

At  the  conclusion  of  the  competition,  the  Chair- 
man asked  Mr.  Carnegie  to  say  a  few  words. 

Mr.  Carnegie  then  said  :  "  It  is  my  pleasant  duty 
to-night  to  ask  you  to  return  a  vote  of  thanks  to  Mr, 
Mathieson  for  presiding  here  this  evening.  (Ap- 
plause.) No  duty  could  be  more  pleasant  than  that, 
because  he  is  the  man  who  from  the  first  consented 
to  act  as  President  of  the  Swimming  Club.  This 
exhibition  we  have  witnessed  not  only  with  pleasure 
but  with  real  surprise.  (Applause.)  It  is  a  hard  mat- 
ter at  all  times  to  get  a  gentleman  in  ex-Provost 
Mathieson's  position  to  assume  the  responsibility  of 
the  Presidency  of  a  new  society  ;  but  I  venture  to 
say  that  you  will  have  much  less  difficulty  in  procur- 
ing a  successor  for  the  Presidency  of  the  Carnegie 
Swimming  Club — if  ever  it  is  necessary  to  obtain  a 
successor — to  ex- Provost  ]Mathieson,  which  I  am 
sure  we  all  hope  will  not  be  for  many  long  years  to 
come.  (Applause.)  Sir,  I  think  I  may  venture  to 
congratulate  you  also  upon  being  President  of  a  club 


2^6  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 


which  can  do  such  feats  as  we  have  just  seen  the 
Carnegie  Swimming  Club  perform.  (Applause.)  In 
these  days,  I  hear  a  great  deal  npon  this  side  of  the 
water  of  the  loss  of  empire  over  the  land  which 
is  impending  over  Great  Britain.  In  that  kind  of 
talk  I  take  no  share  whatever,  because  I  think  that 
the  world  is  not  done  with  Great  Britain,  and  I  am 
quite  sure  that  Great  Britain  is  not  done  with  the 
world.  (Applause.)  I  think  that  the  empire  which 
Britain  may  have  over  the  earth  in  the  future  will  be 
of  a  different  character  from  that  it  has  hitherto  pos- 
sessed ;  and  I  firmly  believe,  at  the  same  time,  that 
it  will  be  an  empire  of  a  higher  order — not  so  much 
of  a  physical,  but  more  of  a  mental  character  than 
she  has  ever  exerted  upon  the  destinies  of  mankind. 
(Applause.)  But  however  we  may  differ  about  that, 
I  think  there  is  one  element  upon  which  her  suprem- 
acy is  not  likely  to  be  questioned,  and  that  is  the 
water.  (Applause.)  I  think  that  Great  Britain  will 
continue  to  rule  the  waves  (applause)  about  as  long 
as  I  should  like  to  prophecy  any  nation  would  rule 
anything  ;  and  I  think  that  it  is  incumbent  for  that 
reason  that  the  sons  of  Great  Britain  should  learn  to 
be  at  home  in  the  waves  which  we  expect  them  to 
continue  to  rule.  However,  there  is  no  longer  any 
question  about  this,  that  Dunfermline  has  begun  to 
see  the  advantage,  and  she  will  no  doubt  soon  recog- 
nize the  duty,  of  teaching  all  her  sons  to  feel  this 
confidence  at  least,  that  they  were  not  born  to  be 
drowned.  (Laughter  and  applause.)  Let  me  tell 
you  what  happened  the  other  day.  A  boat  which 
had  been  sailing  and  had  furled  its  sails  was  upset. 
In  that  boat  there    was   an    elderly    gentleman,  his 


BRIGHTON   TO  INVERNESS.  237 

wife,  and  his  eldest  son.  They  were  icxd  yards  from 
footing,  and  they  were,  of  course,  confused  by  being 
thrown  into  the  water — there  being  a  rope  roiind  the 
neck  of  the  lady,  and  one  of  the  gentlemen  being  en- 
tangled in  the  sail.  Nevertheless  they  swam,  sup- 
porting each  other,  to  land  (applause)  and  they  live 
to-day,  because  every  one  of  them  had  in  youth 
learned  the  art,  and  I  don't  hesitate  to  say  the  duty, 
of  knowing  how  to  support  himself  in  the  water. 
(Renewed  applause.)  Who  was  that  man  .^  It  was 
your  own  city's  most  distinguished  son,  Sir  Noel 
Paton.  The  lady  was  Lady  Paton,  and  the  other 
was  his  son,  Victor.  (Applause.)  I  hope  this  lesson 
will  be  taken  to  heart  by  the  good  people  of  Dun- 
fermline. There  is  one  suggestion  I  should  make  to 
the  President.  It  is  this,  what  we  have  seen  to- 
night have  been  the  performances  of  young  men. 
Now,  I  have  resided  in  a  young  country  most  of  my 
life,  and  I  am  one  of  those  who  believe  that  a  young 
country  can  teach  some  things  to  old  countries.  I 
find  also  that  young  men  have  sometimes  some 
things  to  teach  old  men,  and  I  have  now  to  suggest 
that  I  should  be  most  happy  to  provide  the  prizes 
for,  say,  a  Bailies'  race.  (Laughter  and  applause.) 
We  miijht  also  allow  Provosts  and  ex  Provosts  to 
enter  (laughter),  giving  them  a  start  of  three  or  four 
seconds.  (Renewed  laughter.)  I  would  beg  fur- 
ther to  suggest,  subject  to  your  approval,  that  to 
every  Town  Councillor  who  would  say,  '  As  sure's 
death,  I  never  want  to  be  a  Bailie,'  we  should  give 
a  start  of  seven  or  eight  seconds  (loud  laughter),  and 
if  there  was  a  Bailie  who  would  sav,  '  As  sure's 
death,  I  never  want  to  be  Provost,'  1  should  give 
16 


238  OUR    COACHING    TRIP.. 

him  any  start  he  liked.     (Great  laughter.)     I   would 
like  to  know  whether  that  suggestion  meets  the  ap- 
proval of  the  young  men  of  the  Carnegie  Swimming 
Club.     (Loud  applause.)      Then,    I   think,    we  may 
consider  the  Bailies'  race  settled  ;  and  in  order  that 
they  all  may  have  a  fair  chance  I  give  them  warning 
now,  that  upon  my  next  return  to  Dunfermline  I  ex- 
pect to  see  a  splendid  race  of  Bailies.     (Applause.) 
I  now  thank  the  Carnegie  Swimming  Club  for  the 
copy  of  their  rules,  and  the  ticket  they  have  present- 
ed me,  and  I  assure  them  it  is  an  honor  to  have  these 
buildings  named  after  myself.     As  for  the  President, 
I  am  willing  to  divide  the  honors  with  him  on  most 
liberal  terms,  because  he  does  all  the  work  and  I  get 
the  greater  part  of  the  credit.     I  only  want  to  say, 
in  conclusion,  that  I  am  sure  that  you  have  shown 
these  gentlemen  from  America  that  if  they  can  boast 
of  their   vast   prairies    and    broad    lands,  that  some 
things  have  been  done  here  to-night  that  it  would 
puzzle  any  city  in  America  to  equal. ' '  (Loud  applause. ) 
The    Chairman    thanked    Mr,    Carnegie    for   the 
compliment  he  had   paid   him  ;  and   which,  had   he 
known  all,  was  rather  unmerited,  for  since  he  had 
acted  as  President  the  Committee  had  done  all  the 
work.     He  had  looked  on  at  the  Committee  doing 
the  work,  and  of  course  expressed  great  approval. 
(Laughter.)     He  hoped  that  from   that  night  they 
would    have    a   large    additional    number  of   names 
added  to  the  membership  of  the  Club  ;  and  from  the 
•  encouragement  they  had  got  from  Mr.  Carnegie  all 
along,  he  was  sure  this  would  be  the  case  by  another 
year.     (Applause.)     As  to  the  Bailies'  race,  he  was 
quite  ready,  if  all  the  Bailies,  the  Provost,  and  Town 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  2 39 

Councillors  went  in  for  swimming,  to  be  one  of 
them.     (Loud  applause  and  laughter.) 

The  Chairman  then  presented  Mr.  Carnegie  with 
a  book  on  swimming,  written  by  Mr.  Wilson,  Glas- 
gow, which  Mr.  Carnegie  suitably  acknowledged. 

The  proceedings  then  terminated,  and  the  prizes 
were  presented  to  the  successful  competitors  at  the 
close. 

I  will  not  be  tempted  to  say  anything  further 
about  this  unexpected  upheaval  except  this  :  after 
we  had  stopped  and  saluted  the  Stars  and  Stripes, 
displayed  upon  the  Abbey  Tower  in  graceful  com- 
pliment to  our  American  friends  (no  foreign  flag 
ever  floated  there  before,  said  our  friend,  Mr.  Rob- 
inson, keeper  of  the  ruins),  we  passed  through  the 
archway  to  the  Bartizan,  and  at  this  moment  came 
the  shock  of  all  that  day  to  me.  I  was  standing  on 
the  front  seat  of  the  coach  with  Provost  Walls  when 
I  heard  the  first  toll  of  the  abbey  bell.  My  knees 
sank  from  under  me,  the"  tears  came  rushing  before 
I  knew  it,  and  I  turned  round  to  tell  the  Provost 
that  I  must  give  in.  For  ^  moment  I  felt  as  if  I 
were  about  to  faint.  Fortunately  1  saw  that  there 
was  no  crowd  before  us  for  a  little  distance.  I  had 
time  to  regain  control,  and  biting  my  lips  till  they 
actually  bled,  I  murmured  to  myself,  "  No  matter, 
keep  cool,  you  must  go  on  ;"  but  never  can  there 
come  to  my  ears  on  earth  nor  enter  so  deep  into  m}-^ 
soul  a  sound  that  shall  haunt  and  subdue  me  with 
its  sweet,  gracious,  melting  power  like  that. 

By  that  curfew  bell   I  had  been  laid  in  my  little 
couch    to    sleep    the    sleep    of     childish    innocence. 


240  OUR   COACHING    TRIP. 

Father  and  mother,  sometimes  the  one,  sometimes 
the  other,  had  told'  me,  as  they  bent  lovingly 
over  me,  night  after  night,  what  that  bell  said  as  it 
tolled.  Many  good  words  has  that  bell  spoken  to 
me  through  their  translations.  No  wrong  thing 
did  I  do  through  the  day  which  that  voice  from 
all  I  knew  of  heaven  and  the  great  Father  there 
did  not  tell  me  kindly  about  ere  I  sank  to  sleep, 
speaking  the  very  words  so  plainly  that  I  knew  that 
the  power  that  moved  it  had  seen  all  and  was  not 
angry,  never  angry,  never,  but  so  very,  very  sorry. 
Nor  is  that  bell  dumb  to  me  to-day  when  I  hear  its 
voice.  It  still  has  its  message,  and  now  it  sounded 
to  welcome  back  the  exiled  mother  and  son  under 
its  precious  care  again. 

The  world  has  not  within  its  power  to  devise, 
much  less  to  bestow  upon  us,  such  a  reward  as  that 
which  the  abbey  bell  gave  when  it  tolled  in  our 
honor.  But  my  brother  Tom  should  have  been  there 
also  ;  this  was  the  thought  that  came.  He,  too,  was 
beginning  to  know  the  wonders  of  that  bell  ere  we 
were  away  to  the  newer  land.. 

Rousseau  wished  to  die  to  the  strains  of  sweet 
music.  Could  I  choose  my  accompaniment,  I  could 
wish  to  pass  into  the  dim  beyond  with  the  tolling  of 
the  abbey  bell  sounding  in  my  ears,  telhng  me  of  the 
race  that  had  been  run,  and  calling  me  as  it*iad 
called  the  little  white-haired  child,  for  the  last  time 
— to  sleep. 

Friday  was  a  cloudy  day,  but  our  friends,  Messrs. 
Walls,  Mathieson,  Walker,  Ross,  Drummond,  cousin 
Thomas  Morrison,  Uncle  Lauder,  and  others  who 
spent  the  early   morning    with    us   and  saw  us  ofif, 


5.t 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  241 

unanimously  predicted  that  it  would  clear.  They 
proved  true  weather  prophets,  for  it  did  turn  out  to 
be  a  bright  day.  Passing  Colonel  Myers's  residence, 
we  drove  in  and  gave  that  representative  of  the 
great  Republic  and  his  wife  three  farewell  cheers. 

Kinross  was  the  lunching-place.  Mother  was  for 
the  first  and  last  time  compelled  to  seek  the  inside 
for  a  few  hours  after  leaving  Dunfermline.  These 
farewells  from  those  near  and  dear  to  you  are  among 
the  crudest  ordeals  one  has  to  undergo  in  life.  One 
of  the  most  desirable  arrangements  held  out  to  us  in 
all  that  is  said  of  heaven  is  to  my  mind  that  there 
shall  be  no  parting  there.  Hell  might  be  invested 
with  a  new  horror  by  having  them  daily. 

We  had  time  while  at  Kinross  to  walk  along  Loch 
Leven  and  see  the  ruined  castle  upon  the  island, 
from  which  Douglas  rescued  Queen  Mary.  What  a 
question  this  of  Mar}'^  Queen  of  Scots  is  in  Scotland. 
To  intimate  a  doubt  that  she  was  not  purity  itself 
suffices  to  stir  up  a  warm  discussion.  Long  after  a 
"  point  of  divinity"  ceases  to  be  the  best  bone  to 
snarl  over,  this  Queen  Mar}-  (juestion  will  probably 
still  serve  the  purpose.  What  matters  it  what  she 
was  ?  It  is  now  a  case  of  beauty  in  distress,  and  we 
cannot  help  sympathizing  with  a  gentle,  refined 
woman  (even  if  her  refinement  was  French  veneer- 
ing), surrounded  by  rude,  coarse  men.  What  is  the 
use  of  "  argie  bargieing"  about  it  ?  Still,  I  suppose, 
we  must  have  a  bone  of  some  kind,  and  this  is  cer- 
tainly a  more  sensible  one  than  the  "  point  of  divin- 
ity," which  happily  is  going  somewhat  out  of  fashion. 

To-day's  talk  on  the  coach  was  all  of  the  demon- 
stration at  Dunfermline,  and  one  after  another  inci- 


a 


242  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

dent  was  recalled.  Bailie  Walker  was  determined 
Ave  should  learn  what  real  Scotch  gooseberries  are, 
and  had  put  on  the  coach  an  immense  basketful  of 
them,  "  We  never  can  dispose  of  so  many,"  was  the 
verdict  at  Kinross  ;  at  Perth  it  was  modified,  and  ere 
Pitlochrie  was  reached  the  verdict  was  reversed  and 
more  wished  for.  Our  American  friends  had  never 
known  gooseberries  before,  friend  Bailie,  so  they  said. 
Fair  Perth  was  to  be  our  resting-place,  but  be- 
•fore  arriving  there  the  pedestrians  of  the  party  had 
one  of  their  grandest  excursions,  walking  through 
beautiful  Glen  Farg.  They  were  overpowered  at 
every  turn  by  its  loveliness,  and  declared  that  there 
is  nothing  like  it  out  of  Scotland.  The  ferns  and  the 
wild  flowers,  in  all  their  dewy  freshness  after  the 
rains,  made  us  all  young  again,  and  the  glen  echoed 
our  laughter  and  our  songs.  The  outlet  from  the 
glen  into  the  rich  Carse  of  Gowrie  gave  us  another 
surprise  worthy  of  record.  There  is  nothing,  I  think, 
either  in  Britain  or  America,  that  is  equal  in  cultiva- 
tion to  the  famous  Carse  of  Gowrie.  They  will  be 
clever  agrriculturists  who  teach  the  farmers  of  the 
Carse  how  to  increase  very  greatly  the  harvest  of 
that  portion  of  our  good  mother  earth.  Davie  be- 
gan to  see  how  it  is  that  Scotland  grows  crops  that 
England  cannot  rival.  Perthshire  is  a  very  beauti- 
ful county,  neither  Highland  nor  Lowland,  but  occu- 
pying, as  it  were,  the  golden  mean  between,  and 
possessed  of  many  of  the  advantages  of  both. 


Perth,  Saturday,  July  29. 
The  view  from  the  hill-top  ov^erlooking  Perth  is 
superb.     "  Fair  Perth  indeed  !"  we  all  exclaim.    The 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  243 

winding  Tay,  with  one  large  sail-boat  gliding  on  its 
waters,  the  fertile  plains  beyond,  and  the  bold  crag 
at  the  base  of  which  the  river  sweeps  down,  arrested 
the  attention  of  our  happy  pedestrians  and  kept  them 
long  upon  the  hill.  I  had  never  seen  Perth  before, 
and  it  was  a  surprise  to  me  to  find  its  situation  so 
very  fine  ;  but  then  we  are  all  more  and  more  sur- 
prised at  what  Scotland  has  to  show  when  thorough- 
ly examined.  The  finer  view  from  the  hill  of  Kin- 
noul  should  be  seen,  if  one  would  know  of  what  Scot- 
land has  to  boast. 

Before  starting  to-day  we  had  time  to  stroll 
along  the  Tay  for  an  hour  or  two.  We  were  espe- 
cially attracted  by  a  volunteer  regiment  under  drill 
upon  the  green,  and  were  gratified  to  see  that  the 
men  looked  remarkably  well  under  close  inspection, 
as  indeed  did  all  the  militia  and  volunteers  we  saw. 
The  nation  cannot  be  wrong  in  accounting  these 
forces  most  valuable  auxiliaries  in  case  of  need.  I 
have  no  doubt  but  in  the  course  of  one  short  cam- 
paign they  would  equal  regular  troops  ;  at  least  such 
was  the  experience  in  the  American  war.  The  men 
we  saw  were  certainly  superior  to  regulars  as  men. 
It  is  in  a  war  of  defence,  when  one's  own  country  is 
to  be  fought  for,  that  bayonets  which  can  think  are 
wanted.  With  such  a  question  at  issue,  these  Scotch- 
men would  rout  any  regular  troops  in  the  world 
who  opposed  them  for  pay.  As  for  miserable  skir- 
mishes against  poor  half-armed  savages,  I  hope  these 
men  would  think  enough  to  despise  the  bad  use  they 
were  put  to. 

The  villas  we  saw  upon  the  opposite  bank  of  the 
Tay  looked  very  pretty — niqc  home-like  places,  with 


244  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

« 

their  gardens  and  boat-houses.  We  voted  fair  Perth 
very  fair  indeed.  After  luncheon,  which  was  taken 
in  the  hotel  at  Dunkeld,  we  left  our  horses  to  rest 
and  made  an  excursion  of  a  few  miles  to  the  falls,  to 
the  place  in  the  Vale  of  Athol  where  Millais  made  the 
sketch  for  his  celebrated  picture  called  "  O'er  the 
hills  and  far  awa'."  It  is  a  grand^view,  and  lighted 
as  it  then  was  by  glimpses  of  sunshine  through  dark 
masses  of  cloud,  giving  many  of  the  rainbow  tints 
upon  the  heather,  it  is  sure  to  remain  long  with  us. 
For  thirty  miles  stretch  the  vast  possessions  of  the 
Duke  of  Athol  ;  over  mountain,  strath,  and  glen  he 
is  monarch  of  all  the  eye  can  see — a  noble  heritage. 
A  recent  storm  is  said  to  have  uprooted  seventy 
thousand  of  his  trees  in  a  single  night. 

The  coachman  who  drove  us  to-day  interested  us 
by  his  knowledge  of  men  and  things — such  a  charac- 
ter as  could  hardly  grow  except  on  the  heather.  He 
"  did  not  think  muckle  o'  one  man  owning  thirty  miles 
o'  land  who  had  done  nothing  for  it."  His  reply  to 
a  question  was  given  with  such  a  pawkie  expression 
that  it  remains  fixed  in  the  memory.  "Why  do  not  the 
people  just  meet  and  resolve  that  they  will  no  longer 
have  kings,  princes,  dukes  or  lords,  and  declare  that 
all  men  are  born  equal,  as  we  have  done  in  America  ?" 

"  Aye,  maan,  it  would  hae  to  be  a  j-/;-^?//^'- meeting 
that!" 

That  strong  was  so  very  strong  ;  but  there  Avill 
be  one  strong  enough  some  day,  for  all  that.  We 
cannot  stand  nonsense  forever,  patient  as  we  are  and 
slow. 

Dunkeld  is  the  gateway  of  the  Highlands,  and  we 
enter  it,  singing  as  we  pass  upward. 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  24c 

"There  are  hills  beyond  Pentland 
And  streams  beyond  Forth  ; 
If  there  are  lords  in  the  south 
There  are  chiefs  in  the  north." 

We  are  among-  the  real  hills  at  last.  Yonder 
towers  Birnam,  and  here  Dunsinane  Hill.  Mighty 
master,  even  here  is  your  shade,  and  we  dwell  again 
in  3^our  shadow.  The  very  air  breathes  of  Macbeth, 
and  the  murdered  Banquo  still  haunts  the  glen. 
How  perfectly  wShakespeare  flings  into  two  words  the 
slow  gathering  darkness  of  night  in  this  northern 
latitude,  among  the  deep  green  pines  : 

"  Ere  the  bat  hath  flown 
His  cloister'd  flight  ;  ere,  to  black  Hecate's  summons, 
The  shard-borne  beetle,  with  his  drowsy  hums, 
Hath  rung  night's  yawning  peal,  there  shall  be  done 

A  deed  of  dreadful  note 

Light  thickens  ;  and  the  crow 

Makes  wing  to  the  rooky  wood  : 

Good  things  of  day  begin  to  droop  and  drowse  ; 

Whiles  night's  black  agents  to  their  prey  do  rouse." 

That  man  shut  his  eyes  and  imagined  more  than 
other  men  could  see  with  their  eyes  wide  open 
even  when  among  the  scenes  depicted.  The  light 
does  "  thicken,"  and  the  darkness  creeps  upon  us  and 
wraps  us  in  its  mantle  unawares. 


PiTLOCHRlE,  Sunday,  July  30-31. 

This  is  a  famous  resort  in  the  Highlands  ;  and  de- 
servedly so,  for  excursions  can  be  made  in  every 
direction  to  famous  spots.  We  visited  the  hydro- 
pathic establishment  in  the  evening,  and  found  some- 
thing resembling  an  American  hotel.  Such  estab- 
lishments are  numerous  in   England  and  Scotland. 


246  OUR   COACHING    TRIP. 


• 


Few  of  the  guests  take  the  cold-water  treatment,  as 
1  had  supposed,  but  visit  the  hotels  more  for  sake  of 
a  change,  to  make  acquaintances,  and  to  "  have  a 
good  time,"  as  we  say.  I  have  no  doubt  that  a 
month  of  Pitlochrie  air  is  highly  beneficial  for  ahiiost 
any  one. 

We  walked  to  the  falls  of  Tummel,  and  spent 
some  happy  hours  there.  Cousin  Eliza  is  up  in 
Scotch  songs,  and  I  start  her  every  now  and  then. 
It  has  a  charm  of  its  own  to  sit  on  the  banks  of  the 
very  stream,  with  Athol  near,  and  listen  to  the  in- 
quiry finely  sung  : 

"  Cam  ye  by  Athol, 
Lad  wi'  the  philibeg, 
Down  by  the  Tummel 
And  banks  of  the  Garey  ?" 

Through  these  very  glens  the  mountaineers  came 

rushing, 

"And  with  the  ocean's  mighty  swing 
When  heaving  to  the  tempest's  wing 
They  hurled  them  on  the  foe." 

There  is  a  new  meaning  to  the  song  when  Davie 
pours  it  forth  in  the  glen  itself  : 

"  Sweet  the  lavrock's.note  and  lang, 
Lilting  wildly  up  the  glen, 
But  aye  to  me  it  sings  ae  sang, 
Will  ye  no  come  back  again  ?" 

What  a  chorus  we  gave  him  !  There  are  some 
days  in  which  we  live  more  than  twenty-four  hours  ; 
and  these  days  in  Scottish  glens  count  for  more  than 
a  week  of  ordinary  life.  We  are  in  the  region  of 
gamekeepers  and  dogs.     It  is  the  last  day  of  July, 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  247 

and  the  whole  country  is  preparing  for   the  annual 
massacre  of  the  12th  of  August. 

The  prices  paid  for  a  deer  forest  in  Scotland 
are  absurd.  Twenty-five  to  fifty  thousand  dollars 
per  annum  for  the  right  to  shoot  over  a  few 
thousand  acres  of  poorly  timbered  land,  and  a  force 
of  gamekeepers  and  other  attendants  to  pay  for 
besides. 

For  the  present  the  British  are  what  is  called  a 
sporting  people,  and  the  Highlands  are  their  favor- 
ite hunting-grounds.  Their  ideas  of  sport  are  cu- 
rious. General  Sheridan  told  me  that,  when  abroad, 
he  Avas  invited  to  try  some  of  their  sport,  but  when 
he  saw  the  poor  animals  driven  to  him,  and  that  all 
he  had  to  do  was  to  bang  away,  he  returned  the  gun 
to  the  attendant.  He  really  could  not  do  this  thing, 
and  the  General  is  not  very  squeamish  either.  As 
for  hunting  down  a  poor  hare — that  needs  the  dead- 
ening influence  of  custom. 

The  first  of  all  our  glens  is  the  pass  of  Killiecran- 
kie,  through  which  we  Avalked  on  our  way  northward 
to-day — nothing  quite  so  wild  so  far.  The  dark,  am- 
ber-brown rushing  torrent  is  superb  swirling  among 
the  rocks,  down  which  it  has  poured  through 
seons  of  time,  wearing  them  into  strange  forms. 
The  very  streams  are  Scotch,  witli  a  character  all 
their  own,  portraying  the  stern  features  of  the  race, 
torn  and  twisted  by  endless  ages  of  struggle  with  the 
rocks  which  impeded  their  passage,  triumphantly 
clearing  their  pathway  to  the  sea  at  last  by  unceas- 
ing, persistent  endeavor.  The  sides  of  Scotia's  glens 
are  a  never-failing  source  of  elelight,  the  wild  flow- 
ers and  the  ferns  seem  so  much  more  delicately  'iiwQ 


248  OUR   COACHING    TRIP.      ' 

than  they  are  anywhere  else.     One  understands  how 
they  affected  Burns. 

Some  of  our  ladies,  mother  always  for  one,  will 
delay  the  coach  any  time  to  range  the  sides  of  the 
glen  ;  and  it  is  with  great  difficulty  that  we  can  get 
them  together  to  mount  once  more.  The  horn 
sounds  again  and  again,  and  still  they  linger  ;  and 
when  they  at  last  emerge  from  the  copse,  it  is  with 
handfuis  or  rather  armfuls  of  Nature's  smiles — lapfuls 
of  wild  flowers — each  one  rejoicing  in  her  trophies, 
happy  as  the  day  is  long,  only  it  is  not  half  long 
enough.  Go  the  sun  down  never  so  late  it  sinks  to 
its  rest  too  soon. 

Dalwhinnie,  August  r. 
Our  drive  from  Pitlochrie  to  Dalwhinnie,  thirty- 
two  miles,  was  from  beginning  to  end  unsurpassed — - 
mountain  and  moor,  forest  and  glen.  The  celebrated 
falls  of  Bruar  lay  in  our  route,  and  we  spent  two 
hours  walking  up  the  glen  to  see  them.  Well  were 
we  repaid.  This  is  decided  to  be  the  finest,  most 
varied  fall  of  all  we  have  seen.  The  amber  torrent 
works  and  squirms  itself  through  caldrons  there,  and 
gorges  here,  and  dashes  over  precipices  yonder,  re- 
vealing new  beauties  and  giving  us  fresh  delights  at 
every  step.  No  gentle  kiss  gives  this  Scotch  fiend 
to  every  sedge  it  overtaketh  in  its  pilgrimage,  for  in 
truth,  dashing  and  splashing  against  the  rocks,  the 
surging,  boiling  water,  with  its  crest  of  sparkling 
foam,  seems  a  live  spirit  escaping  from  the  glen  and 
bounding  to  the  sea,  pursued  by  angry  demons  be- 
hind. Standing  on  the  bridge  across  the  Bruar,  one 
need   not  be   entirely  off  his  balance  to  sympathize 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  249 

to  some  extent  with  the  wild  wish  of  my  young  lady 
friend,  who  thought  if  she  had  to  be  anything  dead 
she  would  be  a  plunging,  mad  stream  like  this,  danc- 
ing among  the  rocks,  snatching  to  its  breast,  as  it 
passed  the  bluebell  and  the  forget-me-not,  the  broom 
and  the  foxglove,  leaping  over  precipices  and  toss- 
ing its  gay  head  in  sparkling  rainbow  sprays  forever 
and  ever. 

It  was  while  gazing  at  this  fall  that  Burns  wrote 
the  petition  of  Bruar  water.  The  shade  asked  for 
has  been  restored — "  Clanalpine's  pine,  in  battle 
brave,"  now  fill  the  glen,  and  the  falls  of  the  Bruar 
sing  their  grateful  thanks  to  the  bard  who  loved 
them. 

I  have  often  reminded  you,  good  readers,  that 
the  coaching  party,  with  a  few  exceptions,  hailed 
with  delight  every  opportunity  for  a  walk.  Con- 
trary to  expectation,  these  came  much  less  frequently 
in  Scotland  than  in  England.  Far  away  up  among 
the  towering  hills,  where  the  roads  necessarily  follow 
the  streams  which  have  pushed  themselves  through 
the  narrow  defiles,  we  get  miles  and  miles  in  the 
glens  along  the  ever-changing  streams  ;  but  it  is  too 
level  for  pedestrianism  unless  we  reduce  the  pace  of 
the  coach  and  walk  tlie  horses.  It  is  after  a  two 
hours'  climb  up  the  glen  to  see  such  a  waterfall  as 
the  Bruar  that  we  return  to  the  coach  feeling,  as  wb 
mount  to  our  seats,  that  we  have  done  our  duty. 
We  were  many  miles  from  our  lunching  site,  and 
long  ere  it  was  reached  we  were  overtaken  by  the 
moimtain  hunger.  When  we  arrived  at  the  house 
on  the  moors  where  entertainment  had  been  prom- 
ised us,  it  was    to  find  that  it  had  been  rented  for 


250  OUR   COACHING    TRIP. 

the  season  for  a  shooting-box  by  a  party  of  EngHsh 
gentlemen,  who  were  to  arrive  in  a  few  days.  The 
people,  however,  were  very  kind,  and  gave  us  the 
use  of  the  house.  Few  midday  halts  gave  rise  to 
more  gayety  than  this,  but  there  is  one  item  to  be 
here  recorded  which  is  peculiar  to  this  luncheon. 
For  the  first  and  only  time  the  stewardess  had  to 
confess  that  her  supplies  were  exhausted.  Due 
allowance,  she  thought,  had  been  made  for  the  effects 
of  Highland  air,  but  the  climb  to  Bruar,  "or  the 
brunt  of  the  weather,"  had  produced  an  unusual  de- 
mand. The  very  last  morsel  was  eaten,  and  there 
seemed  a  flavor  of  hesitancy  in  the  assurance  some 
of  us  gave  her  that  we  wished  for  nothing  more. 
There  was  not  even  one  bite  left  for  the  beautiful 
collies  we  saw  there.  Has  the  amount  and  depth  of 
affection  which  a  woman  can  waste  on  a  collie  dog 
ever  been  justly  fathomed  ?  was  a  question  raised  to- 
day ;  but  our  ladies  declined  to  entertain  it  at  all  un- 
less "  waste"  was  changed  to  "  bestow."  I  accept- 
ed the  amendment.  Many  stories  were  told  of  these 
wonderful  pets,  and  what  their  mistresses  had  done 
for  them.  My  story  was  a  true  one.  Miss  Nettie 
having  to  go  abroad  had  to  leave  her  collie  in  some 
one's  care.  Many  eligible  parties  had  been  thought- 
fully canvassed,  when  I  suggested  that  as  I  had  given 
her  the  dog  it  might  be  perfectly  safe  to  leave  him 
with  me,  or  rather  with  John  and  the  horses.  A 
grave  shake  of  the  head,  and  then,  "  I  have  thought 
of  that,  but  have  given  it  up.  It  would  never  do. 
Trust  requires  a  ivoinan  s  care.''  Not  a  smile,  >all  as 
grave  as  if  her  pet  had  been  a  delicate  child.  "  You 
are  quite  right,"   I  replied;    "no  doubt  he  would 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  251 

have  a  dog's  life  of  it  at  the  stable."  She  said  yes, 
mournfully,  and  never  suspected  a  joke.  But  if  the 
ladies  must  go  wild  over  seme  kind  of  a  dog,  let  it 
be  a  collie.      I  like  them  myself  a  little. 

It  was  gloaming  ere  we  reached  Lake  Ericht, 
twelve  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the  sea,  and  en- 
tered the  queer  little  inn  at  Dalwhinnie.  A  bright 
fire  was  made,  and  we  were  as  gay  as  larks  at  din- 
ner. I  am  sure  nothing  could  surprise  Americans 
more  than  the  dinners  and  meals  generally  which 
were  given  us  even  in  such  out-of-the-way  stations 
as  this.  Everything  is  good,  well  cooked,  and  nicely 
served.  It  is  astonishing  what  a  good,  nice  dinner 
and  a  glass  of  genuinely  old  claret  does  for  a  party 
after  such  a  long  day's  drive  and  a  climb. 

Reassembling  after  dinner  in  our  neat  little  par- 
lor, the  Stars  and  Stripes  displa3^ed  as  usual  over 
the  mantel,  we  were  all  as  fresh  and  bright  as  if  we 
had  newly  risen,  and  were  in  for  a  frolic.  The  inci- 
dents of  the  day  gave  us  plenty  to  talk  about — the 
falls,  the  glen,  that  mountain  blue,  the  lake,  and  oh  ! 
that  first  dazzling  glint  of  purple  heather  upon  the 
hiirh  rock  in  the  ijlen  which  drew  forth  such  excla- 
mations  !  A  little  patch  it  was  which,  having  caught 
more  of  the  sunshine  there  than  that  upon  the 
moors,  had  burst  before  it  into  the  purple  and  given 
to  most  of  us  for  the  first  time  ample  proof  of  the 
rich,  glorious  beauty  of  that  famous  plant. 

What  says  Annie's  song  ? 

"  I  can  calmly  gaze  o'er  the  flowery  lea, 
I  can  tentless  muse  o'er  the  summer  sea  ; 
But  a  nameless  rapture  my  bosom  fills 
As  I  gaze  on  the  face  of  the  heather  hills." 


352  OUR   COACHING    TRIP. 

Aye,  Annie,  the  "  nameless  rapture"  swells  in 
the  bosom  of  every- Scotchman  worthy  of  the  name, 
when  he  treads  the.  heather. 

Andrew  Martin's  prize  song,  "The  Emigrant's 
Lament,"  has  the  power  of  a  flower  to  symbolize  the 
things  that  tug  hardest  at  the  heart-strings  very 
strongly  drawn.  By  the  way,  let  it  be  here  record- 
ed, thanks  to  friend  John  Reid,  This  is  a  Dunferm- 
line song,  written  by  administer,  the  Rev.  Mr.  Gil- 
fillan — if  his  sermons  were  equal  to  this,  he  should 
have  stood  high  in  the  kirk — three  cheers  for  Dun- 
fermline !  (that  always  brings  the  thunder,  aye,  and 
something  of  the  lightning  too).  The  Scotchman 
who  left  the  land  where  his  forefathers  sleep  sings  : 

"  The  palm-tree  waveth  high,  and  fair  the  myrtle  springs, 
And  to  the  Indian  maid  the  bulbul  sweetly  sings  ; 
But  I  dinna  see  the  broom  \vi'  its  tassels  on  the  lea. 
Nor  hear  the  Unties  sang  o'  my  ain  countrie." 

There  it  is,  neither  palm-tree  nor  myrtle,  poinset- 
ta  nor  Victoria  Regina,  nor  all  that  luscious  nature 
has  to  boast  in  the  dazzling  lands  of  the  south,  all 
put  together,  will  ever  make  good  to  that  woe-be- 
gone,  desolate,  charred  heart  the  lack  of  that  wee  yel- 
low bush  o'  broom — never  !  Nor  will  all  "the  drowsy 
syrups  of  the  East"  quiet  the  ache  of  that  sad  breast 
which  carries  within  it  the  dooms  of  exile  from  the 
scenes  and  friends  of  youth.  They  cannot  agree,  in 
these  days,  where  a  man's  soul  is,  much  less  where 
it  is  goij|ig  ;  let  search  be  made  for  it  close,  very 
close,  to  the  roots  of  that  ache.  It  is  not  far  away 
from  that  centre  which  colors  the  stream  of  man's 
life. 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  253 

Many  times  to-day,  in  the  exhilaration  of  the  mo- 
ment, one  or  another  enthusiastic  member  called 
out,  "What  do  ye  think  o'  Sc(jtland  noo  ?"  and 
even  Emma  had  to  confess  in  a  half- whisper  that 
England  was  nothing  to  this.  Perry  and  Joe  had 
never  been  beyond  the  borders  before,  and  gave  in 
their  adhesion  to  the  verdict — there  was  no  place 
like  Scotland.      "  Right,  Perry  !" 

We  have  never  seen  the  paragon  of  grace,  the 
Scottish  bluebell,  in  its  glory  till  now.  It  is  not  to 
be  judged  in  gardens  ;  it  is  not  in  its  element  there  ; 
but  steat^upon  it  in  the  glen  and  see  how  it  goes  to 
your  heart.  Truly  I  think  the  Scotch  are  the  best 
lovers  of  flowers,  make  the  most  of  them,  and  draw 
more  from  them  than  any  other  people  do.  This  is 
a  good  sign,  and  may  be  adduced  as  another  proof 
that  the  race  has  a  tender,  weak  spot  in  the  heart  to 
relieve  the  hard  level  head  with  which  the  world 
credits  them. 

Whew  !  Thermometer  53°  during  the  night,  the 
coldest  weather  experienced  during  our  journey. 
But  how  invigorating  !  Ten  years  knocked  off  from 
the  age  of  every  one  of  us,  excepting  from  that  of 
several  of  the  ladies,  who  could  hardly  spare  so  much 
and  still  be  as  charming. 

We  were  stirring  early  this  morning,  in  for  a 
walk  across  the  moors,  with  the  glorious  hills  sur- 
rounding us.  A  grand  walk  it  was  too,  and  the 
echoes  of  the  horn  came  all  too  soon  upon  us.  Look- 
ing back  down  the  valley  of  Lake  Ericht,  we  had  the 
ideal  Highland  view — mountains  everywhere  fading 
into  blue  in  the  distance,  green  to  their  tops  except 
when  capped  with  snow,  and  bare,  not  a  tree  nor  a 
17 


254  OUR   COACHING    TRIP. 

shrub  to  break  their  baldness,  and  the  lake  lying 
peacefully  among  them  at  the  foot  of  the  vale. 
These  towering  masses 

"  Seem  to  stand  to  sentinel  Enchanted  Land." 

I  am  at  a  loss  for  any  scenery  elsewhere  with 
which  to  compare  that  of  the  Highlands.  The  blu- 
ish tinge  above,  the  rich  purple  tint  below,  the  thick 
and  thin  marled,  cloudy  sky  with  its  small  rifts  of 
clear  blue,  through  which  alone  the  sun  glints  to  re- 
lieve the  dark  shadows  by  narrow  dazzling  lights — 
these  give  this  scenery  a  we!rd  and  solemn  grandeur 
unknown  elsewhere  ;  at  least  I  have  seen  nothing 
like  it.  During  my  strolls  at  night  amid  such  scenes, 
I  have  always  felt  nearer  to  the  awful  mysteries  than 
ever  before.  The  glowering  bare. masses  of  mountain, 
the  deep  still  lake  sleeping  among  them,  the  sough 
of  the  wind  through  the  glen,  not  one  trace  of  man 
to  be  seen,  no  wonder  it  makes  one  eerie,  and  you 
feel  as  if 

"  Nature  had  made  a  pause. 
An  awful  pause,  prophetic  of  its  end." 

Memory  must  have  much  to  do  with  this  eerie 
feeling  upon  such  occasions,  I  take  it,  for  every  scrap 
of  Scottish  poetry  and  song  bearing  upon  the  High- 
lands comes  rushing  back  to  me.  There  are  whis- 
pering sounds  in  the  glen  : 

"  Shades  of  the  dead,  have  I  not  heard  your  voices 
Rise  on  the  night-rolling  breath  of  the  gale? 
Surely  the  soul  of  the  hero  rejoices 

And  rides  on  the  wind  o'er  his  own  Highland  vale." 

I  hear  the  lament  of  Ossian  in  the  sough  of  the 
passing  wind. 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  255 

We  stopped  at  the  inn  at  Kingussie,  one  of  the 
centres  of  sporting-  interest,  but  drove  on  beyond 
to  spread  our  luncheon  upon  the  banks  of  the 
Spey,  close  to  the  ruins  of  Ruthven  Castle,  a  fine 
ruin  in  this  beautiful  valley  of  the  Spey.  We  walked 
to  it  after  luncheon.  It  was  here  that  the  Highland 
clans  assembled  after  the  defeat  of  Flodden  Field  and 
resolved  to  disband,  and  the  country  was  rid  of  the 
Stuarts  fo/ever.  How  far  the  world  has  travelled 
since  those  days  !  The  best  king  or  family  of  kings 
in  the  world  is  not  worth  one  drop  of  an  honest 
man's  blood.  If  the  House  of  Commons  should  de- 
cide to-day  that  the  Prince  of  Wales  is  not  a  fit  and 
proper  figure-head,  and  should  vote  that  my  Lord 
Tom  Noddy  is,  there  is  not  a  sane  man  in  the  realm 
who  would  move  a  finger  for  the  rightful  heir  ;  yet 
our  forefathers  thought  it  a  religious  duty  to  plunge 
their  country  into  civil  war  to  restore  the  Stuarts — 

"  A  coward  race,  to  honor  lost  ; 
Who  knew  them  best  despised  them  most." 

But  I  suppose  they  were  about  a  fair  average  of 
royal  races.  It  does  one  good  to  mark  such  progress. 
I  will  not  believe  that  man  goes  round  in  a  circle  as 
the  earth  does  ;  upon  the  king  absurdity  he  has  trav- 
elled a  straight  line.  When  we  made  kings  by  act 
of  Parliament  (as  the  Guelphs  were  made),  another 
lesson  was  learned,  that  Parliament  can  unmake  them 
too.  That  is  one  bloody  circle  we  need  never  travel 
again.  Not  one  drop  of  blood  for  all  the  royal  fami- 
lies in  Christendom.     Carried,  ncui.  con. 

We  even  hear  of  a  second  step  proposed  :  no 
more    marriage    portions    for    extravagant,  riotous 


256  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

princes  to  set  disgraceful  examples  with,  and  three 
Cabinet  Ministers  saying-  Amen.  I  rather  enjoy  the 
spectacle  of  the  royal  family  begging  hat  in  hand. 
It  is  such  a  splendid  lesson,  such  a  grand  thing  for 
us  to  be  proud  of  coming  from  "the  fountain  ot 
honor."  (Don't  laugh,  that  is  what  they  call  it.) 
Bah  !  let  them  earn  an  honest  living  like  the  rest  of  / 
us.  That  will  be  the  upshot  of  all  this,  one  of  these 
happy  days  ;  for  the  present,  let  us  congratulate  our- 
selves that  the  great-grandson  of  the  man  who 
Avould  have  died  for  Prince  Charlie  grumbles  at 
Gwen  paying  ior  Prince  Leopold. 

Boat  o'  Garden  was  to  be  our  refuge,  a  small, 
lovely  inn  on  the  moors,  the  landlady  of  which  had 
telegraphed  us  in  a  rather  equivocal  way  in  response 
to  our  request  for  shelter.  There  was  no  other  house 
for  many  miles,  so  we  pushed  on,  trusting  to  our 
star.  We  were  all  right.  The  house  was  to  be 
filled  on  the  morrow  with  sportsmen,  and  we  could 
be  entertained  "  for  this  night  only."  Such  is  luck. 
Even  as  it  Was,  the  family  rooms  had  to  be  given  up 
to  us  ;  but  then,  dear  souls,  there  is  nothing  they 
would  not  do  for  the  Americans.  As  for  the  coach, 
there  was  no  building  on  the  moors  high  enough  to 
take  in  the  huge  vehicle  ;  but  as  showing  the  extreme 
care  taken  of  property  in  this  country,  I  note  that 
heavy  tarpaulins  were  obtained,  and  it  was  nicely 
covered  for  the  night.  What  a  monster  it  seemed 
standing  out  in  the  darkness  ! 

After  dinner  we  received  packages  of  the  Dun- 
fermline papers  containing  the  full  account  of  the 
demonstration  there  and  of  the  speeches.  It  goes 
without  saying  that  there  was  great  anxiety  to  read 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  257 

the  account  of  that  extraordinary  ovation.  Those 
who  had  made  speeches  and  said  they  were  not  very 
sure  what,  were  seen  to  retire  to  quiet  corners  and 
bury  themselves  in  their  copies.  Ah,  gentlemen,  it 
is  of  no  use  !  Read  your  orations  twenty  times 
over,  you  are  just  as  far  as  ever  from  being  able  to 
gauge  your  wonderful  performances  ;  besides  the 
speech  made  is  nothing  compared  to  any  of  half  a 
dozen  you  have  since  made  to  yourself  on  the  same 
subject.  Ah  !  the  Dunfermline  people  should  have 
heard  these.  So  sorry  !  One  can  tell  all  about  the 
speeches  of  his  colleagues,  however,  and  we  made 
each  other  happy  by  ver)'^  liberal  laudations,  while 
we  each  felt  once  more  the  generous  rounds  of  ap- 
plause with  which  we  had  been  greeted. 

After  mailing  copies  of  the  newspapers  to  numer- 
ous friends,  there  came  a  serious  cloud  over  all.  This 
was  to  be  our  last  night  on  the  moors  ;  the  end  of 
our  wayward  life  had  come.  One  more  merry  start 
at  the  horn's  call,  and  to-morrow's  setting  sun  would 
see  the  end  of  our  happy  dream.  Arcadia  would  be 
no  more  ;  the  Charioteers'  occupation  would  be  gone. 
It  was  resolved  that  something  should  be  done  to 
celebrate  the  night  to  distinguish  it  from  others. 
We  would  conform  to  the  manners  and  customs  of 
the  country  and  drink  to  our  noble  selves  in  whiskey 
toddy  with  Highland  honors.  This  proved  a  suc- 
cess. Songs  were  sung  ;  Aaleek  was  in  his  most 
admirable  fooling;  "your  health  and  song  "  went 
^round,  and  we  parted  in  tolerably  good  spirits. 

There  was  an  unusual  tenderness  in  the  grasp  of 
the  hand,  and  mayhap  something  of  a  tremor  in  the 
kind   "  Good-night,   happy  dreams,"  with  which  it 


258  OUR   COACHING    TRIP. 

was  the  custom  of  the  members  to  separate  for  the 
night,  and  we  went  to  bed  wondering  what  we  had 
done  to  deserve  so  much  happiness. 


Boat  o'  Garden,  August  2. 

Inverness  at  last  !  But  most  of  us  were  up  an(J 
away  in  advance  of  the  coach,  for  who  would  miss 
the  caller  air  and  the  joy  of  the  moors  these  blessed 
mornings  when  it  seems  joy  enough  simply  to 
breathe  ?  But  did  not  we  catch  it  this  morningf  !  No 
use  trying  to  march  against  this  blow  ;  the  wind 
fairly  beat  us,  and  we  were  all  glad  to  take  refuge  in 
the  school-house  till  the  coach  came  ;  and  glad 
were  we  that  we  had  done  so.  Was  it  not  a  sight 
to  see  the  throng  of  sturdy  boys  and  girls  gathered 
together  from  who  knows  where  !  for  miles  and 
miles  there  are  seen  but  a  few  low  huts  upon  the 
moors  ;  but  as  some  one  has  said,  "  Education  is  a 
passion"  in  Scotland,  and  much  of  the  admitted  suc- 
cess of  the  race  has  its  root  in  this  truth.  The 
poorest  crofter  in  Scotland  will  see  that  his  child  gets 
to  school. 

Note  this  in  the  fine  old  song, 

"  When  Aaleck,  Jock,  and  Jeanettie 
Are  up  and  got  their  lair, 
The)''Il  serve  to  gar  the  boatie  row 
And  lichten  a'  our  care." 

Heavy  is  the  load  of  care  that  the  Scotch  father 
and  mother  take  upon  themselves  and  struggle  with 
all  the  years  of  their  prime  that  the  bairns  "  may  get 
their  lair."  To  the  credit  of  the  bairns  let  it  be  no- 
ted that  the  hope  expressed  in  the  verse  just  quoted 


BRIGHTON    TO  INVERNESS.  259 

is  not  often  disappointed.  They  do  grow  up  to  be 
a  comfort  to  their  parents  in  old  age  when  worn 
out  with  sacrifices  made  for  them.  Our  great  men 
come  from  the  cradles  of  poverty.  I  think  he  was  a 
very  wise  man  who  found  out  that  the  advantage  of 
poverty  was  a  great  prize  which  a  rich  man  could 
never  give  his  son.  But  we  should  not  condemn  the 
Marquises  of  Huntley,  the  Dukes  of  Hamilton,  and 
the  rest  of  them  ;  they  never  had  a  fair  chance  to 
become  useful  men.  It  is  the  S3"stem  that  is  at 
fault,  and  for  that  we  the  people  are  responsi- 
ble. The  privileged  classes  might  turn  out  quite 
respectably  if  they  had  justice  done  them  and 
were  permitted  to  start  in  life  as  other  men  are. 
For  my  part,  I  wonder  that  they  generally  turn 
out  as  well  as  they  do.  The  kite  mounts  only 
against  the  wind.  People  of  rank  might  cease  to 
occupy  the  present  dull  level  their  class  presents  and 
mount  too  if  we  did  not  "  come  between  the  wind 
and  their  nobility."  Do  be  just.  \^4e  sow  for  me- 
diocrities, and  we  get  them.  Why  should  not  the 
aristocracy  furnish  a  Darwin  or  a  Huxley,  a  Watt 
or  a  Bessemer,  a  Robertson  Smith,  a  Gladstone  or  a 
Disraeli,  a  Princeps  or  a  Millais,  a  Mill  or  a  Spencer, 
a  Carlyle  or  a  Macaulay,  or  a  somebody,  just  once  ? 
No  reason  in  the  world.  It  has  not  escaped  doing 
so  by  miracle,  but  only  by  being  spoiled  by  pamper- 
ing. What  a  statesman  Edmund  Burlce  was  !  the 
greatest  England  has  yet  produced.  None  of  his 
speeches  show  his  grasp-  more  clearl}^  than  that  in 
which  he  said  :  "  Kings  are  naturally  lovers  of  low 
company.  It  must  indeed  be  admitted  that  many 
of  the  nobility  are  as  perfectly  willing  to  act  the  part 


2  6o  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

of  parasites,  pimps,  and  buffoons,  as  any  of  the  low- 
est of  mankind  can  possibly  be." 

If    Edmund    Burke    said    that,  Avhy    may    I   not  | 

quote  it  here  ?     But  does  it  not  amaze  you  that  the  i 

gentlemen  of  England — and  they  are  the  gentleman 
of  the  world — remain  responsible  in  these  days  for 
such  a  system  ?  Education,  early  education,  alone 
accounts  for  it.  They  do  not  think,  but  they  have 
much  to  answer  for  here.  I  move  that  justice  be 
done,  and  prince  and  duke  be  placed  upon  terms  of 
equality  with  the  best  of  us.  We  should  not  handi- 
cap any  of  our  fellow-citizens  so  fearfully. 

While  revelling  in  the  exquisite  beauty  of  Eng- 
land, such  quiet  and  peaceful  beauty  as  we  had 
never  seen  before,  the  thought  often  came  to  me 
that  I  should  be  compelled  to  assume  the  apologetic 
strain  for  my  beloved  Scotland.  It  could  not  possi- 
bly have  such  attractions  to  show  as  the  more  genial 
South,  but  so  far  from  this  being  so,  as  I  have 
already  said,  tjjiere  was  scarcely  a  morning  or  after- 
noon during  which  the  triumphant  inquiry  was  not 
made,  "  What  do  you  think  of  Scotland  noo  ?"  Of 
all  that  earned  for  Scotland  the  first  place  in  our 
hearts  I  note  the  pretty  stone  school-houses,  with 
teacher's  residence  and  garden  attached,  which 
were  seen  in  almost  every  village,  and  if  I  had  no 
other  foundation  than  this  upon  which  to  predict  the 
continued  intellectual  ascendency  of  Scotland  and 
an  uninterrupted  growth  of  its  people  in  every  de- 
partment of  human  achievement,  I  should  unhesitat- 
ingly rest  it  upon  these  school-houses.  A  people 
which  passes  through  the  parish  school  in  its 
youth    cannot  lose  its  grasp,   or  fall  far  behind  in 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  261 

the  race.  Indeed,  compared  with  the  thorough  edu- 
cation of  the  people,  the  lives  and  quarrels  of  politi- 
cians are  petty  in  the  extreme.  It  is  with  education 
as  with  righteousness,  seek  it  first  and  all  political 
blessings  must  be  added  unto  you.  It  is  the  only 
sure  foundation  upon  which  to  rear  the  superstruc- 
ture of  a  great  state,  and  how  happy  I  am  to  boast 
that  Scotland  is  not  going  to  3  ield  the  palm  in  this 
most  important  of  all  work.  No,  not  even  to  the 
Republic.  From  what  I  saw  of  the  new  schools,  I'll 
back  their  scholars  against  any  lot  of  American  chil- 
dren to-day  ;  but  I  admit  one  great  lack  :  the  former 
would  strike  you  as  somewhat  too  deferential,  dis- 
posed to  bow  too  much  to  their  superiors  in  station, 
while  American  boys  are  said  to  be  born  repeating 
the  Declaration  of  Independence.  No  more  valu- 
able lesson  can  be  taught  a  lad  than  this  :  that  he  is 
born  the  equal  of  the  prince,  and  Avhat  privileges  the 
prince  has  are  unjustlydenied  him.  It  would  do 
Scotch  boys  good  to  hear  my  young  American  neph- 
ews upon  the  doctrine  that  one  man  "  is  as  good  as  an- 
other and  a  good  deal  better. "  Of  the  sights  which 
cause  me  to  lose  temper,  one  is  to  see  a  splendid 
young  Briton,  a  real  manly  fellow,  standing  mum 
like  a  duffer  when  he  is  asked  why  the  son  of  the 
Guelph  family  or  of  any  other  family  should  have  a 
privilege  denied  to  him.  Are  you  less  a  man  ?  Have 
not  you  had  as  honest  parents  and  a  better  grand- 
father ?  Why  do  you  stand  this  injustice  ?  And 
then  he  has  nothing  to  sa}^  Well,  I  have  sometimes 
thought  I  have  noticed  the  cheek  a  little  redder. 
That  is  always  a  consolation.  Thank  God  !  we 
have  nothing  like   this  in  America.     Our  young  men 


262  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

carry  in  their  knapsacks  a  President's  seal,  and  no 
one  is  born  to  any  rank  or  position  above  them.  Un- 
der the  starry  flag  there  are  equal  rights  for  al^.  It 
will  be  so  in  Scotland  perhaps  ere  I  die  (D.  V.)"! 

I  do  not  think  I  have  spoken  of  the  announce- 
ments of  amusements  seen  everywhere  during  the 
trip  throughout  the  rural  districts  :  band  competi- 
tions, cricket  matches,  flower  shows,  wrestling 
matches,  concerts,  theatricals,  hohday  excursions, 
races,  games,  rowing  matches,  football  contests,  and 
sports  of  all  kinds.  We  are  surprised  at  their  num- 
ber, which  gives  uncontestable  evidence  of  the  fact 
that  the  British  people  work  far  less  and  play  far 
more  than  their  American  cousins  do.  No  toilers, 
rich  or  poor,  like  the  Americans  !  The  band  com- 
petitions are  unknown  here,  but  no  doubt  we  shall 
soon  follow  so  good  an  example  and  try  them..  The 
bands  of  a  district  meet  and  compete  for  prizes,  which 
stirs  up  wholesome  rivalry  and  leads  to  excellence. 
I  do  not  know  any  feature  of  British  life  which  would 
strike  an  American  more  forcibly  than  these  con- 
tests. We  should  try  one  here,  and,  by  and  by,  why 
not  an  international  contest  ? — the  Dunfermline 
band  playing  the  "Star-Spangled  Banner"  and  the 
Pittsburgh  performers  "  Rule  Britannia  :"  yes,  that's 
right ;  I  insist  upon  "Rule  Britannia  " — that  is  the  na- 
tion's song  ;  Pm  growing  tired  of  "God  save  the 
Queen" — even  such  a  model  as  the  present  one  is 
only  personal,  after  all.  I  wish  Her  Majesty  well, 
but  I  love  my  country  more.  "Rule  Britannia" 
is  the  national  song  ;  the  other  is  only  personal. 

I  hope  Americans  will  find  some  day  more  time 
for  play,  like  their  wiser  brethren  upon  the  other  side. 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  26 


o 


We  came  to  the  crossing-  of  the  Spey  to-day  to 
find  that  the  long  high  bridge  was  undergoing  ex- 
tensive repairs  and  closed  to  travel.  In  America  it 
would  never  have  occurred  to  us  that  a  bridge 
should  be  closed  while  being  rebuilt,  but  in  the  sci- 
ence of  bridge-building  British  engineers  are  a  gen- 
eration behind  us.  However,  there  was  nothing  for 
it  but  to  follow  down  the  stream  until  another 
bridge  was  found.  W^hen  we  did  find  it,  we  saw  a 
notice  prohibiting  loads  beyond  two  tons  from  cross- 
ing. It  was  a  light  iron  structure  (perhaps  a  Tay 
blunder  upon  a  small  scale).  The  wind  was  whist- 
ling like  a  fiend  about  our  ears  as  it  came  roaring- 
down  the  glen  ;  all  pleasant  while  we  -vvere  in  the 
woods  skirting  the  river  with  our  backs  to  it,  but 
when  we  turned  to  cross  it  seemed  as  if  we  should 
be  blown  bodily  from  the  top  of  the^coach.  Every- 
thing was  taken  off  the  top,  and  we  all  dismounted. 
Perry  and  Joe  drove  over,  while  we  all  walked,  some 
of  us  on  the  lea  side  of  the  coach  for  shelter,  and  in 
a  few  minutes  we  were  so  sheltered  in  the  glen  again 
as  scarcely  to  know  there  was  a  breath  of  air  stir- 
ring ;  but  these  "  Highland  homes  where  tempests 
blow"  know  what  gales  are.  We  have  had  great 
blows  now  and  then  at  some  high  points  crossing 
the  moors,  for  the  hills  you  rarely  cross;  these  you 
have  to  avoid,  but  to-day  was  the  only  time  we 
were  compelled  to  dismount. 

W^e  had  not  far  to  drive  before  we  reached  the 
pretty  little  burn  whicli  falls  into  the  Findhorn,  the 
spot  selected  for  the  last  luncheon. 

But  here  was  the  burn,  the  burnie  of  Ballan- 
tyne,  and  I  repeated,  as  I  now  do  from  memory, [that 


2  64  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

gem.  Listen  to  the  story  of  the  burnie.  No,  you 
shall  only  have  one  verse  of  it  to  tempt  yoij  to  read 
it  all  for  yourselves  : 


\ 


"  And  ither  burnies  joined  and  its  rippling  song  was  o'er, 
For  the  burn  became  a  river  ere  it  reached  the  ocean  shore, 
And  the  wild  waves  rose  to  greet  it  with  their  ain  eerie  croon, 
Working  their  appointed  work  and  never,  never  done." 

Isn't  that  pretty  ?  This  spot  seemed  made  to  order  : 
the  burn,  the  fire,  the  mossy  grass,  the  wild  river, 
the  moor  and  glen,  all  here.  Down  sat  the  Chariot- 
eers for  the  last  happy  luncheon  together.  We 
were  all  so  dangerously  near  the  brink  of  sad  regret 
that  a  bold  effort  was  necessary  to  steer  clear  of 
thoughts  which  pressed  upon  us.  We  had  to  laugh 
for  fear  we  might  cry,  the  smile  ever  lies  so  near  the 
tear.  It  had  to  be  a  lively  luncheon,  that  was  all 
there  was  about  it.  Aaleck  and  Ben  and  Davie  and 
Gardie  all  knew  this,  and  when  duty  calls  it  doesn't 
take  much  to  start  our  boys  to  frolic.  A  few  empty 
bags  which  we  had  used  for  horsefeed  in  emergen- 
cies suggested  a  sack-race.  Such  roars  of  laughter 
when  one  or  the  other  of  the  too  ambitious  contest- 
ants went  to  grass  !  This  was  a  capital  diversion. 
Any  one  looking  down  upon  us  (but  in  these  lonely 
glens  no  eye  is  there  to  see)  would  never  have  im- 
agined that  this  sport  was  started  only  as  a  means  to 
prevent  the  travellers  becoming  mournful  enough 
for  a  funeral.  A  little  management  is  a  great  thing  : 
it  pulled  us  through  the  last  luncheon  with  only  tears 
of  laughter. 

"  in,  Joe  !  Right,  Perry  !  Sound  the  horn  !  All 
aboard  for  Inverness  !"  There  was  something  in  the 
thought,  "  We  have  done  it,"  which  kept  us  from 


BRIGHTON    TO    INVERNESS.  265 

regret,  although  the  rebuke  came  sharply  from  the 
ladies,  as  one  pointed  out  another  milestone,  "  Oh, 
don't,  please  !"  With  every  white  stone  passed  there 
was  a  mile  less  of  Arcadia  to  enjoy.  Over  moor 
and  dale  lies  the  way,  a  beautiful  drive,  gradually 
descending  for  many  miles,  for  we  have  from  twelve 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  sea  level  at  Dalwhinnie 
to  a  few  hundred  only  near  Inverness. 

At  last  the  call  is  made,  "  Stop,  Perry  !"  Capital 
of  the  Highlands,  all  hail  !  Three  rousing  cheers  for 
bonnie  Inverness  !  There  she  lies  so  prettily  upon 
the  Moray  Firth,  surrounded  by  fields  of  emerald 
green,  an  unusually  grand  situation  and  a  remarkabh' 
beautiful  town.  We  stopped  long  upon  the  hill-top 
to  enjoy  the  picture  spread  out  below.  The  Chari- 
oteers will  forget  much  ere  their  entrance  into  In- 
verness fades  from  the  memory.  A  telegram  from 
our  ex-general  manager,  friend  Graham,  conveyed 
to  us  the  congratulations  of  our  Wolverhampton 
connection  upon  the  triumphant  success  of  our  expe- 
dition, to  which  something  like  this  ^vas  sent  : 
"Thanks!  We  arrived  at  the  end  of  this  earthly 
paradise  at  six  o'clock  this  evening.  When  shall  we 
look  upon  its  like  again  ?" 


Inverness,  August  3. 
It  was  Saturday,  6  P.M.,  August  3d,  exactly  seven 
weeks  and  a  day  after  leaving  Brighton,  when  wc  en- 
tered Inverness  and  sat  down  in  our  parlor  at  the 
Caledonian  Hotel.  Up  went  the  fiags  as  usual  ;  din- 
ner was  ordered  ;  then  came  mutual  congratulations 
upon  the  success  of  the  journey  just  finished.  Not 
one  of  the  thirty-two  persons  who  had  at  various 


266  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

times  travelled  with  us  ever  missed  a  meal,  or  had 
been  indisposed  from  fatigue  or  exposure.  Even  Ben 
had  been  improved  by  the  journey.  Nor  had  the 
coach  ever  to  wait  five  minutes  for  any  one  ;  we  had 
breakfasted,  lunched,  and  dined  together,  and  not 
one  had  ever  inconvenienced  the  company  by  failing 
to  be  in  time. 

How  shall  I  render  the  unanimous  verdict  of  the 
company  upon  the  life  we  had  led  ? 

"  I  never  was  so  happy  in  my  life.  No,  Aaleck, 
not  even  upon  my  wedding  journey."  That  is  the 
verdict  of  one  devoted  young  wife,  given  in  presence 
of  her  husband. 

"  1  haven't  been  so  happy  since  my  father  took 
me  fishing,  and  I  wasn't  as  happy  then,"  was 
Aaleck's  statement. 

"  Oh,  iVndrew,  I  have  been  a  young  girl  again  !" 
We  all  know  who  said  that,  Miss  Velvety. 

"  I  can't  help  it,  but  1  don't  Avant  to  speak  of  it 
just  now.  It's  too  sad."  Prima  donna, <this  was  a 
slightl}'  perilous  line  to  follow,  for  the  heart  was  evi- 
dently near  the  mouth  there. 

"  To  think  of  it,  Naig,  I  have  to  go  home  to- 
morrow."    That  was  Eliza. 

"  Jerusalem  the  golden  !  it  would  make  a  wooden 
Indian  jump,  this  life  would.  "  No  need  of  putting  a 
name  to  that,  Bennie,  my  lad  ;  that's  Rugb}^  Tennes- 
see. 

"Andrew,  I've  just  been  in  a  dream  of  happi- 
ness all  the  time."  That  was  the  bold  McCargo 
(oor  Davie). 

"  I  never  expect  to  be  as  happy  for  seven  weeks 
again,"  met  with  a  chorus  of  supporters. 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  267 

Mother,  however,  put  us  all  in  a  more  gleeful 
mood  by  her  verdict  :  "  Well,  I  expect  to  have 
another  coaching  trip  yet.  You'll  see  !  He  can't 
help  doing  more  of  this,  and  I'll  be  there.  He  can't 
keep  me  at  home  !"  And  her  hearty  laugh  and  a  clap 
of  her  hands  above  her  head  brought  Us  all  merrily  to 
dinner.  She's  a  caution,  that  young  mother  of  mine  ; 
but  she  is  very  often  a  true  prophet.  We  shall  see, 
we  shall  see  ! 

After  dinner  we  strolled  about  the  city  and  ad- 
mired its  many  beauties,  especially  the  pretty  Ness, 
which  fiows  through  the  town  to  the  sea.  Its  banks 
and  islands  constitute  one  of  the  finest  of  pleasure- 
grounds  for  the  people,  and  many  a  lover's  tale,  I 
trow,  has  been  told  in  the  shady  walks  beside  it.  I 
felt  quite  sentimental  myself  sauntering  along  be- 
tween the  gloaming  and  the  mirk  with  one  of  the 
young  ladies.  The  long,  long  gloaming  of  the  north 
adds  immensely  to  the  charms  of  such  a  journey  as 
this  we  have  just  taken.  These  are  the  sweetly  pre- 
cious hours  of  the  day. 

On  reassembling  in  our  parlor  an  ominous  lack  of 
hilarity  prevailed.  We  did  manage,  however,  to 
get  the  choir  up  to  the  point  of  giving  this  appropri- 
ate song  with  a  slight  variation  : 

"  Happy  we've  been  a'  thegither, 

Happy  we've  been  in  ane  and  a', 
Blyther  folks  ne'er  coached   thegither, 
Sad  are  we  to  gang  awa'." 

(Chorus.) 

It  wasn't  much  of  a  success.  We  were  not  in  tune, 
nor  in  time  either.  Joe  and  Perry  were  to  come  at 
ten  to  say  good-by.     Here  the  ^grious    business  of 


268  OUR    COACHING    TRIjP. 

life  pressed  upon  us,  escape  being-  impossible.     We 
had  to  meet  it  at  last.     They  came  and  received  the 
thanks  and  adieux  of  all.     1  handed  them  notes  certi- 
fying to  all  coming  coaching  parties  that  fortunate 
indeed   would  be  their  lot  were    Perry  and  Joe  to 
take  them  in  charge.     Joey  responded   in   a  speech 
which  so  riveted  our  attention  during  delivery  that 
not  one  of  us  could  recall  a  sentence  when  he  ceased. 
This  is  one  of  the  sincere  regrets  of  the  travellers,  for 
assuredly  a  copy  of  that  great  effort  would  have  given 
the   record   inestimable    value.      It    was  a  gem.     I 
have  tried  to  catch  it,  but  only  one  sentence  comes  to 
me  :   "  And  has  for  the  'osses,    sir,  they  are  better 
than  when  we  started,  sir  ;  then  they  'ad  flabby  flesh, 
sir  ;  now  they're  neat  an'  'ardy."     So  are  we  all  of 
us,  Joey,  just  like  the  'osses  ;    "  neat  an'  ardy,"   fit 
for  walk,  run,  or  climb,  and  bang-up  to  everything. 
We  had  all  next  day  to  enjoy  Inverness.     What  a 
fine  climate  it  has  as  compared  with  the   Highlands 
south  of  it  !     Vegetation  is  luxuriant  here  and  the 
land  fertile.     One  would  naturally  expect  all  to  be 
bleak  and   bare  so  far  north,  but  that  Gulf   Stream 
Avhich  America  sends  over  to  save  the  precious  tight 
little  isle  from  being  a  region  of  ice  makes  the  region 
delightful  in  summer  and  not  extremely  cold  even 
in  winter.    We  are  assured  that  the  climate  of  Inver- 
ness is  more  genial  than  that  of  Edinburgh,  which  is 
not  saying  very  much  for  the  capital  of  the   north 
surely,  but  still  it  is  something. 


Caledonia  Hotel, 
Inverness,  August  5,  evening. 


General  manag-ej*  at  dinner. 


BRIGHTON   TO  INVERNESS.  269 

To  waiter:  "What  time  do  we  start  in  the 
morning  ?" 

Waiter  :  ' '  The  oninibtis  starts  at  seven,  sir. 
Shakespearian  Student — "  Ah  !  There  was  the 
weight  which  pulled  us  down.  The  omnibus  !  Fare- 
well the  neighing  steeds,  the  spirit-stirring  horn, 
whose  sweet  throat  awaked  the  echoes  o'er  moun- 
tain and  glen.  Farewell,  the  Republican  banner, 
and  all  the  pride,  pomp,  and  circumstance  of  glori- 
ous coaching,  farewell  !  The  Charioteers'  occupa- 
tion's gone." 

First  Miltonic  Reciter  — 

"  From  morn  till  noon, 
From  noon  till  dewy  eve, 
A  summer's  day  we  fell." 

Our  fall  from  our  own  four-in-hand  to  a  public 
omnibus — oh,  what  a  fall  was  there,  my  country- 
men I — jnv'^olved  the  loss  of  many  a  long  summer's 
day  to  us — long  as  the}^  had  been  the  sun  ever  set 
too  soon. 

It  was  all  up  after  this.  Perry  and  Joe,  the  coach 
and  the  horses  were  speeding  away  by  rail  to  their 
homes  ;  we  were  no  longer  tJie  coaching  party,  but 
only  ordinary  tourists  buying  our  tickets  like  other 
people  instead  of  travelling  as  it  were  in  style  upon 
annual  passes.  But  fate  was  merciful  to  us  even  in 
this  extremity  ;  we  were  kept  from  the  very  Jowest 
stage  of  human  misery  by  finding  ourselves  alone 
and  all  together  in  the  omnibus  ;  our  party  just  filled 
it.  If  it  was  only  a  hotel  omnibus,  as  one  of  the 
young  ladies  said,  it  was  all  our  own  yet,  as  was  the 
MacLcan  boat  at  the  flood,  and  the  ladies,  dear 
souls,  managed  to  draw  some  consolation  from  that. 
18 


2  70  OUR    COACHING    TRIP. 

We  returned  from  Inverness  by'^the  usual  tourist 
route  :  canal  and  boat  to  Oban,  where  we  rested 
over  night,  thence  next  day  to  Glasgow.  Under 
any  other  circumstances  I  think  this  part  of  the 
journey  would  have  been  delightful.  The  scene  in- 
delibly impressed  upon  our  minds  is  that  we  saw.  at 
night  near  Ballahulish.  I  remember  a  party  of  us 
agreed  that  what  we  then  saw  could  never  be  for- 
gotten. But  Black  alone  could  paint  it.  It  is  say- 
ing much  for  any  combination-  of  the  elements  when 
not  one  nor  two,  but  more  of  a  party  like  ours  stand 
and  whisper  at  rare  intervals  of  the  sublime  and  aw- 
ful grandeur  which  fascinates  them  into  silence  ; 
never  am  I  lifted  up  apparently  so  close  to  the  Infi- 
nite as  when  amid  such  weird,  uncanny  scenes  as 
these.  We  had  an  hour  of  this  that  night,  fitting  close 
to  our  life  in  the  Highlands  of  Scotland. 

The  first  separation  came  at  Greenock.  Mother, 
Emma,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  King  disembarked  there 
for  Paisley.  The  others  continued  by  boat  to  Glas- 
gow and  enjoyed  the  sail  up  the  Clyde  very  much. 
It  was  Saturday,  a  holiday  for  the  workers.  The 
miles  of  shipyards  were  still,  "  no  sound  of  hammers 
clanking  rivets  up,"  that  fine  sunny  day,  but  as  we 
passed  close  to  them  we  saw  the  iron  frames  of  the 
future  monsters  of  the  deep,  the  Servia,  Alaska,  and 
others,  destined  to  bear  the  palm  for  a  short  time, 
and  then  to  give  place  to  others  still  greater,  till  the 
voyage  between  England  and  America  will  only  be 
a  five-day  pleasure  excursion,  and  there  will  be 
"  two  nations,  but  one  people."  God  speed  the  day  ! 
But  the  old  land  must  come  up  to  Republicanism  ! 
I  make  a  personal  matter  of  that,  Lafayette,  my  boy, 


BRIGHTON   TO   INVERNESS.  271 

as  Mulberry  Sellers  says.  "  No  monarchy  need  ap- 
ply." We  draw  the  line  at  this.  All  men  were 
created  free  and  equal.  Brother  Jonathan  takes  very 
little  "stock"  in  a  people  who  do  not  carry  out 
that  fundamental  principle. 

.We  landed  at  the  Broomielaw,  w^hither  father  and 
mother  and  Tom  and  I  sailed  thirty  odd  years  ago, 
on  the  800-ton  ship  Wiscasset,  and  began  our  seven 
weeks'  voyage  to  the  land  of  promise,  poor  emigrants 
in  quest  of  fortune  ;  but,  mark  you,  not  without 
thoughts  in  the  radical  breasts  of  our  parents  that  it 
was  advisable  to  leave  a  land  which  tolerated  class 
distinctions  for  the  one  government  of  the  people,  by 
the  people,  and  for  the  people,  which  welcomed 
them  to  its  fold  and  insured  for  their  sons  as  far  as 
laws  can  give  it  equality  with  the  highest  and  a  fair 
and  free  field  for  the  exercise  of  their  powers. 

My  father  saw  through  not  only  the  sham  but 
the  injustice  of  rank,  from  king  to  knight,  and  loved 
America  because  she  knows  no  difference  in  her 
sons.  He  was  a  Republican,  aye,  every  inch,  and 
his  sons  glory  in  that  and  follow  where  he  led. 

I  remember  well  that  Aunty  Morrison,  Uncle 
Lauder,  Dod,  and  other  friends,  stood  on  the  quay 
and  waved  farewell.  Had  their  adieu  been  trans- 
lated it  would  have  read  : 

"  Now  may  the  fair  goddess  Fortune 
Fall  deep  in  love  witli  thee, 
Prosperity  be  thy  page." 

Thanks  to  the  generous  Republic  which  stood 
with  open  arms  to  receive  us,  as  she  stands  to-daj^  to 
welcome  the  poor  of  the  world  to  share  with  her 
Qwn    sons  upon    equal  terms  the  glorious  h(^"itage 


272  OUR    COACHING  "^RIP. 

with  which    she    is    endowed — thanks  to    it,    pros- 
perity has  indeed  been  our  page. 

At  St.  Enoch's  Station  Hotel,  Glasgow,  the  final 
disbanding  of  the  party  took  place,  A  delegation  of 
five  members,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  McCargo,  Misses  Johns 
and  French,  and  Mr.  Vandevort,  were  sent  to  in- 
vestigate the  Irish  question  and  report  at  Queens- 
town.  Miss  Eliza  Lauder  returned  to  Dunfermline. 
Mother  and  Miss  Franks  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Kinsf 
were  visiting  the  Lambertons  at  Paisley.  Harry 
and  I  ran  down  to  see  friend  Richards  at  his  basic 
process  at  Eston,  stopping  over  night  at  York  and 
Durham,  however,  to  enjoy  once  more  the  famous 
cathedrals  and  hear  the  exquisite  music. 


Liverpool,  August  13. 
We  sailed  to-day  in  the  Algeria,  the  great  Servia 
having  been  delayed.  Many  were  there  to  see  us 
off,  including  four  or  five  Charioteers.  The  English 
are,  as  Davie  said,  "a  kindly  people,"  a  warm- 
hearted, affectionate  race,  and  as  true  as  steel. 
When  you  once  have  them  you  have  them  forever. 
There  was  far  more  than  the  usual  amount  of  tears 
and  kisses  among  the  ladies.  One  would  have 
thought  our  American  and  English  women  were  not 
cousins,  but  sisters.  The  men  were,  as  befitting 
their  colder  natures,  much  less  demonstrative. 
There  seems  never  to  be  a  final  good-by  on  ship- 
board ;  at  every  ringing  of  the  bell  another  tender 
embrace  and  another  solemn  promise  to  write  soon 
are  given.  But  at  last  all  our  friends  are  upon  the 
tug,  the  huge  vessel  moves,  one  rope  after  another  is 
cast    (rff,   handkerchiefs    wave,   kisses   are    thrown. 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  273 

write  soons  exchanged,  and  the  tug  is  off  in  one  di- 
rection and  we  in  another.  Some  one  broke  the  mo- 
mentary silence  and  brought  the  last  round  of  cheers 
with  the  talismanic  call  :  "  Right,  Perry  !"  That 
touched  all  hearts  with  remembrance  of  the  happy, 
happy  days,  the  happiest  of  our  lives.  So  parted  the 
two  branches  of  the  Gay  Charioteers. 

At  Oueenstown  we  received  the  Irish  contingent, 
who  had  enjoyed  their  week  in  the  Emerald  Isle. 
Veri^  nice  indeed  was  the  report,  but  with  this  quite 
unnecessary  addenda,  "  But,  of  course,  nothing  to 
coaching."  That  goes  without  saying  in  our  ranks. 
The  Algeria  was  a  great  ship  in  her  day  ;  now 
she  is  sold  to  a  freight  line.  But  when  she  does  not 
give  a  good  account  of  herself  in  a  hurricane  do  not 
pin  your  faith  in  any  iron  ship.  You  may  still,*  how- 
ever, believe  that  one  of  steel  like  the  Servia  will 
stand  anything.  She  has  at  least  three  times  the 
strength  of  any  iron  steamer  afloat.  When  she 
does  not  outride  the  tempest,  you  may  give  up  in 
earnest  and  decide,  like  Mrs.  Partington  at  sea,  never 
to  trust  yourself  so  far  out  of  the  reach  of  Provi- 
dcnce  again. 

On  Wednesday  morning,  August  24th,  the  part}^ 
reached  New  York  again,  and  were  finally  disband- 
ed. Two  or  three  of  the  most  miserable  hours  I 
ever  spent  were  those  at  the  St.  Nicholas  Hotel, 
where  mother,  Ben,  and  1  lunched  alone  before  start- 
ing for  Cresson.  Even  Ben  had  to  take  an  earlier 
train  for  Pittsburgh,  and  I  said  to  mother  :  "  All  our 
family  gone  !  I  feel  so  lonely,  so  deserted  ;  not  one 
remains."  But  mother  was  up  to  the  emergenc}'. 
"  Oh,  you  don't  count  me  then  !  You  have  still  one 


2  74  OUR    COACHING    T^TP. 

that  sticks  to  you."     Oh,  yes,  indeed,  sure  of  that, 
old  lady. 

"  The  good  book  tells  of  one 

Who  sticks  closer  than  a  brother  ; 
But  who  will  dare  to  say  there's  one 
Sticks  closer  than  a  mother  !" 

(Original  poetry  for  the  occasion.) 

These  horrid  partings  again  ;  but  whatever  the 
future  has  in  store  for  those  who  made  the  excursion 
recorded  here,  I  think  I  can  safely  say  that  they 
could  not  wish  their  dearest  friend  a  happier  life  than 
that  led  from  June  ist  to  August  24th  by  the  Gay 
Charioteers. 

Those  who  have  mounted  the  coach  become,  as 
it  were,  by  virtue  of  that  act  members  of  an  inner 
circle*;  a  band  of  union  knits  them  closely  together. 
To  a  hundred  dear,  kind  friends  in  the  Beautiful  Land 
we  send  thanks  and  greeting.  Their  kindness  to  us 
can  never  be  forgotten,  for  they  soon  taught  us  to 
feel  that  it  was  not  a  "foreign  land  which  we  had  vis- 
ited after  all,  but  the  dear  old  home  of  our  fathers. 

Forever  and  ever  may  the  parent  land  and  the 
child  land  grow  fonder  and  fonder  of  each  other, 
and  their  people  mingle  more  and  more  till  they  be- 
come as  one  and  the  same.  All  good  educated 
Americans  love  England,  for  they  knov/  that  she 
alone  among  the  nations  has 

"  On  with  toil  of  heart  and  knees  and  hand 
Through  the  long  gorge  to  the  far  light  hath  won 
Her  path  upward  and  prevailed." 

She  it  was  who  pointed  out  to  America  what  to 
plant,  and  how,  and  where.     The  people  of  England 


BRIGHTON    TO   INVERNESS.  275 

should  love  America,  for  she  has  taught  them  in  return 
that  all  the  equal  rights  of  man  they  are  laboring  for 
at  home  are  bearing  goodly  fruit  in  the  freer  atmos- 
phere of  the  West.  May  the  two  peoples  therefore 
grow  in  love  for  each  other,  and  with  this  fond  wish, 
and  many  a  sad  farewell,  the  Gay  Charioteers  disband 
forever  afterward  in  life  to  rally  round  each  other 
in  case  of  need  at  the  mystic  call  of  "  wSkid,  Joe," 
"  Right,  Perry  ;"  and  certain  of  this,  that  whatever 
else  fades  from  the  memory,  the  recollection  of  our 
coaching  trip  from  Brighton  to  Inverness  remains  a 
sacred  possession  forever. 


THE   RECORD. 

BRIGHTON  TO  INVERNESS,  JUNE  17  TO  AUGUST  3,  1881. 


June  17 Brighton  (The  Grand  Hotel). 

."      " Guilford  (The  White  Lion) 42 

"      18  and  19. .  Windsor  (The  Castle) 32 

"      20 Reading  (The  Queen's)  27 

"      21 Oxford  (The  Clarendon) 34 

22 Banbury  (The  White  Lion) 23 

23 Stratford-on- Avon  (The  Red  Horse) 18 

"      24 Coventry  (The  Queen's) 22 

"      25  to  30...  .Wolverhampton  (English  Homes,  best  of  all). .  .  33 

July  I    Lichfield  (The  Swan) 20 

"     2  and  3   . .  .Dovedale  (The  Izaak  Walton) 26 

"     4  Chatsworth  (The  Edensor) 24 

"     5   Buxton  (The  Palace) '. 26 

"     6  Manchester  (The  Queen's) 23 

"     7 Chorley  (Anderton  Hall) 14 

"     8   Preston  (The  Victoria) 16 

"     9  and  10.. .   Lancaster  (The  County)  29 

"     II Kendal  (King's  Arms) 22 

"     12. Grassmere  (Prince  of  Wales) 18 

"     13  Keswick  (The  Keswick) 12 

"     14 Penrith  (The  Crown) 16 

"     15 Carlisle  (The  County  and  Station) 16 

"     16  and  17.  .  Dumfries  (The  Commercial) 32 

"     18   Sanquhar  (The  Queensberry) 28 

"     ig Old  Cumnock  (Dumfries  Arms) 29 

"     20 Douglass  (Douglass  Arms) 28 

"     21  to  26. ..  .Edinburgh  (The  Royal) 44 

"     27  and  28.  .Dunfermline  (The  City  Arms) 16 

"     29 Perth  (The  Royal  George) 32 

"     30  and  31.  .Pitlochrie  (Fisher's  Hotel)  33 

August  I Dai.whinnie  (The  Loch  Ericht) 32 

"       2 Boat  of  Garten  (The  Boat  o'  Garten) 35 

'         3 Inverness  (The  Caledonian) 29 

Total  Miles,  831 


V 


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